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Old 03-02-2013, 05:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My Little MF Parts Due

Just collecting parts at this point.
1942 GPW Ford script body.
1945 GPW Roller.
Really nice stock 2a frame
Cut up Kirky back breaker seats
late 80's Wagoneer steering box with Astro Van pitman arm
High Pressure Hose-Edelmann 80273
YJ tierod and XJ tierod cut to fit
Used stock rear spring and 4" shackles front and rear
XJ clutch peddle assembly. Omix-Ada S-52079034.
4.3 out of a 1994 S10 Blazer. Thinned factory harness
Rad http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-25201-X/
Pre filter- Wix 33023
Fuel Pump- Spectra Premium SP1121
1978'ish 10 spline 465 with 87'ish hydro clutch bellhousing, 1985 K10 Slave cylinder with Edelmann #282800 to convert from 12mmx1.0 bubble flare to 7/16x24
Throwout bearing #SFK N1741-sa
Novak adapter, d300.
1983 Toyota axles with 4.10's factory e-locker for rear and Detroit for front
High line fenders
35 Krawlers
8274
Parking brake... 4114T21 from Mcmaster. Panel-mount Brass Ball Valve Inline, 1/8" Npt Female

Script tub






45 GPW I bought at Davies Jeep in Ohio.




I already put this grill in it.
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Last edited by b4wscrambler; Yesterday at 02:20 PM. Reason: Updated part numbers
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Close to how the 45 GPW sits now.


Mid 80's Bronco steering box.


1994 S-dime motor. weighs 510 lbs as it sits.


Mirror is staying for sure.


D300 home brew shifters using M18 sticks.




This is the second time I have owned these tires. They where one of the first sets on the East Coast back in the day. They where on my OG DJ3a.
35 Krawlers weigh about the same as a 35 BFG KM2 mounted on a 15x10 aluminum wheel...
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Glad to see you back at it again, and im glad that gpw is getting a new lease on life. Look forward to the build
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you end up going auto I have xj stock pedal. I also have a 3a windshield frame if you need one.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Glad to see you back at it again, and im glad that gpw is getting a new lease on life. Look forward to the build
Thanks early 46. It has been a long year and I have another bad one ahead of me but I will get threw it.

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If you end up going auto I have xj stock pedal. I also have a 3a windshield frame if you need one.
I am committed to going 4 speed on this one. Something about teaching my kids to drive in a granny low jeep really appeals to me. I will keep you in mind on the windshield frame, Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's good to see you getting back into another project!

Let the questions begin!

-Why the hard back seats? Do you have an indestructible spine or something? I know even my cheapie low back suspension seats where SOOOOO much freaking better than the stock seats. The stock seats where basically like those aluminum kirby racing seats for padding
-What is the plan for wheelbase stretch?
-SOA or SUA?
-How are you going to highline the fenders? I have never seen that done before
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I wanted the Speedway Bomber seats and that is just not in the budget. I have a friend with a used set of Kirky's and I plan to cut them up to make them low back seats. As a bonus the driver seat has been modified so the base is the same as a suspension seat. I should have them next week with some pictures.

Rear spring mount moved back 2" and maybe another inch on the spring perch. Stock front hanger location with rear springs and the axle moved forward an inch on the perch. So what ever that works out to as far as stretch...

All set up spring under.

I have been working on a friends TJ and in turn he bought my Novak adapter that just showed up today. I hope to get that mocked up this week to make sure my shifters will work.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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nice to see you with a new project. I guess you will need my engine hoist a bit longer. I may snag it for a day or two to swap coil springs on the buggy. Holler if you need help.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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nice to see you with a new project. I guess you will need my engine hoist a bit longer. I may snag it for a day or two to swap coil springs on the buggy. Holler if you need help.
Thanks Mike!
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Rear spring mount moved back 2" and maybe another inch on the spring perch. Stock front hanger location with rear springs and the axle moved forward an inch on the perch. So what ever that works out to as far as stretch...

I think my rear axle is about 2" back. The tire basically rubs in 3 points so I think that is about the perfect position for 35s if you want to keep a modified toolbox in the rear corner. I did an 18" radius rear opening that basically touched the well in the front and rear ( at the panel seam ). Overall it has worked out pretty well.

A stock rear spring is about 20.875-20.750 from eye to center depending on end. The front is about 18.25" according to my notes. So just bolting a rear spring in the front will be about a 2.5" stretch give or take.


All set up spring under.

Good plan. Are you going to get creative with the toyota mini-axles for a SUA spring perch with the stock jeep spring center?

I think the height with a stock frame should work out ok. If my math is correct I am at about a 1/2" drop compared to my friends 47 cj2a.

I have been working on a friends TJ and in turn he bought my Novak adapter that just showed up today. I hope to get that mocked up this week to make sure my shifters will work.

Sounds good. Any plans to raise the transmission and transfer case up to get a mostly flat belly? Your last tunnel turned out pretty nice so it should be no big deal...
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I would be happy with a 87" wheel base and no lift. I have no idea how I will mount the front housing.Mounting up the front Toyota axle spring perch will not be a big deal. I assume no ubolt on the inner Passenger side. Worst case I will do something like I did on the M38. I am hoping for a flat belly, worst case I will do a small bowl style skid plate. I hope to drive this one to the Rubicon or at least the Easter Jeep Safari some day so the driveline angles need to be manageable.

I started working on installing the Novak adapter and got the input shaft in the D300 swapped out tonight. It was way easier than I thought. It could be done with a vice, hammer and piece of pipe. It took less than an hour. I've got a busy week and am not sure if I will have time to get the trans cleaned up or not, but I will get to it. I really want to see how it looks all mocked up.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If your going to have to redo the floor for the centered rear output anyways you should be able to get the belly flat. I basically stopped with mine since the D18 output was going to need to go through the floor and hat channel. The shifter will have to be pretty creative. Basically you will probably need to trim the dash for the shifter I BARELY squeaked my SM420 shifter under the stock dash with the belly dropped about 1-1.5". If you could make another factory divot like the steering column that would look kinda stock.

If you have the space push the bellhousing forward a bit. This will make the mods to the firewall around your right foot area much easier.

Double check your hydro clutch stuff. Even in the position my engine is in ( down a little from flat ) my clutch fork would be pretty close to floor level....

I think your going to need a rear CV driveshaft, but it shouldn't be that bad with the stock SUA springs...even with the flat belly. Rotated rear diff for sure.

Hell yeah your going to have to FINISH this one and bring it out west! Driving it out sounds like a killer trip. Jalbrecht42 probably wants to drive his flattie out here to and he isn't too far from you He's gonna kill me for saying that! I'm only like 3 hours ( errrr.....4.5 in a flat fender ) from Moab but your welcome to pit stop for shop time.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I want in on that trip out to Moab, too! I'd be coming from north MS driving the A1 when I finish it. Let's make it happen.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Cross country in a flatty would be an experience, I think I'll need some better seats! I saw Pewe at the Butler PA show, which I guess he drove to and from in a flatty (and a pretty much stock one too)...

But on topic..

What all are you going to reuse from the script tub?

When you fit up the D300, would you be able to check to see how feasible it would be to install it in a 'flipped' driver drop configuration? From what I can work out, I think the three clocking positions would put you at around 'flat' to about 20 degrees above flat. Other than redrilling the adapter, do you see any other issues?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:33 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If your going to have to redo the floor for the centered rear output anyways you should be able to get the belly flat. I basically stopped with mine since the D18 output was going to need to go through the floor and hat channel. The shifter will have to be pretty creative. Basically you will probably need to trim the dash for the shifter I BARELY squeaked my SM420 shifter under the stock dash with the belly dropped about 1-1.5". If you could make another factory divot like the steering column that would look kinda stock.

If you have the space push the bellhousing forward a bit. This will make the mods to the firewall around your right foot area much easier.

Double check your hydro clutch stuff. Even in the position my engine is in ( down a little from flat ) my clutch fork would be pretty close to floor level....

I think your going to need a rear CV driveshaft, but it shouldn't be that bad with the stock SUA springs...even with the flat belly. Rotated rear diff for sure.

Hell yeah your going to have to FINISH this one and bring it out west! Driving it out sounds like a killer trip. Jalbrecht42 probably wants to drive his flattie out here to and he isn't too far from you He's gonna kill me for saying that! I'm only like 3 hours ( errrr.....4.5 in a flat fender ) from Moab but your welcome to pit stop for shop time.
I am going to have to build new floors front to back anyway so cutting up the floor is not an issue.

I like the idea of making the relief cut in the dash to look just like the factory divot for the steering column. Though I have thought about building something like what the EB guys do to relocate the NP435 so the shifter is not under the dash. I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

I am a little concerned about the clutch fork/ slave cylinder occupying the same space as the gas pedal.

CV shaft for sure. The problem on the M38 with the auto the 1310 CV was maxed out at ride height and that's after I clearanced it. It was not sitting at true ride height but would never survive on a long road trip. That is a big part of why this jeep is going with a 4 speed.

I plan to finish this one but in reality it is a little bit out of my control... Thank you for the offer on the place to stay. I will plan on that when the jeep is all sorted out and I am ready to go.

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I want in on that trip out to Moab, too! I'd be coming from north MS driving the A1 when I finish it. Let's make it happen.
When I am ready I will be sure to post up.

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Cross country in a flatty would be an experience, I think I'll need some better seats! I saw Pewe at the Butler PA show, which I guess he drove to and from in a flatty (and a pretty much stock one too)...

But on topic..

What all are you going to reuse from the script tub?

When you fit up the D300, would you be able to check to see how feasible it would be to install it in a 'flipped' driver drop configuration? From what I can work out, I think the three clocking positions would put you at around 'flat' to about 20 degrees above flat. Other than redrilling the adapter, do you see any other issues?
The script tub has a ton of little pieces that that I need, grab handles and little brackets and such. I plan to straiten the tub out enough to mount it on my roller GPW frame and sell it. I hope it can get another lease on life.

After I get the trans cleaned up and adapter mounted I will see if I can get some pictures of the d300 flipped over for you.

Thanks guys for the replies. It has really been getting me motivated to get a little something done every chance I get.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Some more misc thoughts...

-If you end up significantly shortening the shift lever length on the transmission, make sure to check the force required to get it onto reverse. On my SM420 the lever was short enough that you just about needed two hands to get it into reverse! The T18 isn't nearly as stiff but I still may play with that spring...

-I think the stock frame is a little taller than my homemade frame. This might give you another inch or so for the flat belly and position of things.

-On both the SM420 and T18 the bottom of the transmission was lower than the bottom of the D18 pan by a pretty significant amount. Maybe if you can play with clocking on the D300 you could drop the front output slightly to help with packaging and the front driveshaft being above the level of the floor?

-I think the external clutch fork is going to be a limiting factor in transmission height in the chassis. You might be able to cheat the engine forward in the chassis a bit.

-When you do the highline are you going to stretch the hood or section the fenders back down to keep a stock length hood? I think it is about a 1.38-1.5" change in length with the fenders raised 2.75". Having the extra room under the hood is nice....even just about an inch.

Are you done yet? How about now? now?
Keep rolling on the project. Doing a little bit every day adds up!
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I had to move some stuff around the shop today during nap time and what do you know the 465 ended up on the work bench to save some space.





I can clock the d300 down one more hole or up one or two more. This was the only configuration that I would not have to modify the D300 shift tower.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I tried flipping the d300. I don't she how it is going to happen with the Novak adapter with out cutting off the shifter tower. I didn't even notice the offset on the case until I was trying to hold the d300 upside down...

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Old 03-07-2013, 06:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You still wan the bucket seats that I have right?
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I tried flipping the d300. I don't she how it is going to happen with the Novak adapter with out cutting off the shifter tower. I didn't even notice the offset on the case until I was trying to hold the d300 upside down...
Check with northwest fab. He has an affordable flip kit and cable shifter setup. It is quality stuff. I'm going to run it in mine. You will need to trim off part of the shifter mount if you do flip it.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:38 AM   #21 (permalink)
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You still wan the bucket seats that I have right?
Yes I want the seats for sure. I don't plan on using them in this though.

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Check with northwest fab. He has an affordable flip kit and cable shifter setup. It is quality stuff. I'm going to run it in mine. You will need to trim off part of the shifter mount if you do flip it.
I was mocking the flipped case for jalbrecht42. I will be running the d300 in the standard orientation.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Looking forward to this Kane!! I am hoping Erik gets his stuff together to start his willys project.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I tried flipping the d300. I don't she how it is going to happen with the Novak adapter with out cutting off the shifter tower. I didn't even notice the offset on the case until I was trying to hold the d300 upside down...
Thanks for the pic, that's good to know. Beside the shift tower problem, does it look like there room for the driveline/1310 yoke/joint etc?
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Looking forward to this Kane!! I am hoping Erik gets his stuff together to start his willys project.
I thought the Willys was yours?

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Thanks for the pic, that's good to know. Beside the shift tower problem, does it look like there room for the driveline/1310 yoke/joint etc?
To be honest I did not even get a good look at it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I thought the Willys was yours?



To be honest I did not even get a good look at it.
I bought the willys, planning on building it this summer.
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