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Old 12-25-2010, 05:21 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Looks like a good start, my frame looked the same, if not more tweaked when I got done boxing it all in. My rig ended up being a lot different from my original plans, I think I wish I built a frame from scratch. Mine has held up fine for a year with a fair share of wheelies, jumps, and flops. I'll let you know how it is in a few years if there is anything left at that point.

I used a column (wish it was tilt!), pedals, booster, and clutch master from an 81 CJ 7 in my flattie. I had to shorten the pedal arms and cut a box into the floor so they could fully swing. Cutting the pedals shorter messed with the pedal ratio for the brakes but it is not bad... I am going to put a bigger booster in this year. I made a plate that welded into the firewall and modded my dash. I think in one of the pics I am missing one bracket from the CJ7 because I lost it but I added it later on... everything bolts in with ease, as it would on a CJ7







I wound up boxing out to the edge of the tub, so it stopped interfering with the edge of my boot


Hope this helps, it did it a couple years ago when I was first buiding it and couldn't find anything like it... Good luck
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Old 12-27-2010, 07:09 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Hey Matt it's good to see you still plugging away on the rig. It's really looking good.
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:29 AM   #128 (permalink)
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That does help thanks! I am using the same colum as you, but may try a different pedal setup. Thanks Lee hope to get moving on this again, had off school for christmas.
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:16 PM   #129 (permalink)
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More work done


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Old 02-04-2011, 11:40 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Okay more of an update since I didn't have the time to say anything in my last post. Got the floor in on the tub, repaired all the rudt (except for one area behind the drivers seat on the riser, but it won't be seen and wasn't structural so I didnt see any point). All the welds came out great, me and my buddie are building this jeep now. Getting the fenders and hoot prepped for paint and sandblasting the windshield. Should be damn sexy, jeep makes me pitch a tent now. Here is a picture of the roll cage design I am going with...

I am going to run one solin tube from the front corner to the rear, allowing the jeep to slide on it and not get caught on a hoop. think it'll work out best although it will be about 2x the work as a 3 hoop design.

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Old 02-07-2011, 02:29 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Great build!
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:12 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Sweet build. I just acquired a 42 ford MB that already has a rear stretch in it. $3000 sight unseen. Hard to find any cheap willys in OZ! Lots of ideas I hope to borrow from this thread.

Loving your roll cage too!!!
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:37 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Hey guys, more work done, moving slow with this build between college girlfriend and work. Getting to the point where the engine needs to get in, and found a 1994 LT1 for $500 with everything on it, seems like a great deal. Anybody know how tight these engines are and if they will fit better than the 350 that was going in here?
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:50 PM   #134 (permalink)
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LT1 is a nice low profile engine with a 'distributor' on the front of the engine kind inline with the cam if I remember right. From what I remember they fit a little better than your standard SBC since they could be installed farther rearward.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:03 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Yeah because it seems like a screamin deal to me but I want to know without a doubt I can make it work. I have a friend that can do wiring for it, so it is more of a size concern. All I usually see is SBC carb engines in these things without being stretched. It is a great price if you ask me for a fuel enjected 300 HP engine in running shape. Another question.... Can I run almost open headers on this engine? I planned on just running outside the frame rail with my exhaust into glasspack and ending before the rear wheel, can I do this with fuel injection or does it cause a mis balance?

I owe this thread a few pictures as well I will throw some up as soon as I can.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:02 PM   #136 (permalink)
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The new powerplant.....


Fab work




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Old 11-17-2011, 03:16 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Nice! This is going to be sick!
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:32 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Hit a huge snag in the build, JB conversion stopped making an adapter..... Means I will not have enough room for my TH350/D300 combo...... SHIT. Anybody have suggestions????
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:52 PM   #139 (permalink)
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I would have to search, but I think you can use a stock adapter to late 80s early 90s transfer case. (this might have been for a 700r) it's been a while.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:59 PM   #140 (permalink)
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http://www.patooyee.com/350toatlas/350toatlas.htm
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:06 PM   #141 (permalink)
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http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...0+d300+adapter
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:17 PM   #142 (permalink)
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From what I remember that JB conversions adapter was REALLY short. They still make the 27 spline input for the D300 which is one of the key pieces.

You could probably have an aluminum adapter plate adapter to go from the 4 bolt pattern on the back of the TH350 to the D300 bolt pattern. I think it was rather tight with multiple clocking holes but it did fit.

I think Sunray Engineering also made an adapter like this. I want to say the adapter was only .75" thick? I think they are now closed with the owners passing.

I think Novak still has a 1.1" long adapter for the TH350 to np231 that might work? Doesn't a D300 bolt in place of a np231 in most cases?
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Thanks for those articles, read them and it still looks like my shortest bet is Novak.....

Such a bummer, damn it. I may end up stretching the willys like SVARAS did to make it all work. This shit never works out like you plan it too.
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:29 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Thanks for those articles, read them and it still looks like my shortest bet is Novak.....

Such a bummer, damn it. I may end up stretching the willys like SVARAS did to make it all work. This shit never works out like you plan it too.
The stretch is to make room for the fan/radiator.
For the same reason, you will set your engine as far back as you can (normally you leave 1-1.5" of clearance with the firewall).
So, as you can see, the lenght of the rear driveshaft has no relation with the stretch (at list in my case).
The combo TH350/Novak/D300 still lets you have a decent drive shaft, its a tight fit, but it can be done....I have no vibration problems.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:52 PM   #145 (permalink)
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The stretch is to make room for the fan/radiator.
For the same reason, you will set your engine as far back as you can (normally you leave 1-1.5" of clearance with the firewall).
So, as you can see, the lenght of the rear driveshaft has no relation with the stretch (at list in my case).
The combo TH350/Novak/D300 still lets you have a decent drive shaft, its a tight fit, but it can be done....I have no vibration problems.
Noice! That is the info I needed. I will plan on buying the novak adapter then and working it that way. Makes my night , thanks bud.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:49 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Stak has the thin adaptor like the JB one
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:31 AM   #147 (permalink)
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You just saved me so much hassle. Thank you a ton bud, ordering it now.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:21 PM   #148 (permalink)
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DONE. Bought the parts, all should be here by late next week.

Novak twin shifters + boot
Novak Master Rebuild kit
JB conversions Lomax 4:1
Stak D300-TH350 adapter

Psyched, the adapter is only 1.5" long, exactly what I needed. Should work out great and give me that needed drive-shaft length.
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Willys Build http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=824952

If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?
- John Wooden RIP
"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."

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Old 11-29-2011, 04:06 PM   #149 (permalink)
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I'm using TH350/Dana 300 combo, but to flaten the 300 up. I didn't have enough ft driveline clearance. so I flipped the 300 to the drivers side. and built a Dana 44 drivers drop.
By flipping the 300 I gained another inch of driveline clearance
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:07 PM   #150 (permalink)
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DONE. Bought the parts, all should be here by late next week.

Novak twin shifters + boot
Novak Master Rebuild kit
JB conversions Lomax 4:1
Stak D300-TH350 adapter

Psyched, the adapter is only 1.5" long, exactly what I needed. Should work out great and give me that needed drive-shaft length.
Great !
Keep us posted.
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