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Old 10-12-2009, 04:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVARAS View Post
This is 34" center to center of the frame rails.
I went with that measure, beacause Im using Wagoneer 44s (34" is the distance from center to center on the spring pads). Also it gave me the clearence I need to run the stock 5.3 headers.
For me, it looks ok...
BTW, I used 2"x4"x.120 for the frame.

With that wide of a frame, and those shock hoops.. have you cycled it to see if you clear shocks? I am guessing they are going to hit on the compressed side...
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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With that wide of a frame, and those shock hoops.. have you cycled it to see if you clear shocks? I am guessing they are going to hit on the compressed side...
Yes it cleared the shocks, but I relocated the mounts on the axles.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info so far! I plan on using the ford f250 mount, for the upper shock mounts.
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:37 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Update, I have been working on my axles (very slow) and picking up some more parts at the wrecking yard.

Tomorrow, I am shipping my passenger side dodge flat top knuckle to http://www.jnutter.com/

My rear scout d44 is getting disc brakes. I have the 91 chevy rotors drilled for 5 on 5.5 and mounted. I am waiting for the afco weld on caliper bracket to arrive. here is the post I used for how to get rear disc brakes on a d44 http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/s...ead.php?t=2889

Once I get the axles finished, I can start my frame. I picked up a set of dodge 1/2 ton leaf springs for the front of my willys, with an 8" offset. 23"x31" they have 3 leafs plus an overload. I am going to remove the flat overload leaf. I still need to decide on the rear leafs.

I also picked up a 1997 chevy s10 steering box. I was looking for a full size inside frame mount box and could not find one. I Think the s10 box will be ok for 36" - 38" tires, what do you guys think?

Last edited by 1946CJ2; 10-25-2009 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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That box will work fine. I used a camaro box originally on my M38, but I ended up going to a waggy box because the camaro box steered way too fast.
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:30 PM   #31 (permalink)
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you could do this
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Old 10-25-2009, 05:30 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I also picked up a stock chevy bell housing, with a factory clutch slave on the passenger side. Would anyone know what year this might be off of. I was told they only made it for 2 years, I just do not know which years. I need to find a rebuild kit or new clutch slave for it. I think it may be past the point of a rebuild.

That frame would be pretty trick, but it would be above my build level.
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:21 PM   #33 (permalink)
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i got enought tube to build two of these....
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=1946CJ2;10490647]I also picked up a stock chevy bell housing, with a factory clutch slave on the passenger side. Would anyone know what year this might be off of. I was told they only made it for 2 years, I just do not know which years. I need to find a rebuild kit or new clutch slave for it. I think it may be past the point of a rebuild.
QUOTE]

Its prolly off an '88 to '95 chevy, they had passenger side slaves with the new body style. Make sure it bolts to the tranny you are wanting to use though, there are a couple of different bellhousing face patterns depending on the tranny it goes to.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:51 PM   #35 (permalink)
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well, my brackets came in today for my rear disc brakes. The calipers are from a 1985 cadillac.

I also got my passenger side knuckle back from J. Nutter. He had a very fast turn around time and the work looks great. If I can pick up my ball joints tomorrow, I can get the front axle put back together.

That means Once the axles are finished, I can start on my Frame.


I did have to grind about 1/4" off the bracket, to get it to fit.



I set the calipers at 50* with the pinion at 0*.


with the disc's installed the wms to wms is 58.5" on for the rear scout D44.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:27 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I finished my scout 2 dana 44 front axle, with machined dodge flat top knuckles. The wms to wms is 61". I was able to keep the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. I am going down today to buy the steel for the frame. I am still trying to make up my mind between 1/8" and 3/16" 2x4 steel.

I like the lighter weight of the 1/8", but I have a habit of overkill. This makes me want the 3/16".
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:29 AM   #37 (permalink)
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After you trash those D44s and get a14bt and D60 and 42s then 47s and a Atlas or 203/205 doubler and so on you'll thank yourself for going 3/16"
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:51 PM   #38 (permalink)
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When I got to the metal shop, I decided to get the 1/8"x2x4 with 3/16" for the gussets and straps. For 2- 20' sticks of 2x4 steel and the strapping material cost $140.00. I did not think that was to bad.

I also stopped by my father-in-laws wrecking yard and picked up some more supplies. A set of steel rims and 4- f150 leaf springs. I like the idea of having all 4 springs the same. That way I only need one size spare.

Question: Once I get my stacked frame built, I plan on the springs being mounted at the bumpers. How do I determine the best angle of the shackle? I have seen alot of different and extreme angles in my search of the forums.

The 4 springs that I picked up are all ford f150's 56", 4+1 leafs (I plan on removing the overload leaf) 2-1/2" wide, and 1655# load (according to http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png). The springs are 25"x32" from the pin center to the eye center, and 52 3/4" eye center to eye center.

Question: What is a good length for the frame to stick out, in front of my grill?

Thanks,
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:36 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I finished my frame rails.

I have 8" of over lap on the stacked frame rail.



the diamond plates are 4x4x1/4" plate



the straps top and bottom are 2x8x3/16" flat.


I plan on using the 2x4x.120" for the rear cross member. What do you guys think about using the 2x4x.120" for the front and rear bumbers? The front cross member/bumper will be welded between the two front frame rails. The rear bumber will we welded to the rear of the frame rails,and have shackle mounts welded to the bumper.

the below pics are what I want my bumpers to look like



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Old 11-20-2009, 01:22 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Maybe a moderator could move my thread to the non-hardcore section. That way, I may get someone to answer some of my questions.

Building my own cj2a from the ground up is pretty hardcore for me, but I guess I have to basic of questions for this forum. I would like to Thank the users that have answered some of my basic questions, so far. This is my first ever build and I spend alot of time searching and reading this forum. The searches would be alot easier if I did not have to read read 30 posts of telling someone to search, vs just answering their question. I guess I do not understand that concept!

Thanks,
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:17 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Rodney, Just call me. Ill try and answer all your questions.
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:42 AM   #42 (permalink)
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My front bumper on my flaty is 2x4. If you cut it open it will slide onto the 2x3 then when you weld it up its a solid crossmember. Some of your pics are red X's and I would like to see them.

The length in front of the grill depends on how long you want your wheel base and what length springs you use. I think the F150 springs are to long to be usefull but thats just my opinion. With that length spring you will have a lot of over hang in front of the front tires and behind the back tires.

On flat springs I like my shackle to be a 30 ~ 40 degree angle away from the fixed end of the spring. Since when they stuff and go into a negative arch they dont move very far, but on droop the can arch alot and shackle will go to vetical or even negative angle. With deeper arch springs they need to be more vertical. Because as the springs compress they get longer and when the shackle angle is already steep it stops further compression.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:33 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Well, I got some more done on my frame. I was worried it was going to twist or tweak while I was welding it, however, from corner to corner the mesurements came out the same.

I got upset, when I first started because my small band saw would not cut a 45* angle in 4" material. I could only cut a 40* angle, but had to cut a 90* first.


Once I cut my material, I had to decide how I was going to keep it straight. I use c-clamps and clamped to a piece of 2x4 tube.


after I made the first rail and checked it for being straight. I clamped the second rail to the first rail to be tacked and then welded.


I decided to make my front and rear bumpers out of 2x4x3/16" tube. It may be over kill, but then I also used 3x4x1/4" angle iron to gusset the 4 corners on the inside.

I rattle canned some black paint, over the welded areas.






I also put a 1/4" plate gusset on the front of the frame too.




I still need to put the rear cross member in. I am not for sure if I want to use a full 2x4 tube for the cross member, or go with round tube/pipe drilled and welded through the frame. I also need to decide if I build my own leaf spring mounts or order some. What size and type tubing do you use for shackle mounts through the frame?

This will be a slow build, but I am doing all the labor by myself.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:54 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Another question: I have ford f150 springs for the the rear. I am undecided on the front springs. I have 4-f150 springs, but they may be to long for the front. I was looking into the 7 leaf waggy springs, and then I found a post that said, the 44044 are less than 1" different in height over the hd 7 leaf waggys.

I do not want to be to tall for my 36" tires, but most of the flat leaf springs that I see being used on builds simalar to mine, have the front spring mount down around 3 to 4" below the frame. If I made my front spring mount for the 44044 up close to the frame would it sit close to the same as the flat spring builds with a long spring mount?
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:00 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Looks really nice...keep on the good work
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:26 PM   #46 (permalink)
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looks good bud i am getting started on mine also so how wide did you end up going on your. I am thinking about making my frame 36" wide out side to out side to make it easier to fit my 60/14.
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Old 12-05-2009, 12:00 AM   #47 (permalink)
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the frame is 33 1/2" outside to outside, to fit my front axle. Svaras' build is 34" center to center, which should be 36" outside to outside.

Last edited by 1946CJ2; 12-05-2009 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 12-05-2009, 12:40 AM   #48 (permalink)
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thanks yeah i didnt even think about adding

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Old 12-05-2009, 02:08 PM   #49 (permalink)
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I do not want to be to tall for my 36" tires, but most of the flat leaf springs that I see being used on builds simalar to mine, have the front spring mount down around 3 to 4" below the frame. If I made my front spring mount for the 44044 up close to the frame would it sit close to the same as the flat spring builds with a long spring mount?



You can look into frenching the spring hangers if you don't want to be too tall.

With your style of frame a frenched shackle forward design in the front would be nice. A shackle reversal would be tricky tucking up the shackle end unless you outboard.

I like the wide frame, more room for exhaust but, the only disadvantage is I guess you can't really outboard to keep a leaf sprung suspension as low as possible.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:23 AM   #50 (permalink)
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