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Old 06-14-2012, 11:18 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Alrighty, well here's the numbers I came up with. I know the 300 can be done cheaper but looking at all this and the amount of DIY work, stak may be the tcase I go with.

stak 2 sp with adapter = $2726 plus adapter install/rebuild
stak 3 sp with adapter = $3326 plus adapter install/rebuild
dana 300 flipped = $2836 (with 4:1, adapter, flip kit and rebuilds)

Of course there is always the option of just putting a SYE on the existing np233c. But that means I'd have to figure out how to shift it since it's electronic.




Well back to the build. Since it seems I don't have to finish weld everything at this point, the plan is to tack the fishplates into place and get the motor positioned and maybe tacked. I hesitate to weld it since I don't have my axles yet (next weekend). Just hope my little 110 wire feed will tack it strongly enough.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:30 AM   #52 (permalink)
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My engine, transmission, and transfer case where hanging off tack welds for months with some decent tacks from my little welder....no problem.

I even rolled it outside at one point with it bouncing on the lip of the garage floor....no big deal.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:48 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:18 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Got the motor tacked in yesterday. I was all excited at first thinking I could have a flat skid (first pic), then I realized there was a problem (second pic), which means I'd have to cut the mounts (third pic) to lower the motor.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:21 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Once I chopped the mounts I lowered the motor to where the intake just cleared the hood. Then the fun part of getting it level and positioned just right. Here is how it sits now. And a few pics of where I'll have driveshaft clearance.

edit: I wish I snapped a pic of where the rear of the trans sits. Looks like I'll have plenty of driveshaft length. . I'll try to remember to get one this afternoon.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:26 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Looks good! I am interested to see how the tunnel will look
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:35 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Looks good! I am interested to see how the tunnel will look
If you ignore that piece of steel on the left side of the pic, just imgine the c channel covered in sheet. Gives me ample vertical clearance
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Cool!

Did you offset the engine one way or the other or just run it centered?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:33 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Cool!

Did you offset the engine one way or the other or just run it centered?
It's offset about an inch. That's really the only way I could get the mounts to line up inside the frame so it worked out nicely.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:35 AM   #60 (permalink)
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To the passenger side?

Did you build the frame to the 'stock' width?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #61 (permalink)
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To the passenger side?

Did you build the frame to the 'stock' width?
Yup to the passenger side. The 4l60e has the pan that sticks out on the passenger side so I offset to make room for the driver's drop driveshaft. As for the frame, I built it to 30" outside to outside.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:14 PM   #62 (permalink)
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So about 3/4" of clearance for the mini-stak case
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:20 PM   #63 (permalink)
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So about 3/4" of clearance for the mini-stak case
I haven't measured to be honest. When I ballparked it on paper I know I had enough room. It may be close though.
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:22 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Well thanks to Meiser's comment about tcase space (glad he did) I'm going to have to move my motor over a bit more. There is only one problem. As you can see in the pic, I chopped the mount too close to the hole since like a tard I assumed I wouldn't need it. Any ideas how I should repair this? I figured adding some flat stock to the end the grinding the welds would do but I'd like some opinions.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:33 AM   #65 (permalink)
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make a new(longer) plate to fit underneath(drill your two holes to align it with the existing mount) and weld that dog in and you're set---chris
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:39 AM   #66 (permalink)
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yeah, just add flat stock to extend the channel. burn it in hot from both sides and grind it smooth. I think you'll have to fill in the hole next to the edge first. just 'tak tak tak' on the side you can access with the grinder to fill it in, then burn it really hot from the other side.

(edit: you got two different answers at the same time, lol. really we are both right, you can either extend it out, or just plate it)
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:43 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Does swapping the motor mounts side to side help any?
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:48 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Does swapping the motor mounts side to side help any?
I'll have to double check it but I'm thinking it won't. And thanks for mentioning the tcase width . Would have sucked to realize that later.

As for putting a plate under it, do you think 1/8" would do or should I use 1/4".
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:59 AM   #69 (permalink)
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I'll have to double check it but I'm thinking it won't. And thanks for mentioning the tcase width . Would have sucked to realize that later.

As for putting a plate under it, do you think 1/8" would do or should I use 1/4".
I was kinda wondering about the t-case thing...that is why I mentioned it

I don't think most people really realize how tight these things are to build until they build one. Spare space is measured in fractions....
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:22 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I was kinda wondering about the t-case thing...that is why I mentioned it

I don't think most people really realize how tight these things are to build until they build one. Spare space is measured in fractions....
It really doesn't look so tight until you put a tape measure to it. My calibrated eye is busted.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:46 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I'd use 1/4" plate as a minimum...

I ended up having to put a notch in my frame to accomodate the atlas--guys do it all the time, so don't fret if you have to notch it--I put a 3/8 or maybe it was 1/2" x 3 7/8" x 18" plate(may have been longer, I don't recall exact length, but i made sure I went past my notch 3" minimum each way) and welded it in and then capped/shut it off with some 1/4" plate...
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:41 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Looking at running a flipped 300, it's probably what I'll do for now. I'll build as if I'm going to run a stak though. So my question has to do with the 4l60e stock adapter. The pic sucks but you get the idea. It has the 6 bolt hex pattern on the trans side and IIRC a 5 bolt pattern on the tcase side. Will I have to use this to mate a flipped 300? As a side note, I plan to use the northwest fab flip kit.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:33 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
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yeah, just add flat stock to extend the channel. burn it in hot from both sides and grind it smooth. I think you'll have to fill in the hole next to the edge first. just 'tak tak tak' on the side you can access with the grinder to fill it in, then burn it really hot from the other side.

(edit: you got two different answers at the same time, lol. really we are both right, you can either extend it out, or just plate it)
Was going to suggest that, except the one problem..

That motor mount looks like plated steel. The kind that when you weld, doesn't stay very strong and has a tendency to crack and flake, and bring with it some bad smoke.

ZIIIIINC. Careful welding that. Grind off as much of the zinc as you can,
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:15 PM   #74 (permalink)
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This reminds me that I should have hammered my exhaust slightly oval between the frame and the t-case. I could just about measure what's left with a feeler gauge.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Was going to suggest that, except the one problem..

That motor mount looks like plated steel. The kind that when you weld, doesn't stay very strong and has a tendency to crack and flake, and bring with it some bad smoke.

ZIIIIINC. Careful welding that. Grind off as much of the zinc as you can,
Thought about that. Thanks for the reminder.


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This reminds me that I should have hammered my exhaust slightly oval between the frame and the t-case. I could just about measure what's left with a feeler gauge.
If I can find a d300 for the right price, I won't have to move the motor or mod the frame.
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