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Old 12-16-2011, 01:20 PM   #176 (permalink)
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I started cutting... Seat is now back 2". 2" off the floor in the back and 4.5" in the front. I think I will be able to live with that. Thats as far back as I can go and still keep the rise in the floor strait left to right and looking stock'ish. Any further back will get into the wheel wells.



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Old 12-16-2011, 01:48 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Could you take a few pics of the front of the wheel tub area please for reference.

I think the seating position looks MUCH better! I think the lower seating position will make things better with the 3B windshield.

Would there be any way to make a 'flatter' cover for the cover plate on the Dana 300. Even if you could gain 1/2" there that would probably be good. I kinda wonder if a flat plate would fit over it? Or maybe a 3/8" thick aluminum plate with a few slots machined for the gears if needed. Or maybe a lexan window so you can see when the t-case frags

Holy rear driveline angle batman!
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:50 PM   #178 (permalink)
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The rear drive shaft angle will get a bit better with the full weight of the truck on it and the pinion lined up correctly.

My rear floor area now measures 37.75" from front to back. I shortened it up by 2.25 from what I can tell from my buttered floors...

I just noticed that the brace that goes from the wheel tub to the door opening is mounted lower on the passenger side. It is totally in the way of how I plan to mount the floor riser and will have to be moved...
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:43 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Wow, I've been reading this thread for over an hour, and love what I'm seeing. Looks absolutely great.

Then I looked at your location and realized you live like 5 miles from where I am in Woodstock. NUTS!

I just moved here from Michigan and barely know any wheelers out this way, and to be honest, was starting to think the wheeling guys around the MD area were nonexistant....apparently not! If you ever need a hand with anything man, let me know. I'm slowly but surely trying to get all my tools and junk for my pile of crap from Michigan out here so I can finish it.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:20 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachis4wheeling View Post
Wow, I've been reading this thread for over an hour, and love what I'm seeing. Looks absolutely great.

Then I looked at your location and realized you live like 5 miles from where I am in Woodstock. NUTS!

I just moved here from Michigan and barely know any wheelers out this way, and to be honest, was starting to think the wheeling guys around the MD area were nonexistant....apparently not! If you ever need a hand with anything man, let me know. I'm slowly but surely trying to get all my tools and junk for my pile of crap from Michigan out here so I can finish it.
Welcome to Maryland! Check out Maryland Creepers for a active local club and forum.

Let me know if you want to stop by and check the jeep out.

KR
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:26 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Floor riser is done. Looks stockish?

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:28 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Yes I still need to trim the floor riser for the driveshaft.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:04 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Looks good! Is that new step in the floor sloped at all, or is it 90 degrees to the floor? It looks like the small section of the original floor on the drivers side is still the factory length at the rear?
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:19 AM   #184 (permalink)
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The new riser is not 90 degrees to the floor. Think of it as following the wheel well opening. It touches the back side of the wheel well lip on the bottom.

I had to trim the about 1/2" off the that little bit of factory floor that was left just to make it easy to get the new riser in place.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:54 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Just ordered this. Should make my repair work go much smoother.

http://www.knowwhere2jeep.com/omix-a...side-cowl.html
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:47 AM   #186 (permalink)
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D300

Touching on Mieser's question; Is there anything to be gained by screwing around with the d300 cover pan? Looks are a little decieving, but are the gears in the way to go completely flat? Perhaps flathead screws?
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:41 AM   #187 (permalink)
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Seems it would be easier/more gained to hack into the seat to make clearance for the 300. Also, losing 1/2-1" of belly clearance to lower the seat even more and better driveline angle seems like it would almost be worth it.

That is a really tall belly which is cool, but keeping the cage low is nice also.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:49 PM   #188 (permalink)
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I am full commit at this point on the flat belly. If anything I will do a mild high-line hood and stretch the hood a bit and move the driveline forward to help the rear driveshaft issue.

I do plan to put pan-head screws in the D300 cover and will clearance the cover if there is room.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:55 PM   #189 (permalink)
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I am looking for gastank ideas. OEM options if possible. These are my max dimensions.

25" wide x 14" front to rear x 12" deep.

I would much rather have a depth around 8" to 10" though.
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:21 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Try to find a DJ3A tank. I know they fit in the rear of the stock Kaiser/Willys universal chassis if you remove the K-bar that supports the rear hitch. The '70s CJ tanks are more like 23x16x10, so they really wont work for you. The YJ 15 gallon tanks are similar in size and that's what I'm using but I had to move the cross member above the axle forward 2 inches to make it fit.
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:24 PM   #191 (permalink)
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CJ5 tanks from the early 70's work too, and it appears the DJ5's are the same tank as well.

You could always buy an aluminum fuel cell and mount it in the back.
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:47 PM   #192 (permalink)
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I have a yj and tj tank at the park if you need one.

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Old 12-24-2011, 10:01 AM   #193 (permalink)
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Youngblood was nice enough to bring a FI Samari (91 and up?) gas tank over for me to try out. I will need to move the filler neck but the tank fits very well.

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Old 12-24-2011, 10:34 AM   #194 (permalink)
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Brake pedal is in. The Master cylinder cap just brushes the hood. Perfect fit.



I need to build some kind of brace to the cowl and to the dash. Even though I added a thin piece of plate to the firewall to spread the load from the brake pedal I know it needs more triangulation.

This is what I have to work with...

From passenger side looking over.


View from the floor.
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:28 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Scab plate off the top of the inside of the cowl, with some kind of bracket down to the pedal?
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Old 12-24-2011, 05:54 PM   #196 (permalink)
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I am bracing mine to the dash with a bolt on bracket. Hopefully that will let me get everything installed under the dash and not have any more holes in the cowl for water to leak to the inside.

Could you take a measurement or two of the location of the bolt pattern for reference? It would be interesting to see where yours ended up in relation to my manual trans pedal pack.
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:05 PM   #197 (permalink)
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Merry Christmas from my family to yours!

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Old 12-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #198 (permalink)
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I finally found a use for the cowl section from my OG flat fender. I had dreams of building a T-bucket type RatRod out of it but I think reusing some of it in the new jeep is more fitting.

I will be reusing the battery box and lid to replace the missing setup on the M38 tub.


The dash will become Garage Art. It is kind of odd/cool in that it is from a DJ3a. Plus the wife and I drove the Jeep home from the Church after our wedding.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:01 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Replacement rocker section is mocked up. Did I miss anything?



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Old 12-27-2011, 08:43 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Looks good. Nice build!
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