Rango....1942 Willys MB - Page 7 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Willys
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-27-2011, 07:21 PM   #151 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
More pics....







Some preliminary thoughts....

-The area around the headlight needs to be reworked a bit to get the headlight to flip back down. It shouldn't be too hard. I will probably make the front of the fender around the headlight look like it did before.

-The headlight hold down screw needs to be redone/moved 2.75" down.

-The fender support needs to be extended 2.75" if you want to keep it bolted to the frame. Mine is hammered so I will probably be replacing it.

-The bottom edge of the fender needs extended to keep stuff out of the engine compartment and to close the gap up.

-The rear two bolt tab at the rear of the fender needs lowered 2.75". That could be built into the above modification also.

Measurements....well its lifted 2.75" from where it was. That should allow for a 5.5" larger tire with no suspension mods OTHER than the axle position needs to be moved forward or you will run out of clearance at the back of the fender. That is one of the reasons I moved my front axle forward in this build but kept the height low.

From the bottom of the front frame horn to the bottom edge of the fender is 17 1/8". If you add in another 1.5" if the axle tube was basically sitting on the frame at full stuff you end up 18.625" for a vertical tire radius! That doesn't take into account the axle articulation at full stuff on one side and droop on the other....but its still a lot of freaking room! This should be enough room for 36-37" tires no problem. I don't think the spring will be allowed to compress till the axle is touching the frame, it would be WAY negative arch at that point!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 07:36 PM   #152 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Little more....forgot some pics....



With the grill pushed forward and the bellview winch sunken and behind the bumper the clearance worked out just about perfect. The front end doesn't look long anymore to me at all. Its almost going to be a little tight on the back of the winch.





This is the headlight area that needs redone.



Another 1.38" adds some more clearance for a better cooling system down the road! It would also help for a v8 if you wanted to go that direction....



This is the gap at the lower rear edge of the fender that will need filled. I think they make patch panels for fenders that might work? I could also build some rocker guards that would have a step, cure some cancer, and cover this area with something a lot stronger....
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 10-27-2011, 08:08 PM   #153 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
This pic gives me thoughts.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2011, 09:20 AM   #154 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverTown View Post
This pic gives me thoughts.
Like?????? I need ideas just like the next guy!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2011, 12:47 PM   #155 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
Like?????? I need ideas just like the next guy!
The first thought I had was an Ultra 4 Mod class vehicle. You'd be able to keep it nice and low and allow extra room for a V8. Though you'd have to use part of the stock frame which hampers everything, plus there's no way I'd be able to afford it.

I think that I will definately use the idea. I'm still up in the air on engine choice for mine. I'm thinking 5.3 with the extra room instead of the planned 4.3. I was scheming last night about a 5.3/SM420/D18/offset hp Jana54's, warn od, 3 and 4 links, and 37's. Keeping the body mainly stock I think this would be one hell of a combo. You don't see to many lowrider flatties on 37's that aren't half buggy.

Last edited by BeaverTown; 10-28-2011 at 12:50 PM.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2011, 01:20 PM   #156 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverTown View Post
The first thought I had was an Ultra 4 Mod class vehicle. You'd be able to keep it nice and low and allow extra room for a V8. Though you'd have to use part of the stock frame which hampers everything, plus there's no way I'd be able to afford it.

I think that I will definately use the idea. I'm still up in the air on engine choice for mine. I'm thinking 5.3 with the extra room instead of the planned 4.3. I was scheming last night about a 5.3/SM420/D18/offset hp Jana54's, warn od, 3 and 4 links, and 37's. Keeping the body mainly stock I think this would be one hell of a combo. You don't see to many lowrider flatties on 37's that aren't half buggy.
The stock frame would work for the most part. It would need beefed up a LOT but could be made to work. If you didn't want leaf springs I think you could get the stock hangers to be in a decent place for the lower links even. The lower links would be about 20+" long give or take. They would sit just about flat at ride height.

Honestly I wouldn't use the SM420 with a D18 again, the front driveline is just too big an issue. I would do something like a t18. You can adapt those to just about anything, no driveshaft issues on the passenger side, etc. The off the shelf adapters for the D18/t18 combo is pretty short too.

I have a friend that is tossing around the idea of doing something similar with an older LS1. I think you would need the shorter non-truck intake and the shorter front accessories. The engine in my chassis is up HIGH. The bellhousing clearance become a headache, I moved my motor so it is 2.5" from the plane of the recessed dip in the firewall.

The radiator still isn't touching the grill though. I probably almost have 2" there. And I have about 3-4" between the water pump pulley and the radiator.

I think a v8 would be a tight fit though....especially shoved up high...especially with only a 1.38 front 'stretch'.

If I was going to build another one ( probably will someday ) I would do a 3.8 ford v6 with the low profile fuel injection that looks similar to a 5.0. Toss a c4 behind it. Then go with a manual valvebody so I could run the really short AA to 27-spline atlas style adapter. Then a D300 with a 27 spline input from JB conversions behind it. I don't know if I would go drivers or passenger drop, I think it would depend on what front axle I wanted to run. That combo would also be REALLY short. Don't forget if you run a centered rear output you would have to build a tunnel for the rear driveshaft!

I think if you did drivers drop you could shift the motor over to the passenger side and it could probably go back farther into the recess in the grill. I think having a high pinion front would be nice, but I just don't know if you could pull it off in a chassis set this low.

The jana54s sound nice. I have been been thinking about low pinion JK gears for my rear D44....or maybe making a D50 high pinion thing.

So many flat fender possibilities.....
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2011, 07:11 PM   #157 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
MMMMMMmmmmmm clearance.



I got the other front fender to the point it could bolt on and set the hood on. Now you can see the difference in height on the hood. Its 2.75" taller



Then I was like....why not cut the hood, you haven't had anything to drink yet. Mark a line at 2.75" from the bottom edge. Continue that back till the fender ends.



Get the angle of said fender with handy dandy angle finder thing....



Transfer angle to the hood....



Cut out with jigsaw. A bosch 32 tooth jig saw blade is my new favorite. They cut like BUTTER and don't get caught up at all. I drilled a hole at the angle change so it would be a nice round inside corner.



It look like this when you get done.....very exciting. Repeat on the other side.



When its cut and set on it looks like this. Its still far from 'done' but you get the idea. I will probably spend the rest of the weekend and then some doing all the little stuff like stretching the back of the hood 1.38", welding in a 3/16" rod on the hood cuts, and making the headlight mod to the front of the fenders......

If I get most of that done, or get stuck I will be moving onto the rear wheel tubs. Stay tuned!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2011, 08:19 PM   #158 (permalink)
Web wheeler
 
gtxracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25303
Location: olyWA
Posts: 4,092
I love highlines, especially on flatties
__________________
97 TJ 4.0/np435/d300/3link/4link finished, 1 tons coming soon
98 24v Cummins 50mpg towing 17k uphill


Ultimate Wrangler Build Ups and Swaps Thread
Builds, Swaps, Axles, Engines, Turbos, Diesels, Suspensions, Fab, and more!
gtxracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:25 AM   #159 (permalink)
Registered User
 
jalbrecht42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52989
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 842
Looking good! Let's see a side pic, maybe with your old michelins mocked up next to it . (But don't spend too much time staring at it, I want to see this rear highline come together).
__________________
'47 Willys CJ-2A -- www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690670
jalbrecht42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:20 PM   #160 (permalink)
APU
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37668
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 211
you are making great progress. i love the high line fenders. and an old belview slung in there is tits. i'm still searching for one for my jeep.
APU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:32 PM   #161 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 25964
Posts: 495
Looking nice. I'm following this build of yours.
lebowski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 04:38 PM   #162 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
The little time consuming stuff....



This is the new headlight 'bucket' in the fender. When you raise the fender you headlight won't fit so you have to remake the front 6.5" of the fender at bit.





It was generally a pain, but came out well. My free sheetmetal brake and the edge of the table and a hammer sure came in handy! This is a little complex part for sure. it dead ends into an area of the fender around the factory battery box. That tapered cut with a tab at the end was pretty challenging.





That might help some people trying to duplicate my work. I can't really tell you all the bend angles and stuff. Most of it I just go by eye and test fit it till I get it right. The nice thing about metal is that you can generally play with it for a while without hurting much.





This isn't rocket science. I guess its almost more art. Most of the time I just wing it. If your free brake won't make a small flange close to a bend....just use the edge of the table, some scrap, a few clamps, a crescent wrench to get it started, and finally a dead blow hammer to finish it off.

If your going to spot weld the flanges drill the holes for that BEFORE you make a super complex bend.



I did the other fender also, it was much easier so far. I also extended the bottom tab to grab the first bolt on the grill. I need to add some metal to the first fender to do this same thing.



This was a total PIA. Its not my best work, but it seals up the fender and makes the structure that more rigid. This little piece took forever to get half way decent to weld in! This pretty much wore me out for the evening. I might go back out and do a similar ( simpler ) piece for the drives side later.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 04:43 PM   #163 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbrecht42 View Post
Looking good! Let's see a side pic, maybe with your old michelins mocked up next to it . (But don't spend too much time staring at it, I want to see this rear highline come together).
I only have one left for a spare on the dodge....



38-38.5" tall as it sits.





A bit too big, but gives you a pretty good idea how small a flat fender really is!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2011, 05:07 PM   #164 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Time for more little stuff...



I patched the drivers side headlight bucket. This little panel turned out much cleaner as the other side. I am still always learning how to do all this stuff.



I prepped the back of the hood for the stretch and new hinge. A twisted wire brush and a light touch makes fast work of it. The plan is to extend the hood 1.38" and then move the support back while adding a new hinge. I am waiting for my fancy new spot weld cutter to show up.....



I have plenty of spot welds to cut out.....



To finish off the day I started planning out the rear tub modifications. The rear tubs are going to get lifted similar to the front. This will provide more room for larger tires at a lower lift height. Nothing is really perfectly straight on this old tub, but having a big straight edge to work from helps.....



Here is the rough plan for the rear tubs. The main 'top' of the tub is going be be raised 2.63". I will be keeping the front of the tub at the same angle/slope so the tub would try and move back, just like the front fenders pushed the grill forward slightly. The top of the tub needs 2.13" removed from the top to keep the toolbox in the same location.



This taped section on top of the tub needs removed. This will allow the front of the tub to have the same slope...making the top shorter.



Since the tub is moving up 2.63" the front of the tub needs a 3.25" stretch to make up the different. Instead of going flat across the front of the tub I will be putting in a 'Z' cut so that the longitudinal line is longer than the 3.25" needed. This way there will be an part of the tub that overlaps. This will give me a place to clamp the panels together and give a reference or home location to work from...



Here is my high tech mock up 'tire' A 36-37" tire is about all you can fit in a Willys tub and it's going to be TIGHT. I don't want to comp cut, and I want to run a BIG tire with almost no lift.....



This is the area that is a big problem, the original Willys MB/GPW rear tool boxes on the wheel tub. They take up a lot of room. The are really cool though and I want to keep them. I hopefully have a neat trick up my sleeve on how to keep the tool boxes with bigger tires. Moving them up with the tub won't give you enough room alone.....

I started the process of removing the paint so I could find the spot welds that needed removed.....

More as soon as I get my spot weld cutter in the mail!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2011, 05:07 PM   #165 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Forgot a pic....




Hunting for the spot welds....
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 06:44 AM   #166 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 146844
Posts: 226
Way to go bro! you got mad skills, cant wait to see it on all fours!
sail78385 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 07:13 AM   #167 (permalink)
old school idiot
 
wilez5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86194
Location: in the weeds near Hammer Town
Posts: 783
i have found that dimpling the spot weld with an 1/8" drill gives the cutter point something to hold it in place
__________________
USN 2x Viet Nam Vet.
member Victor Valley 4 Wheelers hammer road build crew
42willys 109" rock dog with some stuff
51 willys 106" with some fast stuff
retired wheeler
wilez5150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 08:01 AM   #168 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilez5150 View Post
i have found that dimpling the spot weld with an 1/8" drill gives the cutter point something to hold it in place
Good tip, thanks! I will give that a try. I sure have LOTS of spot welds to cut out, that is for sure!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 07:26 PM   #169 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Not too much to report on tonight....



I added the 4" section to the passenger side to match the drives side. I wish I would have thought to do it from the start, but live and learn. This will allow me to grab the lowest bolt on the grill. I will also be adding a bolt on the top near the very top, this should make everything nice and strong!



I was just about to cut up the old headlight mounts and then realized if I swapped them side to side they clear unmodified! I will have to build a little bit of a funky bracket for the hold down either off the radiator mount or maybe the future front shock mount, but it should be a lot easier than trying to make a new bracket AND mount.



I had some poster board laying around so I decided to see if I could make a pattern for the hood extension piece. Since the poster board doesn't really 'stretch' it works well to develop a template on a complex curve like that. You can work the poster board down smooth to the surface to extend the taper of the hood. A little bit of marking and tape and I was ready to go.



Here you can see the funky shape at the end of the hood since its tapered. Now I need to cut this out of sheet metal and weld it to the back edge. I am thinking that the thicker 16 gauge I am using is almost as thick as the hood and hood support at the edge. I may just add the 16 gauge to the back edge and then weld in the new hinge further back. This would sure save a LOT of tedious work on the back edge of the hood.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 10:53 AM   #170 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
I just ordered my springs. Superlift 1" lift REAR springs for all 4 corners. They showed in stock so hopefully they will show up soon. I was going to order seats but I think this will get me further in the project sooner. With the springs I can.....

-Build the u-bolt plates and get u-bolts
-Roll the axles under on the old 32s to get it rolling again
-Bolt up the rear full float spindles/hubs
-find out the rough ride height
-Figure out the shackle length and build shackles and mounts
-Come up with the final shock locations, lengths, and build mounts
-Get the steering box mounted up and linkage built
-etc etc.

It will be nice to have it rolling around again!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 01:10 PM   #171 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Member # 138167
Location: Stockton, CA
Posts: 1,635
Are you still going to do the cantilever set up on the shocks?
__________________
Jeepspeed 1749 (1719 2008 Baja 1K)
:tank:
[url]www.dirt-fab.com[/url]
e-mail: [email]info@dirt-fab.com[/email]
Phone: 510-502-8508
Dirt-Fab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 02:17 PM   #172 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
I just don't know. Ordering the springs and getting the axles under it will allow me to see how much room I really have. Cardboard and CAD only go so far. With the low ride height there just isn't that much room if you don't want to poke the shocks up through the floor or lean them WAY over.

I moved the rear axle back enough that the factory MB shock mount 'mini-tub' pocket is now pretty much directly over the axle tube. I'm pretty sure being SUA with low height springs the rear axle is just about going to touch the frame on compression, it will be close for sure.

Building a shock mount outside the frame in a somewhat normal position with the narrow axles and big tires without making new shock 'pockets' in the rear tubs ( or running then through the rear floor ).

I feel stuck trying to fit about a 9-10" travel shock system under the floor. It would be nice if it didn't hang way down and get stuck every 5 seconds on the rocks. If I am going to the trouble of running decent shocks I want them to at least work fairly well. I would like to get close to a 1:1 motion ratio with the shock leverage point being as close to the tire as I can get.

We will see, I only have so much time and money for this project. Any ideas would be appreciated.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 04:34 PM   #173 (permalink)
old school idiot
 
wilez5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86194
Location: in the weeds near Hammer Town
Posts: 783
my shocks angle forward up into the corner above the frame where the bed and the riser from the tub floor meet. with about a 15* angle i get about 14" of travel out of a 10" shock, my shocks don't hang below the axle either. if angle shocks are good for OEM's its good for me. i use rancho rs5000 shocks. 10" on the rear an 14" on the front. pulls 1100 on a 25* ramp. i use pro comp 3" yj springs because i break an average of 2 mains a year because of the twist. i tried alcans @ 850 a set and they didn't last any better than the cheap ones. in all the changes this jeep has gone thru in almost 30yrs the best one in my mind was ditching the 1 3/4" stock style springs. i been bending tin for a long time an i learn something new every time i do some. your doing nice work
__________________
USN 2x Viet Nam Vet.
member Victor Valley 4 Wheelers hammer road build crew
42willys 109" rock dog with some stuff
51 willys 106" with some fast stuff
retired wheeler
wilez5150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 06:21 PM   #174 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
If I mounted the shocks forward to the top of the tub floor riser they would be at about a 45 degree angle with only 1" lift if I am thinking of the same spot.

I don't need 14" of travel in this little guy, 10" at the tire would be more than enough.

The narrow springs are here to stay for a bit. They didn't bust in the 1st 70 years so I think it will be ok. I am not going to be pushing them THAT hard really.

I'm planning 10" travel shocks front and rear if I can get away with it.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2011, 08:07 AM   #175 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 6,699
Oh the little stuff....how fun....



I cut the hood extension and started lining it up on the back of the hood. I didn't make the cut out on the back for the hinge yet. I wanted to wait to test fit that to the hinge when I get it in a few days....



Tack, bend, tack, tack, tack, bend, grind, tack, bend, tack, tack, tack....

The back edge turned out pretty good. I wire brushed the old hood metal a LOT and still got some dirty welds. I went into place pretty well though.



Then tack,tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack.......

Then I sanded it down and played with some of the high spots with a hammer and dolly. It turned out pretty decent for bare metal. A light skim coat of filler should cover it up, or I might just prime and paint it for the rugged prototype look.....
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s

Last edited by Mieser; 11-02-2011 at 08:08 AM.
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.