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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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My Little MF
My little Mythical Flatty that is...
I had a flatty on 35's and used it for trail rides and competing in NeuRoc at Paragon years ago. The last few years I have built two different YJ's for Class 1 at RCROC's at Rausch Creek. Class 1 is one locker and 33's. I am putting this one together to drive around town and to do well in the competitions. 1974 CJ 5 frame, Flatty body. 4.3 T350 twin sticked D300, flipped. XJ hp front, YJ 4.10's, Detroit, RCV shafts V6 2wd Toy rear, 4.10's Durango PS box 33's BFG Muds and Outlaw 11's 8274 2" lift YJ springs and mounts Simple cage tied in everywhere Low back seats Front and Rear Crossmember's ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I did a little work to the bottom of the HP30.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Most of the fab work is done on the rear diff.
![]() This is just a mockup body I borrowed from a friend. I could not really go any further without it. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Thank you euroford. I have been collecting parts here and there as deals pop up. I figured I had enough parts to start putting something together.
I plan to get the rear shackle mounts, front axle truss and get a good start on the motor mounts this weekend.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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A little past Jeep history for you just to give you a idea of where my head is at.
My original Flatty. 4.3, t18, M18 with Warn OD... ![]() Current trail rig and lifer. Built SBC, auto, doubler, HP60, 9".... ![]() Daily Driver XJ, 33's and lockers ![]() O9 Comp YJ, worked awesome but no power. 4 cylinder with a automatic. ![]() O10, O11 Comp YJ. 4.3, T350, flipped 300. I built it and drove. Not mine.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Rear spring plates weld up.
![]() Front axle truss is done. ![]() ![]() ![]() Rear shackle and D ring mounts done. ![]() Another picture of the Toyota rear housing.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 169497
Location: Cayucos, CA
Posts: 14
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Looking good, I hope that you are planning on stretching the wheelbase because thats a long drivetrain for a short wheelbase. Also be carefull with that front axle truss because it is probably going to hit your motor. My dana 30 barely touched with no truss before i moved the axle ahead but that truss would still hit in my jeep. Im not saying that it wount work you just might want to set the motor before you get too far ahead of yourself.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Thank you for the heads up on the motor fitment issues. I have moved the axles and have the WB set at 86 3/8. I can not go more than 3" over stock for the class I will be using the Jeep in, stock is 83.5 for the 74 frame I am using.
I don't want to set the drive line until my shifters come in from D&D Machine that I ordered on August 1st...
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#10 (permalink) |
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4xdork
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3263
Location: not portland
Posts: 3,168
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cool! looking good.
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Team Tank old junk, new junk, unfinished junk Live Large-RIP Jason Payne ARMY TRUCK STOLEN! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 3,976
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Very cool! I'll be watching this one. It looks like it is going to be a lot like my '42 is suppose to end up.
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42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires 92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141743
Location: Kansas
Posts: 140
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Quote:
/forum/jeep-willys/868450-flatty-build.html
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Orange 1948 Willys CJ2a Flatty Build http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868450 |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Thanks Fred.
Mieser I really like the vision for your build. I do hope mine turns out close to your Photoshopped picture. 2a_toys I dig your build.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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I had a chance today to stop by my local 4wd shop Appalachian Off Road and got some of the little parts I need for the build. Some steering odds and ends and some bushing to finish getting the suspension together.
![]() I took a quick measurement of the 4.3, at the most 25" long from the plug on the back of the distributor to the end of the studs in the water pump. The trans, adapter and short style D300 measure 36". I do plan to mount the driveline offset to the passenger side at least 1" maybe 2" if I can swing it.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141743
Location: Kansas
Posts: 140
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[QUOTE=I do plan to mount the driveline offset to the passenger side at least 1" maybe 2" if I can swing it.[/QUOTE]
I offset mine 2 inches...helped with driveshaft clearance at the tranny pan. Being driver side drop on your front, you won't have the clearance issues around the TH350 like you would if you had a passenger side drop front axle. The TH350 pan sticks out further on the passenger side. Exhaust clearance will be an issue to watch for offsetting it.
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Orange 1948 Willys CJ2a Flatty Build http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868450 |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52989
Location: Keyport, WA and State College, PA
Posts: 640
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I've been meaning to build some of these . What thickness material did you go with? 3/16"
Build looks good, keep it up!
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'47 Willys CJ-2A -- www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690670 |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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jalbrecht42 I use 1/4" for the base and what ever the thicker angle is from Home Depot.
TheHNIC the Durango box uses a bigger bore and piston= more power.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Started mocking up the motor and trans in the frame. I was going to try and use some parts I already had, big aluminum radiator and electric fan that where in my Scrambler at one time and it is going to put the motor to far back to have a decent length rear driveshaft. I may be able to use the radiator but the fan is just way to thick.
Still no reply from D.D. Machine on my shifter order...
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Member # 71376
Location: Bel Air MD
Posts: 119
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It looks like the rear axle is narrower than the front, just an optical illusion?
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1990 YJ, 4.2, AX-15, Stak Dana 300 R-A-C w/ Low max 4:1, F&R D44's with 4.56's and ARB's |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80328
Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 497
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Front axle should be 60.5" and the rear should be 56". I have not verified these numbers, but they where on the internet so must be accurate.
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#24 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31763
Location: Tupelo, MS
Posts: 792
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Looks great so far, and I'm looking forward to following your progress.
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My M38A1 build thread |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Member # 155912
Location: MD
Posts: 145
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D30 C's
Im really digging that uber simple D30 truss, but have u thought of poss. reinforcing the top side of the C's any? Kinda like these -> http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/...-C-Gusset.aspx
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