![]() |
![]() |
|
|||||||
| Register | Blogs | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read | Premium Memberships | Auto Loans |
![]() |
|
|
Share |
| Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144390
Posts: 4
|
willys wagon owners
I have seen a few that have a willys wagon that have done a frame swap with various other frames. Is there a reason you guys have gone this route and not to just box the frame? Does ________ frame give the wagon better handling, lift, towing blah blah blah. Also for those that have done a frame swap do you have any pictures and details as to how to do this type of swap? And which frame is the best to swap in.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
|
I dont actually have a wagon yet, but i'm just starting my build, gathering the parts. I aqquired an '05 LJ frame, and plan to swap the body on to to that (among other things). Reason being: stronger boxed frame, off the shelf coil suspension. the specs seem to be fairly close in size from LJ to wagon, with little modifcations that will be needed... Time will tell how it works out once I actually "start" building.
__________________
"Your life is one giant redneck moment" |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Member # 124672
Location: Bellingham, Wa
Posts: 3
|
I went with a 77 Wagoneer frame to get power steering, Dana 44s, and wider spring width & placement for more stablity. I also wanted something stronger to handle the weight of a Cummins 4BTA.
__________________
61 Willys Wagon-77 waggy frame & D44's, 4bta, t-18, D-18 tcase, Warn OD, 35" BFG MT's |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 19851
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 32
|
I chose to box mine. I am changing the suspension so I cleaned everything off the frame, boxed it and am making all new mounts. I can see where it would be easier to use another frame and just make new body mounts. I think its all up to want you want and have available.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 131800
Posts: 1
|
I am also in the process of aquiring my parts, I will be using a '85 grand wagoneer frame and axles, I gain disc brakes dana 44s and almost a drop on conversion. I am planning on a 6.9l IDI diesel so I needed the driver drop front end to match my donor vehicle... we'll see how it works. I have pics posted on the willyswagon site of my yard art im starting with and will post pics of my progress over the winter as $$$$$ allows
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member # 77274
Location: Yuma Az.
Posts: 260
|
I was planning a buggy build using a 3/4 ton chevy frame due to the fact I can get parts at a reasonable price, it will handle anything that I stick in it including one ton's, the Willys body was just a bonus.
I still plan to build a full tube cage from the front bumper to the rear bumper to keep the frame from flexing, if you don't you should box the frame.
__________________
My build. [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=831472[/url] |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 130484
Location: North Bend, Oregon
Posts: 173
|
Some one before me butchered the original frame in mine with galvinized pipe and black water pipe so I chose to just build a new one rather than fix mine. I made mine from 2x4 .180 walled rec. tube so it is allready boxed. Plus it is smooth with no unwanted holes all over the place.
__________________
52 Willy's Wagon TBI 350, NP 435, Jed's 203-205 doubler,NWF Cable Shifter, HP Dana 60 Front/spooled, FF 14 Bolt Rear/Detriot, 5.13 gears, Full Hydro, One Link Front and Rear w/ 2.5 x 18" SAW's 39.5 Boggers on DIY Beadlocks |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144390
Posts: 4
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144390
Posts: 4
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Back to Basics
Join Date: Oct 2007
Member # 101869
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 550
|
I built my latest wagon using the original frame. It worked out very well, but it was A LOT of work. If you are patient and willing to do it right, it is worth it.
I built a Willys Pickup 10 years ago or so and used an 84 Jeep Wagoneer frame and drivetrain. It also worked out extremely well. The wagoneer frames are wider, stronger, and they give you more modern components like power steering, larger fuel tank, and better suspension design. You will have to move the engine back in the frame about 9" to make it work in a wagon. You can also adjust the wheelbase somewhat by redrilling the spring center bolts too. All in all, I think going with a Wagoneer frame is a better choice over using the stock frame. It really depends on how much blood, sweat, and busted rusty knuckles you are willing to donate to the cause.
__________________
62 Willys Wagon / 64 J200 Gladiator Build Thread Last edited by MidnightBurn; 08-16-2011 at 09:42 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 130484
Location: North Bend, Oregon
Posts: 173
|
Quote:
No not yet. I have no time to work on it currently so I have not started one. But when things finally get rolling again I will. Nothing worse than a cool build moving slower than molases in January.
__________________
52 Willy's Wagon TBI 350, NP 435, Jed's 203-205 doubler,NWF Cable Shifter, HP Dana 60 Front/spooled, FF 14 Bolt Rear/Detriot, 5.13 gears, Full Hydro, One Link Front and Rear w/ 2.5 x 18" SAW's 39.5 Boggers on DIY Beadlocks |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Member # 1056
Posts: 3,784
|
I did the Wagoneer frame swap and it went pretty well. I didn't move the front spring hangers etc. at all. I did do some very mild moving around in the back, but it was more me being particular than a requirement. I am getting ready to do it again it looks like here in about a month.........we shall see.
ROB |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
Granite Guru
|
For mine the wagoneer frame was an easy choice. I could have boxed the stock frame, but it is a much weaker solution that requires a ton of work. Not to mention that you have a really rusty stock frame to clean up and then try to box it out.
The wagoneer frame gave me a 360 and 727, of course I tossed those for fuel injection and a manual. It also gave me 44's. I moved the motor back 8". Then chopped a good bit out of the center to adjust the wheelbase. Finally chopped some out of the rear to remove the rear overhang. Maybe one day I will finish and actually drive it, but for now I keep picking up projects that are more interesting to me. |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) | |
|
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 145072
Location: Iowa
Posts: 144
|
Quote:
The willys fenders are the cool part! Nice though really nice. That would be a sweet daily driver if you could afford gas for that motor! Last edited by 66jj; 11-11-2009 at 07:43 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144281
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 185
|
Bump,
Ive got a '57 utility that i want to modernize for the wifey. I came across a '88 Grand Wagoneer that would be perfect for a donor vehicle. I was just wondering if there are any drawbacks to using this year Waggy for a chassis/drivetrain swap? However, Ive also got all the parts stockpiled to just box the frame and throw in a chevy motor/tranny/transfercase, then convert to power steering and power brakes. for those of you that have done a wagoneer chassis swap, where does your ride height end up after swapping in the stock wagoneer suspension? I would ultimatly run 35s. Just asking because i've yet to find any definate answers to my questions. What would you do? Thanks in advance. |
|
|
|
|
|
#16 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Member # 1056
Posts: 3,784
|
I ended up doing it again. Much better this time. I used a 55 body on an 80 frame.
PM me if you want some pics. I did SPOA but recessed one of the hangers etc. and it is not too tall with 37's. Much lower than the first time I built one. TTYL-ROB |
|
|
|
|
|
#17 (permalink) |
|
Granite Guru
|
I built mine on a wagoneer frame. My reasoning went something like this.
Hmmm willys wagon, not what I want but it is cool and cheap. I can put it on the trail and beat it until I find something else. Towing it home I realized that the original frame was trashed and the 302 didn't work with a front driveshaft. hmmm. Buddy has that wagoneer that runs and is in bad cosmetic shape. Dial phone and in 2 minutes I had the wagoneer for $500. Get them both home and started looking at it. I have boxed stock frames and it sucks. Had to cut 13 inches out of the middle of the wagoneer frame. Then more off the back. Still finishing the project, but no more wagoneer motor. Now it has a 4.0L ax15 in it. Just need to wrap up body work and paint. Doing it over I would just build the frame. Much less work and would look a lot cleaner. |
|
|
|
|
|
#18 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144281
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 185
|
i mispoke earlier. I think its a '84 Grand Wagoneer. I do know that it has quadratrac. Anyway, the cost it $200 and i would have to help him replace the beam that fell on the roof.
Toyotajeep, what size rubber would've fit before SOA? Im thinkin 33s |
|
|
|
|
|
#19 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Member # 1056
Posts: 3,784
|
33's easily. Look at the pics of the green Willys elsewhere in the post. I slammed the body as close to the frame as I could and recessed the front hanger and it is still tall. Not nearly as tall as the other one I built, but still tall.
ROB |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|