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Old 06-20-2013, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Getting rid of the oil bath air cleaner

Hope im posting this in the right spot...

I have a Kaiser/Willys CJ5 with the 4 cyl hurricane engine still in it. It currently has the stock oil bath breather. I've tried searching online all over to see if there was a way to get rid of it and run a different carb (2bbl preferred?) with a normal air filter. If anyone know of a place that sells a carb i can use please let me know.

Thanks,
Wes
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Measure the neck of the carb and see if you can find an airfilter with that size opening. Then band clamp it in place. I found one in the parts store here for my old flatty.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I just put a small filter ontop of the carb. As for another carb that you can place on there, no clue.



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Old 06-20-2013, 10:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wspen12 View Post
Hope im posting this in the right spot...

I have a Kaiser/Willys CJ5 with the 4 cyl hurricane engine still in it. It currently has the stock oil bath breather. I've tried searching online all over to see if there was a way to get rid of it and run a different carb (2bbl preferred?) with a normal air filter. If anyone know of a place that sells a carb i can use please let me know.

Thanks,
Wes
Wes,

My wagon originally had the 6 226 with the oil bath. The way I updated the 1 barrel carb and oil bath cleanly to a holley 2bbl and filter was the use of an adapter plate I bought at the now defunct Super Shops. You should be able to find that adapter at Summit or O'Reilly's. I briefly looked at Summit and it looks like its just a spacer and I don't remember it being $45. What the dollar worth tumbles to every 20 years is downright criminal. Not sure if I even have it still. Make sure it has 4 series of bolts that go to the manifold and the four bolts from the carb go to the adapter. The hardest part of this was figuring out the linkage to the carb as the throttle lever from the drivers side to passenger side. You may decide to go from linkage to cable and change out the pedal to.

example...
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/tran...FUei4AodwkAAKA
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks fellas! I'll look around and see what I come up with. Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you want to go up to a 2 barrel carb, one I have considered is a weber 32/36. They do make a kit, but I assume it's a bit generic since I believe it's intended for both the L and F head. (weber kit K 553).

Weber K553 - Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor for 45-69 Jeep® with 4 Cylinder (134c.i.) & L or F Style Heads - Quadratec

I kinda think this might be a little too much carburetor for these engines, but... maybe with some tuning it could work out well. One of my friends has had good success with it on his Scout slant 4 (I think it's 152ci?); he did have to do some tuning and read some books to really get it working well but that's true of any carb.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Didn't people used to run pinto carbs on these? It's still on one barrel IIRC but a better carb.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbrecht42 View Post
If you want to go up to a 2 barrel carb, one I have considered is a weber 32/36. They do make a kit, but I assume it's a bit generic since I believe it's intended for both the L and F head. (weber kit K 553).

Weber K553 - Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor for 45-69 Jeep® with 4 Cylinder (134c.i.) & L or F Style Heads - Quadratec

I kinda think this might be a little too much carburetor for these engines, but... maybe with some tuning it could work out well. One of my friends has had good success with it on his Scout slant 4 (I think it's 152ci?); he did have to do some tuning and read some books to really get it working well but that's true of any carb.
I thought about that carb. Its one I was looking at. Don't these get used on Suzuki Samurai's also? If that is the case I would think it would be fine putting on the hurricane engine because its larger than the samurai engine (I think). Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, people have used these on suzuki's as well and they are small, 1.3L for a sami (about 79ci).

I guess the thing that bugs me is that just running the numbers it doesn't seem that optimal... a generic CFM calculation for our engine would be something like CI/2*Max RPM/1728*volumetric efficiency... which would be something like 134/2*4000/1728*.85 = 132CFM (I'm guessing at the VE number), but even at 100 it would only be 155CFM.

Your stock carb has (I think) a 1.33" bore (34mm) (I think L head is 1.25" or 32mm), which generally seems to work out to around 200 CFM (this is very general swag, I got it from looking at some other published numbers for similar sized carbs).. so it should be enough...

That weber being a 32/36 (1.25"/1.42") is about double that.. it seems like overkill to me. But since you would mostly operate on just the main 32mm side, it probably will drive just fine..I would be really curiuos to see what the AFR are like running WOT.

I've recently gone through tuning/rebuilding my Carter WO carb and adding a wideband O2 sensor (link). Now that I know it and understand it I think it's not bad. And I think your carb (Carter YF?) is a little bit better design. There's a little info here but I'm sure there's oodles more out there if you dig for it. I was flat amazed at the info I found on my the WO, I came across an awesome tech manual from the 1950's explaining theory of operation and details about the carb I hadn't seen anywhere else (link).

Some other options I've been looking at..

Harley "CV" carb (google harley carb suzuki)

Motorcraft/autolite 1100 carb link

Motorcraft/autolite 2100 carb in the (impossible to find) .98 bore size (try 1962 Fairlane 221) more info

Holley 1904 (link (old scouts used these) (I believe this is also the special low profile carb that people used back in the day to fit an F head under a 2a/3a hood)

Weber 34 ICH (1 barrel carb designed to be run in pairs on VW motors).

There is also the Solex 34mm that you can get from just about any jeep supplier, IMO I would keep looking. I ran the 32mm one for awhile and while it did some things well (cold starts for example) I never was that happy with it. But I never did tune it or find any decent info on how to tune the carb either. My biggest complaint is that I had problems with my jeep randomly shutting off all the time, fuel draining issues (manifold and engine was always full of raw gas); in short I think the ones available from Omix are poorly made or at least mine was.

For air cleaners, I just adapted an AEM air filter to my stock hose.


I think it looks like crap and plan to put a paper element in a stock filter housing when I get around to it. paper filter conversion and dry filter adapter

If your filter is the stock one it is probably different, but I think there are similar things you can do, might be some details on the CJ3B page. I have one of the Donaldson style aircleaners (like came on some F heads) and had planned to gut it and weld a flange/fitting/adapter inside so that I could mount that AEM inside it. I never did finish that up and lost interest when I found a salvageable Oakes style air cleaner.

Speaking of Donaldson, they make some very trick modern filters that kind of look like that stock style, it might be worth looking at, but I think they're kinda spendy.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the good bit of info guys. For now I think I will just got with either putting a filter on top of the carb or I'm just going to take out the guts of the oil bath breather and put a filter on it. I want to keep the original look for now. It will be the cheaper route for me as I have other purchases to take care of before I jump off spending $400 on a carb. Again Thanks for all the options you guys gave me. This is my first build/resto of any ride.
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