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Old 06-20-2012, 06:02 PM   #601 (permalink)
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I don't really have a problem with the sm420 but rather the sm420 to D18 adapter....

My current adapter is a custom one-off thing that is only 1/2" long. This doesn't allow very much room for a front driveshaft u-joint. I have to run a very small 1100 series joint on the front shaft. The reverse bulge is also a big pain for front driveshaft clearance with a passenger drop front end.

Your normal SM420 to Dana 18 adapters are around 4-4.5" long. You might be able to run a normal 1310 front output yoke but you still have to contend with the reverse bulge.

I need to keep the D18. I don't have any extra room for anything larger and I would like to keep my full-float offset rear D44.

A sm465 or T18 with both be shorter than your normal sm420/d18 combo by almost 2". The 465 seems to have more conflict issues with clocking, twin stick clearance, etc.

I basically want to eliminate the one off welded input gear, front output, and front output mini-yoke from my current setup....in the shortest overall combo.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:51 AM   #602 (permalink)
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I drove the Willys into work today....

I got one 'Thats badass' and one thumbs up at the gas station while I got my ice tea.

Overall it drove pretty nice. I have a slight shake in the steering wheel at 50-55? I think its probably the front tires being out of round, out of balance, or not having a steering stabilizer. You can still let go of the steering wheel and it tracks straight at 50+ ( the wheel just moves back and forth a bit? )

Think I should put a steering stabilizer on it?

Fun Fun
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:01 AM   #603 (permalink)
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Sounds like a balance issue to me. I'd have the tires re-balanced before I did a stabilizer.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:01 AM   #604 (permalink)
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advance adapters has a new thing adapter for the sm465 to the spicer 18. supposed to be shorter overall than the sm420/18 and reduce the passenger side bulge that interferes with the drive shaft. but it requires a rebuild of the transmission.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:07 AM   #605 (permalink)
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advance adapters has a new thing adapter for the sm465 to the spicer 18. supposed to be shorter overall than the sm420/18 and reduce the passenger side bulge that interferes with the drive shaft. but it requires a rebuild of the transmission.
Correct. It's only 7/8" thick and has three clocking positions for the t-case. The main issue I found with it was that the factory twin stick D18 shift tower only works in the lowest position....

SM465 with the AA or Novak adapter is just about 13". My existing setup is only 10.9" long It a neat adapter system, but just too many issues being a one off full custom unit.

T18 with a factory length adapter also comes out to just about 13" long.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:55 AM   #606 (permalink)
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adding a stabilizer made a large difference in driver comfort on mine. I tuned and tweeked the steering and alignment until i felt it was good as could possibly be, and really got it very good, then threw on the stabilizer and that took it from feeling good to feeling great.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:07 AM   #607 (permalink)
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Yup. I am going to play with tire pressure and tire balance a bit first, but with big heavy Krawlers on steel beadlocks I think a stabilizer will probably be the way to go.

I need to see how much room i have behind the tie-rod also....things are kinda tight.....
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:52 PM   #608 (permalink)
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i run 35" krawlers on steels and a stablizer with no issues. i rarely air the tires up from 12lbs unless i have to road it a lot. the farthest i travel to a dirt road is only about 10 miles
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #609 (permalink)
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i run 35" krawlers on steels and a stablizer with no issues. i rarely air the tires up from 12lbs unless i have to road it a lot. the farthest i travel to a dirt road is only about 10 miles
Its not a huge problem, just something I noticed today while on the road this morning...it could easily be the road surface ( grooved concrete ), tire pressure, or too much caffeine.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:37 PM   #610 (permalink)
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or too much caffeine.
Oddly enough, this is a solid observation. A flatty is a twitchy thing to drive, and i've noticed how i feel, my mood and how much i've been driving it can play a big part in how much i enjoy driving it and how critical i am of its road manners.

example: if i get up early to go wheeling, i've had some coffee but am not fully awake, the little thing can just feel like a HANDFULL to drive and i don't enjoy it at all, i'm just trying to survive until i can get it in the dirt and all i think about is what can i do to get it to drive better.

at the end of the day, heading home, i've had a blast, i'm in a great mood and i've been in the seat all day, i cruise down highway 36 at 55mph in traffic with one hand loosely on the wheel, a foot hanging out the side, and a shit eating grin plastered on my face.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:45 PM   #611 (permalink)
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Yup, well said.

As I get more seat time and more miles on it I am getting much more comfortable in it, but also much more critical of it.

It is also VERY different to drive. The entire vehicle is very low to the ground, the seat is laid back, you can just barely see the hood, and there is also a lot of big noisy tire now to far away from your head.....

I also run a pretty small 12-13" diameter steering wheel. That does make it more sensitive, even with the 4-turn power steering box on it.....

I'm not saying its bad at all. Its probably one of the better driving and handling flat fenders I have been in. Its just that its so different than anything else its just odd. It is low enough and wide enough that you can actually toss it into the corners a bit without much body roll at all. Sliding it around on gravel and dirt roads is also very fun. It's basically a big kids 4wd shifter cart with 35" tires.

I think everyone needs one of these things!
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:13 PM   #612 (permalink)
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Hey Jeds Machine makes an adapter for the Np435 that is less than 3" long. The total for the adapter and the tranny is less than 13".

I've been thinking of going that route with my doubler since rear driveshaft length is a concern. Im going to go Ax5 bellhousing/Np435/Ford Np203/Flipped Dana 300(or mabey a Stak replace-a-case). If I use the Jeds machine Np435 apapter I believe that I'll have enough room for the NWF Doubler kit and still have a rear shaft without having to shove the rear axle back too far..

Ive already got 2 of the 435's and i also scored one of the MYTHICAL Ford 203's but im having trouble finding a dang Dana 300.

Also the 435's shift fine, you just cant downshift into 1st too well cause its a spur gear. I had one in an 84 F150 with a 300 6cyl, if you double clutched and rev'd the engine to the right RPM then, and ONLY THEN, could you downshift to 1st. I will say that it's one of the only manual trannys that I havent tore up..

How long is you rear driveshaft now?
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:54 PM   #613 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Hey Jeds Machine makes an adapter for the Np435 that is less than 3" long. The total for the adapter and the tranny is less than 13".

I've been thinking of going that route with my doubler since rear driveshaft length is a concern. Im going to go Ax5 bellhousing/Np435/Ford Np203/Flipped Dana 300(or mabey a Stak replace-a-case). If I use the Jeds machine Np435 apapter I believe that I'll have enough room for the NWF Doubler kit and still have a rear shaft without having to shove the rear axle back too far..

Ive already got 2 of the 435's and i also scored one of the MYTHICAL Ford 203's but im having trouble finding a dang Dana 300.

Also the 435's shift fine, you just cant downshift into 1st too well cause its a spur gear. I had one in an 84 F150 with a 300 6cyl, if you double clutched and rev'd the engine to the right RPM then, and ONLY THEN, could you downshift to 1st. I will say that it's one of the only manual trannys that I havent tore up..

How long is you rear driveshaft now?
My rear driveshaft is 21.75" long currently. I have some room to work with but not a ton. Since my transfer case is so high in the chassis I do have some angle issues.....

The Jeds Machine adapter is only to the round ford 203 mounting pattern with a 31 spline (?) output shaft?

Looking at his adapter design it look like its somewhat modular and could be modified for other applications.

At one time Klune made a np435 to toyota reduction box adapter that was very short.

I like the np435 a lot, but it does have a few other issue for me in regard to the bellhousing and my funky loop over under exhaust.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:02 PM   #614 (permalink)
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Wild horses also has a VERY thin np435 to dodge np203 adapter. It uses a 23-spline output shaft.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...Super_Crawlers



With a little bit of a redesign this adapter could make for a VERY short D300 connection with the 23 spline output shaft.

I'm tempted to design something really exotic, but honestly I just want something that works and doesn't leak! I need a cnc mill with a 4th....and a measuring probe......
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #615 (permalink)
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I got BFG 35/12.50-15 KM2's on 15x8 wheels on my flatie and other than the typical road noise it runs out around 65mph and handles pretty well. The power steering I put on helped to make it a lot more comfortable to drive. My rig sets on new stock springs with a spring over, other than not making a hard corner it seems to do well on or off road. My tires are new and balanced so that I am sure contributes to the drivabilty. I had to drive it everyday for about three to four months last winter and other than the fact I have no defroster it did OK. So I guess what I am saying is if your steering is tight and your alignment is good your road manors are more than likely contributed to your tires. Good luck.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:36 PM   #616 (permalink)
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Drove home from work. No Shimmy. I think it was the grooved concrete on that one section of road that was making it noticeable....
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:48 PM   #617 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
I drove the Willys into work today....

I got one 'Thats badass' and one thumbs up at the gas station while I got my ice tea.

Overall it drove pretty nice. I have a slight shake in the steering wheel at 50-55? I think its probably the front tires being out of round, out of balance, or not having a steering stabilizer. You can still let go of the steering wheel and it tracks straight at 50+ ( the wheel just moves back and forth a bit? )

Think I should put a steering stabilizer on it?

Fun Fun
I run 35 krawlers on 15x10 steel beadlocks with aluminum rings that seem to balance well. I've had them up to 70 without wobble but it's a TJ and had a 93" wheelbase at the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Hey Jeds Machine makes an adapter for the Np435 that is less than 3" long. The total for the adapter and the tranny is less than 13".

I've been thinking of going that route with my doubler since rear driveshaft length is a concern. Im going to go Ax5 bellhousing/Np435/Ford Np203/Flipped Dana 300(or mabey a Stak replace-a-case). If I use the Jeds machine Np435 apapter I believe that I'll have enough room for the NWF Doubler kit and still have a rear shaft without having to shove the rear axle back too far..

Ive already got 2 of the 435's and i also scored one of the MYTHICAL Ford 203's but im having trouble finding a dang Dana 300.

Also the 435's shift fine, you just cant downshift into 1st too well cause its a spur gear. I had one in an 84 F150 with a 300 6cyl, if you double clutched and rev'd the engine to the right RPM then, and ONLY THEN, could you downshift to 1st. I will say that it's one of the only manual trannys that I havent tore up..
/hijack

After driving my TJ with AA adapted np435/d300 all week and building around the drivetrain you will have a hard time clocking the D300 flat enough for the shift rails to clear the trans housing in a flipped application. This is the reason I had to convert the D300 to rear shift. You actually *need* the space the adapter gives you. Ultimately you'd need to run the D300 as passenger drop or buy the Stak RAC if the adapter is very short. I'm still not sure if it would be possible to clock the D300 completely flat and still maintain a flat belly as well as a good front driveline angle. I'm LOW, on stock coils with a semi-blocked D300, flat belly, and my driveline is not as flat as I'd like up front.

I made a 2 piece shaft with carrier bearing but I have to find a way to keep the carrier bearing from moving under torque load. Or just redesign the clutch fork (which is in the way, so a regular CV shaft is a no go) for more clearance.

/hijack

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Old 06-24-2012, 08:19 PM   #618 (permalink)
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Correct. It's only 7/8" thick and has three clocking positions for the t-case. The main issue I found with it was that the factory twin stick D18 shift tower only works in the lowest position....

SM465 with the AA or Novak adapter is just about 13". My existing setup is only 10.9" long It a neat adapter system, but just too many issues being a one off full custom unit.

T18 with a factory length adapter also comes out to just about 13" long.
do you have a photo of your adapter?
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:27 PM   #619 (permalink)
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nervmind, found it on page one
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:44 AM   #620 (permalink)
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It's a VERY short one off adapter. The input gear is a welded fab unit. The front output and yoke is also a custom 1100 series contraption. All in all its very cool and different....but probably one of my mistakes in building. I should have just used something else.
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:20 PM   #621 (permalink)
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Awesome job
Makes me want to sell my YJ and find an old MB to build.
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Made a friend today.....





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Old 06-27-2012, 01:35 PM   #622 (permalink)
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Thank you.

While I enjoy that I got another life out of a somewhat used up original MB body and the patina is super cool....

If I was going to build another one I would just build another new frame and probably either call Aqualu and have them build me an 'improved' aluminum body or I would design and build one myself.

Taking what I learned with this build and rolling the concept over into a 'new' build would make the next one WAY better.

Having a lot of original patina and steel in it is still neat though!
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:19 AM   #623 (permalink)
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I'm going to edit the first post for reference.

I had a member contact me about using the set of aluminum pucks I made to align the side plates and bolt the rails together when trimming the frame down.

Sadly I couldn't find the original set, I think I ended up turning them down into other things....

So...I made another set, this time out of some aluminum hex stock. This set will be traveling to the member who asked for them. The idea is when he is done he will either mail them back to me or onto the next person that needs them.

If anyone has a touch of space to host the PDF file of the frame and the .dxf for the side plates that would be great....
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:36 AM   #624 (permalink)
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Mieser,
I'll post those up for you! Email to:
admin@scotthansen.net
Scott
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:46 AM   #625 (permalink)
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e-mail sent, thank you very much.

When the files are hosted I will update the first post with the locations or something....
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