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Old 10-03-2010, 10:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How much to narrow my dana 44?

I have a chevy dana 44 housing I want to narrow around 4 inches total for my CJ. I have not decided to use the stock spring locations or to outboard them, so I can go either way. Should I cut 4 inches off the long side or something else? thanks
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should cut the 4" out of the long side, the cast perch in the diff says so. Or you could do 2" on each side but thats just a waste of time and money if you ask me.
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should cut the 4" out of the long side, the cast perch in the diff says so. Or you could do 2" on each side but thats just a waste of time and money if you ask me.
Ok, that's what I was thinking. I didn't know if I would run into any oil pan clearance issues by not out-boarding the springs. 4 inches off the long side would give me a 27.5 perch width which matches a CJ frame. I plan to daily drive this rig though so would it be top heavy around turns with the CJ perch width?

Also on my driver's side inner C it has an eccentric nut for the upper ball joint and the passenger side has the normal spanner nut. Is this factory? Should I get a inner c with a spanner nut to put on the tube when I narrow it?
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is what I have on the driver's side, shouldn't this be a spanner nut?

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Old 10-03-2010, 06:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I cleaned the rust out of the inner c and there is a thin spanner nut in there, the driver's side must have had a camber issue. Hopefully I won't need to put one of the camber kits back in it when I get the front end together.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I suggest keeping the axle shaft a stock length, from another application.
It makes finding and axle easier, and some times cheaper.


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Old 10-04-2010, 02:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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AS stated above:

I believe if you cut 4" off of a Chevy full width 44, you can then run a stock long side inner Waggy 44 axle shaft.

Cost = pretty darn cheap.

Just grind on the weld to the inner c and hit it with a hammer until you see the hair line crack start. You can reset the caster/camber off of the other side when you cut the tube. I used a chop saw.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I suggest keeping the axle shaft a stock length, from another application.
It makes finding and axle easier, and some times cheaper.


where did you get this sheet? I would like to print out a copy thats clear
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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where did you get this sheet? I would like to print out a copy thats clear
From his website!

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Old 10-04-2010, 08:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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From his website!

Tim




Tim is right, I took the time to pull info from books, and pdf's.
I've the excel copy, but only share the picture. If you don't like it, make your own...
Then again, the picture is clear, it's the forum software that messes it up.
FYI, this is the small list, with just 297 sized u-joints for Dana 44's.
Save this Link -> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Spicer/graph/Dana44_Front_Axle_shafts_Mr.N_shortside_.GIF
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Last edited by Mr.N; 10-04-2010 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Tim is right, I took the time to pull info from books, and pdf's.
I've the excel copy, but only share the picture. If you don't like it, make your own...
Then again, the picture is clear, it's the forum software that messes it up.
FYI, this is the small list, with just 297 sized u-joints for Dana 44's.
Save this Link -> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Spicer/graph/Dana44_Front_Axle_shafts_Mr.N_shortside_.GIF
Thanks, saved it!
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It looks like a driver side drop waggy 44 passenger innner axle is what I need. It is exactly 4 inches shorter than my factory long side axle.

Anyone have any opinion on high steer arms? I was planning on runnig a tie rod off the knuckles in the factory location and the drag link using TREs to a high steer arm on the passenger side. My steering box is off a J20, will GM 1 ton tie rod ends work with its taper?
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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How much to narrow my dana 44?
NOT at all. Keep the width, if you wheel you will NOT regret it. If your not changing the rear axle get wheel spacers. Seriously!

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Old 10-05-2010, 12:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Aiming for this look, I need to be able to drive it every day.

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Old 10-05-2010, 03:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I need to be able to drive it every day.
They make wide flares... and rims with a lot of off set...
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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They make wide flares... and rims with a lot of off set...
Well ...

No turning back now.

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Old 10-05-2010, 03:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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looks good, just narrowed my 44.....it's easy to do, just take your time and read pirate
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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looks good, just narrowed my 44.....it's easy to do, just take your time and read pirate
It would have been a real bitch to remove the weld without the plasma cutter. Now I'm off to sears to buy an angle finder so I can get the inner c on correctly.

Should I throw the inner c in the oven for a while before I try to put it on?
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:12 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I put mine in the oven before installing. It definitely helps but you still gotta move fast.

I cut right through my weld and the tube instead of trying to grind the weld and remove the inner c. It was much easier then to just remove the small piece of tube that remained in the 'c'.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
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the digital angle finder from harbor freight worked good for me...check it out if you didn't buy one from sears yet
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I put the inner c on using a sears angle finder and a level, the caster is dead on. I didn't heat the inner c, it went right on with some taps from a hammer. I made the other side level and then matched it on the driver's side, it should be really close.

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Old 10-08-2010, 08:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Inner C is welded on.

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