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Old 03-22-2011, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My cheep xj build

This is my first "build" so bear with me and this is primarily so that I can document my progress/issues with it.

I originally bought the jeep almost three years ago. At the time I had planned on building it into a Jeepspeed, however after a deployment, moving to another state, and now with two kids, plans have changed. I only paid $150 for it, and it showed. I start by pulling out the dash, removing the windshield with a shovel and sledge hammer, and pulling some of the glass and most of the trim inside. It pretty much sat like that until about a week ago, when I drug it from OK down to TX. After nearly three years, I started working on it again last night with a new plan. The carpet is coming out and being replace with herculiner, or something similar. Seats will eventually be getting replaced with something nicer, but will have some Wallmart special covers until then. At this point the only money being put into it will be to get it back on the road and be a functional DD. Enough talking for now. Time for pix.

Edit - With school, military, job, and family I simply did not have time to do the tons and v8 swap like I wanted to. For the current build jump to here.


Parts and to-do list

Final dash install
engine bay wiring
relocate oil filter
interior/window seals
bumpstops/misc front end
d30 install kit
Brake pedal assembly
E-brake cables




Jeep 150
Title fiasco 135 (not done yet)
Towing 190
Towing again, two blocks, FAWK U-HAUL! 60
AMC V8 200
T18 74
T150 Bell Housing 90
NP 205 $187
Engine rebuild parts from Summit (gasket kit, rings, main/connecting rod bearings, timing set, cam/lifters, cap/rotor bug) $510 (more to come)
Headers $201
Valve Springs $66
Water pump, plugs, wires $46 (Autozone discount points)
D44 housing 60
Pistons 290
Machine work 561
Pilot Bushing (Novak) 24
Parts (Rockauto) 252
Run to Lowes for some grade 8 bolts $40
Another set of headers $110
D44 Spindles $55
60s f/r $400

Steel for crossmember 32
DOM Bushings (Ruffstuff) 37
Control arms and track bar $350
Ford 8.8 $165
Ruffstuff 8.8 swap kit $127
Wheels - $360
New bumpstops, coil spring isolator, 2" bump extension, and front brake lines - $221
Spicer 1310 adapter, RE twin tube shocks - $256
Transmission/Motor mounts - $32
RE 4.5 in lift coils - $89
Radiator - $205
Cap/rotor, rad hoses, plugs/wires, coolant tank, vacuum hoses, window seals, belt, t-stat - $182
Transmission shift cable/transmission neutral safety cable - 93
Transmission and T case (aw4/np231) - 100
Junk yard trip #1 - Transmission computer, shifter lever for transmission, battery tray - $20
Used exhaust - $20
RE 3.5" springs and shackles - $200
Battery/break pads/water neck gasket - $143
AA SYE and new DS -$499
Shroud - $51
Fan - $10
Fittings and hose from Summit for trans - $90
K&N filter, battery, misc items - $250
Fuel fill hoses - $30
New gas tank, rtv, and thread locker - $124
Fuel pump/sending unit - $100
Brake line, more plug wires, bolts, misc supplies - $103
Shift cable - $77
Misc parts store runs - $150
Junkyard trip - $10
Windshield - $162
D30 gears/carrier - $200
Misc parts - $100
Exhaust - 113



Sold:
NP231 $120
Engine/trans $40
D35 $100
AMC 360 $1000
RE Coils $80
NP205 $100
AMC 360 headers $100
2 stock rubi MTs - $100

Total to date $6852

Goal is $5000


First time it's been moved since being bought.


Getting ready to load it onto the U-Haul trailer.


Cramed into my "2 car" garage, that won't even fit my truck.




First progress in three years.





I'm going to work on pulling out the rest of the interior tonight and cleaning up the inside, along with the dash and trim pieces, and work on reassembling the interior. After we move into our new house next month the motor will be getting pulled. As of right now it's frozen, so it's fate is up in the air. More pix to follow as I make more progress.
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The Cheep Jeep Build
1989 XJ on 35s Work in Progress

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Old 03-22-2011, 08:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Got a bit more work done tonight.

Nasty ass stockers.


And wallyworld to the rescue.


Along with the steering wheel. Pretty sure there used to be tape wrapped around it, or maybe it's just from being so old. Super sticky.


Finished removing the rest of the carpet from the driver's side.


So the front end looks pretty good as far as rust goes, nothing some chemicals can't take care of. But there's some cancer under the back seat.




My wife was freaking out when I started punching holes in it. Gonna have to see if I can find a weld in patch piece, or some thin sheet metal to patch it up. Pretty small spot so it's not at the top of my todo list at this point. I'm hoping that by the end of this weekend, I'll have the interior completly cleaned out and the dash and trim pieces put back in.
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Some more updates.

Got the carpet torn out of the back end.


And of course some more rust, right next to the fuel filler!


BUT, I got the front seats re-mounted until it's time to redo the interior.


Also got started on the dash


Front end as well


And passenger rear wheel well.


All in all I'm pretty happy. A Jeep for 150 bucks and only three holes need to be patched.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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A little more progress. Pulled the dash back out, cleaned up a bit more, and put it back in, along with the defrost duct work behind it. So far the biggest pain in the ass I can see is trying to figure out which screws and bolts to use for which piece. I've been digging through what I have, but I'm sure I'll be making quite a few runs to Lowe's for replacements. I'm also missing a few of those crappy little stamped nuts that slide over the holes in the sheet metal. Anyway, a couple more pix. Sorry for the crappy lighting. My flash decided to not work tonight for some reason.

Test fitting the center console.


Pic of the crappy Peugeot trans. Most likely going to be swapping with an ax-15, unless somebody can give me reason not to. From my understanding, the ax-15s are much more desirable. Pretty sure the tube laying on top is the vent tube, it was just laying across the trans.


Anybody know what is supposed to go into this hole?
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Not much to update on tonight. Spent a little time finishing up the front trim, put the cowl back on, finished removing the remaining glass from the old windshield, and messed with the dash a bit more. I also realized today that I still have the guages and a few other pieces back up in OK. Gonna have to remember to grab those when I go back up in a couple of weeks. I'm starting to do some research on an ax swap also. Hopefully I can start collecting parts. Wish I could do more right now, but we're supposed to close on our house at the end of next week. I plan on having the motor/trans/transfer pulled out before the end of apr, and start rebuilding the motor. Hopefully I'll be putting it back in with an ax attached to it. Time will tell.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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BTW, does anybody know how much it costs to have steelies fixed? Trying to get this thing back on the road for under 2k and looking to save money where I can. I don't have any problems running the stock wheels for now, but one has a good dent in the bead. Wondering if it's just cheaper to have it fixed, or get a new one.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'd search craigslist for someone's take offs. Most stock rims can be had for cheap or free. Where in tx are you?
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm just north of Austin. I think that's the only thing I haven't searched for on CL. Also need to track down some road leagal used tires (read: enough tread to pass inspection).
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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LOOKING GOOD BRO!... Cant wait to help you out on it here in a few weeks when I come down!
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well hurry up and get ur ass down here bitch. Got some more work done tonight. It feels like every time I work on it, I spend two hours and get very little done. Anyway, more pix.

Hood is now on and attached to the hinges, although it'll be coming right back off in a couple of weeks. But it does feel like I'm making progress.


Also threw in the center console to see how much room I'll have once it's all put back together. There's noting actually holding it in right now, as I'll be pulling it right back out to hurculine the inside.




I'm also surprised to feel just how comfortable the stock seats are.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A bit more progress tonight. I've got about half the dash in at this point, with some parts still up in OK, so I'm holding off for a few weeks. I'm also waiting to put all the trim pieces back in until I line the interior. I was thinking of going with Herculiner, but I've heard that it may not be the best option. Does anybody have recommendations? Anyway, I started to work under the hood tonight. Pix:

My new hood prop


Parts!!!


Started pulling the intake, exhaust, power steering, brake reservoir, etc.




Also pulled the spark plugs. I tried to get pix, but my camera is starting to suck. Doesn't like macro shots apparently. Anyway...


Sprayed some of this in the spark plug holes, hoping to free up the pistons. It's a long shot but I'll let it sit in there for a week or so until I can pull the head.


Shitty pic of the oil dip stick. No water.


I'm hoping to have this motor rebuilt and back in the jeep in about four weeks. Does anybody know who sells a rebuild kit for the 4.0? I haven't found a complete kit yet.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Why not buy another stock xi that's in great condition for 500 bucks? To me all that work seems like a waste of time, and money to build a stock jeep. Buy a new one or swap in a motor and granny from a different jeep for cheaper than the cost of a motor rebuild. IMO ur wasting time and money but that's just me
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If I had the space and time for another vehicle I would. It's just a project at this point. I plan on having it driveable in about 4 weeks. It would be sooner if I didn't have to go to OK next month. Once it's back on the road I'll start building it. Still thinking of which direction I want to go with this.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Been thinking a lot about what I want to do with the Jeep. I'm thinking that by end of summer/early fall, I'd like to be running on 35s with a 44/8.8 (or 9") combanation.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have no idea if this really works or not, some on here may know, but since you are trying the PB blaster...an old timer (kind of like a distant uncle of mine) that always found old dead vehicles for free or very little money, once told me that when he had one with the engine locked up, that he would drain the oil, fill it up with diesel fuel, let it sit for about a week, and it would no longer be locked up. Of course, he would drain out the diesel and put oil in it before trying to crank it, but he claimed that it worked almost every time.
Once again, I have no idea if it really worked, have never had a need to, so never tried it myself, just thought I would pass on the story from an old timer.

Jeep is looking good for $150.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the bit of advice. I'll have to try it sometime. Right now the only reason it isn't already pulled and torn apart is because were still in our rent house. We were supposed to close on our new house tomorrow, but of course the closing date got pushed back another week. Fawking mortgage company. Oh well. I know if I pull the motor it'd be another huge mess that I'd be stuck cleaning up. If I get very lucky, I'll be able to pull it and take it to a machine shop before I have to leave town next Friday. For April I'll be rebuilding the motor and putting it all back together hoping to have it on the road early May, then I can start collecting parts.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Wanting to know the condition of the motor is starting to get the best of me. A good portion of the coolant is already gone, so I'm thinking of throwing some rags or drysweep under it and pulling the head tonight. If the motor's fawked, that's going to change things considerably. Bad motor, shitty trans, and transfer case with wrong (21sp) input gear is a recipe for a v8 I'm thinking.
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Fawk!

Well fawk!! This is not what I was hoping to see







Wasn't expecting to see the connecting rod that soon. The Jeep is officially put on hold until we close on the house next week. It's become storage for other shit in the garage. In the mean time I need to research the emission laws regarding motor swaps here in TX. So far from my understanding, you can put in a newer motor, but of the same type. Hopefully that proves to be wrong, as I'd really like to throw a V8 in. On the other hand, I'm starting to wonder if I can part it out/sell it and start fresh with an XJ in better shape.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Checked out the Texas Administrative Code. Doesn't mention anything about having engines other than what was originally in the vehicle.

Gonna do some more checking with the inspection station next week.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFY Racing View Post
Well fawk!! This is not what I was hoping to see
Wasn't expecting to see the connecting rod that soon. The Jeep is officially put on hold until we close on the house next week. It's become storage for other shit in the garage. In the mean time I need to research the emission laws regarding motor swaps here in TX. So far from my understanding, you can put in a newer motor, but of the same type. Hopefully that proves to be wrong, as I'd really like to throw a V8 in. On the other hand, I'm starting to wonder if I can part it out/sell it and start fresh with an XJ in better shape.
If it's past a certain age they don't care what you put in it. Hell, a guy in my club has a street legal tj with full hydro and a v10. His son has a blown 350 in his back halved street legal tj. I don't think motor swaps matter as long as it sniffs clean. And again if it's 25 or older, no sniff test. And thats if you live in an emissions county. I'd do the swap and just not say anything, go to the shitty side of town and request an inspection sticker and you should be fine.


Just noticed in your sig it's an 89. I'd find out if your county does emissions testing, if so, do your swap and include all smog equipment, if not, well then do what you want, itll be a safety inspection only. The testing will only require it to pass the standards of the year of vehicle production, not too big a deal at that age.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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That's pretty much what I gathered. There's a guy on CL that has a running AMC 360. Gonna see if he still has it next week. When I was in high school, me and my dad put the same motor in our CJ7, only had an RV cam and intake. With the three speed it was a beast! (although a four speed would have been MUCH nicer)
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
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So it's been decided, a V8 will be swaped in place of the old motor. I found an AMC 360 on CL. Just talked to the guy tonight, and somebody is supposed to be picking it up in the next day or two. If it's still there on sat, it'll be mine for 200 bucks.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Anybody have any advice on what d60 rear ends to stay away from? I can't see that there would be much difference between most of them, but I've been known to be wrong also.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:12 AM   #24 (permalink)
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how are you going to get that AMC to pass the sniff test? EFI?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:21 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Thinking about trailering it until it's past 24 yrs old, although I'll look into other options as that would be a pita.
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