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Old 08-31-2009, 07:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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92 yj cage build

i am building this cage out of 1 3/4 .120 dom tube tell my what you guys think







if you think i should add a tube sum place gust let me knowi have not start the front
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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update on the cage work all most done a few more tube that need to be add



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Old 09-07-2009, 08:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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get the front done and we'll help you out. so far so good alittle overkill on the back but better safe than sorry also if you can make some through body to the frame anchors. in a good roll if it's only mounted to the body good chance of it just ripping out.
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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update on the cage work all most done a few more tube that need to be add



I agree it looks like you went a little overboard in the head area in the rear part of the cage. Its good that you put some triangulation on the elbows, but instead of transfering the forces to the floor , you are transfering them to the midway point on the main hoop instead. You need to add more triangulation to get that to the floor. Id add a piece of DOM inbetween the A and B pillars to tie those together and a diagonal spreader behind the seats. Other then that, just don't go crazy with the tubing about the head area and it looks good.

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Old 09-07-2009, 10:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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it is going to go to the frame i have not made the mounts yet that is still in the work the front i have 2 more tube to do they will go to piller A to B gust like the back thanks for all the help
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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more work done all most reddy to start paint

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Old 09-08-2009, 06:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks Good Man!!
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You should put a door bar from where the rear diagnoals hit the B pillar to the foot of the A pillar...but that's just me
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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your cage would be a lot stronger if you had more triangulation. put an X in the B pillar, and gusset the A pillar in both directions.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I agree on the triangulation ^. The front of the cage looks identical to mine though. Are you planning a bracket from cage to top of windshield?
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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the seats are in the way to do a x on the b piller and no i am not planning to put a bracket from cage to top of windshield

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Old 09-10-2009, 07:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i hate to say it man, but without an X or at the very least, a / in the B pillar, and gusseting on every intersection, you cage might actually be worse than stock. i say this because 1, it is providing a false sense of security, and 2, you're adding a ton of weight up high.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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high lift jack mount

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Old 09-12-2009, 05:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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When you roll, especially with such little triangulation, one of those bolts gets torqued and snaps, your high-lift jack will decapitate everyone in the Jeep (except you.) Then your friends will have to clean up your familys brain juice. You should be a better friend.

Heavy/sharp objects should be mounted LOW or OUTSIDE of the Jeep.
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't want to sound like I'm hopping on the bandwagon. But are you building a roll cage or a cargo rack?

Even though good cages are often well thought out and put together they are actually quite simple to design. You can pretty much take anybody who has taken a class on structural physics/forces and they can build a good roll cage because the basic principals are all the same. You want to transfer the forces of a roll over to the feet of the cage where it should tie into the frame and have it remain structurally intact in the process using triangulation.

Your particular cage has almost no triangulation, lots of 90* spreaders transfering forces to un-supported lengths of tube. The only good thing it has going for it is it has a front hoop, that is loosely tied in. In a violent rollover your cage would most likely save you one time and it would be destroyed in the process, it is very weak. And your Hi-lift mount in my opinion is down right dangerous. Mount it behind the seats near the floor. If you are using 5 point harnesses and taking out the standard seat belts you can lay it right down between the two feet of the roll bar and weld a couple studs in and butterfly nuts to hold it. As opposed to flying out and killing somebody in a roll over. I have a pic of the way I mounted mine, let me see if I can find it. **Found the Hi-lift mount thread, lots of good ideas here including mine that are much safer then yours. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...highlight=lift **

If I were in your position I would cut out everything except the front hoop and front hoop spreaders and start over. Here is an example of what I would do. Keep in mind you will have to combine the two pics to fully complete the cage because if I drew it all on one pic it would look like a monkey gym.





It's your cage you can do what you want. If you just want it to look cool and have the average joe jeeper get wet over the fact that you have what looks to be a full roll cage then have at. You won't fool anybody that actually knows what they are doing or be any safer however.

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Old 09-12-2009, 08:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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As others have said, you need some triangulation to keep it from folding up in a roll.

This isn't a perfect example, I'll be the first to admit that I was going for a look as well as strength - but may give you some ideas.
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i know i should do the x in the b piller but my head will hit the x the one bar that i do have is gust to stop the tire hiting you i cant fit the high lift jack in the b piller i would never b able to get it out the bar at the c i would not be able to get the spare tire out so that is why i did not do the bar the the b piller is for my harnesses and i cant lower it would not be at the right spot that i did not want to over do it bc this is my dd i was going more sumthing that is stronger then the stock cage what i think it is a lot stonger now

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Old 09-13-2009, 06:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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How is your head gonna hit the X on the B-pillar, you can keep the bar for your harnesses, just run an X.

Are you running low backed seats? I'm 6'3" and I ran a windjammer and recaro reclining seats and I never had a problem in a YJ.

You know you can stand the spare tire up behind the drivers seat (to keep your view clear and open) and you can fit a 37" tire in there right?

And if you are running 5 point harnesses you can take out the stock seat belts and mount that jack right to the floor plates on the B-pillar. The only reason mine was mounted higher up is because I was using stock seat belts and couldn't get it lower.

It's your rig man, do what you want. All your problems aren't really problems, especially if you want a strong cage. I garantee you are gonna see that thing shaking and vibrating too when you drive it down the road the way its set up. I'm not bashing it, just offering my opinion and a few solutions worth considering. I always find it odd however when somebody posts their work and "tell me what you think" then then never end up taking any good advice. At least do the gussets, they add quite a bit of strength and don't take long to make.
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasFury View Post
When you roll, especially with such little triangulation, one of those bolts gets torqued and snaps, your high-lift jack will decapitate everyone in the Jeep (except you.) Then your friends will have to clean up your familys brain juice. You should be a better friend.

Heavy/sharp objects should be mounted LOW or OUTSIDE of the Jeep.
yep. I would take the rear angle bar that's tied into the b pillar and take it fro the b pillar to the bottom of the c pillar. That makes it so the force is transfered back and not twords the drivers compartment. You might get pinched on a nasty roll. Just my thoughts though.
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