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Old 04-02-2012, 10:16 PM   #101 (permalink)
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elarsen---so are you checking the pinion preload with the diff in or out??? I'm thinking it's out, which means I'm ok, but I'm just kind of confused on why Billa didn't say so in his tech write up and I want to be sure before I button it up.

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Old 04-02-2012, 11:39 PM   #102 (permalink)
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I pull the diff out to check it. I was just thinking out loud about why BillaVista would mention it twice. All of his write ups have helped me a bunch over the years.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:18 AM   #103 (permalink)
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not sure why he mentions it twice, but he does---

thanks for confirming this bit of info for me--chris
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:59 AM   #104 (permalink)
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one thing to add, is DON'T forget to put the orings in the ARB copper tube thing(don't recall exactly what it's called) that slides onto the carrier before your final carrier installation--don't ask why I'm stating this......chris
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:54 AM   #105 (permalink)
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got the axle back under the jeep, now I'm waiting for spindles(as the original ones look like they been ballpeened hammered to death), spindle stone guard and seals, stage 8 fasteners, trail gear hydro steering and other misc parts to continue with my saga---

I also started pushing exhaust pieced around under the rig to see how I can route the exhaust---man is it tight, even with a 3.5" body lift, but I think I've got it mapped out as long as I can get flex joints in the system(need to order that) it should be good to go----

then it's brake lines and finish a couple of wiring tidbits and I think it will be time to fire her up, but that is all still some time away...chris
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:15 PM   #106 (permalink)
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I bought some 4340 axle shafts a while back for the front dana 60 and the other day I went to slide them in and wham they wouldn't go in. So I'm like what the 'ell is going on here, do I have the wrong seals in there, so I go online and double check and they're the right ones. It looks like they'll slide past the knuckle, so I'm like what is going on here???? Well I decide I'm going to grind a little off the ears and finally after a few attempts they slide in. Wow was I glad that hurdle was cleared.

Now there's the stone guard, a seal, a thrust washer that get installed on the stub shaft and a spindle seal and the spindle bearing that get installed in the spindle--they are installed in a specific way and here's a link on how they should be installed----

I've since found that post #2 is wrong in the link below from my previous post and shows the thrust washer is backwards, so it will need to be turned around, look at post #4--mine was plastic and it has a concave section on one side, that side goes toward the stone guard side and not the spindle side. Again like post #4:


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...03#post6188955


also a couple posts back I posted about the oring's that needed to be installed for the ARB and I couldn't remember exactly what the part was exactly called--it's the seal housing that needs the orings---

I bought my trail-gear hydro set up from Addicted Offroad and Scotty is a great guy to deal with and I couldn't find better pricing anywhere, so if you're in the market for trail gear stuff I'd definitely call him---shameless plug I know, but the guy is top notch...plus I ordered on Tues and it was here today, unfortunately my Arctec high steer arms won't be here until next week, so I'm not going to get much done on the steering as I hoped this weekend---

One of my biggest issues will be the steering pump reservoir/filter location and I think due to the TG reservoir/filter size and that I have hydroboost I'll probably get the PSC reservoir/filter that has the hydroboost port---

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motors...th-filter.html

I may have to redo my grill, as I've got it tilted to make the fan fit and the hood fit, to be able to install the reservoir filter--this may mean I'll have to stretch the hood, but we'll see when I get the PSC reservoir filter, but I'm pretty sure I have some modifying coming my way.

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Old 04-26-2012, 10:13 AM   #107 (permalink)
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got the ARCTEC arms, very nice pcs, and swapped out the Ballistic Fab arms for the new ARCTEC arms. NOTE: drill out knuckle hole to 3/4" before putting on ARCTEC arms--yes I'll have to now drill out the knuckle from the bottom or I was thinking I may run a 3/4" tap down thru the hole, that way if the nut ever comes off it will still have some locking power---anyone have a comment on that???? Anyway I'll be now fighting the mounting of the ram, unless I can bribe my youngest son to come help me, looks like this may cost me something, cuz god only knows what that kid is going to hold over my head!!!!!

Ordered the PSC hydroboost reservoir/filter cuz as I noted earlier there's no way to fit the Trail Gear reservoir filter without moving the grill way more than I want.

I need to swap out the pulley on the TG power steering pump and I had bought an explorer pump off of ebay, but I'm not 100% sure it's a 5.0 pump, cuz the pulley has 3 bolts that mount to an adapter that's pressed onto the shaft and my Wildhorse's pump(rated for 2.5-4.5 gal @ 1600psi) I bought is what I call a standard pulley that presses on and off the pump shaft, as is the TG pump. TG doesn't offer a pulley in 6 rib configuration and their pump is 1650psi @ 4.5gal. So I can't use the pulley off the ebay pump, which was what I had hoped to do and then I'd send the WildHorses pump back. So I either pull the pulley off the Wildhorse's pump and put it on the TG pump and keep the WH pump as a spare, eventhough the specs don't exactly = TG's, they're close, but the 2.5-4.5 gal thing has me wondering. I'll call them to find out and report back.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:36 PM   #108 (permalink)
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ok, what a pain in the ass to try and remove the pulley from the TG power steering pump--first off they red loctite the center bolt in(which the bolt isn't really needed for anything, but they put it in to plug the hole). I tried to remove it by hand first and that didn't even budge the thing, then I hit the allen wrench with a hammer or tried to, but that didn't work either, so then I pull out the battery operated DeWalt impact gun and that took two batteries before it finally came off--it loosened it about a 1/4 turn and then did nothing until I decided to tighten it back up and then loosen it---that finally did it---took me 20-30 minutes to get the bolt out---

then came time to pull the pulley off and again what a pain--my puller wouldn't stay on the stinking pulley, finally I had to turn the clamp part of the pulley over and beat it on the pulley groove and then I had to beat the keeper ring over the clamp and once I did that I got the pulley off, but again this took me a good 30 minutes ---freakin crazy.

now I can see the shaft of the Trail Gear TC pump and it's a smaller size than the WildHorses shaft(.75 I'm guessing as the bore hole in the pulley was like .735/.74)---great now I can't even use the pulley off the WH pump to swap on the TG pump. You may say why didn't you just measure the bore hole of the TG pump, well TG must have this thing made, because it's machined to have the pump shaft fit in one side and on the other side it's only bored for the center bolt hole. I also called TG earlier today and they didn't know the shaft size and couldn't go measure it for me, cuz they were short handed. I'm amazed they didn't know the shaft size. And of course after I get the damn thing off and get it measured it's .660 and then come upstairs to see if I can find a 6 rib pulley to fit it and I find the .660 measurement for TG TC pumps while searching. Of course earlier today when I was searching I couldn't find squat. Just my luck!!!!

Now I've searched for a 6 rib pulley with a bore size of .660, but of course I'm having difficulty finding the bore dimensions on 6 rib pulleys. AAARRRRRGGGGHHHHH, but I'll keep at it. Ond good thing was I almost ordered a pulley from WH, but it was back ordered, so I decided to wait and good thing otherwise I'd have a pulley I couldn't use.

Also the outside diameter of the TG pulley is 4 3/4" and the WH pulley is 5 7/16"/5 1/2".

I also talked to WH to ask them if their pump would run a full hydrualic system and they said they thought it would, but then I asked them about the gpm ratings, but they didn't have a real solid answer about the 2.4-4.5 rate other than that maybe engine rpm's played a role in the fluctuation. I don't think that's good for a full hydro system when crawling. So if I can't find a pulley for the the TG pump I'll be forced to use the WH pump or try and figure a way to adapt TG pump to the 6 rib serpentine system---fun, fun, fun in my future unless I can find a PSC pump to work which will be a call I make on Monday.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:24 AM   #109 (permalink)
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ok, I was hoping that the TG ram mount would work, but it won't, as it's set up for toyota axles. I had a feeling that it would be pure luck if it worked, but it won't for a dana 60. So since I don't have any more tube left I've gone ahead and ordered the ARTEC ram mount and am hoping I'll have it for next weekend.

I got the orbital mount welded in and the steering shaft all worked out, except I need that one bolt that's used to clamp the shaft to the end of the steering column. Also with the TG hydro kit you have a choice of splined(toyota spline only) column that bolts to the orbital or a weld on style with a 3/4" shaft. I had a splined to D steering u-joint in my coffers so I drilled out the splined side and welded it onto the column. I also supported the D shaft(which is 3/4" on its widest sides) with a 3/4" heim and tube end welded to the top of my frame.

Now here's something that has me stumped. On the axle shaft u-joint if the joint is in a certain position in full lock turn it binds up. I see where Branik machines them for more turn radius. I did a search to see what the standard length of tie rod is for a 1985 Ford Dana 60 and didn't find anything stating length, so I have two lengths I can work with 56" or 57 3/8" per my measuring. The 56" length will result in no bind, but gives less of a turning radius. I will get bind with the 57 3/8" length. Only way to get around this is to duplicate what Branik does or send them the shafts or buy RCV shafts or buy Branik's shafts already prepped. RCV shafts are $2200 buckaroos!!!!!!, so that's not going to happen. Branik's cost to machine them is $300 plus shipping, so probably $400 when it's all said and done or buy Branik's shafts for $750 + shipping(not sure if these have been prepped or not as it doesn't say either way on their website) or I grind them myself(which doesn't intrigue me at the moment, as I need this thing on the road). So I'm going to go with 56"(unless my ARTEC mount is two weeks out then maybe I'll pull them and start wacking away). So also with the 56" length there's no stop, or I should say the only stop will be the front side stop on one side only of the REID knuckles, instead of a front side stop on one side and rear side stop on the other. So until I get the ram mounted and my rig started I won't know if I have to internally stop the ram, put an external spacer on each ram shaft to act as a stop(seems the easiest) or build some sort of stop for the rear of the REID knuckles.

My next obstacle is which cooler to run with the hydro system. I have the one that came with the TG system that mounts in front of the radiator or I have a PSC log style. I'll have to make that corporate decision once I start routing hoses, but I think I like the PSC one better. It can mount right behind the winch, but again the plumbing may kill that as I may not be able to get it centered and I'm not sure I'd it not being centered. The TG one mounted on the grill isn't a picture I like at the moment, but function may win out here and that will be where it goes. I may run both, more fluid can't be a bad thing.

I will of course report back once I have this all figured out.

I also have or am going to decided to not use the cable that is on my winch as the fairlead for cable means I have to space the whole mount 1" above my frame and bumper and I really don't want to do that. So winch rope is in my future at the moment, but I may change my mind if I decide I don't want to outlay the cash for rope. But I'm thinking weight & looks will win out here.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:59 PM   #110 (permalink)
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I found the old tie rod in my pile of old parts and metal and it measures 56" center to center of the TRE's, so that's the measurement I'm going with unless I pull the axles and grind on them, but I'm thinking that I won't do that as it looks like the Artec mount will be here thursday, but we'll see how I feel tomorrow after work.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:48 PM   #111 (permalink)
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PSC had a 6 rib pulley that fits the .660 shaft of the TG pump, so I ordered it--I may have to do some modification to the ford explorer mount to make it work, but we'll cross that bridge when it gets here....
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:12 PM   #112 (permalink)
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ARTEC came thru and I received the ram mount today--I had to chase down the UPS guy to get it though, but no big deal I know where they meet at 5pm---

here's a link to the mount:

http://artecindustries.3dcartstores....NLY_p_272.html

it has a removable plate at the pumpkin---this will need to be modified due to the TRAIL GEAR ram mounting points....

first off the ARTEC ram mount, isn't set up for the TRAIL GEAR ram I have, as the ram has 4 clamps vs 2, so I'll have to do some modifications---

so I'm thinking I'll do this to mount the ram--I split a pc of 1.5" dom in half, so that I can weld the Trail Gear mounting plates to it and then weld the whole thing to the ARTEC part--I'll probably add some side plates to the mounting plates, so that I can get more welding surface points.....

I'm not quite sure how I'll place the gussets, but they may be close to how I have them in the last pic, but we shall see.

Hopefully this weekend I'll have it in. I do have to either remove my panhard mount or modify the end of the ARTEC mount to butt into it. On one hand the mount won't work where it's at, but I may be able use it and here's why. I think I'm going to mount the axle panhard out on the front of the ARTEC mount and then I can use the existing axle mount as an assisting mount point for the new mount location, but I've got some thinking to do on that.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:11 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Ok I've been in my garage 6hrs yesterday and 14hrs today and the ARTEC mount is in, but my welder decided to start to give me fits, like not turning off and no feeding wire when the button is pushed. I think last time it did this it was the two small wire connection and one of the wires had pulled out, so I jammed it in and put some tape around it to hold it. Hopefully that's it again and I can do the same thing again to make it work.

I had to modify the removable ARTEC plate at the diff cover and I made a mount for the panhard bar. I went to put the plate in and I need to modify it some more and hopefully I can get it in, but it's going to be tight. I decided to weld the nuts on the plate, cuz it looks like it would be major pain to deal with when removing and when putting back on. I also welded the nuts onto the ram mount, because there was no way to get to them. I'm wondering if I should've turned the bolts over and welded them on so they acted as studs, but it's to late now. The reason is the Trail Gear aluminum ram clamps have no room for a socket and getting a wrench on the bolts for the last 1/2" is a bitch. The same problem may exist with it turned over, but the nuts are taller than the bolt head, so it may have been easier to get them all the way tightened. I will probably change them out to allen head bolts very soon.

The panhard bar mount I put out in front of the ARTEC, I'm not sure I like it 100%, but it should work and I needed to do something to get this thing done, so it was the option I decided to go with. It's not the most cosmetic in appearances, but again it is all I could think of. I can now build the panhard bar, if I can fix the welder.

It is also going to be a close deal if I need ram stops or not. I won't know until it's running and I can check the travel while the arms are unhooked. It measures very close, but I don't want to chance breaking something at this stage, cuz measuring and real life sometimes jump up and bite you.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:48 PM   #114 (permalink)
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I got the welder fixed, somehow the two wire connection came unscrewed some and that was the issue.

So I was able to finish the welding on the ram mount and the panhards mounts, make the panhard bar and the ram arms. And I got everything painted. I also modified the ARTEC diff plate some more, which involved shortening the long leg and I had to cut the notch that goes around the pumpkin deeper. I'm guessing this all depends on how you mount it on your axle. If you can angle it up more then maybe you don't have to notch it like I did. I centered the ram and that's why I had to originally modify that diff plate, so if you don't center your ram or it has only 2 clamps between the ports you may not have to modify it all. All in all I'm very pleased with the ARTEC ram mount and their high steer arms with the offset that allows you to capture the stock tie rod mount on the REID knuckles. I'll post up some pics when I get the panhard installed and the arms bolted in place.

I'm really hoping that within 3-4 weeks I can fire up this thing, but I still have a lot to do before I get there, but I'm getting closer and the list doesn't seem so daunting or at least it doesn't feel so daunting. But with that being said it will probably take me longer, oh well it is what it is.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:12 PM   #115 (permalink)
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got the pulley today and got it on the pump, but damn what a pain that was, the stinking thing just fought me, but I won---

got all the arms on, but not final until I check out the throw and here's some pics--
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:08 AM   #116 (permalink)
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And like I said earlier also, I got the PSC 6 rib pulley onto the Trail Gear pump--PSC pulley #2401 is what I got

I also got the Trail Gear pump installed onto the Explorer power steering & A/C compressor bracket. You need to modify the bracket by cutting a slot in it as the pressure feed points straight down now. Here's a link showing the WildHorses extreme pump and how it's notched:

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...Steering_Pumps

And like I said previously, I originally bought the Wild Horses pump to use, but I didn't like the specs on the pump flow. The pressure was ok, but the flow rate scared me for full hydro.

To get the Trail Gear pump mounted I tapped the bottom mount hole to 3/8 x 16 thread(it's a blank hole and I figured it would be much easier to deal with just a bolt vs bolt and trying to get a nut behind the pulley) and I put two 3/8" washers between the mount and the pump by using some Right Stuff to stick them on the pump and hold them in place while I threaded the bolt into the pump(yes it worked). The side mount is pre tapped for a metric bolt(I'm not sure of the size, but it's close to 5/16" course thread, I forgot to check it before I put it in and again I used two 5/16" washers as spacers between the pump and mount. At the top mount I used a 5/16" x 4" bolt and one washer as a spacer. The top mount isn't threaded and a 5/16" bolt fits nicely.

I still have to run hoses and I bought some fittings to fit my 1999 GMC hydroboost(hopefully they're the right size), so once they're here I'll be working on that. I also mounted the reservoir/filter. You will need a 180* fitting coming off the pump to reservoir hose, but I need to verify that will work, as it may be less of a bend, but that's what I'm starting with.

I also got the ram mount bolts changed out to 1/2" allen heads and that my friends is the ticket, cuz trying to tighten regular bolts is a major pain and when you have to remove them even more of a pain. I got them from McMasterCarr.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:37 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Question!

I see you're running your heims almist 2/3rds of the way between the knuckle arm and the highsteer arm.
Why didn't you just raise the ram up the extra few inches and run it to the highsteer instead?
Seems like the potentiality for the bolt to bend outweighs the single-shear strength when only mounted to the top.

Unless of course, that bolt is sleeved with tube, which it sort of looks like. If so, disregard what i just said!
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:05 PM   #118 (permalink)
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the real reason is so the arms don't hit the frame at full stuff--in the future I may raise it up by notching the frame, but right now I don't want to take the time to do that, as I need to get it running and moving, so that I can clean my garage and pull my '53 flatty in to work on it some.....and yes the bolt is sleeved.....
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:48 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Chris,
You have mad fab skills, and I enjoying following this. If you use one more color in the frontend I'm going to call Ringling Bros. Just kidding!
Shouldn't you have safety washers on the tierod heims, or are you counting on the full length bolt?
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:26 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Mr Willys-----well the orange REID knuckles I thought about painting yellow, but it just seemed sacrilege to do so, so orange they stay, but I promise no more colors as it's getting pretty close to rainbow and I don't want that---although the body will be a different blue or yellow or ?????.....

I'm extremely honored you like my fab skills, I've never attempted anything close to such a project before and was kind of forced to do so, but being a general contractor kind of helps and having not much fear or is that stupidity, I'm not sure!!!

The bolts at the knuckles will go all the way thru, I didn't push them thru yet as I need to take them back out to test the ram throw.

Tonight the reservoir/filter got mounted and I started running some steering hoses. I ended up using the -10an fitting from the Wild Horses extreme steering pump as it was like 135* vs the 180* fitting I mentioned in my previous post. So take note that the 180* won't work. I bought a -6an x 18mx1.5 fitting for the hydroboost fitting that will connect to the hose from the pump and a -6an x 16mx1.5 for the hydroboost fitting that will connect the hose that runs to the orbital. They threaded in, but the 18mx1.5 seated all the way and the 16m x 1.5 didn't, so I'm not sure if they work or not. I'll be finding out the hard way once I fire her up for the first time. I'm going to try and call Vanco and see if I have the right fittings and if not I'll see if I can order the right ones from them.

Well not that I had to but in anticipation of possibly running into issues I decided to grind away some of the front dress so that I can rotate the distributor if needed. The wire connection at the Mallory distributor hit the front dress when rotated and since I'm ford illiterate I'm just covering my bases hopefully.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:43 PM   #121 (permalink)
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IMPORTANT hydroboost info below:

I talked to Van at Vanco and I have the right fittings, but he gave me shot to the gonads, which for me will help me, but ticks me off right now. Somehow in all my research on hydroboost and hydraulic assist or full hydraulic steering set ups you need to have your hydro-booster high flowed or you run the risk of starting your rig and having no brakes when you steer or no steering when applying the brakes. The problem is that the hydrobooster reduces the inlet pressure of your pump to around 1/2, due to it's internal configuration. So I get to pull my booster and send it to him, but again this will mean the booster gets rebuilt and high flowed. I wish I would've known this before as I could've sent it to him last year, but better late than never. Guess I'll be working on the exhaust and winch mounting and front hub install this weekend after I remove the hydroboost unit.

This is straight from the Vanco site: www.vancopbs.com

Hi-Flow Process - This is a process you’ll need if you add Rock-Ram, Ram-assist steering or full hydraulic steering. Rams use more fluid then a typical Hydroboost allows. So we at Vanco hi-flow the units internally to greatly increase the flow so any vehicle with these types of steering work perfectly.

Again how I missed this early on in my build I don't know, guess I didn't read everything and even on the search here early on I missed it, of course now I did a search and bingo I find it....oh the fun........guess this may delay me firing the thing up in a couple of weeks...oh well better to steer and stop at the same time vs only one of the two.....

Ah you say why not hi-flow it yourself?? Well it takes special tools, machine shop stuff and god knows what else to do it and of course time. If I had the time and a spare hydroboost unit I'd be tempted to take it apart and see how it ticks, but I don't so I can't and therefore the highly top secret info on what needs to be done remains with Van and the others who do this work.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:23 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Van took care of me with my hydroboost setup, works great almost too good. If I hit the brakes to hard the 38" tires hook up so well on the street I almost eat the steering wheel. I did have a problem with the brakes dragging after the jeep was running, after troobleshooting and talking with Van it turned out I had plumbed the inline cooler on the wrong return line, from the Hydroboost it has to flow straight to the pump res. Van was really cool and asked "when do you work on your jeep nights and weekends?" i told yes so he gave me his personal cell number so I could further troubleshoot with him if needed. I couldn't believe that a flow through inline cooler would cause resistance to flow but sure enough. Swapped the lines around and works perfect.

~Travis
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:09 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Travis--good info there, thanks---

didn't get a lot of work done today, as I had to deal with new catalytic convertor/resmog for my sons car and then swapped out the starter on my dodge ram---

but I did get the hydroboost removed and packed up ready to go--

got the brake calipers & pads, but I think they're wrong---I thought all ford kingpin brake caliper mounts and calipers were the same, but there's no way the 1985 calipers fit onto my mount, so I guess I have a 1986 and later HP dana 60--I'll be returning them tomorrow and we'll see...

got the STAGE 8 hub nuts installed and really wanted to get the brakes on today, but it's not to be--hopefully tomorrow---

also painted up the winch mount and front bumper, so I'm going to set the winch on tomorrow and bolt her up is and put the orbital on and maybe make new grill stretch pieces since the hydro reservoir/filter required me to tilt the grill less than I had done before, but momma's day will most likely cut my garage time short, so who knows what I'll get accomplished.....
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:35 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Hey Mr.Willys--how about the grill color???? I'm diggin' it!!!!
really though it will be a darker blue almost the same color as the tape on the headlights, although I may change my mind and make it red--the jury is out til later notice---got to keep all of you guys in suspense......

So Ford changed the calipers in 1986 on the F350, so now I know I have a 1986 f350 dana 60. I was never sure before today. So I got the brakes installed--now it's brake line time in the near future.

Installed the orbital and loosely connected some of the hoses, so tomorrow off goes the hydrobooster to Vanco and brake lines and hydroboost hoses are on hold until I get it back.

Got the winch mounted and I slapped the front tires on. YeE HaW as it's been 3-4yrs since it's had all 4 tires on it at once. I still have the front on jack stands so that I can cycle the steering once it's all hooked up and it's up and running.

So in the mean time I'll be working on the exhaust, some tube work, maybe some painting and a ton of misc stuff. I also have the warn lockouts to install, but for some reason I've got a bug up my butt about slugs since I have the ARB in the front. But I've got the lockouts so I'll most likely run them.

Now here's the pic of the front end---looks like a bugeyed willys.....
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:19 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Looks better, and kinda matches the links. Not like wearing plaid with stripes so much.
I don't like the tie rod though. Couldn't you bend it and gain the clearance you need, and connect it solid at the top? Safety washers too. I'm just thinking you're going to bend those bolts. FWIW
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