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Old 06-09-2011, 09:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bill's 1 Ton No Longer Supercharged 4.0, LM7 Going in TJ Build

Ok, so this is what I used to have starting out...

2004 TJ. 60k Miles. Dana 30 Open, Dana 44 Lunch Box Locker, 4" Lift, 1.25 Body Lift. Overall very clean rust free TJ.









Not the greatest pics, but that is me coming up the ledge on that last shot.

Anyways, I wheeled it this way almost all last season. This winter I started stocking up on parts and finially decided to start a build thread.

It came off the road on March 6, 2011.

Here is what the plan is when complete.

Front:
79 Ford HP60 Front Full Width
5.13 Gears w/ Timken Install Kit
Eaton E-Locker
TNT Truss w/ all mounts
Crossover Steering
Custom Track bar
Radius Type Long Arms (Picked up on eBay super cheap)
Spicer U-Joints
35 Spline Milemarker Supreme Stainless Steel Hubs
Stock 35 spline inner/35 spline Chromo outer
New Seals
Solid Diff Cover
100% New everything (Brakes, Bearings, ect.)
Maybe a little shave/grinding for ground clearance???

Rear:
Corp 14 Bolt (New Style)
5.13 Gears w/ Timken Install Kit
Disc Brake Conversion
Detroit Locker
100% New Everything
Clayton 4 link kit I modified
About 6" of Stretch.

Wheels are custom ordered steels from Diamond Racing Wheels. Had them made to clear the steering but still tuck back under as much as I could. They are 16x10 steel wheels.

Tires are Toyo MT's 38x14.50x16

Here are some pictures starting out.



[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_4z3RbyPKprA/TXW4ZGbDwWI/AAAAAAAAAKc/KuaN14_H6vo/s640/IMG_3512.jpg[/img










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Old 06-09-2011, 10:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Rear Axle cleaned off








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Old 06-09-2011, 10:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Starting the rear axle install:




















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Old 06-09-2011, 10:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Rear Frame Work:








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Old 06-09-2011, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Front Axle Cleaned











These are with the TNT truss system sitting on top to check for fit.







Here you can see I needed to grind down the cast in leaf spring perch some. Its not a big deal as TNT tells you it has to be done. I just wanted everyone to see about how much you have to grind out using this truss.




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Old 06-09-2011, 10:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Front axle after grinding it down and a few to compair it to the old D30.









Welded the tubes since I ended up grinding a lot of the cast on that side away.




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Old 06-09-2011, 10:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Front Suspension is getting there.












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Old 06-09-2011, 10:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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14 Bolt Shave
















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Old 06-09-2011, 10:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Gearing the 14 bolt:













Anyways, tomorrow is another day. Hopfully I can finish the rear off and then move on to the front.

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Old 06-09-2011, 10:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Inital contact pattern:







Final Pattern:


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Old 06-09-2011, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Rear Axle ready for paint. It came a heck of a long way from a broken 14 bolt rusting away to here.










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Old 06-09-2011, 10:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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This is only a few of the pictures I took of the progress. Its not 100% complete yet, but getting there. The rear axle is ready for install. Next up is locker / gear install in the front.

My to do list is getting smaller by the day and I hope to have it out wheeling again soon.

So there you are. Probably should have started a build thread here from the get go vice waiting till I'm on the home stretch, but I guess better late then never.

Sorry for the massive picture over load.

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Old 06-10-2011, 01:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Very nicely done.
Thanks for sharing the pics
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Are you planning to add any more to the rear truss? I would be worried about it failing with just the single tube and no other reinforcement.

Looking good though.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm not planning on adding anything else. That was one of the Clayton parts I didn't mess with much. I know it looks simple, but it is strong. I know of three people running that same truss on rocks and none have had any issues with it.

If I ever did add to it, I would put a bolt on support from the rear diff cover to the truss. I've seen that done on here a bunch and it would be easy to do.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yeah thats what I was thinking about. Cool.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Nice looking jeep man!!!!
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:11 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Build looks great so far just wondering who makes that 14 bolt diff cover thanks.
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:33 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Are you still running the 4" lift coils?

How much clearance is there with the TNT truss and upper driver side control arm mount with everything else in the area?

Looking good!
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill3753 View Post
I'm not planning on adding anything else. That was one of the Clayton parts I didn't mess with much. I know it looks simple, but it is strong. I know of three people running that same truss on rocks and none have had any issues with it.

If I ever did add to it, I would put a bolt on support from the rear diff cover to the truss. I've seen that done on here a bunch and it would be easy to do.
Y would you run that truss on rocks? I would add the diff cover support in there is a reason you see it a lot on here.
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
Build looks great so far just wondering who makes that 14 bolt diff cover thanks.
The cover is a kit you can get from Undercover Fab. You can either buy it unwelded or welded. I elected to get the unwelded version and welded it up myself.

http://undercoverfab.com/fabricated-...r-diy-kit.html

After using their cover, Belly Skid, and transmission mount in this build I am willing to say I like their stuff and would defiantly use it again on a future build. Everything is well made and goes together well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Impact View Post
Are you still running the 4" lift coils?

How much clearance is there with the TNT truss and upper driver side control arm mount with everything else in the area?

Looking good!
I am still going to run the 4" coils. Plan is to do a full high line similar to the way they did it in the link below:

http://www.higherground4x4.com/2/diy...-mod-for-cheap

Basically, I'll be running 4" coils and a 1" body lift (needed to clear the Genright fuel cell and Belly Skid). Combine that with the high line body and it all should clear the 38" with 4" up / 9" down travel in the front and 4" up / 10" down in the rear. My main goal is to keep it low, maintain the back seat, and increase ground clearance. Secondary goals are to keep it semi legal to drive on the road as I drive to and from trails. Plus, its just fun to load the family up and go out for Ice Cream on a nice Sunday afternoon, lol.

The TNT Truss with Radius arm type long arms makes it tight in that area, but it all clears. The only thing I am probably going to need to modify is the engine/transmission skid I built last year when running it on the D30 with 33's. It is much larger and goes father forward them most though, so if your using an off the shelf skid I think it would probably clear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerpeeler View Post
Y would you run that truss on rocks? I would add the diff cover support in there is a reason you see it a lot on here.
Ok... I give. Last night I built a support from the cover to the truss. Additionally, I reinforced the mounting tabs for the upper links. I plasma cut all the brackets out of 3/16" plate and it bolts together with three 7/16" bolts. I still don't think I will truly needed it, but I do plan to wheel this hard and I guess I just finally decided to drink the cool-aid and get it over with. Like I said, I don't think I need it, but this way I'll never have to worry about it.

Also last night, I built sway bar mounts to the front, cycled the front suspension one last time, added a few gussets to the truss, and started finishing up the Belly Skid. As mentioned earlier, I bought the skid from Undercover Fab and it is really nice. I modified it to clear my long arms and after doing so I feel that the strength will be compromised. I am welding in two more reinforcements running the length of the skid out of 2"x.75"x.25" Channel. When I'm done it will be very beefy and ready to go.

Tonight, I am looking to finish the skid, pull the front end for gearing and paint, grind and finish weld the front frame side lower control arm mounts, and then paint everything for final install. I might not get to the painting, but we'll see. I'll have some updated pictures up here tonight to show the new truss support plus all the other progress I made over the weekend.

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Old 06-26-2011, 10:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Rear axle and suspension complete:

Its not sitting at ride height. I have it on stands to keep it more stable with stands on the axle and frame while finishing up the rest. I did cycle it though and it all worked great.
















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Old 06-26-2011, 10:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Here are some of the new rear Genright bumper and fuel cell. The bumper will eventually have a flip down tire carrier mounted to it. I liked how it came together and how it ties into the frame. It also has additional support on the back of the cross member.





The fuel cell is awsome. Its just about complete. I'll post some more of it installed in a day or two. I'll have it done tomorrow night.







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Old 06-26-2011, 10:26 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hope the porosity on that shaved 14 bolt weld didn't continue throughout the weld. otherwise looks good.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:57 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Hope the porosity on that shaved 14 bolt weld didn't continue throughout the weld. otherwise looks good.
The porosity in that shot is limited to that area. I needed a little more build up in that area so I could make the mating surface for the gasket a smooth transition. When I did that weld, I did pre-heat and post-heat, but I didn't hold the arc long enough or close enough. That caused me to trap some slag and hence the porosity in the weld there. I was trying to just build a little metal up there, but it didn't come out as well as I hoped. It did allow me to grind a smooth transition though, so being it was just that one area it didn't bother me.

The plate itself was a 1/2" plate I ground undercut to a 45 degree angle and then using multiple passes I filled in. It between passes the welds were stress relieved and heat was kept constant around 450 degrees. After that, I continued with the same method building the weld out so I could grind a sooth transition from the original housing into the plate. Once it was all done (before the grinding) it was wrapped in multiple layers of a heat blanket and allowed to slowly cool over night. It took forever to get it right, but I am confident it will hold.

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