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Old 05-03-2012, 04:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I bought this Willys about a year and a half ago. Ran great at first. Then I noticed it wouldn't shift into low gear. Then it started blowing blue smoke, then it wouldn't really run at all. Joyyyy.

So I started tearing it apart. I got myself into a pickle with the motor. It's almost half disassembled (the easy stuff). Now I'm not sure what to do with it. I knew I needed to look into the transfer case to see what's up with low gear, but I've been nervous about taking it out. Today I mustered the courage, and I was bored.
As of now I have the tranny and transfer case hung down on bottle jacks. I can just almost get the tcase out, but the shifter handles are getting in the way. I can't imagine the case needs to come more than an inch more back, but nope, shifters are in the way.
I've read about taking out the pivot pin, but there's no room to move a hammer in there. No way! WTF do I do guuuuyyyssss?!?!?

Also, I can't seem to get the rear yolk off. The nuts come off no problem and the parking brake drum rattles around, but the yolk won't seem to slide off. Ideas?

Thanks!!!!
-Jak
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, my dad and I had similar issues with our 3B- for the transfer case center pin, we let it soak in liquid wrench (WD40 should work too) for about 3 days. We then cut a small window in the Jeep's trans tunnel near the shift cover plate, and then welded a new cover onto the removable plate, making accessing it easy for the future. We then threaded in a bold (it's threaded on the passenger side for a grease fitting) and then knocked it loose with a small hammer. A pair of vice grips and some swearing and we got it off.

For the yoke, I'm not so sure. you say the drum rattles freely, and the bolts come off, but you can't get it off? I'd guess that the bolts have wedged outward. Good news is that they are just bolts welded to the parking break drum. We where able to knock our offending bold free (broke the weld) with some heat and the BFH.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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chisel the yoke, its just stuck there who knows when was the last time it was removed!
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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So a few quick taps with a hammer had the rear yolk off. Thanks mr alien. I enlarged the hole in the body for the transfer case shifters, so those don't catch anymore. But now I can't seem to get the t-case any further off the tranny. I've got a ratchet strap pulling hard straight back and it won't come any more. I've hammered on it, pushed and pulled, adjusted all the jacks in many ways... nuthin.
Any ideas? This old bastard is kickin my ass.
Thanks!
-Jak

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Old 05-04-2012, 11:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Oh any can anyone tell I have nearly no idea what I'm doing?
Included using these forums. Anyone know how I can move this thread to the Willys board? Should I delete it and make a new one?
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Make sure the tcase its straight going in. And a moderator would move the thread to the willys section.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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And don't worry bout not knowing, we all been there, just make sure you use the search button
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Its hard to tell but did you pull the rear cover then take the big nut off the input shaft? If so then its bound up some how.
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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moving to Willys
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Since the rear PTO cover isn't off......did you take the D18 input gear off the transmission output shaft? I don't think you could get that far with it on, but that is about all I can think of.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Whoa! Hold It! You are currently pulling the main-shaft out of the transmission.

You need to do the following....

Pull off the PTO cover. (round cover)
Remove the big nut and slide the gear out the back of the transfer case.
You should be able to remove the transfer case now.
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Martin View Post
Whoa! Hold It! You are currently pulling the main-shaft out of the transmission.
Ahh yeah, I'd say you're right Jon. I pulled that plate off, and there sits a big ole nut. Took the pin out, now I need to go buy a big ole socket with the money I don't have
Thanks for the help guys!
And thank you to Gerberhard for moving this thread.




-Jak
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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FYI, it's a 1 5/16" socket, and will most likely come in 3/4" drive. Unless you have a 3/4" set you'll have to adapt it down.
Make sure you tighten that sumbitch good when you put it back on. put a pipe for added leverage on the breaker bar!
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks Mr Willys
I wish I had read that before I went out and bought a 1 1/4" socket. That was the biggest they had in standard sizes at O'Riley. I'll have to do some looking around for the correct socket. And yes I plan on properly torquing (is that a word?) everything when it gets reassembled, whenever that might be.
Thanks!
-Jak
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Wouldn't it be easier to buy a shop manual? Tells you everything step by step.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rock5150 View Post
Wouldn't it be easier to buy a shop manual? Tells you everything step by step.
I have the 1948 manual, but I lack the knowledge to really use it. It could almost be in Greek. And I'm the kind of dummy that likes to go for it.
Good thought though!
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Honestly I did the same thing the first time I pulled a Dana 18....lucky for me it was a big hole case and the input gear slid right out, stayed on the back of the trans....didn't even noticed until I went to put it back on to the new 4-speed six months later....had to go track down my T-90 the day before a run.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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So I bought myself a 1 5/16" socket and it wouldn't fit. The socket was a tad too small. So i exchanged it with a 1 3/8" socket and that thing is too big! Let alone it's torqued like a mofo. Am I just trippin' or something about these sockets? Any chance it's a metric? I feel like I'm just this one wretched nut from getting the tcase out. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Jak
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Metric, not a snowballs chance in hell. If you said that word in the 40's people would have thought you were an alien.
Get the 1 5/16" and try tapping it lightly with a brass punch. Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a pipe for added leverage.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:23 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Man o man I think I might have screwed the pooch on this one. I got a deep 1 5/16" socket, tapped it onto the nut, fits great, but after giving some pressure the nut and gear and shaft all spin freely now. transmission shifter doesn't really move the way it should, in fact it moves the transfer case forward and back. I also tried the transfer case shifters. I'm not sure how to hold the shaft in place so I can remove the nut. Have I condemned myself to having to remove the transmission as well? Maybe I'm getting all my learning mistakes out of the way early on... probably not

Thanks!
-Jak
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:37 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah, you probably pulled the mainshaft out of the transmission to some point.

That nut is always a bugger to get loose. I think there should be a cotter key in it also, make sure you got that out.

You need to isolate the forces in the gears to get things to stop spining. Sometimes if they are not that tight you can block the tires and/or the engine compression is enough.

Some possible solutions.

I have used a small round prybar through the rear output u-joint yoke spanning to the frame. You need to get the direction right for which way you want to turn the nut.

I have also stuck a piece of brass stock between the gears in the t-case to keep the main input gear from spinning. I DON'T recommend this technique, other than a last resort, since you can chip the gears if your not careful.

And yes, you are probably going to have to pull the transmission out to get everything back in place.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Meiser got the idea.
Put a big pipe wrench on the yoke instead. Don't take anything more apart until you get this nut off.
You could burn the T90 mainshaft, but would be an expensive lesson.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:01 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I did that last year but can't remember if I used an impact wrench or jammed a piece of hardwood into the gears to lock them up.
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