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Old 03-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Haven't updates for a long time. Figured I owe one to you guys.

I finished boxing the center section of the frame, re-did a few welds that I didn't like, fixed the rear bumper, and painted it OD green (not rattle can). I used a 140 Lincoln Mig with 0.35 flux core using a push techique. Not sure if I noted either that I bought a set of 35x15.5-15 tires with nicer wheels for the Jeep.

Some notes to add on what I learned:

Rattle cans SUCK compared to using a spray gun. I sprayed the whole frame and it came out superb, nice even coat and dried SUPER hard unlike rattle cans do.





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Old 03-02-2010, 01:31 PM   #77 (permalink)
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coming up really nice. I definitely miss my first Willys. Had so much rust that probably already became dust by now
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:33 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:11 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geberhard View Post
coming up really nice. I definitely miss my first Willys. Had so much rust that probably already became dust by now
Hey thanks a ton for moving the thread man!

Yeah it's hard to find a decent willys nowadays. Was lucky enough to find this tub, floor boards are so so, but repairable!
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:15 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I see another Graham´s MB Clone
Keep on the good work !!

Graham´s


Mine


Yours
What kind of leafs are you guys using to get the front axle that far forward?

Are the rears XJ's on your's?

or are these jeeps linked? guess my eyes are not as good as they used to be

Last edited by CjAl; 03-02-2010 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:44 PM   #81 (permalink)
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The first one (Grahams) and mine are using YJ leaf springs. Mine will actually have an offset pin 1-2" forward.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Mine (second one) has Waggy fronts mounted backwards ( center pin is offset), and stock rear CJ7's in the back.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #83 (permalink)
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The first one (Grahams) and mine are using YJ leaf springs. Mine will actually have an offset pin 1-2" forward.
do you just redrill a new hole where you want it? doesn't that create a weak spot where the original hole is? or do you order them with the pin placed where you want it?

It looked like you had a bad angle on your front shackles, didn't look like even assembled it would stretch them to a good angle. Have you noticed this ?
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:08 PM   #84 (permalink)
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do you just redrill a new hole where you want it? doesn't that create a weak spot where the original hole is? or do you order them with the pin placed where you want it?

It looked like you had a bad angle on your front shackles, didn't look like even assembled it would stretch them to a good angle. Have you noticed this ?
Yeah I noticed that, I am not sure on how much it will flatten out. It's roughly the same as it was when the half way complete CJ2-a was sitting on it, which seemed to have a decent angle. I have to order custom springs from alcan anyways so I can stretch it a little if need be. I am going to put the front axle on and then once I get the rear ARB in and shafts I can mount that under the Jeep. I'll then test fit and make mounts for the body (body has all the mounts though), grill, fenders, etc. With weight on it I'll get to see the angle, I'll simulate (with wheights or something) the full loaded jeep and then see and order my springs.

And it would create a weak point if you re-drilled the exsisting springs. I am ordering a set from alcan, and since I am running SR I can offset the pin 1-2" safely, from what Alcan told me you couldn't do this unless you are SR. I know it is an issue though that I will have to address, I am figureing though with the weight of the winch/body/engine/hood/fender/grill/battery etc it will bring it back into play again. Ig not then I'll just run a little bit longer of a spring.
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- John Wooden RIP
"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."

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Old 03-05-2010, 06:53 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Looks sharp! Any 3/4, front, and rear views?
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:17 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Looks sharp! Any 3/4, front, and rear views?
Naw haven't drawn any up yet, I'll have to do it sometime or find a quicker way of doing it than total freehand.

On the Flatty I got more work done, put the diff cover filled with fluid and put her under the Jeep. It's all buttoned up now and the pads lined up perfectly. From past pictures when the rear axle was together it looks to be the same width, perfect! (I was worried I made the front to narrow). And for future refference to all debate, a scout rear axle IS 58" WMS.

I did discover something that just pissed me off so damn much, my frame is bent. How the hell did I not notice this???? Not a clue on how I missed it. It may be some weird optical illusion, so I grabbed a picture so yall can give me your opinions on it.

Also, Shackle angle, opinions? To me it looks like it won't be enough (as was expected). Figure I'll need about another 1/2" - 1" longer spring. And also the shackle hangers are off 1/8" from each other, is this too much? Should I cut and re-do the hangers? If so I'll do it at the same time I have the frame straightened.





Does the fawker look bent?
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"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."

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Old 03-07-2010, 09:23 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Trust me man, your tub is tweaked too, I think they were built that way..lol. I built my frame square as heck, measured all the body mounts, then made a mirror image for the other side of the frame......of course, only one side bolted up...i had to redo the entire passenger side body mounts. My entire tub is twisted and very "un-square" from front to back. It didnt have any previous damage or repairs, it was just built that way. I would run your frame the way it is.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:06 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Trust me man, your tub is tweaked too, I think they were built that way..lol. I built my frame square as heck, measured all the body mounts, then made a mirror image for the other side of the frame......of course, only one side bolted up...i had to redo the entire passenger side body mounts. My entire tub is twisted and very "un-square" from front to back. It didnt have any previous damage or repairs, it was just built that way. I would run your frame the way it is.
That's good to hear for me man! I did not want to have to pull all that crap apart again and fix it, have had enough hold ups and that would have been a total bummer.

What's your opinions on the hangers? I could get a better picture of the angle, but the hangers are off 1/8" from eachother and the shackle angle the way it's sitting with nothing on it is straight up and down. Whatcha think?
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:07 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I am doing the sheet metal work (16" stretch) on my 48 cj2. It was driving me nuts try to square a body that was never square to start with. I Talked to my friend that owns a body shop, and he said that if the body and frame was within a 1/2" of square, it is better than it was from the factory. My frame that I built is < 1/16th" within be square and the body I am just trying to get close to square.

you may already have this diagram, but if not:
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:11 PM   #90 (permalink)
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That's awesome man, I didn't have that diagram. Thanks! I'll have to grab some measurements tomorrow and compare. I'll keep my fingers crossed!

EDIT: Not sure even by measuring by that diagram I can find out if the frame is bent or not. Seems the true to death way would be take the front axle back off and lay the frame on the garage floor. I believe from what it looked like it was probable off by 1/2" to 1" bumper to bumper.
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”
- John Wooden RIP
"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."

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Old 03-08-2010, 04:34 AM   #91 (permalink)
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so it's tweaked a bit, at least when the engine torques over it will then straighten out. Get it on straight and level jackstands and see what it looks like. Since you don't have the front crossmember in there yet it can twist a little and look worse then it is. You need that other crossmember, so figure out where the radiator will go and then get it welded in and it should be pretty straight then.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:55 AM   #92 (permalink)
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so it's tweaked a bit, at least when the engine torques over it will then straighten out. Get it on straight and level jackstands and see what it looks like. Since you don't have the front crossmember in there yet it can twist a little and look worse then it is. You need that other crossmember, so figure out where the radiator will go and then get it welded in and it should be pretty straight then.
Okay sounds like a plan, and your right, it will straighten out under torque!

Okay so I'll just keep going, get the rear axle on and finished and assemble the body and find out where everything goes.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:14 AM   #93 (permalink)
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my frame was tweeked (twisted) about an inch front to back. I didn't worry about it because I figured it's a Jeep, not a road hugging sports car. You are going to twist the hell out of the frame anyway...right? It'll probably be tweeked the other way after a few times out. My 2 cents...
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:48 PM   #94 (permalink)
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What is the benefit of using the "stitch weld" when boxing the frame? Is that better than a solid bead?
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:07 PM   #95 (permalink)
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You stitch weld to minimize warping.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:11 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

This is a killer build!
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:51 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Looking like a nice build. I am looking forward to the finished product. Any updates and pictures?
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:36 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, here's a little update. Got the ARB on the ring gear today, cleaned up the housing and primered with red oxide. Next 7 days here I should have a rolling chassis.



Here are my new shafts, 35 spline dutchmans, compared to 30 spline stockers.

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Old 04-04-2010, 07:22 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Just want to confirm your new shafts are for a 44. Did you buy them from dutchmans web site or a dealer?
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:46 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Got them from Andrew at letzroll offroad, I can give you his number if you like. They're custom made, dutchman cuts and splines them.

And yup, for a D44.
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