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Old 07-05-2011, 07:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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revolver shackles front and rear difference??

I have front revolver shackles on my Yj now. I want to put these on the rear but quadratec lists different part numbers for the rear revovlers, but looking at the pictures thay appear to be identicle. Anyone know if the front revolvers will work on the rear?
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Fine I will be the bad guy....

Revolver shackles are death trap pieces of shit. They don't work on the rear any better then they do on the front but if I'm not mistaken they are identical.

Do yourself and everybody else around you a favor and cut those Revolvers down and turn them into shock tabs or something.

Sorry for not giving you an answer you were probably looking for, but you didn't get any replys because those things are hated like the plague on this board.

Best of luck to you.
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[QUOTE=Dieselmh]I'll cave his fucking head in with a shovel, just to show him that just because he has opposable thumbs, that doesn't put him on the same badassedness level as humans. Stupid arrogant possums. :shaking:[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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And now from someone who has been running them front and rear on his YJ for years without any issues and is still very much alive thank you.

I also don't think there really is any physical difference between the front and rear revolvers. both pairs look the same to me on my YJ
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The Black Sheep View Post
Fine I will be the bad guy....

Revolver shackles are death trap pieces of shit. They don't work on the rear any better then they do on the front but if I'm not mistaken they are identical.

Do yourself and everybody else around you a favor and cut those Revolvers down and turn them into shock tabs or something.

Sorry for not giving you an answer you were probably looking for, but you didn't get any replys because those things are hated like the plague on this board.

Best of luck to you.
I know the deal man!!! I have been using revolvers for 2 years with no problems. Just changed from soa to sua rear and would like alittle more droop. If they are identicle and interchangable then why in the hell would quadratec list 2 different part numbers. By the way ,your playing the bad guy very well, maybe even get a fuckkin grammy or something.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I can't see them being that much different. YJ springs are the same width front and rear. I guess worst case just fab a little.
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Old 07-05-2011, 02:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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*Edit* I figured it out. Its because of the rear frame rail on YJs, if you have a shackle that runs too flat due to longer springs or run a military wrap spring then the main eye will hit the frame under compression. Undoutedly the rear YJ revolver is different to work correctly with the rear frame rails.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ View Post
And now from someone who has been running them front and rear on his YJ for years without any issues and is still very much alive thank you.

I also don't think there really is any physical difference between the front and rear revolvers. both pairs look the same to me on my YJ
You are in the extreme minorty, like the .01% minority. You also have to wheel your rig to see why they suck, not bumble down fire roads or go for broke on the RTI ramp. They suck going fast, they suck going slow, they suck on side hills, they suck going down steep inclines or up steep inclines, they do nothing to help axle wrap, they do nothing to aid traction. The only thing they are good for is uncontrolled droop which means bigger scores and bragging rights during RTI competitions. They were a cheap fix when the whole huge flex fad was going on and everybody wanted huge wheel travel, without spending the money on a good suspension, and at the cost of safety and performance. They suck, they are dangerous. It's not even arguable except here in this thread in the JU infested web-wheeling, mall crawling, Non-hardcore forum of Pirate4x4.

If you are trolling me then congrats, I took the bait. If not I would back away from arguing any merit those pieces of garbage have in this thread or any other, otherwise the mob will be in this thread, flame throws and napalm at the ready.
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[QUOTE=Dieselmh]I'll cave his fucking head in with a shovel, just to show him that just because he has opposable thumbs, that doesn't put him on the same badassedness level as humans. Stupid arrogant possums. :shaking:[/QUOTE]

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Old 07-05-2011, 04:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=



You are in the extreme minorty, like the .01% minority. You also have to wheel your rig to see why they suck, not bumble down fire roads or go for broke on the RTI ramp. They suck going fast, they suck going slow, they suck on side hills, they suck going down steep inclines or up steep inclines, they do nothing to help axle wrap, they do nothing to aid traction. The only thing they are good for is uncontrolled droop which means bigger scores and bragging rights during RTI competitions. They were a cheap fix when the whole huge flex fad was going on and everybody wanted huge wheel travel, without spending the money on a good suspension, and at the cost of safety and performance. They suck, they are dangerous. It's not even arguable except here in this thread in the JU infested web-wheeling, mall crawling, Non-hardcore forum of Pirate4x4.

If you are trolling me then congrats, I took the bait. If not I would back away from arguing any merit those pieces of garbage have in this thread or any other, otherwise the mob will be in this thread, flame throws and napalm at the ready.[/QUOTE]

This is so true, but I think it's all personal preference.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=The Black Sheep;13086260]*Edit* I figured it out. Its because of the rear frame rail on YJs, if you have a shackle that runs too flat due to longer springs or run a military wrap spring then the main eye will hit the frame under compression. Undoutedly the rear YJ revolver is different to work correctly with the rear frame rails.



Thats what I need. Thanks man....
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ View Post
And now from someone who has been running them front and rear on his YJ for years without any issues and is still very much alive thank you.

I also don't think there really is any physical difference between the front and rear revolvers. both pairs look the same to me on my YJ
This is not the reflection we want of local OB crawlers. I sure hope ur not the green jeep up the hill on Newport or Santa Monica Ave...
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Sheep View Post
*Edit* I figured it out. Its because of the rear frame rail on YJs, if you have a shackle that runs too flat due to longer springs or run a military wrap spring then the main eye will hit the frame under compression. Undoutedly the rear YJ revolver is different to work correctly with the rear frame rails.



You are in the extreme minorty, like the .01% minority. You also have to wheel your rig to see why they suck, not bumble down fire roads or go for broke on the RTI ramp. They suck going fast, they suck going slow, they suck on side hills, they suck going down steep inclines or up steep inclines, they do nothing to help axle wrap, they do nothing to aid traction. The only thing they are good for is uncontrolled droop which means bigger scores and bragging rights during RTI competitions. They were a cheap fix when the whole huge flex fad was going on and everybody wanted huge wheel travel, without spending the money on a good suspension, and at the cost of safety and performance. They suck, they are dangerous. It's not even arguable except here in this thread in the JU infested web-wheeling, mall crawling, Non-hardcore forum of Pirate4x4.

If you are trolling me then congrats, I took the bait. If not I would back away from arguing any merit those pieces of garbage have in this thread or any other, otherwise the mob will be in this thread, flame throws and napalm at the ready.
lol. Fire roads. I've never driven those. I wheel my YJ and I wheel it hard. Climbs, descents, rocks, sand, fast, slow. Again, for me they have worked well and have never caused me any problems. I have not experienced the instant unloading that so many people seem to have done and I have taken it down Heart Attack hill with revolvers front and rear, didnt have any issues there. Its been up and down phone booth hill in Truckhaven from both sides numerous times without any incidents, same thing in the notches. I don't have any complaints with the Revolvers. Are they the best thing since sliced bread? No, probably not. But they arent the pure evil thing that everyone makes them out to be.

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Old 07-06-2011, 09:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinDesignz View Post
This is not the reflection we want of local OB crawlers. I sure hope ur not the green jeep up the hill on Newport or Santa Monica Ave...
Nope, im the green YJ on Del Monte. (well green, black, and primer at the moment. doing a major rework on her at the moment in prep for a new paint job. then I'll have to change my user name cause it wont be green anymore)

I've seen that one though, its funny cause I was originally gonna paint my YJ that color too, but its too common these days.
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey, for the record.
The revolver shackles work great, if you can read directions.
This Black Sheep guy is a flaming tard.
Common sense is needed here, this is an old thread with bad information. No one knows how to back up their experence with these shackles.
So I'll register just to reply here and snuff out this old crappy thread.

1. You must install the shackles correctly. This would be with the point facing the the axles inward. The smaller side goes to the Spring; the long shakle side goes to the body.
2. You must Grease the shackles and make sure the resovor is filled. To work properly, can't be dry.
2. On road, you should have a sway bar, and track bar. Your sway bar and track bar should be able to release (JKS makes the track bar) and discos. Duh? If this has been all cut off and removed, ya it might be unsafe. Depends on you're steering setup.
3. Your front shocks must be able to compress 10.5 to 12" and if you bought a lift kit, it most likely came with longer shocks that accommodate this measurement. The rear shocks are 8-10" travel I believe. The exstend and compress need to be correct to your lift and have the proper travel. You can measure if you want.
**4. Exstended brake lines, tested at full articulation.

The shackle side connected to the spring "revolves" and seems to be a brilliant design. This take the flex and pressure of the spring (avoid broken spring purchases).

The shackles also scissor up and down, allowing a wide range of articulation. Which will be safe if you're not to imbread. You should also have the proper bump stops in place, and proper shocks/extended brake lines.

I don't see anyone mentioning that while on uneven surfaces L/R, if one wheel drops 6" in a pot hole, the shackles will allow the when to drop and not tug the steering in the direction of the pothole.

If you're worried about on-road, they have pins you can install to lock the shakles keeping them unable to acuate and thus making it a normal shakle.

I hate bad information.
I just bought these shackles, read through all the good and bad in for in a few hours.
Installed them the right way, and my bumpsteer has improved a noticeable amount, and I still need to replace all my TREs still (woren out).

It makes the car feeldiffrent, but its a huge improvrment on so many levels.
I would say these revolvers teraflex make and others are better that coil suspension (maybe even coilovers, compared on an equal shock level).

5/5 stars on these shackles.
SYE was a good upgrade, but revolvers setup correct kill it. I'm a daily driver here in Orange County HB, traffic and comuiting is a nightmare, and still loving these shackles.
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey, for the record.
The revolver shackles work great, if you can read directions.
This Black Sheep guy is a flaming tard.
Common sense is needed here, this is an old thread with bad information. No one knows how to back up their experence with these shackles.
So I'll register just to reply here and snuff out this old crappy thread.

1. You must install the shackles correctly. This would be with the point facing the the axles inward. The smaller side goes to the Spring; the long shakle side goes to the body.
2. You must Grease the shackles and make sure the resovor is filled. To work properly, can't be dry.
2. On road, you should have a sway bar, and track bar. Your sway bar and track bar should be able to release (JKS makes the track bar) and discos. Duh? If this has been all cut off and removed, ya it might be unsafe. Depends on you're steering setup.
3. Your front shocks must be able to compress 10.5 to 12" and if you bought a lift kit, it most likely came with longer shocks that accommodate this measurement. The rear shocks are 8-10" travel I believe. The exstend and compress need to be correct to your lift and have the proper travel. You can measure if you want.
**4. Exstended brake lines, tested at full articulation.

The shackle side connected to the spring "revolves" and seems to be a brilliant design. This take the flex and pressure of the spring (avoid broken spring purchases).

The shackles also scissor up and down, allowing a wide range of articulation. Which will be safe if you're not to imbread. You should also have the proper bump stops in place, and proper shocks/extended brake lines.

I don't see anyone mentioning that while on uneven surfaces L/R, if one wheel drops 6" in a pot hole, the shackles will allow the when to drop and not tug the steering in the direction of the pothole.

If you're worried about on-road, they have pins you can install to lock the shakles keeping them unable to acuate and thus making it a normal shakle.

I hate bad information.
I just bought these shackles, read through all the good and bad in for in a few hours.
Installed them the right way, and my bumpsteer has improved a noticeable amount, and I still need to replace all my TREs still (woren out).

It makes the car feeldiffrent, but its a huge improvrment on so many levels.
I would say these revolvers teraflex make and others are better that coil suspension (maybe even coilovers, compared on an equal shock level).

5/5 stars on these shackles.
SYE was a good upgrade, but revolvers setup correct kill it. I'm a daily driver here in Orange County HB, traffic and comuiting is a nightmare, and still loving these shackles.
For every guy like you, there are three guys whom have installed them, and then removed them.

Revolvers are to suspension components as Thornbirds are to tires.

Wait till you drop off a 5 foot ledge, and the back revolvers unload and you go ass over teakettle down the hill. Better have your foot firmly on the gas pedal.

There simply is no reason to have these.

And nice bump of a dead thread.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, we need have different perceptions to what off-roading means. Mud bogging, extreme 4x4, off-road racing, weekend warriors, some people just take it slow and get there.
I'm not dropping off 5' cliffs to often.

That brings up a key thing here too for all lifted Jeeps.

When you lift a veichel up, it changes the tipping points of the veichel.
So we should all be looking into "stretching" (they call it), which will lower the tipping points back to stock; which would allow you to climb 90 degree rock faces if you stretch it out looong.
But were talking like 2.5+ in in front, 1.5-2+ rear.
Pain in the ass to do, brushing up on my welding skills and stretch funds.

Me personally, I'm avoiding some obstacles.
Each driver has a different skill set when driving too.
When going strait down, you always approach at an angle; guess what? articulation will be you're friend and only ally here.

I'm not a Baja 1000 racer, I'm not hitting shit at 40-50 mpg.

Different pages, different rigs, different projects going on, same end goal.

Its not the higher the lift the better, its 3.5-4.5 max for drive train angles; then articulation.

The stretch makes the rig "untipable" $$$$

I hear you, there should be a warning; alit more warnings on all aftermarket products.
Do youre homework, read, watch videos, collect facts and not opinions.

I tried to keep it factual, despite my auto spell correct mistakes.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBwildman View Post
Hey, for the record.
The revolver shackles work great, if you can read directions.
This Black Sheep guy is a flaming tard.
Common sense is needed here, this is an old thread with bad information. No one knows how to back up their experence with these shackles.
So I'll register just to reply here and snuff out this old crappy thread.

1. You must install the shackles correctly. This would be with the point facing the the axles inward. The smaller side goes to the Spring; the long shakle side goes to the body.
2. You must Grease the shackles and make sure the resovor is filled. To work properly, can't be dry.
2. On road, you should have a sway bar, and track bar. Your sway bar and track bar should be able to release (JKS makes the track bar) and discos. Duh? If this has been all cut off and removed, ya it might be unsafe. Depends on you're steering setup.
3. Your front shocks must be able to compress 10.5 to 12" and if you bought a lift kit, it most likely came with longer shocks that accommodate this measurement. The rear shocks are 8-10" travel I believe. The exstend and compress need to be correct to your lift and have the proper travel. You can measure if you want.
**4. Exstended brake lines, tested at full articulation.

The shackle side connected to the spring "revolves" and seems to be a brilliant design. This take the flex and pressure of the spring (avoid broken spring purchases).

The shackles also scissor up and down, allowing a wide range of articulation. Which will be safe if you're not to imbread. You should also have the proper bump stops in place, and proper shocks/extended brake lines.

I don't see anyone mentioning that while on uneven surfaces L/R, if one wheel drops 6" in a pot hole, the shackles will allow the when to drop and not tug the steering in the direction of the pothole.

If you're worried about on-road, they have pins you can install to lock the shakles keeping them unable to acuate and thus making it a normal shakle.

I hate bad information.
I just bought these shackles, read through all the good and bad in for in a few hours.
Installed them the right way, and my bumpsteer has improved a noticeable amount, and I still need to replace all my TREs still (woren out).

It makes the car feeldiffrent, but its a huge improvrment on so many levels.
I would say these revolvers teraflex make and others are better that coil suspension (maybe even coilovers, compared on an equal shock level).

5/5 stars on these shackles.
SYE was a good upgrade, but revolvers setup correct kill it. I'm a daily driver here in Orange County HB, traffic and comuiting is a nightmare, and still loving these shackles.
Are you affiliated with Tera flex?



Anyone who says revolver shackles work great obviously does not actually wheel, argue all you want, they suck. My buddies XJ with rear revolvers would even unload under hard acceleration on pavement


They fixed your bump steer? ...... You must be trolling.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well, if you want to productively get into it; I'm willing.

Hell no, and I was thinking the same thing about you nay sayers; must work for crappy rough country or similar china products companies.

Teraflex, made in the USA.

The revolvers are the only product I own of theirs.
With plans to get a TeraLow 4:1 if that's even their product??

My question to your friend that ran the revolvers:
What was his exact setup with the revolvers?
Steering setup? Everything.
Might have been a death trap before the revolvers were even put on?

We need to hear from the people that user them, not "I heard a guy say once" stuff, that's not real.

Dont have time for trolling, only real shit.
Don't waist my time.

Background:
Leaf springs are really old and reliable design.
This market ended in the 80s, minus some heavy duty trucks (towing/hauling needs, cheap), and cheaper designed cars.

Revolvers were out in like 2005, and Teraflex is crazy to try to bring something new to an old market that has died and left unchanged and no longer developed much further in design.

Seems like they were shot down at the beginning, most likely to keep the China company's rich by negative publicity. People believe anything.

If you actually care, I will share what I have found in my research; and you are free to pick it apart and dispute it.
However, not if you plan to use opinion over fact.

I'm sure the revolvers could be improved upon, or a "kit" made from further testing.
But with no demand for the revolvers, there will be no more research and development.

I do IT work, sell Cloud services to small and medium businesses... I have no alliance with any company, I make my own opinions. I take other peoples advice and opinions into play.

I'm a craigslist hunter, junkyard finder.

Who are you?
Making all these assumptions, and hearsay.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Improved the bumpsteer, explained above.
Not fixed, I need new Tie Rod Ends, the "thingys" that hold you're steering together.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Easy to understand:
When your left tire is on a flat surface, your right tire drops 6" in a pot hole while driving.

A normal shackle will transfer that conetict energy received by the tire/axle, which will transfer to the body and steering pulling the car towards the pot hole.

With a revolver shakle, the tire can stay evenly on the ground.
This is because of a small acuation between the leaf spring purch connected to the bottom shackle, pivoting off the point where the upper shakle meets the lower shakle.
The connect energy is stopped there, not traveling to the body. The energy is absorbed by the axles, which is ended by the spring end pivoting on the lower revolver shakle.
At some point, the revolver shakle would open up and be free floating; but still keeping the tires on the ground, which kind of eliminates this kind of binding condition during bumpsteer.

The revolving part of the shakle is what makes the leafy spring capable of more twisting and compression; that only a coil spring can give you, but with out the use of control arms. That's the kicker for me, equally as the sissoring articulation aspect.

Revolver is the name; Being able to flex in a way that would break a leaf spring purch normally, and flex that wasn't possible with a fixed shackle.

Go on YouTube and watch the video of the guy with a gopro attached under his Jeep, its on-road.
But you can see in the video how the spring is able to flex up and down, not transferring the movement to the body.

All the off-road videos of the revolvers, you will see a lot of smiles and people amazed by how much the veichel can articulate allowing the body to remain in a flat nutral position.

Video research says a lot, the actual instructions provided by Teraflex are helpful, forums are all junk into with some useful experiences mixed in between a bunch of people flaming the thread. Always good to talk to someone who actually used the shackles, but without asking the right questions; his opinion or experience might not be valid.

Personal experience is key.
When I purchased the shackles used, I asked the previous owner his experiences and thoughts.
He was running it on a crazy Land Cruiser, had SOAs and crazy mods going on, his steering stabilizer and drag link were all inverted and very bad.
I thanked him, and told him to fix his steering asap.
Off-road only or not.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You're and idiot with a boner for your revolver shackles and too much time on his hands. Let me guess, you're 18? 20? I'm not going to pick apart your argument because it's not worth my time.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Whatever, you just don't have anything to bring to the table.
Friend, of a friend of a friend's roommates brother said, time waisted.
No I don't have much free time, just able to see through the bullshit.
If you had anything to say that was worthwhile, you would had said it.

Your obviously a troll, most likely the others too.

What would happen if I read all the comments you posted? Would they just be you flaming everyone's thread?

Original question for this thread was; are the two shackles the same. No.
There's a rear and a front, rear has shorter shakle to frame.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I had them.

Before they were Teraflex. Cannot remember whom introduced them unto the market. Had them on a 5 with Rancho springs. About 20 years ago. Yes, you could ramp 'em. They damn near killed me. Not figuratively. But literally. But then again I wheel.

Took them off and sold them at the swap meet.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If a tire is dropped out without spring pressure it might as well be in the air, it does nothing. The fact that it can simply.......oh never mind they fucking suck that's all. If you run them and they work great than stop wheeling the mall and find some real shit.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Again, I'm not going to argue with you.

I did punch in "revolver shackles" into YouTube and this was the first video with actual wheelin in it. Pretty lame climb at that for that rig.

Tacoma sas 38 bogger fail revolver shackle: http://youtu.be/HfuQJCf4uwY

Is this you?

YJ at Wildomar: http://youtu.be/onEAjQDmqqs
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBwildman View Post
So I'll register just to reply here and snuff out this old crappy thread.
This old crappy thread was already snuffed out before you had to register just to try to thump your chest on how great your POS Revolvers are.

Did you really think that your opinion would change others' experiences with them?
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hahahhaha.

No one has said anything with any value, just a bunch of white sheep on a computer.

Some dude says he had them and he sold them at a swap meet.
He said he had Rancho shocks... Well that doesn't mean shit, you would have to tell us what life kit or something of value to determine if you even had the correct equipment. How did they almost kill you? wtf are u talking about bro!!

Cool, you went to youtube and looked around.
But your fucking blind, don't even know what you're looking at kid (mentally).

Boner for my shackles? no
Pissed off of all the monkeys on the forums, posting crap?
Ya. Flaming monkeys, this original topic poster posted a real question.
He didn't ask for your fucking monkey advice.
You fucking asshats

The only VALID point brough up was from "Treeclimber"
Quote:
Wait till you drop off a 5 foot ledge, and the back revolvers unload and you go ass over teakettle down the hill. Better have your foot firmly on the gas pedal.
That's what limiting straps are for buddy.
Not fucking rocket science dude.

Some of you are right about one thing, I haven't fully tested it off-road.
I'm still collecting the right equipment to complete the install.

I don't have the read shackles on yet.

But I will come back on here and give a truthful opinion of the off-road experience, once I have it setup.

Maybe it is a death trap off-road, but you wouldn't know unless you know what the fuck you're talking about.

It's just like you bought a stock muscle car, and bought a 800HP intake for it.
But it doesn't mean shit unless the motor is pumping out 800HP.

So if you just slapped on some Revolver Shackles on a stock Jeep and went wheeling, your a fucking moron.
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