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83 CJ locker help/advice

1K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  TNCJ7 
#1 ·
I have a 1983 CJ7. It is my mild wheeler now since I have another heep to beat on but went on a trip this past weekend and am fed up with the front end of this thing. I am running the factory widetrack Dana 30 front and AMC 20 rear. The rear has upgraded one piece shafts and full Detroit, 4.56s. The front is my problem child, however, that houses a True trac locker with 4.56s. I have it rollin of 35s but this front not engaging in the worst situations and is killing me! The dang posi is SO tempermental and rarely engaged the whole trip! I am to the point of being so pissed off with this, that I am very much considering swapping it out for a different locker. Here is my question, should I be looking to purchase another locker or is there any remedy to fix what I have? I realize it is not a true locker, but dang this is gonna get me rolled and I really don't wanna roll this good looking ol CJ. I have never set up a locker or any differential but from what I have been reading, they aren't all that bad, just gotta pay attention. I need some advice, tips and hints on setting up another locker if I go that route. What type, brand, etc locker is recommended for the turdy? I have good lockout hubs so street is no problem as long as it is not a spool.
 
#4 ·
The D30 just doesnt justify putting a lot of money into it. Throw a cheap lockright in there and be done with it. I've been running a Lockright in my front 30 for years now without any issues...im turning 36's with a V8.
 
#5 · (Edited)
X2 I put. Locker in my front 30 and started breaking axle joints all the time. I wouldn't spend tge money to upgrade shafts I'd look ahead a little and be honest with myself and build a 44. You'll be money ahead and a broken 30 isn't worth as much in resale as one that's together.
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys for the replys. RANGERROD quick question for you, I see you have the setup you are talkin about in a rig of yours in your sig line so would I have to narrow up a 44 or is there one that is close in wms? I was looking to upgrade both front and rear axles but held off, now it may be back in the picture however with the advice I am seeing.

CJim7 I was thinking that Lockright or the Spartan myself to not be too expensive yet dependable (for what it is). Any further info on your setup would be great.
 
#9 ·
CJim7 I was thinking that Lockright or the Spartan myself to not be too expensive yet dependable (for what it is). Any further info on your setup would be great.
I installed Lockrights front and rear several years ago...when I was running 33's under 4.2 power. They have held up just fine under some pretty serious conditions.
Today, those same axles (1pc rear), 4.10s, 36"TSL's, healthy 401, T18a, and a twinsticked 300. I have had no trouble with the lockers...just the usual U-joint breakage since going bigger. Im still in the planning stages with my new axles which will be 60's and probably ARB's or Detroits.
But to answer your question, the Lockrights are a good choice for a stock axle given the case tolerance will handle it. The biggest factor as far as Lockright failure is to much wear on the case.
 
#7 ·
Don't know if it was a consideration or something you have already taken care of.

BUT if you lock the front end, using stock tie rod and drag link, be prepared to start bending them into a "U" shape.

The TREs seem to survive for a while, but the rest of the stock linkage won't last long.

Wally
 
#10 ·
I had Lockrights in my "stock" axles for a few years too. The rear got a little "loose" after a while, but that really could have been from the case as stated above. I've always heard it just takes some slightly stronger springs to get it back to normal, but I never bothered. I knew when it would unload, and it only did it around corners. When I regeared, I kept the front but replaced the rear with a Detroit since I had to replace the carrier anyway.
 
#11 · (Edited)
i've run power loks

then had rig with a power lok front and detroit rear. upgraded to an air locker front and detroit rear then by chance picked up a amc 20 with air locker and 1 pc shafts for $400 and swapped it in place of my detroit equipt amc 20....... No more ratchet rachet pop, no more shuffling rear end and there are climbs where being able to unlock the rear end mid climb releases the bind and gets you over the top.

for stock axles form time to time you can find screaming overstock deals. i picked up yukon wagoneer dana 44 inner shafts for less than $100. I'd air locker it or id go with a dana 44 and pickup a set of those yukon shafts while you are doing the work. you can always pick up a wagoneer amc 20 (model 23) with 6 lug 1 pc shafts and thicker tubes to match up to a wagoneer front dana 44 and you could re-use all your stuff. they can be had cheap require a little welding to outboard your springs and can be converted to 5 on 5.5, are passengerside drop and only net you 2 more inches of width on each side over your stock axle.


For the money a detroit can be had for about $300 less than an ARB, but i think its worth the extra i sure like the selectability of my joy buttons.

I'm in the process of building 60's for my rig now and i picked up one used arb for $500 local and the other for $611 shipped to my door. depending on how crazy you want to go a dodge dana 61 front end can be bought for dirt cheap i paid $300 for mine and by dumb luck someone had put 35 spline shafts and 35 spline hubs on it already. drilled the welds, bought a currie RJ high pinion import center section for $500 turned the tubes down, pressed the 61 stuff into the HP center and now have a hp passenger side 60. also found the R&p on pirate for Cheap, super D60 10" r&p for the rear and std hp d60 r&p for the front. you can do alot for very little if you shop it around.

think about your long term objectives and plans while you are at it. you have a dana 300 so bronco and driverside stuff aisnt worth teh extra investment imho where as wagoneer stuff if you go 44 is pretty cheap and fits with a little outboarding

I run a healthy & cam'd amc 401 / T18 with 4:1 dana 300 and 4.88 gears and i did that on alloy dana 44s for years but thats living on borrowed time and a few broken dana 44 r&p's in the rear recently and even with carrier cap re-enforcing bolts through the 3/8" steel diff cover to minimize deflection........ i know its time to make an upgrade
 
#12 ·
I blew the lock right pins in my D30. Replaced it with a Spartan and it seems to be as strong or stronger. The pins are bigger and was a breeze to install. Plus the spartan was cheaper and had a new cross pin which i needed since it was wasted when the pins went.
 
#13 · (Edited)
For a front D44 Early Bronco's had a 44 in them about the same width and the same bolt pattern although they are a pretty rare these days. The radius arm wedges are welded on so they can be cut off and spring perches installed in their place. (Just thought of something they are drivers drop axles and yours is more then likely a passenger drop axle.) I have a YJ so I kind of think of the newer Jeeps over the older ones.

As for suggestions on lockers for the front I have blown up a trac lok front in a D30 and just went back to an open carrier. In my next set up I have a Spartain sitting on the shelf waiting for the next rebuild on my Jeep. Personally would have went with a detroit but the cash is just not there so I went with the what I hope is the next best thing.
 
#15 ·
Hey guys thanks for all of your replys. From what I have gathered from all of the info here I think I am just going to go with the elcheapo Spartan locker as a 'for now' thing and be in the process of sourcing some 44s. I knew that I was riding on borrowed time from the start which is why I am taking your advice and not going too expensive (I can have a Spartan and new carrier to my door for about $300). I am starting a new job next week which I expect to see improved pay checks so some waggy 44s, or the other option the 44 and wider 20 may be in the nearer future. Thanks Pirate!!
 
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