There all easy to convert and stronger than hell. If you sit back and watch the classified you should find one already build for a decent price. I just picked mine up for 75$ just need to convert to disc brakes and I'm Lincoln locking it.
if you end up with a C&C axle just put the hubs up for trade for SRW hubs. that what i did and i had a few trade offers here in pirate. or you can score hubs out of a junkyard for cheap. as for the brakes they all use the same rear disk setup. only thing different is the caliper bracket. there is not a bolt on bracket made for a C&C axle with SRW hub though so you'll have to go weld on.
Verify what gears are in the axle before you order your 5.38's, depending on what carrier is in there you will order thick or thin gears (4.56 up or 4.10 down).
Thats just a matter of opinion....not really good advice. Welding spiders and mini spools have serious downfalls depending on intended use.
Besides, 14B lockers are cheap.
If youve read the 14 bible, then you've moreless acquired all the info you need to know.
A few things to note in more detail mentioned above....pay attention to gears. Its not impossible to find a 14B with 4:56 and a detroit. Ask me how I know. (You'll only find these in military vehicles tho.) If you cant find what you intend to use, at least rry to source an axle above the carrier break. This will save you money on a thick set of gears.
Avoid the gov-lok unless you intend to weld it. It is a slighlty diffrent carrier and aftermarket lockers wont fit....unless is a full carrier locker.
If you get a C&C and find its too narrow....you can change to DRW hubs.
Brakes are a cake walk on ALL of them. Brackets are made in bolt on versions and weld on by SEVERAL manufactuers.
And pull some extra yoke straps off a few 14B's....aftermarkets dont fit right. (Thats in the bible.)
Not sure about your local pullapart, but at mine the axle w/o the brakes is a lot cheaper. I think I paid like $70-80 for a 14b I pulled. We just spent some time tearing the drums and backing plates off before we unbolted the axle. It also makes it easier to pull when you drop ~150 lbs of crap off the axle.
Also, I've heard that the 4x4 housings are stronger than the ones from 2wd trucks. I don't know if there is any truth to this as I've never had them side by side to compare.
not any year.. at soem point GM decided to go from a 10.5" ring gear to an 11.5" ring gear i beleive. it's still a 14 bolt but it looks different.. it would be in much newer trucks though. the aftermarket stuff liek lockers and gear sets are not what they are for the 10.5" FF 14 bolt
Measuring the ring gear isn't necessary... 14 bolts and FF hubs + pinion support = what you're looking for. If it's a 9.5" 14b, then the semi floating axles will be the dead giveaway. If it has 14 bolts and no pinion support, and has disc brakes it's a newer AAM 11.5(they never had drums AFAIK).
IF you're going to overpay for a junkyard 14b, then at least get one of the later model axles that have disc brakes:smokin:
Not positive but i think 84 and 85 models have a different pinion support bearing (the small roller on the pinion tip) and are nearly impossible to find, best to look for older or newer models.
And a friend to help move the thing once you find it...They are heavy, even with the hubs and drums pulled off...
In the 14B bible it says the CNC tubes are a little thicker( may not make a big difference), but I chose the CNC axle because of this..Im just changing the hubs out with SRW ones....Just found out 1 hub will fit in a $14 flat rate box....Id do the bearings and such on any "older" junk yard pull anyways, either way, so I would count that as an "added" expense...
pinnion bearing is smaller on the older axles, i got mine out of a 05 2500hd with disks and everything from a junk yard for $350. seems like alot but after you buy an old one and convert to disks you are close on price. Im in the northeast and didint feel like dealing with a 30 year old rusty axle either. my 05 is clean and ready to go, dual piston calipers also
the only way I know to tell are with the older style you have to remove the studs from the hub to take the drum off. On the newer or "second gen", the drum can come off without removing the studs ( or hub?) IIRC.
from the 14b bible:
Different yearsThe year split is '72-88 and 89+. I shall refer to these as "first design" and "second design". Of course, there may be variations. Differences between these years are noted below. Where the difference is known only to apply to certain "types", I shall indicate this. Otherwsie, it is not known whether the differences noted between the years apply to all types or not.
* Second design axles have more fins on the center sectionFirst design axles 1984 and earlier use a different pinion straddle bearing than 1985 and later
* Second design SRW axles in 1-ton pickup trucks and 3/4 ton Suburbans changed to allow for a slide-off drum (drum can be removed without pressing out the wheel studs). The backside of these hubs is not machined flat to accept a rotor, for example. The hub flange is also further inboard to allow for the thickness of the drum.
Just to give my input, I picked up my 14 bolt from a '91 2500 for $100 with a gov-loc carrier. Swapped my carrier to a buddy in my jeep club for free. Cut 2 1/2" off of the pig w/o turning it and then welded a 1/2" plate to the bottom. Can't wait to finish it. And yes, detroits are relatively cheap to run in one.
Sorry to jump in this so late but, I have read the bible, and still wonder, can I cut down a 14B rear and D60 front to fit under a TJ. The 14B is a SRW and if I understand what I am reading I can change the hubs and be good to go. What about the D60. I want to maybe only 1"-2" wider that stock.
My axles are 65" WMS-WMS which is a little narrower than most(normally 67-69")... if I had an extra inch on each side I could get A) more steering angle and B) better link angles up front for improved anti-dive and C) more clearance to fit shocks.
I am running wheels with 3.5" BS... you can get normal width axles and run wheels with 4.5 or 5.0" BS and end up in the exact same width.
edit: If you only want to be 1-2" wider than stock OUTSIDE THE TIRES then you need to either narrow the whole damn tub or think about staying on 35s.
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