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Old 06-20-2009, 09:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tj Advise?

So I am getting ready to do my stretch in the rear of my Tj. I want to move the axle back around 6 inches. At the same time I want to remove the track bar, build a truss and triangulate the upper links.

The plan is:
*use the same frame mounts I am using now.
*cut off the upper coil buckets and move them back farther.
*new driveline.
*box in the tank with thick plate incase it comes in contact with rocks.

As far as the front goes I am going to cut the sliders down to match the tub and begin building tube fenders that will have more clearance for the tires. After the rear stretch is done I plan on stretching the front axle forward an inch or two and making it a three link with one upper and a track bar.

I want to focuse on the (*) stuff first.

I need to know what joints, hiems, bushing, etc... to use on my four links. What type of steel and how thick, etc... Can I cut, butt weld in a pice of steel and sleeve the lowers. And whatever else you can think of. Think budget also.
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Last edited by TayJ; 06-20-2009 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I also did quit a bit of searching to find some answers but alot was still unanswered.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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what are those lower links made from?
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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what are those lower links made from?
Solid stock with threads machined into them. The main section of the links are 1 3/4" stock. At the time I thought it was a good idea but it really have very limited flex but I feel that is due to the stock uppers.
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i like the custom gas tank relocation how long did it take you to make that?
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i like the custom gas tank relocation how long did it take you to make that?
It took about a half hour to move the tank. I removed the tail gate and hammered the seams down for clearance. I had to get new fuel hose to reach but the wiring harness reached with some slack. The tank project is not done though, I will remove the straps and build some tank protection. I had to keep the rear seat for my son.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TayJ View Post
It took about a half hour to move the tank. I removed the tail gate and hammered the seams down for clearance. I had to get new fuel hose to reach but the wiring harness reached with some slack. The tank project is not done though, I will remove the straps and build some tank protection. I had to keep the rear seat for my son.


How do you feel about having a plastic tank full of gas that close to your son?
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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How do you feel about having a plastic tank full of gas that close to your son?
I don't see a problem with it. It maybe plastic but it holds the fuel in. What problems do you see with it?
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I don't see a problem with it. It maybe plastic but it holds the fuel in. What problems do you see with it?
When mounted under the jeep there is a fire wall between you and the tank. If something were to happen and the tank catch fire. What if you layed jeep on its side or rolled.

Is it still street legal?
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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that link system looks sketchy as fuck. But next to the ghetto ass tank relocation, it seems to be right in place. Fix both of those if you're planning on putting your kid in that thing
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The tank is going to be fully inclosed in a metal box. The links work right now, just not well. The jeep has a long ways to come still and on a budget.

New links? I want to make this thinkg better, not focus on the stuff that I know needs changed.

"I need to know what joints, hiems, bushing, etc... to use on my four links. What type of steel and how thick, etc... Can I cut, butt weld in a pice of steel and sleeve the lowers."
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So for safety would a metal box around the tank be better than a fuel cell or visa versa? Behind the seat is the only place I have to put it.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So for safety would a metal box around the tank be better than a fuel cell or visa versa? Behind the seat is the only place I have to put it.
I am in the same boat,

I have two sons that wheel with me, after debating cell, no cell, I just opted to keep the tank under the jeep. Thats just me though.

People wheel with cells in there jeeps all the time, I don't know that I have ever heard of any one getting hurt.

So I think a fuel cell would be ok, If you go trying to box it in your going to have a hard time getting it fit.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It won't be hard to make it fit.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TayJ View Post
The tank is going to be fully inclosed in a metal box. The links work right now, just not well. The jeep has a long ways to come still and on a budget.

New links? I want to make this thinkg better, not focus on the stuff that I know needs changed.

"I need to know what joints, hiems, bushing, etc... to use on my four links. What type of steel and how thick, etc... Can I cut, butt weld in a pice of steel and sleeve the lowers."
As far as links, I would build all new ones.

I am using flex joints, I am really impressed with the size and beefyness of the Trail Gear Crawler joints, There not that bad in cost also.

I built lowers for my rear out of 1.5 dom .250 wall with heims on both ends, Won't do that again. The heims when used on both ends tend to lay on there side and bind or loosen up, not to mention the clanking.

I am building new ones out of 1.75 dom with 3/8 wall and taping the tube for a 1.25 shanked Crawler joint on one end and a Ballistic Joint welded soild to the tube on the other end. All my lowers will be this way. I aiming for 34 - 36 inch lowers.

Here is a mock up picture with a short piece of DOM, Just to show what I am doing

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Old 06-20-2009, 01:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TayJ View Post
It won't be hard to make it fit.
The tank already over hangs the gate.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The tank already over hangs the gate.
And thats why I need to build the box out of heavy steel to protect it. Tie the box into the frame. And stretch the wheel base to help departure angle. It will always over hang.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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And thats why I need to build the box out of heavy steel to protect it. Tie the box into the frame. And stretch the wheel base to help departure angle. It will always over hang.
Sounds like you don't need any help, Good luck.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Sounds like you don't need any help, Good luck.
Wrong! I need all the help I can get. First time doing a crawler project and I don't know whats best, thats why Im here.
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:12 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Wrong! I need all the help I can get. First time doing a crawler project and I don't know whats best, thats why Im here.
Ok,

Like I said earlier

I would use no smaller than 1.75 DOM .250 walled on the lowers and the uppers can be smaller DOM they won't see the abuse.

I would not butt weld them

Get some DOM, Tube Inserts and go to town. If you want to save money, make only one end adjustable.

Check out Ruffstuff they sale, trusses and brackets, thats where I get my stuff, They sale it cheaper than I can make it.
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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My jeep runs, drives and stops. It crawls 4.0 trails. It looks and preforms like shit. Im a broke ass guy supporting a family. I just have big dreams of having a good trail rig. I plan on getting a small credit card to buy metal and shit, I am looking for advise on what to buy. Wife can't know about my credit card plans either! I have a hyd tube bender, welder, notcher and some air tools and the skill to fab the stuff up.
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by burrellsjeep View Post
Ok,

Like I said earlier

I would use no smaller than 1.75 DOM .250 walled on the lowers and the uppers can be smaller DOM they won't see the abuse.

I would not butt weld them

Get some DOM, Tube Inserts and go to town. If you want to save money, make only one end adjustable.

Check out Ruffstuff they sale, trusses and brackets, thats where I get my stuff, They sale it cheaper than I can make it.
Thanks
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TayJ View Post
My jeep runs, drives and stops. It crawls 4.0 trails. It looks and preforms like shit. Im a broke ass guy supporting a family. I just have big dreams of having a good trail rig. I plan on getting a small credit card to buy metal and shit, I am looking for advise on what to buy. Wife can't know about my credit card plans either! I have a hyd tube bender, welder, notcher and some air tools and the skill to fab the stuff up.
Join the crowd
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[URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804177"]Heavily MOGified - Justin's Build
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