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Old 11-11-2011, 01:00 PM   #201 (permalink)
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I have tried the magnets in the past. They never seemed to be able to pull panels up or down as well as I would have liked. The metal on this old body is not the perfectly flat. The clamps seem to be able to make multiple edges meet up better to me? They are not the fastest thing, and its fun when they get a little stuck after you tack weld, but generally I am able to make one of these small panels and get it tacked in place after about 30-45 minutes or so...

I think the low rider thing is going to be cool....not too many flat fenders on 36s that are only going to be 66" tall or so....
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:17 PM   #202 (permalink)
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mine turned out to be 72 or 73 in with 25" at the skid plate on 39.5 iroc's. it is what it is, a buggy wrapped in flattie skin. yours will look like a flattie and leave people scratching their heads thinking somethings different here.
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:48 PM   #203 (permalink)
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Ok.....I am getting a little sick of sheet metal mods...who's idea was this again??!?!?!?!



I got another patch panel tacked in....this one turned out pretty decent.



I used some aluminum stock to help space the wheel tub in the proper place as I pulled it into place tight with a clamp. This jeep isn't perfectly straight and neither are the mods to all the metal, but they are close enough for me and this old thing.



I welded in the tops of the relocated tubs, welded up some holes I didn't need, and used a flap disc to take everything close to flat again....



The inside of the tool box is now a triangle shape without a flat bottom like before. They are still going to have a decent amount of room for a bit of gear. I am glad I decided to keep them....



I also welded up most of the seams on all the panels and tool them down a little bit. I am probably going to leave then a little rough and proud looking so that people will be able to tell what I did if they are looking. I will eventually spray everything in primer and lots of olive drab paint.

I still have a bit more work to do on this tub, but its structural now. I need to add the small patch panel at the back and tack down the rear edge on the 'tailgate' brace.

That leaves me the other side to do still. I'm not complaining really, but I am ready for these major sheet metal modifications to be 'done' for the most part. The rear tubs are VERY time consuming. If I was going to do it again I would give serious thought to just ordering an Aqualu aluminum flat fender tub with most of the body modifications I wanted already done! Its going to be original and pretty cool when its done, but dang, why do I think up these crazy ideas again......
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:07 PM   #204 (permalink)
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Hey man you should Monsta line the inside of the tub. It comes in OD Green(and other colors) and it fills in "rough" spots pretty well too. I had to weld some new "floor" in my Tj and you cant even tell after rolling the bed liner over it.


BTW-Im really diggin this little project.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:06 AM   #205 (permalink)
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Great work Mieser!
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:22 AM   #206 (permalink)
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Please tell me you're going to have it sandblasted prior to paint. You've put way to much work into it not too.
I put a piece of 3/4" Unistrut at the top of my back panel inside just in case i want to bolt something, and for strength. It has proven the test of time, and gives me a place to strap a bungy too. Just an idea.
lookin good!
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:13 AM   #207 (permalink)
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mieser--remember it's all progress no matter how boring and tedious things are, but of course you know that--I also really like what you're doing---

mr willys--I like that uni-strut tip....

chris
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:09 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Hey man you should Monsta line the inside of the tub. It comes in OD Green(and other colors) and it fills in "rough" spots pretty well too. I had to weld some new "floor" in my Tj and you cant even tell after rolling the bed liner over it.


BTW-Im really diggin this little project.
I have an aversion to bedliner these days. My dodge came coated with the stuff on the outside and when I went to mod the body I swore the bedliner so much I really never wanted to see that stuff again.

I honestly don't care about a weld seam here or there. I think it adds to the character of this old thing. The body is NOT straight and NOT perfect. There are dents and lots of holes for the 70+ years this thing has been around. I would like to keep it functional and will weld up most of the holes as I go. I don't plan on making this things straight and shiny. I will lather everything in primer and paint to keep the rust at bay....but other than that its going to have that well 'used' look about it.
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:15 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Please tell me you're going to have it sandblasted prior to paint. You've put way to much work into it not too.
I put a piece of 3/4" Unistrut at the top of my back panel inside just in case i want to bolt something, and for strength. It has proven the test of time, and gives me a place to strap a bungy too. Just an idea.
lookin good!
I have thought about getting the tub blasted, but I am pretty worried it will just destroy it if the blasters where not careful. That would be a total shame.

As I mentioned before, this is NOT going to be a perfectly straight parking lot queen of a vehicle. It's suppose to looked used and abused. I want it to look like it is 70+ years old. It will get lots of primer and drab paint to keep the rust away, but its never going to be perfectly smooth again. The body is just too far gone for that. If I wanted to do something like that I would just start with a reproduction tub and modify that. This project is suppose to be about building something cool and unique that wasn't too expensive so I can get my lazy butt back out on the trail and having some adventures....
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #210 (permalink)
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Wow, you have incredible skills and paitence.....

I could never do all that sheetmetal work.

BTW, Great build!!!!
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:03 AM   #211 (permalink)
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Wow, you have incredible skills and paitence.....

I could never do all that sheetmetal work.

BTW, Great build!!!!
Thanks, my sheetmetal work isn't the best at all, but the ideas are pretty cool I think. I don't care if it doesn't turn out perfect. I just want something that will be functional and original. I also really dig modifications that people don't catch right away like moving up the factory rear tubs, reshaped tool boxes, highline front fenders, little bit of wheelbase stretch, silly low, etc. Then do it all on a realistic budget with realistic parts that don't require checkbook racing.

My overall vision for this little guy is basically a patina'd olive drab, slightly straighter, Willy's version of something like Tim Hardy's red Samurai...

Sorry no update really. I have just been working on the other rear tub. I will be REALLY happy when I can stop doing sheet metal for a bit.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:04 PM   #212 (permalink)
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My overall vision for this little guy is basically a patina'd olive drab, slightly straighter, Willy's version of something like Tim Hardy's red Samurai...
And this shows the reason the build is great.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Well, still suck in sheetmetal hell. I probably have another 2-3 nights on the other rear tub before its all done. Those things take forever! I did make these tonight after work since a co-worker had to use one of the mills after hours. It good to have these finished for now....



These are a spacer/adapter for the rear D44 full float conversion They let you use a regular off the shelf front spindle on the rear. You do NOT have to turn the spindle down to fit in the bearing pocket on the D44 with these. They also make the rear axle 3" wider to match the D30 narrow track front.

I will probably be running a set of Yukon Dana 30 spindles that have the larger bore for a 30 spline outer. I hope this will let me pass a 30 spline flanged floater axle through the spindle. I am going try and get a set of flanged rear axles made. This should make the rear axle like a mini-version of your standard D60 3/4 ton full floater. I hope running flanged floater axles in the rear should be the strongest D44 full float possible.

In the future a bit I plan on building a high pinion D44 housing with D50 gears in it. I will be able to use all the floater parts I think....and just eliminate the spacers and make my own axle ends....
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:20 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Well, still suck in sheetmetal hell. I probably have another 2-3 nights on the other rear tub before its all done. Those things take forever! I did make these tonight after work since a co-worker had to use one of the mills after hours. It good to have these finished for now....



These are a spacer/adapter for the rear D44 full float conversion They let you use a regular off the shelf front spindle on the rear. You do NOT have to turn the spindle down to fit in the bearing pocket on the D44 with these. They also make the rear axle 3" wider to match the D30 narrow track front.

I will probably be running a set of Yukon Dana 30 spindles that have the larger bore for a 30 spline outer. I hope this will let me pass a 30 spline flanged floater axle through the spindle. I am going try and get a set of flanged rear axles made. This should make the rear axle like a mini-version of your standard D60 3/4 ton full floater. I hope running flanged floater axles in the rear should be the strongest D44 full float possible.

In the future a bit I plan on building a high pinion D44 housing with D50 gears in it. I will be able to use all the floater parts I think....and just eliminate the spacers and make my own axle ends....
This is an awesome idea!
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:39 PM   #215 (permalink)
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SHHHHHHH!!!!! don't tell anyone
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:53 AM   #216 (permalink)
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Micro update....

I am still stuck in sheetmetal hell. I got the pass rear tub mostly tacked together last night. I still need to get the small panels made and weld up the entire thing...fun fun.

While I was swearing at the sheet metal last night I let the bandsaw run and cut all the angle iron I need to make a set of high clearance u-bolt plates.

Tonight I can cut the bottom plates and will keep working on the tub. I think I will be done with sheetmetal this week....then its time to get the axles rolled under!
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:36 PM   #217 (permalink)
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FINALLY! The other rear tub is together!



I still need to do the final welding, but at least all the panels are made and tacked in place. Of course, this one turned out a little cleaner/better than the 1st side. This usually happens when I try something new....1st side is learning, 2nd side goes better.

I need to attack the seams with a wire wheel before I weld them all up. I find using a heavy wire wheel AFTER the seams are tack welded together helps with some final welding.

The bandsaw was busy tonight also. I got the final parts cut for the u-bolt plates also. Now I just need to make a few drill templates and a jig to weld everything up. My 4th spring showed up today finally too. My u-bolt order shipped yesterday too! Hopefully I can get the axles under the jeep soon!
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:44 AM   #218 (permalink)
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I really like seeing all of the extra holes in the tub. I can just imagine all of the "must have" equipment that has been bolted in there over the years. The stories these old jeeps could tell!
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:23 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Yeah....it would sure have stories to tell! As far as I know it was a USMC version that had the fording kit at some point along with being radio equipped also. It has the hole for the belt drive power unit in the tunnel, hole for the speaker in the glove box, etc.

When I found it there was a LOT of misc stuff. It had a worn out soft top on it, a heater thing in the back, a big basket on the rear of the tub, a fuel can mount in the rear corner of the tub, etc, etc.

I found this pic from the day I brought it home in november of 2002....



oh how it has changed......
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:27 AM   #220 (permalink)
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Lookin good! Sick build bud.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:30 AM   #221 (permalink)
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Yeah....it would sure have stories to tell! As far as I know it was a USMC version that had the fording kit at some point along with being radio equipped also. It has the hole for the belt drive power unit in the tunnel, hole for the speaker in the glove box, etc.

When I found it there was a LOT of misc stuff. It had a worn out soft top on it, a heater thing in the back, a big basket on the rear of the tub, a fuel can mount in the rear corner of the tub, etc, etc.

I found this pic from the day I brought it home in november of 2002....



oh how it has changed......

looking at that plate? did you buy it in MT?

looks really good! your patience with all that metal work is amazing.

:sneaksbackovertotoyotaforum:
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:46 AM   #222 (permalink)
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yup, I bought it near Victor, Montana

Thanks for the compliments guys. I like the cool sheetmetal mods, but on the other hand I am NOT trying to make them all show quality or anything. I don't have THAT much patience...or time! The concept of the highline flat fender did turn out pretty neat so far though. All the mods are fairly small but add up to something kinda original. I got the idea for the front fenders from the original MLW-2 concept jeep. I think mine is close to what they did based on the pictures I could find. In reality I think the fenders match up to the grill better where I ended up putting them. The hood is a little 'off' from the original flat fender look, but I still like it.

When the fenders moved up and the grill got pushed forward it covered the front frame better than I could have hoped. With the old Bellview winch in behind the front 2" thick bumper there really isn't any 'extra' space between the grill and the winch. There is only 1" or so. It looks really factory.

The shackle mounts on the front of the frame also should end up just on the end of the front frame bumper. That seems to be working out better than I could have hoped. Using the longer 42" rear springs up front should allow for a little more flex, but still keep things tucked in and tight. With a 36+" tire there should only be about 3" of spring sticking out past the tire. This should make for a pretty good approach angle without getting carried away. The departure angle should be a mirror of the front.

I still need to figure out how big of an opening and what kind of shape I want to use on the rear of the tub. I'm NOT comp cutting it and want it to look fairly stock. I really don't think I can fold a stock like lip in the fender. I will probably just weld in some small round stock like I did on the hood edge.

I think the sheetmetal mods are cool though. Not many people take the time to do something different like that anymore. Its all tube and 40 spline Dana 60 go fast these days

I just wanted to build something fun and cool.....I'm stoked to get it done enough to drive around again!
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:09 AM   #223 (permalink)
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I still need to figure out how big of an opening and what kind of shape I want to use on the rear of the tub. I'm NOT comp cutting it and want it to look fairly stock. I really don't think I can fold a stock like lip in the fender. I will probably just weld in some small round stock like I did on the hood edge.
If you can find some pictures of Rick Pw's old GPW he had a pretty good idea... or rather I think his tires did anyway... The front of the rear wheel openings remained stockish, where as the rear of them kinda arched from the top of the opening to the rear of the tub.

Edit: you can see what I'm talking about starting to happen in this pic from when his GPW was somewhat straight still: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/95707...+side_view.jpg
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:21 AM   #224 (permalink)
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That is some good inspiration for sure!

My wheel opening needs to be a little 'taller I think. I am probably going to try and develop a datum type position somewhere XX" back from some point on the tub and XX" down from the bottom of the tub. Then try a few different radii and see what one works and looks best. I need to do a little measuring and see how much difference there is in the distance from the ground to the fender lip front and back. Keeping that proportion similar with my 2.75" raised front fenders should make everything look more 'correct'

It is interesting on the Pewe GPW that his fender opening is so large. I am kinda wondering if he did anything to the factory tool box? I swear mine didn't have that much room stock....
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:13 PM   #225 (permalink)
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Good Gawd I love Pewe's GPW. Many years ago I dreamed that I was at EJS and saw it on a trailer with a For Sale sign for $800. In the dream I had a vicious fight with my wife where I demanded that we skip the house payment so I could buy the Jeep.

I would still skip my house payment to buy that thing.

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