From Ranch to Rocks!

[Heimaster80]

6 to 8 up and 7 to 8 inchs down.

SUA National leaf springs with around 10" of total travel( up and down)

[Mieser]

Tough call....

I would probably error on the conservative side. I would do 12" stroke shocks set 6up/6down. With proper spring rates and good bumpstops that would be GREAT in a 95" wheelbase vehicle for most anything. Honestly a 10" shock in the rear would be fine too.....

Trying to package a 14" or 16" shock is going to get much more difficult. Getting them outside the frame is a good idea for maximum leverage on the wheel movement. As the axle articulates the shock mounts on the axle are going to roll under the vehicle creating issues with the clearance at the outside of the frame.....especially with something that has a larger diameter like a coil over. How wide are the axles you are running?

Mounting a long shock is also going to be difficult because of the length. Are you could to poke the shock up through the wheel tub?

How low overall are you going to try and keep this thing?

It is hard to build with moderation when a few extra inches of shock only costs a few more dollars.

In my opinion you need 'enough' travel, but not THAT much especially when your talking about a vehicle with lockers. I would rather have a vehicle slightly carry a tire sometimes and be very stable and predicable.

My feeling is that if you get too much articulation out of the axle the chassis dynamics go all to crap when the axle is severely articulated. You get more torque lean in very articulated suspensions, tires don't want to pop out from under ledges or stay to get stuck in holes. All the AS number calculations also go out the window when one side of the suspension is 0% and the other is 200%, your going uphill, and trying to turn at the same time

My best advice...moderation....

[csutton7]

I went with 14" coilovers on mine--my body sits 3.5" above the frame and I got everything to tuck under the fenders and hood---I'm starting off with 5" up and 9" down, don't ask me why, it was just what I picked from reading---also my rears are 90* to the axle and the fronts are tipped back maybe 5*, but I'd have to check that to verify(as I've never checked the angle)---I must add that my coilovers are mounted to 1/4" plate right under the rear fender and on top of the fender I used a 3/8" plate and tied that into my cage. oh yea my wheelbase is 109" also, not sure that adds anything, but thought I'd mention it just incase.

[MrWillys]

To help give perspective:
I run 8" in back, but only 26" apart, and 10" in front 36" apart. My width and wheelbase are completely stock.
Point being, you're not building a competition buggy, so keep the shock length in tune with your design.

[Heimaster80]

Thanks guys, I did some more measuring tonight. From ride height -I can get 5" up before the lower links hit the upper link frame mounts, also the upper link mounts on the axle would be getting into the tub floor if they go any higher. Down travel will be around 7" before the drive shaft limits on its angle. So.........12" it is. Good call Mieser, you need to change your signature to "The Wise One"

Placement is still up in the air, outside the frame 90* to the axle or inside the frame slightly angled in towards each other.

MrWillys/ Csutton what size lower links you guys run? .250 wall?

[Mieser]

Just trying to help as much as I can.

For the shock position. I would try and go outside the frame if possible. Having the shock motion ratio as close to 1:1 as possible will make you much more happy in the long run. The closer you get the shock to the tire the more control it has.

The flat fender tubs are a little weird. Unless you REALLY want a stock rear seat for 2 people I would push the tubs inboard to the outside edge of the frame. This will give you the most room for a coilover to move to the inside while mounted in the wheel tub.

And post lots more pictures

[MrWillys]

My lowers are 1 3/4" .25 DOM, and uppers are 1 3/4" .125 DOM. You will have to run the coilovers outside the frame, or cut through the floor in the rear.

[dezrik]

Originally Posted by Heimaster80

My new plasma cutter came in this week and I just got it up and running. It is a brand new unit I found on ebay and won it for $240 bucks. It cut though 1/4" metal like nothin! badass little unit, I guess i will have to see how long it lasts.....

It works off of 110/220vac just pulls more amps at the lower voltage

Gainttech 4800D "HOT POWER" -hell ya

I Can't find one for $240, Cheapest Ive got one down to was $315 shipped !

Any updates before I bite the bullet?

[Heimaster80]

Originally Posted by dezrik

I Can't find one for $240, Cheapest Ive got one down to was $315 shipped !

Any updates before I bite the bullet?

If you find one to bid on and not the "buy it now" ones is the best bet. I had to wait three or four days for the bid to end but it was worth it. Good luck!

~Travis

[Heimaster80]

So here are some pic's of the grill mount and lower radiator mount. This work was done a couple weeks ago just getting around to post. For the Grill I just bent up some 1/8'' plate and through a gusset on it, rounded the edge to make it look cleaner. For the Rad/ chassis stiffener used 1.5" DOM with tube inserts the rubber bushing can sit in. The Rad mounts the same way in the factory vehicle, its out of a 95' Grand cherokee (V8) it sits lower whoch will make the steering more work. After having cooling issues with my jeep I would rather deal with a larger rad. during the build then fight the heat issue later......(still fighting mine) Will be running upper rad. supports off of the shock hoops/ or motor cage, not sure what I am going to have room for just yet.

Set the body (whats left of it) over the jeep Friday, leveled it out and put it in position to start building frame mounts/ tub flooring/ all in all the sheet metal work. Thanks to Mieser's build I made myself a sheet metal brake, saved a couple hundred bucks from the harbor Frieght version! Thanks Buddy, hope you don't mind....if you have Patent Pending let me know I'll send u a couple bucks anyways thanks for the great idea!

[Heimaster80]

So here's a couple things keeping me from the build this weekend-

Sad day for the Heimaster family Sat. the fam. dog got real sick so I took him into the vet Sat morning, after four hours and SEVERAL hundreds of dollars later I am told he's not going home. BEAR had very large mass of cancer and internal bleeding. I asked if he could be shot up with some good stuff so he could go home to say good bye. They were hesitant but got him feel'n good to go home. Couple things that dog loved to do, sleep on cold tile in the house with the AC going, look for lizards in wood piles(hours on end) laying in the garage with the door open so he could watch everything going on outside. We rarely closed the door, Bear would never walk out of the garage or side yard unless you asked him to. He knew that the front door to the house was the way in and out and never, never got out or ran away. Great family dog. He was my build buddy for many vehicles/ projects. He was a great guard dog when needed but very loving and gentle to family and friends. He was around for my wedding photo's, our first child's birth, he was and always will be part of this family......

After the truck ride home he spent the day with the AC crank to an uncomfortably cool level for the humans in the house.Slept for several hours, Had McDonalds cheese burger, took some pictures with the family, did some hand(paw) painting with my daughter and back to the vet..........

It was a beatiful day here in San diego weather was just right, after ten years of life (eight with me) Bear rests in peace. It was -still is hard to adjust after eight years of him always laying right were I need to work, now to be working without that. ???Is he in the sparks of the grinder???Is he looking at me welding???Bear I have to work right there......Sunday was different.

He was 135lbs Rottie and was loved by all that knew him, he will be missed dearly by family and friends.


The second reason the build is slowing up is the national springs came in for my jeep so on Sunday I started to tear into that project. Might start posting up on that build....maybe.

[Heimaster80]

SO back at it today for a good eight hours. Started to put together the front springs and axle placement but dont have all the parts needed just yet. Hopefully will be picking up u-bolts and finishing the spring bolt plates tomorrow. Started welded up the BTF DIY diff cover, these things are cool shipped with everything needed minus "welding". We moved on to tub work and finished up most of the base tubing framework for the flooring/ cargo area. I will be adding some stiffeners as needed but for the most part its complete. The fuel cell will be mounted below the rear cargo area/ just rear of the diff and even with the bottom of the frame. This will raise the rear cargo area flooring but all space will be utilized as these little things run real tight on space!

Jeep'n buddy stopped by and snapped some pics of me welding.

It was a good day...............And Tony Stewart won the Coke Zero 400!!!!

[Mieser]

Looks good! I like the square tube floor structure.

Depending on how far you want the seat to go back, you did stretch the belly area so probably not a big deal. You might want to stick a seat in and test out the position with that angled bar that is coming down from the wheel tub to the floor. It looks like It is further forward than the stock kick in the floor was. That might waste some of the extended seating position with the tub stretch.

You are probably not trying to get the seat really low so it might not matter much at all.

[MrWillys]

Sorry to hear about your dog. I lost one in March.
You've got some mad fab skills. Hope everything works well with no bugs.

[Heimaster80]

Originally Posted by Mieser

Looks good! I like the square tube floor structure.

Depending on how far you want the seat to go back, you did stretch the belly area so probably not a big deal. You might want to stick a seat in and test out the position with that angled bar that is coming down from the wheel tub to the floor. It looks like It is further forward than the stock kick in the floor was. That might waste some of the extended seating position with the tub stretch.

You are probably not trying to get the seat really low so it might not matter much at all.

Will Look into seat placement but I think we cut enough out of the wheel well to make it. Also don't want any more angle as it will cut into room for the tire in the wheel well at full bump. I am going to try and get the top of the cage as low as possible to fit better in the trailer, right now mine rubs the bottom of the back bed when we travel and it kind-a tears things up. Thinking about chopping 6 to 8" out of a windshield frame if I can find one -not- in perfect shape as I don't want to cut up something that OE and in good shape.

Originally Posted by MrWillys

Sorry to hear about your dog. I lost one in March.
You've got some mad fab skills. Hope everything works well with no bugs.

Thank you SIR means a lot


So look at what's coming to my garage soon! Now all I need to do is find some 36" IROKs local, everything I can find is on the east coast or SAC CA. With shipping might as well buy new!

/forum/axles-tires-wheels-sale/1075856-raceline-beadlocks-17x9-6x5-5-bp-4-bs.html

Getting closer every day! And thanks to the Hall Monitor keeping me on my toes

~Travis

[Mieser]

haha....hall monitor...

A 3B windshield would probably be about the best no-work solution if you can find one. I think the 3B has more glass than a MB windshield even thought they are both about the same height.

If your going to chop the top and lower the seating position it will give a whole new feel to the vehicle. That is one of the reasons mine sits so dang low. Its kinda odd driving it though I can JUST see the end of the hood. I think it would be better with a 3B windshield since the glass is a little 'lower' in the frame ( or more glass or whatever ).

You stretched the belly a bit so you should be much better off than my stock dimension tub, but one thing I regret is that I didn't buy seats that where shorter front to back. I think something like a side by side replacement seat from corbeau or PRP would be best.

I can't wait to see this one come together! Very cool so far.

[dezrik]

Hmm I may steal that Idea, And use a 3B Windshield on my 3a

[mikeg1713]

This thing is killer!

[Heimaster80]

OK, so now my POS is running and I am able to move it out of the garage I will start back on this only!

I promise Hall Monitor, I will hopefully not have to work Sat and Sun again and have some time with this one

ttt

[Heimaster80]

Worked on rear tub body tie into the new frame work. I cut the rear fenders an inch below the 1x1 frame and bend it over to create strength and a clean edge inside the fender well. It turned out really clean, and very strong side to side. I also squared the tub on the frame and made middle and rear tub/ cage mounts. The tub is squared up within a 1/16"(well just over a 1/32") and dead level side to side.

I used 4 hole plates 3/16'' thick 4x4" square. One on the bottom of the body and to other ontop for the cage to tie in. This way the cage can be pulled/ then the body will only have the middle mount bolts (2) and the body will come right off. Same setup I used on my jeep cage and it seems to be working out great.

[Heimaster80]

Used 1.5"x 1.5" .120wall square tubing for the rear tub/ cage mount. Will use 7/16" grade eight bolts to sandwich the cage/ tub/ to frame. Space between the top and bottom plates will have an aluminium space so that -when- its rolled theres no crush space for the cage. Hopefully that way if its a soft roll the tub and cage wont be trashed.

Mid tub mount is a Mieser idea -frame material cut at a 45*-(which of course worked great) thanks buddy, using 3/8's bolts.

[Heimaster80]

Step Dad and I worked on the rear tub floor frame, we are using the lid from the OE storage box (that was rotted out) for a rear storage box that will be made later. The storage box will be on the drivers side behind the drivers seat, on the other side will be the battery location. The fuel tank will take up the area behind the axle.

We made the fuel tank mount so the tank can be dropped out from the bottom. It ties into the rear tub floor framing. We still need to make the straps/ skid plate and rear bumper.

[Heimaster80]

Made the front tub/ cage mount, used the same plates ans 1.5"x.120 DOM/ tied it into where the frame was already plated as its not a good idea to weld directly to the frame (not very strong/ from experience the frame ends up tearing...over time/ heavy use...roll over)

Using the DOM for the front mount was Dan's idea, look'n good!

Also found the pic of the mid mount

[Heimaster80]

Finished the welding on the the first Diff cover, started welding up the second one. put the front diff on the springs and hung the springs. Started to make the spring hangers, drivers side was easy...passenger side was not so much. When I get the correct bolts needed I will be able to finish the plate. Need to setup the shocks/ bump stops(purchase first) then the axle can be sent out to be checked to make sure its striaght. Filled with the fun stuff and back under the jeep one more time!

Well thats all for now............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ....

[Mieser]

Looking good....

Did you sleeve the square tubing where the bolts go through it?

Gotta ask, stock 3spd transmission?