Pirate 4x4 banner

U-bolt flip kit installed.

41K views 78 replies 28 participants last post by  _Stucky  
#1 ·
well the damn 1/2 inch U-bolts kept streatching, causing the rear end to move when I shifted gears I kept torqueing and torqueing the damn things.
I said **** it! One of the guys at work got me two pieces of steel and I made
U-bolt saddles I bought New plates heavy 3/8's U-bolt plates. and new perches because the center pin holes were egged shaped. I went with 9/16
U-bolts.

Image


Image


Image


I got $100 in parts and used the $300 I saved from buying a ready made kit to buy a drill press.
Image
 
#2 ·
The problem is most likely the fact that you have a flat plate on top of a round axle tube. If you are gonna run your u-bolts flipped like that, weld another perch on top of the axle for the u-bolt plate to sit on.
Travis..
 
#4 · (Edited)
The Problem is most likely you can't READ.:flipoff2: I said the Half inch U-bolts were streatching.
ALSO I installed a U-bolt Flip kit.
Image


That is WHY I had to keep torqueing them. See the oil from the tube cracking? The cracks were caused by the 1/2 u-bolts STRETCHING and allowing my rear differential to slide around. Breaking the center pinsI went to 9/16 u-bolts and put the threaded ends out of harms way by flipping them.
In the end I blame my dumbass for not posting the "before" picture.:laughing:
Seriously though allot of U-bolts are being made out of country, and are not made to the standards of ASE. Even some of the "kit" U-bolts MADE for Jeeps
are not to standard. I got this kit from a vender, not q-tech they just have a nice picture of the kit for the front. As the front is not so easy to flip with a D-30.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/26038_06.htm

Image

One of the U-bolts had it's threads removed by the nut as I was torqueing it to recommended spec. So now I buy only U-bolts from Semi truck stores because I know they are to ASE standard.

Example of why I flipped them.
Image


To crashnzuk good eye BUT as it was getting dark I did not take a picture of the flat plates on top with the 1/2 round stock welded to them front and rear to keep the axle tube from sliding. I had to have them in place BEFORE welding them on, because I am so sick of repairing the same damn thing.
JaysinDesignz: I have enough clearance for my needs. That was not the reason I did the flip. I did it so I would not have a rock remove my U-bolts leaving me broke down on the trail.:D

I do allot of searching before i do anything this is not my original idea but i feel it is a good one. This is one of the many links I read before doing this.
http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tech_pyj-su.htm
 
#5 ·
Are you certain its the u-bolt stretching and not your spring pack compressing or nutz backing off? I hear ya on the china made crap. I'm tired of dealing with the poor quality but the quality american stuff is hard to get anymore.

if your setup fails again you might try an anti-wrap perch. They sell some at Ruffstuff for something like $35 a set. I think the leveraged force on your u-bolts from those itty-bitty stock pad perches may decrease if you spread the force out through a longer/wider surface area.
 
#6 ·
#1 the flip kit is used when you go spring OVER axle. You are never going to get the torque set on top on an axle tube with no flat surface for the plate to marry against.

#2 the U-bolts done the correct way & you bending bolts. You need to cut off ALL the bolts right up against the nuts. Then you wont have that problem.
 
#10 ·
Just go to pick and Pull and look at the 1/2 ton chevy trucks, they come from the factory spring under with the u-bolts mounted the same way with the "nuts" on top of the tube.

They have a built-in curved section that nests the axle tube and provides flat spots for the u-bolt nuts to mount to...

Did this on my YJ, no more U-bolt ends dragging on the rocks & they were only $1.50 each at PNP.:D
 
#11 ·
No No No! you see I did not go buy Dynatrac's High-Clearance U-Bolt kit,
Or one of the others out there.

Then it would be cool. Since I fabricated the exact same thing, then its crap.:shaking:

http://www.dynatrac.com/products_ubolt.html

Image


Oh the springs are rubicon express 4.5 extreme duty. they have been just fine for 4 years. The $400 would be if I bought them for front and rear.
 
#19 ·
Image


This pic gives me the idea there is no support for the plate...B
I saw where you said you are adding round stock to the bottom of the plate, but a perch would work better. It would support your u-bolt plate out in between the bolts, this would eliminate (or lessen) the flex in your plate so you can get some clamp load. Even with the round stock I think your plate is gonna flex too much.
Travis..
exactly what everyone heres been talking about. a perch would be the best option but round stock would work if you must fab everything yourself to make yourself happy. like said you need to limit how much deflection of the u bolt plate you will get when its torqued down and when the spring compresses/decompresses. If not it will just keep on loosening and stretching the u-bolts like the problem you were had in the first place. But thought all ASE mechanics knew that. I gess you must have went to Wyotech! :shaking:
 
#18 ·
I saw where you said you are adding round stock to the bottom of the plate, but a perch would work better. It would support your u-bolt plate out in between the bolts, this would eliminate (or lessen) the flex in your plate so you can get some clamp load. Even with the round stock I think your plate is gonna flex too much.
Travis..
 
#23 ·
adding round may work fine.

I did the exact same mod as the op, difference was that i used 2.5 box tubing, cut in the radius of axle tube, and welded to top of axle tube, then placed plate on top.

cheap works, if done correctly, I had all the metal laying around the garage from other projects, and the ubolts were like 20 bux or something.

to the OP, do you have a finished pic of said modification?

my thoughts are that with round stock welded to the top plate you would also want to weld said round stock to the axle tube. wedged round stock and tightened with bolts would still want to rotate with spring flex and be less secure than an additional perch style flat spot on top of the axle.
 
#25 ·
I had the dynatrac flip kit upfront and it worked perfect. In the back I had a kit similar to CronusTRD set-up. In the rear I kept stetching the bolts and tearing the plate. I had a ton of axle wrap too. 4.6 stroker.. Finally I just linked my jeep and got rid of leafs all together.
 
#26 ·
I'll get a picture of it finished sometime this week. I've been busy Deer hunting. Also I'm working 6 days this week and busy as hell this week-end.

I do not think the American made 9/16ths U-bolts will have the same problems as the 1/2inch shit U-bolts.

Only time will tell but on checking the torque so far nothing has changed.
 
#29 ·
yup just need it to help keep the axle centered, help cut down on the ubolt plate flexing due to spring rap, and will allow you to properly torque the ubolts. the half round stock just cradle the axle in position.
 
#36 ·
I know your already done and probably not going to change it now but for the sake of discussion, as stated earlier why not use a half ton Chevy plate? they are all over the junkyards and super cheap.

I believe your plate and round stock idea works but I dont see any disadvantage of having it grab more of the axle tube.

Image


Image


Image


And it fits perfectly with 9/16th ubolts on a 8.8:smokin:
 
#40 · (Edited)
So you know how to change an evaporator coil. You win a cookie for the day! It doesn't mean that your ubolt flip is worth a shit or that it's safe.

I know lots of over-glorified parts changers that call themselves "mechanics". Most couldn't diagnose their way out of a wet paper bag, let alone fabricate anything safe. :flipoff2:

In other words, your picture of a Cherokee with the dash torn out means diddly squat.
 
#42 ·
x 52 & a kick in the Nukin Futz:flipoff2:

Seriously, this guy would have been picked last & so many times I would call GAME CLOSED as he came walking up. :lmao:

Cum on Poptart let it rest. You should have taken the advice of the gazillion peps who tried to help you.
 
#45 · (Edited)
I really don't see what all the fuss is about. He apparently made his the same way that the Dynatrac kits are made... If he's using 1/2 inch plate, supporting it with round stock on either side of the tube, and thicker u-bolts, bending/stretching should not be a problem.

I have the Dynatrac kit on my D44 rear (with first a Ramjet 350 and 35s, now a 6-liter and 35s) and it's been fine for about 8 years now.

Image



I thought this was supposed to be flame-free non-hardcore?:smokin:
Jake
 
#46 ·
I really don't see what all the fuss is about. He apparently made his the same way that the Dynatrac kits are made... If he's using 1/2 inch plate and thicker u-bolts, bending/stretching should not be a problem.

I have this kit on my D44 rear and it's been fine for about 8 years now.


I thought this was supposed to be flame-free non-hardcore?:smokin:
Jake
yeah, your missing the point in this useless post. Flat plate on round bar not staying tight was the issue. Not what you needed to be under that round plate....:shaking: I seriously would have rather wasted these brain cells on Ecstasy with a super hot chick that only want me for my fake bank account & fake $200K car in valet. Down @ the Hard Rock Hotel over this crap. :lmao: