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Best options for rear axle truss on a Rubi 44

7K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  SLOWPOKE693 
#1 · (Edited)
First off let me give you all a big :flipoff2:. If it wasn't for this site and all the great builds I see everyday on here, my wallet would be alot happier............ Its all your faults!:shaking:


I'm swapping out my current rear suspension in favor of a triangulated 4-link with 5" of stretch using a set of Poly Perf. 4-link frame brackets as my starting point. I was looking at all the different rear axle trusses, both for the D44 and some universal setups, and can't make up my mind on what one I should go with. I'd like to keep it as low profile as possible for floor clearance, but would like to keep the axle seperation in check. Any idea how much seperation I need to run at the axle end with 6" of seperation at the frame to be safe? :homer: And anybody got a suggestion on what truss to go with?

Thanks
 
#5 ·
I used a ruff specialities truss.

8" of separation is the basic rule.

With my LCAs mounts even with my lower tube, the truss hits the cross member when the LCAs hit the frame when the UCAs hit the tub. Also about 5" of stretch.
 
#9 ·
I tried a Clayton rear D44 truss but it was PITA to deal with the factory sway bar mount brackets as they interfered with where the truss mounts and it didn't offer any center support to the diff which risks putting too much stress on the outer tubes. Essentially you have to cut off the upper half of the sway bar bracket and either drill a new hole into the truss for the mounting bolts or relocate the sway bar all together if your going to keep it.

So I had Trent Fab here in Reno build me one and install it thats welded from spring perch to spring perch and they built me new upper links for my triangulated rear setup to replace the worn RE ones.
 

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#10 ·
I tried a Clayton rear D44 truss but it was PITA to deal with the factory sway bar mount brackets as they interfered with where the truss mounts and it didn't offer any center support to the diff which risks putting too much stress on the outer tubes. Essentially you have to cut off the upper half of the sway bar bracket and either drill a new hole into the truss for the mounting bolts or relocate the sway bar all together if your going to keep it.

I'm going to use an Antirock setup in the rear, and plan on cutting the factory brackets off, swaybar clearance won't be an issue. Also I'm going to weld the tubes to the pumpkin and fab a bolt on brace from the truss to the diff cover if I think its necessary.......... I like the look of your truss. Trentfab does very nice work.
 
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