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M38A1 Build-6.0L, 4-speed, and Patina

57K views 188 replies 29 participants last post by  87FoRunner 
#1 · (Edited)
M38A1 Build-4.3L, 4-speed, and Patina

Located a pretty good A1 tub locally sort of incidentally today, the price is right, and the patina is intact.


changed thinking on the engine and will run a 2002 4.3 Vortec
Sm420
D300
Wagoneer 44 front
went with an Isuzu Corp. 12 bolt rear axle 4.30 R&P
SUA, 85–88" wheelbase
35" BFG KM2 on stock Chevrolet wheels, 15x6
New frame- thinking 2x5 for belly and 2x4 for the rest, per Meiser's experience. Ended up going with all 2x4x.120
A little longer than stock and pretty low
Rear corners will be intact (somewhat)
Patina will be intact

Done :)
 
#2 ·
Obviously, the hood is peeled up, but I think I can straighten it so it'll look okay for what I want.

The corners are beat up, so they'll get pounded back out.

The jeep actually doesn't have much rust in it. The hat channels are mostly good. Some actually don't even have surface rust.
 

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#5 ·
I'll be building a frame for it from scratch with a deeper belly and that is longer overall.

And, no comp cut! I'll stretch it a bit and probably trim the rear like Pewe did on the Ultimate A1. I think he called it a "'49 Buick swoope". Haha.

As for the patina, it's really the reason for buying this tub. I really wanted to build an MB or M38, but finding one that looks good and isn't rusted out is tough.

I'm borrowing a lot from other builds here to keep it low and incorporate things others have learned. If you have a build thread in this section, chances are I have read it front to back. I've tried to be a sponge and learn from the awesome tech in the Willys forum. I love it.
 
#7 ·
I'm going to try to go pretty low, so definitely a highline. I'll probably shoot for about 15-17" for the belly height. The short wheelbase should help out with a lower belly height. My old buggy has 42s, 113 wb, and an 18" belly. I only got denied once on a ledge because of the belly height. I'd rather have good stability while maybe having to drag over something occasionally.

The 6.0 should be nasty in this little thing. I'm a bit worried about the rear axle holding up, but I'd rather not narrow a larger axle or sacrifice the light weight of the 9".

My other rig needs to sell before I go too crazy with this one, but I'm going to keep gathering parts and getting things ready. I like to have pretty much everything here before starting a build.

I cannot wait to get started. I had a M38 a fee years back that I sold to a friend before finishing, and I have missed it ever since.
 
#9 ·
With that tub I wouldn't worry about keeping the stock front fenders. I would just build some tube version, maybe something different like square tube with a rolled rear arch.

Any plans for getting the V8 in the stubby nose? M38s had the short nose right? Maybe get a normal later CJ hood and push the grill forward a bit with the new fenders.

That 9" should be ok as long as you can stop from hitting the pinion too hard on stuff. It will be rotated up pretty far I imagine so it shouldn't be too bad.
At least the upgrade path is easy. You can go crazy if you want to.

Try and hash out all the details you can now, it will make the build easier.

When cutting the rear you should try and modify the relief in the tub so the rear of the tub looks more factory. I always thought that would be trick.

Plan on rebuilding the wheel tubs taller. Try and figure out what seats and seat angle you want so you can optimize the front of the wheel tub to match the seat. This should buy you a little more leg room.

Are you going to split the wheelbase stretch up front to back. With the slightly longer nose you can gain 3" in the front easy. +2 on that and the front frame section past the grill shouldn't be too long. +5 in the rear is going to be about the max for a 35" tire and no comp cut.
 
#10 ·
Keep the M38A1 grille for increased mojo, swap the hood and fenders for later longer CJ units to hide the stretch (splice in the snorkel door from the short hood to keep people guessing) and make room for the six-oooohh my god that's going to be fun.

SM420 may not be the easiest choice...SM465 maybe?
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the advice on the longer hood and clip. I'm going to do my best to fit the engine in the stock engine compartment and have a good radiator/fan combo in there.

Without a rear mounted distributor, I think I can stuff it very close to the firewall for maximum radiator clearance. It'll just depend on what it looks like when I get everything bolted together.

This is very early because I still have to pull the tub off and get the new frame built.
 
#20 · (Edited)
MrWillys:14668606 said:
Thanks. I have read Novak's info several times, and I'm down to collecting the rest of my parts and putting the pieces together.

I have a lead on a couple of more A1s this weekend, so I may drag home more.

And here's my inspiration; mine just be a little longer WB and a little lower. I know some of you remember this rig from ultimate adventure
2001:
 

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#22 ·
Don't get me wrong, I'm all for keeping the short-nose....I love the short-nose so much I put on my '95 YJ...it was just a suggestion to help fit the 6.0....gotta keep the A1 grille though, it makes the whole look.

I've had trail rigs with both SM465's and SM420's, while I love the SM420, they are tough to package in a passenger drop application and the 465 is much more plentiful, but there's nothing wrong with using what you have.

I also have a need for lots of little M38A1 brackets, trickets, and gizmos...no drivetrain or electrical, just body and interior stuff....don't throw anything away, my '52 was stripped clean when I got it and I want to resto-mod it to look like a survivor.
 
#25 ·
I'm not sure what happened there. My buddy's early 5 cracked in the same spot from a big hit though, so I figure this one had something similar happen.

On another note, with the power I think I'm going to go with bigger axles. I have a DRW Eaton rear axle that's 63 inches WMS and just came across another 60 front for cheap. I would narrow the 60 to 64 or 65 WMS and not worry about breaking.

Otherwise, I'm thinking of going with a 4.3 vortec if I run the 44 and 9 inch just to have some confidence.

I mostly like technical crawling and live in the SE so occasionally I have to use a lot of throttle.

Thoughts?
 
#29 ·
I'm not sure what happened there. My buddy's early 5 cracked in the same spot from a big hit though, so I figure this one had something similar happen.

On another note, with the power I think I'm going to go with bigger axles. I have a DRW Eaton rear axle that's 63 inches WMS and just came across another 60 front for cheap. I would narrow the 60 to 64 or 65 WMS and not worry about breaking.

Otherwise, I'm thinking of going with a 4.3 vortec if I run the 44 and 9 inch just to have some confidence.

I mostly like technical crawling and live in the SE so occasionally I have to use a lot of throttle









Thoughts?
Full width tons with a bigger case!!
 
#31 ·
I sold my other Jeep, so I'm getting back to work on this one. Yesterday I pressure washed as much crud off as I could to get down to original paint. At least the mildew is gone now. Haha

I think I'll paint the floor, firewall, and underside of the tub, just to prevent more rust and keep my stuff from getting dirty once it's together .

I decided to sell the 6.0 and stick with a 4.3 and smaller axles just to be more sane.

In the next couple of weeks, I should be starting the frame build, so ill post pics. I'm going to use intermediate cj5 dimensions and make it the width of my narrow track Wagoneer 44.
 
#32 ·
Cool project. My A1 was smashed in the back like that at one time. I wound up doing the Warrior full wrap in the back. But the reinforcement on the tailgate panel where the footman loops are was already removed from mine after the wreck. Was "civilianized" in the '70's with 5 gallons of bondo. I stripped all that off, primed and painted, and then put the wrap on.

But I'm with you in that straighten it as much as you can! I like the "patina'd" look.

Here's a pic of the back with the wrap, I still need to get fuel can blasted, painted, and mounted.

 
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