Ok so my thought was for the little quick questions that can be answered pretty quick instead of searching for hours and loosing time on the builds
1 Question anyone know the width of a 7/8 heim? more specifically from the hole center to the outer edge opposite the shank. Looking to see if it will hit my rim when mounted before buying one. Could save me 30 bucks
2 do you guys weld these to the front of the bumper or cut a hole and weld on the back and front.
I'd throw a vote in for PRP seats. They have a 'drain' option now in the bottom that would be really handy in a open flat fender. They offer is with the side by side size seats and will add conventional tabs or mounts to whatever frame you want.
I have the corabeau seats for the last 8 yrs with no problem. Still work and have held up great. I have the vinyl and cloth combo suspension seats. Just bought in for the rear for my son! No problems here
So I have a few things that I want to TIG weld with 220 power. I only have 110 power at home, but a few friends of mine have 220 like for their drier, or in their garage.
However, the plugs don't look like what I have on my machine (my machine is dual voltage). I need to find a wall plug that looks like this,
Can they be adapted, or what's the best way to go about plugging into 220 when the connections don't match?
Regular 110 on the left, and the 220 plug from my machine on the right. It looks like just an double-sized 110 plug.
Just go to Home Depot. Bring the plugs if you can. They have all sorts of electrical plugs to choose from. Buy some of the bulk wire and make an adapter if you need too! Be relatively cheap.
It's possible that you have 220V service but no outlets in your garage. Turn off each and every breaker in your panel, and carefully map out which breakers go to which garage outlets. If you have outlets reasonably close to each other which are controlled by breakers on different sides of the bus bars in the breaker box, you can also make a cable for home. Use a socket that fits your welder plug. Connect two 110V plugs, wire the hot side from one to one of the blades, and the hot side from the other one to the other blade. Tie the grounds together and run them to the round pin. Tie the neutrals together, insulate and fold them back out of the way. Use a meter and show that you have 220V between the blades, and 110V between each blade and the ground pin. Some newer 4-wire 220V plugs would use the neutrals, but that isn't what you have.
When I was in grad school my landlady told me to "go ahead and get that clothes dryer" I had asked her about, her electrician would put in an outlet for me. When it became obvious that no such oulet would be coming, I fabricated a jumper cable of this type, and nothing was ever said about it. Although I am quite sure that it doesn't meet any electrical code anywhere, it worked fine.
I talked to my landlord way back a few years ago about getting 220 put in, but he said I'd probably be fine welding the things I'm welding with 110 (for my furniture and stuff, that's true!). I'll bring it up with him again next time I see him, I told him I'd gladly pay for the electrician's bill to have it put in properly. I don't want to mickey-mouse anything on the house, I'd rather just have it done properly by an electrician, electricity scares me :laughing: Especially after our neighbors house caught fire a few weeks ago due to bad wiring in the attic. It didn't burn down, but it burned pretty good.
Just go to Home Depot. Bring the plugs if you can. They have all sorts of electrical plugs to choose from. Buy some of the bulk wire and make an adapter if you need too! Be relatively cheap.
As Mykul said, buy one of those receptacles to fit your welder and a male plug to fit your friend's socket, and wire it up with some awg12 or heavier for use at your friends' place.
It's possible that you have 220V service but no outlets in your garage. Turn off each and every breaker in your panel, and carefully map out which breakers go to which garage outlets. If you have outlets reasonably close to each other which are controlled by breakers on different sides of the bus bars in the breaker box, you can also make a cable for home. Use a socket that fits your welder plug. Connect two 110V plugs, wire the hot side from one to one of the blades, and the hot side from the other one to the other blade. Tie the grounds together and run them to the round pin. Tie the neutrals together, insulate and fold them back out of the way. Use a meter and show that you have 220V between the blades, and 110V between each blade and the ground pin. Some newer 4-wire 220V plugs would use the neutrals, but that isn't what you have.
When I was in grad school my landlady told me to "go ahead and get that clothes dryer" I had asked her about, her electrician would put in an outlet for me. When it became obvious that no such oulet would be coming, I fabricated a jumper cable of this type, and nothing was ever said about it. Although I am quite sure that it doesn't meet any electrical code anywhere, it worked fine.
Would a small vacuum leAk cause a MAP code to pop up? Code P0107 on my 4.3
I'm sick of throwing money at this thing hoping it will fix it. I did tap into the intake and install a nipple for the vacuum modulator line going to my TH350. The tranny shifts like it should, so I don't think it's the vacuum module.
The engine is running like crap. Stalling, hard starting like its flooding, and seriously lacking power.
So I was practicing on cutting the openings with a plasma cutter and a 4.5' angle grinder. my question is when using the grinder the cuts that go past where I need open can those just be welded shut? Also I was thinking of cutting the back hole a little bigger and then welding the mount to a plate then sticking the mount through and welding the plate on the backside to the bumper or should I just protrude it a little and weld or make it flush and weld and then around the mount on the front. Is that over kill? Every pic is upside down for some dumb reason but it doesn't matter. Thanks
So I was practicing on cutting the openings with a plasma cutter and a 4.5' angle grinder. my question is when using the grinder the cuts that go past where I need open can those just be welded shut? Also I was thinking of cutting the back hole a little bigger and then welding the mount to a plate then sticking the mount through and welding the plate on the backside to the bumper or should I just protrude it a little and weld or make it flush and weld and then around the mount on the front. Is that over kill? Every pic is upside down for some dumb reason but it doesn't matter. Thanks
I used them on my last buggy and will be using them on the willys.
How I did it was a plate welded to the end of the shackle mount, slide it through from the back and welded the plate and the front. This way it has a ton of surface area and can never pull through.
That said..I'm pretty hard on things so I tend to over build :homer:
Thanks for the seat input. I'm torn between the twisted stitch seats and the corbeau. I have twisted stitch seats in my buggy and do love them.
I used them on my last buggy and will be using them on the willys.
How I did it was a plate welded to the end of the shackle mount, slide it through from the back and welded the plate and the front. This was it has a ton of surface area and can never pull through.
That said..I'm pretty hard on things so I tend to over build :homer:
Thanks for the seat input. I'm torn between the twisted stitch seats and the corbeau. I have twisted stitch seats in my buggy and do love them.
I think I'm abusing this thread but I love the dialog,
What are you guys with 9 slot grills doing for your replacement headlights and turns? I'd like to keep it set back but go more modern at the same time, led turns probably
I had also saw a build with a led black out light on the driver fender, was that new or modified?
Other thoughts are guages, looking at GPS speedometers, anyone do a set of nice ones th a time have held up?
I have KC driving lights on mine. THey seem to work fine, accept for the plastic mounting bracket for them, they tend to slowly creep out of aim, I have to adjust them every week or so. Wish it were metal, maybe I can come up with something.
I got a question. I'd like to wire up an hour-meter to my jeep. I don't want to have it trigger from my main power switch, because sometimes I accidentally leave it on when I shut the motor off. My thought was that I could have the hour-meter run off of the alternator charge wire that goes back to the battery. But then I realized, since it's attached to the battery, there would always be power there anyway.
Any thoughts or ideas? I have heard of some hours meters on tractors being triggered by oil pressure. I'm not sure I'd like to go that route, as far as I know the only oil pressure port is already being used by my oil pressure gauge. I could probably put in a T-fitting, but not sure if that's a good idea or not??
I have a 1 wire alt. ALthough there is one or maybe 2 other studs that look like they might be some sort of power connectors? I'm not sure, I'd have to look at it again.
[QUOT E=Mykul;24834914]Do you guys run the flat or domed lights in the MB GRILLE[/QUOTE]
I'd like to find flat. Looks better IMO. For turns I have stock front 09 HD street glide
I ran led flush mount lights. They only have a single wire, but I used a trailer light converter and was able to have parking lights and turn signals all in one.
I actually used two trailer converters, one wired liked this How to Add Turn Signals and Wire Them Up and for the front, I wired the parking light wire to brake light in wire. I then conected the blinker wires to the lights. It works great!
I used a clear lens domed glass high/low beam aircraft lights in original blackout buckets without the black out cover. My turn signals are a simple trailer marker light.
I'm looking for an upright bandsaw, MOSTLY for metal, I have a decent scroll saw for wood work. I don't need a huge band saw, I'm mostly thinking about using it for cutting straight angles into thicker metal. For thin metal, i have a throat-less sheer, but once I get to about 1/8" thick, it's not really usefull. For 1/8" flat bar, the sheer is fine. But for 1/8" sheet/plate, it's just to much really.
More thinking the bandsaw would be used for small-ish ornamental pieces, I've got a bunch of ideas of things I want to cut out and weld together. I was thinking a small-medium sized upright that is a bench-top model might work well.
Aaany way. How do I tell if a band saw is meant to cut metal or not? Or if it CAN cut metal or not. Is it just a matter of what blade is used on the saw? Or do I need to make sure the machine can go slow enough for metal? I see a bunch of bandsaws on craigslist, but most of them don't mention if they are for metal or wood or both.
Personally I wouldn't know what to do without my harbor freight bandsaw. It does horizontal stuff and then converts to vertical with two screws to mount the small table....
I assume that a metal cutting blade can be put on pretty much any band saw? If a bandsaw is labled "wood working", does simply changing out the blade make it work good for metal, or is there more to it?
I would probably be using the band saw in the up-right position most of the time. Does the HF bandsaw work well in this configuration? When I read about it, most folks seem to use it horizontally, not vertically. I think I'd want something with a miter guide and fence for vertical work.
Aluminum can be cut faster, but in general you want less than 100 ft/min blade speed for mild steel. Chromoly and tool steel need about half that.
I use my HF bandsaw in the vertical position a lot, but it is a compromise. I have made a LOT of stuff with it though. There is a grove in the vertical table for a miter guide. The biggest limiting factor is the throat depth.
A fill size vertical saw would be better with a bigger table and more throat depth. It comes with a price and will take up more space. If its suppose to fit on a bench I don't think your going to get much better than the HF saw.
Don't underestimate how handy it is to have the saw be able to do cut off work. It is very productive to be able to just set it and forget it. There is a depth stop which is handy for repeats. You can set the clamp for angles. I don't know what your using now for that kind of stuff, but it is WAY better than an abrasive chop saw....cleaner, blade lasts WAY longer, quieter, etc.
speed makes a big difference when cutting. A wood saw with a metal cutting blade would need to be slowed down. Most likely now a problem as most quality saws have step pulleys on them just for this.
Another little question. I'm looking for a power switch that will let power pass through it for from the moment you hit it and continues to let power pass through it for a short while after it's depressed, then automatically turns off maybe 10-20 seconds later.
Does anything like that exist? Basically a toggle switch that automatically turns itself off after a short amount of time. The amount of time isn't really critical, just so long as it's more than a few seconds.
I was wanting something that doesn't have to be held down while actually starting the vehicle. The idea that the switch could be casually depressed, I could then take my time buckling my seat belt and what not, then just hit the ignition. Someone seeing me start up the jeep would only see my hand on the ignition when it's being started.
And when I turn the vehicle off, I don't have to turn the switch off again, I just shut the motor down and hop out. Anyone seeing me pulling into a parking lot and turning the vehicle off wouldn't have any idea where the switch is, because I don't have to hit it when I shut the vehicle off.
I was wanting something that doesn't have to be held down while actually starting the vehicle. The idea that the switch could be casually depressed, I could then take my time buckling my seat belt and what not, then just hit the ignition. Someone seeing me start up the jeep would only see my hand on the ignition when it's being started.
And when I turn the vehicle off, I don't have to turn the switch off again, I just shut it down and hop out. Anyone seeing me pulling into a parking lot and turning the vehicle off wouldn't have any idea where the switch is, because I don't have to hit it when I shut the vehicle off.
You have a mechanical diesel. All they really have to do is bypass the fuel shut off, cable or electric, and jump the starter solenoid. Or roll/push/pull start it.
I just got one from Amazon exact same one as on Keizer Willys page but 180 it's great Willys stamp too. But a day later found on jeephut for 30 cheaper
I'd think if you used the 2a foot starter button for the starter and keep your fuel shutoff thing, it will be pretty hard for the average person to figure out how to start it. You could leave your start button in place, maybe label it 'start', but hook it up to an air horn under the dash.
I'd think if you used the 2a foot starter button for the starter and keep your fuel shutoff thing, it will be pretty hard for the average person to figure out how to start it. You could leave your start button in place, maybe label it 'start', but hook it up to an air horn under the dash.
Just hook that button up to the horn under the hood. or find another electric horn and put it under the dash, LOL that would be funny Much better than an alarm too, it's got a pretty destinctive sound to it, and it would only go off if someone were trying to start it. I could probably hook it up to a relay or something that would keep the horn blasting until another less obvious button or switch is hit, or maybe find a timer that would let it go for 20 seconds or something. Would probably have very little false positives like most other car alarms have! I hate car alarms for that reason.
Regardless though, I think I'll do that, it's a funny idea At least label it ENGINE START clearly, and have it hooked up to toot the horn. If nothing else, it'll be funny the first time I let someone try and drive it, or heaven forbid I take it through a valet at a restaurant
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