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How strong is a stock 8.8 ?

  • Same strenght as a stock dana 44.

    Votes: 38 11.7%
  • A stock Dana 44 is stronger.

    Votes: 21 6.4%
  • the 8.8 is stronger than a dana 44.

    Votes: 244 74.8%
  • As strong as a stock dana 60

    Votes: 23 7.1%

built 8.8's

60K views 143 replies 61 participants last post by  dyn0mitemat 
#1 · (Edited)
I wanna see your built 8.8s, what/how did you beef it up? Tires your running? what are the specs, trussed, shafts, carriers ect ect ect...:smokin:

^^^^^ I added a poll to see what people have to say about the strenght.
 
#5 ·
I TIG welded mine. But I used 1/8" SMAW 55ni nickel rod, so I had to knock off the flux and clean it off really well with a wire wheel. Very easy to do and much cheaper then TIG rod. It worked great.

The technique I used was no preheat, weld only 1" at a time, peen the weld, and let it cool to the touch before the next weld. I also kept it very clean with a wire brush in between welding. This worked very well.

I cut the housing very conservatively to allow for enough ring gear clearance. I also wanted to save as much of the housing as possible for strength. Using the 1/2" plate, I gained over 3/4" ground clearance if I remember correctly, and virtually eliminate the "lip". It has the same ground clearance as a Dana 35, or 1" more then a Dana 44.
 
#4 · (Edited)
8.8 out of a wrecked 98 Explorer. Detroit, 4.56's, Yukon shafts, Yukon gears, welded tubes, custom truss, set up for triangulated 4 link, ruffstuff diff cover. Currently running 33 inch MTR's and going to 35 inch LTB's as soon as I can.



Note: All of the wires are have been tucked up against the tub since these pictures.
 
#8 ·
What kind of lift do you guys have? What kind of pinion angle? How did you work around the rear sway bar making contact with the electro fitting and ears?
I had one built for me. 4.10:1 w/ chromoly axles. I have a 4" RC and 33" tires. Good enuff for now. I'm still in the build process (and probally will be for the next lifetime the way its going) but its mounted under the Jeep.
 
#11 ·
I welded the tubes to the housing with a 220V stick welder and 6011 rods. I completely cut off the electronic speed sensor lips on top and welded a small plate with 6011 rods to seal up the holes so the sway bar would clear. As for the lift, I'm running RE 3.5 inch springs. Pinion angle is something like 13 or 14 degrees I'm guessing, but the rear is also stretched about 7 inches so it's probably not the same as a stock WB Jeep.

Here's some pictures that give you a better look at the tubes welded and the top with the electronic speed sensor cut off from before I went to a 4-link and stretched it.

 
#12 ·
Im running a 4" rc lift and 1"body lift.... soon to be soa though with the stock springs (dana 30 holding me back, looking for a 44...). As of now my 88 is pretty much stock, but im thinking welded tubes, c clip elimnators and an ected, possibly alloy shaft on down the line. I really like the idea of a shave 88.... you need to get a write up going MQ79 and post it up.
 
#13 ·
My 8.8 has a TNT truss and MORE traction bar on it. Still running on stock shafts with heavy abuse (knock on wood). Currently collecting lost pennies on sidewalk to purchase a Super 88.
 
#15 · (Edited)
No pics, but Ill give the specs on mine before I sold it.

Got it out of a 96 Exploder. Ran stock shafts and brakes. Geared at 5:13 with a Detroit. All brackets I fabbed. E-brake hardware came from M.O.R.E. Offroad. Diff cover was a DIY from Blue Torch. Driveshaft flange came from Napa. (33 bucks). Ran 38x12.50 TSL SX's on it and it never broke UNTIL I tried to break it. And I broke a driver shaft. Tubes were welded to diff as well.

I'll be one to highly recomend this axle. I ran is hard and I mean FUCKING HARD and never broke it until I tried to. It's a very good rear axle for the jeep crowd. I wouldnt quite say it's as good as a stock rear 60 (60 gets the cake for FF) but its damn close.

Good luck with your choice and build.
 
#17 ·
The axle shaft strength (tested by Warn Ind.) is as follows:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500
 
#75 ·
There's a bit more to the Super 88 than just the price tag. There is an advantage to running the Dual Pattern drilled 4340 USA made axles that are also designed with heavier duty flanges to stop the bending that is fairly common with the stockers.

The kit also uses the Set 20 bearings which are the same ones used on the Torino Big Bearing 9" housing and heavy duty retainers.

Since the typical rig the 8.8 is swapped into is TJ width, the 8.8 is a bit narrow and the .900 per side that the C-clip eliminators adds typically eliminates the need for wheel adapters, spacers, or new rims with a shallower backspacing.

And of course, the fact that you've eliminated the c-clips is never a bad thing.
 
#22 ·
What's the point of welding the tubes? I would say so they don't spin in the differential housing, but I want to be sure. Yes, I'm a newb, sorry. Isn't there a special way to weld the tubes to the diff, since the diff is cast? Dannyz14 said he used a 220V stick welder with 6011 rod. Well I have both of those, and I'm pretty good with a stick welder, would I be able to weld the tubes to the diff housing?

Sorry if this is considered hi-jacking of the thread, but like I said, newb :emb2: :shaking:
 
#24 ·
You're correct. Welding the tubes keeps them from spinning. It's done as a precaution to make sure this doesn't ever happen. When welding the tubes, make sure you do them about 1 inch at a time. I welded on one side, then made another weld 180* on the other side of the tube and kept doing this until the whole tube was welded, this helps keep from pulling the tubes up or down due to the "warp" that welding can cause. A lot of guys pre and post heat when they weld the tubes. It was about 100 degrees the day I did it and all I did was weld it up and let it cool naturally (no water, compressed air, etc.) and everything went well. I also welded up another 8.8 for a guy with a MIG using the same process and it turned out good as well.
 
#51 ·
Partially wrong. WAY wrong. Yes, it prevents the tube from spinning...but the tubes are not weled to the diff AT ALL from the factory. Get a better look at yours...they are pressed into the diff on the sides and then a giant ring clamps the diff and presses 3 pins down on the tubes with about 20 tons of force. It smashes the pins so they can give the apperance that there welded, but they are not. Which is why its so critical to weld the diff to the tubes.
 
#31 ·
No Pre heat it first and use a 903 I think or 908 rod and you want to heat the weld again. And have some clean sand to cover it to let it cool down very slowly. Ask what rod at a welding supply store. you ant to do it right getting cast that hot can make it very brittle and shatter. one inch at a time 180 out but you can do both tubes flip and do both again heat and dump sand or a thick welding blanket to let it cool down slowly.

I got my advice from a certified welder and he has only been doing it for 35 plus years.
This guy is know as "Dan the man"
 
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