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Old 06-25-2012, 09:38 AM   #151 (permalink)
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mr. willys-- thanks for the compliment and although I didn't need to hear that I do know you are correct and that's a whole different list of stuff that needs to get checked off along with the ongoing build stuff--I just need to get it started and moved, so I can clean my garage and get my 53 in there to fix a couple of things---probably end up selling the 53, although I hate to as it's very nice willys, but right now I need to thin my herd of vehicles for a few reasons---

Really though I'm sure I'm going to have to pull the distributor more than once to get it to fire off, as I'm not sure I'm at TDC, I think I am but just not super confident sure. Ive never worked on ford's besides changing oil and plugs and with the explorer front cover I had to make a timing pointer and that I'm not sure is 100% correct. So with the timing thing and setting TDC on the compression stroke the old style has got me semi-worried(not sure why really, but just am) So besides not knowing if I'm at TDC my timing may be interesting to get dialed in(may be by ear to start), so I'll probably have to take it to a tuner and get some things ironed out, but we shall see. Like I said my main goal is to get it running and drive it to break the engine in and then clean my bombed out garage and then I can continue on front driveshaft and coilover tuning and slap some tube here and there and work on my 53.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:23 AM   #152 (permalink)
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Pull the number1 valve cover and rotate the motor watching the intake valve. When it starts to rise and fill the cylinder you are on the intake stroke.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:00 AM   #153 (permalink)
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thanks--will do that if i have to....chris
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:31 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Well the nut kicking has begun--my internal hydraulic slave is leaking. I'm not sure why, but why doesn't matter, what I can't remember is if it's new, it seems like it is, but it's leaking is the bottom line. Talk about being bummed out. So it looks like I get to pull the atlas and zf5-42--oh the fun and I don't have the time, well I should say it's going to delay me big time, not just because of the added time to do this but I'm going to be leaving on July 9th for a couple of weeks for work and then come back for a couple for weeks and then I'll be gone for 4-6 months with some short visits back. Did I say I'm bummed and not looking forward to doing this. I may now just sell the zf5-42 and go with an auto. Man I'm pissed.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:06 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Man! I'm bummed out, been following this close and hoping to see some pics with it out of the garage.......hang in there. If it was easy everyone would be driving these not JK's
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:48 AM   #156 (permalink)
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yea you're right about hanging in there, but still I just wonder what other glitches I'll hit when trying to remove the atlas and t-case---bright side is I'll find them now vs on the trail--always have to look on the bright side although my glasses are well fogged up now----

I did get the brackets for my line lock and prop valve welded on, so one more thing to check off the list....

maybe I'll bleed the brakes and the steering before I commence on the tranny removal--ck that steering is going to wait until after tranny removal, just in case I royally kicked my nutz and have to pull the engine to get the slave out---god I hope not, but it would be my luck.....
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:04 PM   #157 (permalink)
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I've been researching the AOD, AODE, 4r70w, c4 and c6 trannies--I'm narrowing it down and it looks like if I was going to get one I'd do the AOD and sell the zf5-42. But that's money that would have to be spent that I don't have right now. You can and probably will spend a pretty penny to get a tranny that will hold up(still looking into costs) There's parts that can be swapped between the AOD, AODE & 4r70w to get the best of all worlds and have a super stout tranny, but again how much does one want to spend. So it looks like I'm sticking with the zf5-42 and I'll replace the internal slave and go from there. I may still buy an AOD, but I need to do some research as there's info that the later AOD's had better oiling.

Thinking back, and I don't know why I didn't do it because I usually error that parts are bad and should be replaced, I don't think I replaced the internal slave. After looking online I see the bleeder screw has a tit on it like a brake bleeder and mine doesn't. So I think, that in the travels or I bought it that way, that the tranny tipped over and broke the tit and also damaged the internal slave. Or when the tranny was removed by whomever they had a bitch of time getting the hydraulic line off and somehow they broke it then.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:34 PM   #158 (permalink)
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On the AOD try to find one from a 1993 F150 or E150. If you end up with a 2wd one i have a tailhousing and 4wd output shaft out in the shed somewhere. It is the last year they used it and already has all of the upgraded OEM internals. You can get stronger than stock aftermarket input shafts and other internals but it gets expensive. I did the AA output shaft to dana 300 and had a stock rebuild done on it. That was about 10 years ago and its still going strong. I only put about 3-5K on it per year.

The low first gear set from the 4r70w can be installed in the AOD if you think you need it. I have done fine with the stock gearing but my wheeling is mostly tight wooded and muddy trails...not a whole lot of rocks to crawl on.

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Old 06-28-2012, 08:01 PM   #159 (permalink)
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cmaje72--I could buy an 85 AOD, but I think I'm gonna pass due to the oiling you're info--if I end up buying a 2wd one I will get in touch with you, so thanks about that. Right now the driveshaft is built for the rear and should be here shortly, so I'm sticking with the zf5-42. I was hoping on doing some more work on it tonight for removal, but I got home later than expected and right now I don't feel up to going down and fighting with it. Hopefully Sat I'll have it back in and can continue with getting it started and moving.
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:25 AM   #160 (permalink)
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Well no driveshaft this week, not sure what happened, I will call Jess at HighAngle on Monday and see when it's supposed to ship. Usually he gets these things turned around mega quick, but maybe he's ultra swamped. Of course if I don't get this tranny out it won't matter.

Now holy freakin mofo sumbitch, what a mess I got myself into. First I tried to get the Atlas unbolted from the tranny and that wasn't going to happen, guess the red silicone is akin to welding as that thing wasn't budging. So it's staying connected, which will complicate my task even more. Then I must have been feeling super he-man when I tightened the bellhouseing bolts, cuz man o man were those dogs tight, in fact I had to hammer on them with my electric impact to get some of them loose, and I broke a swivel on one bolt, but I won out, of course I've got 2 left, but they are the easy ones to get at. Now for the next major obstacle, disconnecting the hydraulic line. Did I screw myself good on this. Being ford dumb has stepped up and grabbed my balls and twisted the living piss out of them. For 2 hours I've been trying to get that line disconnected from the slave. Whoever removed it before broke the plastic release thingy and that's causing me grief to no end. I tried to make a metal prong to slip in and push on the release spring or whatever holds the line in. That was a no go. Then I tried the quick release things you buy for fuel lines and a/c lines and they were to thick to work. So then I cut myself a piece of sheetmetal and made a 2.5" long sleeve and got shoved in where it needs to go, but it doesn't work and I'm not sure why it won't. I guess I'm going to have to gingerly cut the female end and hope i don't screw up the hose male end. So tomorrow I'll be having fun with the dremel.

Also above I stated where the bleed tube was broken, well it's not. The new slave looks the same, so maybe it's threaded, but it didn't look like it, so bleeding the slave is going to be messy, cuz you don't have room for a wrench and hose.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:34 PM   #161 (permalink)
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I'm whooped, but it's back in--what a fun time that was--still need to bleed the slave, but that will happen tomorrow--I feel pretty lucky that I got it back in, but it was tough, but not as tough as it could've been---I ended up cutting two slots in the slave female fitting with a dremel and then I was able to grab the keeper and remove it--line came out and off to the races it was. Pics below show how I did it.


Forgot to add the old one was bent and I'm pretty sure that's why it leaked.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:25 PM   #162 (permalink)
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painted the hood, started to weld in some gussets on the cage, loosely bolted in rear cross member that hold the lower links---am wondering if 4 1/2" boltes per side are going to be strong enough to hold it--got the radiator overflow installed and tidied up some wiring---patched up the hole I had to cut in the center hump to move the tranny back and got the shifters put back on --

couple of shots of the hood painted---
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:38 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Brakes bled(or at least the first go around)--bled the clutch also or at least the first go around, steering bled with wheels off ground, motor turned over few times with coil wire unhooked and fuel pump disconnected to get the fluid to circulate, but I'll still need to bleed it once it's up and running--got some cage gussets welded in--got the Yukon lockouts installed, got the radiator overflow in---getting very close to try and fire the thing up and break in the engine, but there's still some bolt tightening and double/triple checking before that happens.

Also next Tuesday I'm out of here for 10 days, so it may have to wait, we'll just have to see how it goes tomorrow. On one hand I so much want to fire it up and drive it, but on the other hand I don't want to rush stuff and screw something up.

One thing that's gonna take some time is the steering---see below the pics of how much throw I have left on the ram shaft(1") vs my steering stop on the knuckle(hitting it now) and I forgot to take a pic of the tire and the distance to the lower arm(1.5"-2"). So do I make a couple 1" stops to slip over the shaft or cut the stop on the knuckle. I know I need to make sure the stop doesn't touch the seal on the ram or it will toast it sooner than necessary, but I'm not sure what downfall will hit me if I cut the tit off the REID knuckle. I'll have to do some research to see if I can find something out on that.

Couple of pics with the windshield down, I've been tossing the idea of a center bar at the front of the cage, but I'm just not sure I like it or not, pluss I only have 1.75x.25 wall DOM left at the moment and I'm trying to save that for the unknown.
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:10 AM   #164 (permalink)
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Make sure the angle of the axle u-joint will servive with that much steering.

Just my opinion I prefer not to run the center bar, looks good on some rigs, I like the look on desert trucks. It's nice to run no windshield and nothing in your view crawl'n.
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:54 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Why don't you mount the rear view mirror to the top bar? Would mean you could still fold the screen down and drive it that way, plus you'd have les vibrations shaking the mirror apart.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:49 AM   #166 (permalink)
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OZE--funny you mention that, it's been kicking around in my head for a few weeks--guess I should just do it, thanks for the push.

Heimaster80--yea, as I've been turning the steering I've been rotating the tire--I know it binds at some point, but I haven't hit it yet, but I don't think I'm to far away from bind either--I'll unhook the driver's side tie rod and see if I can get it to move all the way over without binding, if it doesn't then I think I'll just cut off the knuckle tit.

I did find out that 40" tires will be my max, unless I relocate the front lower arms. If I would've put the frame mount right under the frame on the front lowers I could maybe have run 42" tires in the future. But I didn't want to do it when I did outboard them and I'm still glad I didn't, as I didn't like the look of them there, plus I felt the bars would/could/may hit the frame upon compression.

REID knuckle steering stop info in here--you can grind the stop down or cut it off and drill and tap it to make it adjustable:
http://www.reidracing.biz/D60001FRL.pdf

Oh yea forgot to add I got my rear driveshaft yesterday and got it put on also. Thanks to HighAngleDriveline. Now my front shaft is on hold until I get this thing driveable, as I'm not sure if I have to go 2 pc or not and I need/want to get it moved, so that's at the back of the list right now.

Found this for "toe in" set up: wasn't looking for it, but it was in this article--it's a little past 1/2 way down into the article--sorry for bringing in some JK stuff, but they are still an offspring of our mighty flatty's:
http://www.jkowners.com/productrevie...cing/index.php
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:04 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Ok--steering stops taken care of wacked them off, so they're about 3/16" short of contact---no problems with turning radius concerning axle u-joints, but the tires just hit my lower arms at full crank--I'll live with it for now---

been wacking away on little things and will continue shortly---not sure I'll try and fire it off today or not--very tempted though....
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #168 (permalink)
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A silver sharpie on the edge of a paint can or milk crate works really well for marking the tires to check toe....
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #169 (permalink)
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another great idea--Mieser you need to write a book on tips & tricks....

probably could've started the jeep yesterday, but I want to roll it outside for that and then be able to drive it(if I'm lucky) and break the engine in, but my garage is a bomb site(as if you couldn't tell) and I need to clear out my fab table and tools and engine lift and metal and boxes and the list goes on....... to get it outside--that will take a day in itself---I still have plenty more tinkering though, so it's all good. unfortunately I'll be gone for work for 2 weeks so there'll be nothing to report until I get back unless I have time to tinker tomorrow, but I'm packing, so I'm not counting on it....

here's some pics of some progress ....

1st pic of the upper radiator clips and power steering reservoir and coil mount---and there's some rubber in between the radiator clips and radiator--I cut up an old 1" wide fan belt ---I still need to do the bottom support....

2nd pic of the radiator overflow bottle & mount--I welded two bolts onto the flat metal and then welded that to the back of the head light bucket--other side I had to use some zip ties to hold in place as I had no way of creating a mount for the one hole on that side

3rd pic of the line lock--I'm not entirely happy with the e-brake set up so I figured why not add a line lock until I can get the other figured out--cheap and easy(of course I've yet to test it, so it might not be so easy, but the install was so far)

4th pic of the prop valve mount--I forgot to tighten the top two fittings thus the leaks, but I did tighten them and all is/was good

5th pic is the same as the first pic, but from the other side
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:15 AM   #170 (permalink)
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whens the maiden voyage? looks close!
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:13 AM   #171 (permalink)
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well it will be streetable, but not rockable, still have front driveshaft to do and belly pan and a few minor things, get the coilover's set up or charged and then it will be rockable or at least set for it's maiden rockable voyage---

maiden street voyage will be after the 20th of this month, as I'm gone for 10days starting tomorrow.

now getting back to the coilovers, since I don't have nitrogen, I thought I've read where I can charge them with air then bleed the air and fill them with the nitrogen---plan is to not have air in there very long--anyone have any insight on this??? need to go back and search some on that.....

chris
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:40 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Write a book. That is kinda funny. My friends who know me will get a kick out of that. I have kept a 'journal' for years with all my ideas sketched out. To summarize it basically goes something like this......jeep, jeep, jeep, car, house, jeep, submarine, airplane, jeep, jeep, jeep, tank, jeep jeep. I think I am on 'book' 10-ish since I started keeping track...200 pages each or so. haha!

Anyways....

Getting some road miles on it will not be a bad thing. It's a good time to get stuff ironed out like driveline vibes, torque lean, suspension clunks, etc.

I can't wait to see it out of the garage and on the road!
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:55 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
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A silver sharpie on the edge of a paint can or milk crate works really well for marking the tires to check toe....
OK I will ask what does this mean? Example please, is this just a same height thing?Or what?

Hey whats this doing on page two anyways???? The Hall Monitor going to get you Sutton!
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:02 PM   #174 (permalink)
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I just got back from Africa, so thus no posting cuz there's been no new work on the flatty...will get back on it this week......

you turn a paint can on it's side or use a milk crate to keep your marking pen constant and spin the wheel and it will mark a line on the wheel to measure to---does that make sense???
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:17 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Quote:
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well it will be streetable, but not rockable, still have front driveshaft to do and belly pan and a few minor things, get the coilover's set up or charged and then it will be rockable or at least set for it's maiden rockable voyage---

maiden street voyage will be after the 20th of this month, as I'm gone for 10days starting tomorrow.

now getting back to the coilovers, since I don't have nitrogen, I thought I've read where I can charge them with air then bleed the air and fill them with the nitrogen---plan is to not have air in there very long--anyone have any insight on this??? need to go back and search some on that.....

chris
Welcome back, and I'm sorry for not seeing this sooner.
Air in coilovers: STOP!
The air we breath is the following:
78% nitrogen
21% oxygen
1% inert gases
The reason nitrogen is used in canisters is because oxygen contains water, and will cause electryolosis due to dissimilar materials.
Either have them filled at the local bike shop, or pony up and buy the regulator, and you know where to get the bottle. It has actually helped me quite a bit. Daughter has flat, pump up tire, and get it home. Pump up air matteress while camping. Blow away neighbors when asked to help pump up a tire. I've even used mine to nail on base board when to lazy to drag a hose through the house.
As for Costco using it in your tires? Hogwash. unless you really feel cool, and think it makes your car go faster.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harris-226-2...#ht_3169wt_905
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