4l60e question

[Rooney77]

Alright guys, I've got a 4.3 and 4l60e from a 99 s10 I'm trying to build my MB around. Now I know everyone says to run driver's drop because of the indent in the firewall, well I have no firewall and no floor so the options are endless. I've got a free d44 from a 77 waggy I'd like to use but looking at the pan on the trans has me thinking that's not possible. Keep in mind I will be going either atlas/stak/d300 for this build, preferably one of the first two. Is it possible? Should I suck it up and get a driver's drop? The trans pan seems to eliminate the possiblity of passenger drop, dammit.


Edit: stak dimensions show 9" from centerline of input to centerline of front output, that give me approximately 1.5" from the edge of the pan to the centerline of the front output. Seems close if it's even doable. Any ideas?

Edit edit: I've got an explorer 8.8 rear I'd like to stay close to in width.

[craigellis77]

I ran a D300 behind a 4l60e clocked almost flat with a Novak adapter. D-shaft clearance was very tight. I had to order a small-yoke shaft from Tom Woods and grind both the yoke and the corner of the 4l60e off to make it work. If you're willing to clock it lower, you wouldn't have such a problem.

[Rooney77]

Guess I'm going to need to get the axle under it and a frame built before I make any decisions. I'm hoping that maybe the diff is far enough off-center that it will swing the dshaft over enough.

[Peow130]

Sounds like you'll also be lengthening the WB And body to accomate the A/T length..

[Rooney77]

Originally Posted by Peow130

Sounds like you'll also be lengthening the WB And body to accomate the A/T length..

No body stretching, just the wheel base. Right now it has no floor at all and only 10% of the original firewall. I had to cut it all out but that gives me a lot of freedom on the tunnel design and floor bracing locations. Surprisingly, assuming the same size radiator as my cj5 and the same taurus fan, with the motor pushed as far forward as possible, it looks like I'll have a decent rear driveshaft after the wb stretch.

Keep in mind, the only thing I've started with is a tub. When I got it I sold everything else off. Well I did keep the steering wheel.

[Peow130]

Why not just stretch the body to accommodate the lengthened WB?

[Rooney77]

Originally Posted by Peow130

Why not just stretch the body to accommodate the lengthened WB?

I prefer the original dimensions, much like others on here who have not stretched the body. I have no reason to, so why do all the additional work?

[Mieser]

2pc front driveline?

[Rooney77]

Originally Posted by Mieser

2pc front driveline?

I've wondered about that but I've not seen one setup or anything and I've not really had time to do any research on one. I'm not opposed to the idea, seems to work for those that have used it.

[Mieser]

I ended up making one on my Rango project. It works pretty well for a home made unit. I used a 1980 GM carrier bearing and a light press fit shaft made out of an old D20 front output shaft and 10-spline 1310 yoke.

[Rooney77]

Originally Posted by Mieser

I ended up making one on my Rango project. It works pretty well for a home made unit. I used a 1980 GM carrier bearing and a light press fit shaft made out of an old D20 front output shaft and 10-spline 1310 yoke.

Got a pic? Or is there one in your build thread.