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Old 03-20-2013, 07:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1957 willys a šouple of questions

I found one for sale for 1200 it's a couple of hours away guy says it's been sitting for like 10 years has a 350 SBC in it 3 speed no top or doors stock axles non ball joint front axle little rust he said . think it's a decent deal? And hoe weak are those axles?
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I found one for sale for 1200 it's a couple of hours away guy says it's been sitting for like 10 years has a 350 SBC in it 3 speed no top or doors stock axles non ball joint front axle little rust he said . think it's a decent deal? And hoe weak are those axles?
What area are you in? A Willys what, jeep/wagon...?

In my area that would seem fair if titled, minimal rust, complete-ish and will drive itself onto the trailer. As a point of comparison I picked up a 49 jeep that was a driver, complete, rust free excluding the tool box, all original and titled for $2200. Then I also picked up a 42 slat grill rust bucket with everything but the tub being GPW for $200, no title and no where near running.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i am in the st. louis mo area and yes a regular jeep sorry lol
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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A stock 57 CJ5 is a pretty good rig in stock form. The T90 3spd is a bit weak for the V8 power, ans will eventually need to be replaced unless driven in moderation. The D18 T case in this model is very strong and may be updated later to a D 20 case with a large bore if needed. All internals will swap over. The rear Dana 44 is a proven work horse, but in these years had 10 spline tapered axles, but can be upgraded for the hard core. The front Dana 25 is good for 33" tires, but will need a Saginaw steering, and maybe a disc brake conversion.

The real question here shouldn't be about intial cost, but your commitment to such a grand undertaking. One week after I bought mine in 1994 it was completely frame off. I'm not saying you'll do this, but your not buying a 20 year old vehicle. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It all depends on what you want in the end.

If the body is in good shape with a good title it is probably worth the money. Most of the other stuff will probably need replaced or rebuild.

Some peoples idea of a 'little rust' can vary GREATLY. A clean body will make your lift WAY easier if you decide to modify it.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the plan is to buy and wheel it like it is for now some trails and mud i had a 04 but didnt do much because didnt want to tear it up and drove it where ever i ran it so now i have a truck and trailer so will make things easyer lol i am a diesel mechanic by trade so the work is fine and would like to in the future definatly upgrade the axles and tranns and lift and eventually stretch it but thats all a few years away just want to start with something decent
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It all depends on what you want in the end.

If the body is in good shape with a good title it is probably worth the money. Most of the other stuff will probably need replaced or rebuild.

Some peoples idea of a 'little rust' can vary GREATLY. A clean body will make your lift WAY easier if you decide to modify it.
i definatly agree with somenes "little rust" just never know i have seen pics and am waiting on more
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok just talked to the guy again and he said most of the frame still has paint on it only serfice rust here and there and no holes in the body just a few spots of serfice rust so looks like ill be owning a jeep again sat..
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool. Post pictures when you bring it home....
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OP, check your pm's.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Here's some pictures from the OP:



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Old 03-22-2013, 06:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's some pictures from the OP:




thanks for posting the pics i dont have it yet but they texted me these pics so thought i would get you guyses thoughts on the jeep? after seeing pics still think the 1300 range is a decent deal it runs but isnt drivable im sure after sitting for so long lol
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:20 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The windshield frames and the floors are notorious for rust. If you get there and see it in person and they are as rust free as they look, I'd feel ok spending 1300 but would offer 1k and see if they bite.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah kinda what i thought when i first talked to the guy he said price was negotiable so I'm hoping to get it for a grand
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Just for perspective: I've paid $1000 for a clean tub alone. If those fenders are in good shape they're priceless. You cannot get a reflectorless (prior to 70 / 71) fender that is worth using, because I've sent them back. That rollbar looks like a factory AMC 72 thru 75. You'll want a 69 and newer windshield with wipers on the bottom. Most likely it will need a new wiring harness.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Just for perspective: I've paid $1000 for a clean tub alone. If those fenders are in good shape they're priceless. You cannot get a reflectorless (prior to 70 / 71) fender that is worth using, because I've sent them back. That rollbar looks like a factory AMC 72 thru 75. You'll want a 69 and newer windshield with wipers on the bottom. Most likely it will need a new wiring harness.
yeah im pretty confedent ill come home with it tomorrow lol and yeah on the wirering after sitting for that long ill be going through a lot of things before it hits the road or trail prob a disk break front (no point in spending $ on reworking the drums) im guessing new gas tank brake lines maybe master cyl wheel cyl on back who knows lol do those have a hydro clutch? or mechanical ? and why change the whinshield just for two wiper blades and power? isnt that one vac?
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:34 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Vacuum wipers are notoriously unreliable. The clutch should be mechanical which can give you issues when flexed out. Look into a chain setup or a hydro conversion.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:48 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Vacuum wipers are notoriously unreliable. The clutch should be mechanical which can give you issues when flexed out. Look into a chain setup or a hydro conversion.
yeah i figured on the vacuum wipers they deff need to go and figured on the clutch link being mechanical but didnt think about the flexing issue wow i need to do some reading up lol

thanks again for all the info and help guys..
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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All I was saying is that the 69 thru 75 windshield has the best wiper system and are plentiful. Keep an eye out, and you can probably pick one up for the price of a new motor for the one you have now. Mine's a daily driver I need when it snows, so I use my wipers.

Look for frame cracking on passenger side where the front crossmember meets the C channel. The pictures show a clean original. The original frames were designed to flex. That's why they're riveted, and not welded. It's always better to start with something clean. The heater appears to be aftermarket, because it would be on drivers side near the column.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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All I was saying is that the 69 thru 75 windshield has the best wiper system and are plentiful. Keep an eye out, and you can probably pick one up for the price of a new motor for the one you have now. Mine's a daily driver I need when it snows, so I use my wipers.

Look for frame cracking on passenger side where the front crossmember meets the C channel. The pictures show a clean original. The original frames were designed to flex. That's why they're riveted, and not welded. It's always better to start with something clean. The heater appears to be aftermarket, because it would be on drivers side near the column.
ok thanks for the heads up on the frame and will do on the windshield
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:44 PM   #22 (permalink)
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well brought it home today the tub is in really good shape front fenders are very nice frame looks good but there is always a but... no brakes (not that i am suprised) shifter moves but doesnt feel right tcase shifters are very stiff. not sure if the clutch works at all and i thought when i talked to the guy he said that the po died and 96 and the jeep had been sitting since then i miss heard it was 86 lol got home too late to get more pics and supposed to get like 6-10 inches of snow tomorrow lol

so questions
im sure the master cylender is shot so is it worth trying to buy one or should i just go ahead and swap to hanging pedels and upgrade the master cyl now? and if so how much work is that and what is a good doner master cyl and pedels i do have a xj master cyl well whole jeep that i am parting out and if i do a disk break swap what is the best doner/parts to use? ill search too but never hurts to ask thanks
o on another good not suposidly the engine was a gm crate motor when it was put in and doesnt have many miles on it the tank is out of the jeep but i did hear it run with a gas can and engine sounds good
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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At this point, the brake upgrade is the first tip in the domino stack. First you want to upgrade the master, then you want hanging w/ power. Well, now you'll want disks.

It really depends what you want to do with it. I tried hanging pedals and drums and it felt like a crappy setup. Did the disk brake front swap and it feels 10x better
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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yeah im thinking for now to just rob the xj brake pedal and master cyl. see how that feels but will deff do the disk on fronts

also i did end up getting it for a grand and im thinking its so rust free because its from AZ
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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what gears are in this stock gears? i have looked and looked and cant find it
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