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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Member # 157885
Posts: 16
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WJ Inner C's on XJ/ZJ dana 30
I have acquired a dana 30 that I would like to run under the front of my ZJ. The only problem is that the passenger side lower ball joint, or perhaps the lower part of the passenger side inner C seems to have suffered a severe failure. The lower ball joint is not a firm fit into the press fit slot. The joint travels up and down, and even side to side some extent when turning. From this point, I see my only solution to be to weld a new passenger side inner C. (Unless someone can figure a way to remedy this.) Since I'm planning on doing a WJ knuckle swap in the near future, why not just weld on the whole inner C so that way I don't have to worry about swapping lower ball joints and removing and reattaching the knuckle. At this same time I could compensate for my castor by rotating the Cs more upright. Question is, is it possible to transplant inner cs from WJ dana 30's to that of a ZJ/XJ dana 30? Hoping someone can shed some light onto the axle tube O.D.s if they have them.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4375
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 3,457
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Quote:
Dana 30's in both high and low pinion are plentiful and cheap and not worth repairing. That even includes one with gears already set up. By the time you get through dicking around swapping that inner C and all the associated bullshit that goes with it, you can pick up enough beer cans and recycle them to get enough money to pay for a gear set up. There's no advantage to the WJ inner C. It's the same inner C that's on the TJ 30, XJ 30 and ZJ 30 with only the lower balljoint having a different taper for the WJ knuckle.
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I am an official member of the "I saw Dave Cole get run over by a rock buggy" club. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4375
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 3,457
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The tapers are not the same, make your choice. As far as cost goes, I just looked on Rock Auto's website and they seem about the same price as any other, so I don't know where the "expensive" part comes from.
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I am an official member of the "I saw Dave Cole get run over by a rock buggy" club. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 39729
Location: The Palouse
Posts: 99
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Just to clarify, it sounds like the correct way to do the WJ knuckle swap on an XJ 30 is to use WJ lower ball joints, but the upper ball joints can be TJ/XJ. If this is correct, it just may be the deciding cost factor for me to not do the WJ swap.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4375
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 3,457
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Quote:
If you look up the upper balljoints for a WJ, there will be several offerings from many brands. Next to each one is a part number. If you click on the part number, it brings up a Buyer's Guide that gives you all the other applications for that part number. In this case, the WJ upper front balljoint is listed as fitting Wranglers from 87 (IIRC)-06 and a plethora of Cherokee and Grand Cherokee apps. Try it, it's a great resource for parts searching.
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I am an official member of the "I saw Dave Cole get run over by a rock buggy" club. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116340
Posts: 565
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Quote:
Thanks, ive been cross referencing stuff on autozone and quadratec and theres is garbage some times. Now ill finally find out if i can steal the cat off of a 98xj to put in my dying 00tj |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 39729
Location: The Palouse
Posts: 99
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Quote:
To the OP, sorry for the hijack. I'll start my own thread at the appropriate time. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4375
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 3,457
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If you are aware, you could have used it to answer the question you asked and saved me the trouble of pointing it out for you.
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I am an official member of the "I saw Dave Cole get run over by a rock buggy" club. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 39729
Location: The Palouse
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Just because the part numbers are different, and the applications are different, does not mean that the parts are not interchangeable. In this case, the lower ball joint taper is apparently different, so the parts are not directly interchangeable. However, a lot of WJ knuckle swaps have been done using the TJ/XJ lower ball joints. Is this the correct way to do the swap? Apparently not, but, what negative consequences have happened by using the "incorrect" ball joints? Are the knuckles being destroyed at the lower ball joint taper? Does the taper in the cast knuckle get deformed to match the taper of the TJ/XJ ball joint? Does the difference in ball joint tapers cause the axle shafts to not be centered in the axle tubes? |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4375
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 3,457
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Quote:
That said, if anybody said they were going to try and use 2" per foot tapered TRE's in their steeing that has 1.5" per foot holes, what would you tell them? The only reason folks get by with it, myself included at one point in time, is the weight of the vehicle is holding it together. Any other application and it would pretty much not be a great idea. I know folks like you are going to say that it's been done incorrectly and no one died, so why bother doing it right? Which is why I said to make your own choices. You know the tapers are different. You know the pricing is similar. You are usually replacing balljoints for a knuckle swap. You can do it right, or you can ghetto it. Make your choice.
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I am an official member of the "I saw Dave Cole get run over by a rock buggy" club. Last edited by mrblaine; 09-04-2010 at 06:43 AM. |
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