1947 3 years in the making

[sammyg]

Got the firewall done, engine in, and it's ready to fire up. Went in really smooth this time, my dad helped, a minute of pushing and it was home.

[sammyg]

And she's a runner! Sounds mean too. I'll get a good video tomorrow, possibly go drive it a bit too... Slowly (ha ha, right, slow... I didn't put a V8 into it to go slow)... No shocks so it's squirrely.

[mikeg1713]

That's awesome. I'm looking forward to hearing it.

[sammyg]

Thanks Mike


It get's it... Now if I can figure out shock mounts and why it runs so rich it burns my eyeballs I'll be set. I guess a cage never hurt anyone either...

Cold idle with the side pipes is awesome, sounds lumpy

[mikeg1713]

The video was great.mget someone out side that thing to video you! Watched both vids but couldn't hear shit, lol. I'm glad to see it running!

[sammyg]

Not the best sound in the world, hardly does it justice...
Jeep running after rebuild - YouTube

Willys Jeep Driving - YouTube

[sammyg]

Couple of neat pictures a friend of mine took

[csutton7]

sweet tater pie--congrats man.....chris

[mikeg1713]

Lol a Jk-8! I've sold a few few of those! Great pics. Your friend is talented.

[sammyg]

Originally Posted by csutton7:14392906

sweet tater pie--congrats man.....chris

Thank you!

[sammyg]

Originally Posted by mikeg1713:14396124

Lol a Jk-8! I've sold a few few of those! Great pics. Your friend is talented.

She is! And that jk8 is the photographers

[sammyg]

Getcha some...

[sammyg]

[sammyg]

Shock hoops and my redneck bender mount

[sammyg]

Well, everything was ready to go after I busted my ass to finish it up yesterday (was in the shop 3 days to get the carb tuned and timing set) got it back at 10:30, finished up shock hoops, final welded a lot of stuff, tied up loose ends, cushion clamps on everything, torqued everything, trailer was set up and ready to go to head out and wheel at 4:30, 4 came around, installed the electric radiator fan and wasn't comfortable taking out an unproven vehicle, so I did a few hot laps around my neighborhood (35-45 mph) ran great. It's really squirrely after 45 mph though, steering gets very lose, may need to do a sway bar or something.
About 3/4 mile from home, it's hanging out at 205-210 with the fan on, was about 99-100* outside, and it starts spitting coughing sputtering... Fawk.
Pulled off, and it was dead. Cranked up but wouldn't start. No fuel. Check the tank, all good. Vapor locked...Let it cool, limped it home, made it a block away and died again.

The shop switched out my 3/8" base gasket to a thin one, and I was having vapor lock the last time I had a thin base gasket on it. It went to the shop overheating but still wouldn't vapor lock... I'm not a rocket surgeon but it's pretty coincidental that it would happen... Pretty disappointed but glad it happened close enough to limp it home.

On that, when it was dying the second time, I down shifted and tried to slip the clutch and pop it to keep it running until I heard a loud bang from the tcase area. Hope it was just torquing up so hard it hit the floor board, or my drive shaft bound up because leaf springs wrapped up, but if I grenaded the tcase I dunno what I'll do



Coming home from the shop

[sammyg]

Shock hoops...


Can't get it to run cool. Didn't touch timing from what the shop did. It's not pulling steady vacuum at idle either.
Had a dead hole on number 1, bad plug. $2.45, fixed.
Losing prime on the carb at idle, fill the bowl with fuel, runs again for a little bit. Odd... It's also getting really hot really fast. Thinking the fuel pump may be going, oil smells like fuel. Not a blown diaphragm but a slow leak. If it's not putting enough fuel to the carb it's running lean, lean=hot. Thinking the timing too far back may be causing it to be running hot as well.
The radiator is a 2 row Mustang radiator, fan is a Spal 16" electric fan rated at 1300 cfm, no shroud. No idea if it's even enough cooling capacity for what I have?

[MrWillys]

Retarted timing can be a cause of heat. Most books will say 4 to 8 degrees intial timing. However, if you put a cam in it, it will run better at 12 to 16 with vacuum disconnected. Keep this in mind too. GM changed the timing mark in 1969, so you must have an early harmonic balancer, or your timing will be slightly off. I can't remember which way.
Radiator rule of thumb: 1 square inch per cubic inch, or 290 square inches for you. I run a single 16" electric, and will heat to 210 if going slow, or idling for long periods of time.
Sounds like you've got a handle on the fuel issues, and hopefully your t-case is ok.
Good luck, and it will work out.

[wilez5150]

you can get a tool the threads into the spark plug to vreify TDC to check your crank pully timing marks. on a cad moter i have there was 6 different pullys and 6 bolt on timing pointers for the same moter

[sammyg]

Originally Posted by MrWillys

Retarted timing can be a cause of heat. Most books will say 4 to 8 degrees intial timing. However, if you put a cam in it, it will run better at 12 to 16 with vacuum disconnected. Keep this in mind too. GM changed the timing mark in 1969, so you must have an early harmonic balancer, or your timing will be slightly off. I can't remember which way.
Radiator rule of thumb: 1 square inch per cubic inch, or 290 square inches for you. I run a single 16" electric, and will heat to 210 if going slow, or idling for long periods of time.
Sounds like you've got a handle on the fuel issues, and hopefully your t-case is ok.
Good luck, and it will work out.

I had based my radiator size on 1 in^2 per in^3, mustang radiator is 16x20 giving me 320 in^2. I know timing being off can cause heating issues as well. I don't have a timing tab, and I do have a late balancer but I will have to find absolute TDC on the balancer and put some timing tape on it, and somehow figure out a timing tab, or, set it off of vacuum. It runs very very happy when the vacuum gauge needle is steady, not bouncing around 5-10 inches of mercury. What is your CFM rating on your fan?

Tonight I pulled the fuel pump and it wasn't leaking. I'll replace it but I still don't know why it's running out of fuel at idle. The carb is getting to 140-150* at idle after only 5-10 minutes, so it may be boiling fuel out of the carb?

[sammyg]

Originally Posted by wilez5150

you can get a tool the threads into the spark plug to vreify TDC to check your crank pully timing marks. on a cad moter i have there was 6 different pullys and 6 bolt on timing pointers for the same moter

I remember that, cad motors confuse the hell out of me... The tool that I've always used was an old spark plug with a 1/4" bolt welded to the end of it, not the best to use on brand new pistons though. I may have to purchase the right tool

[sammyg]

Well, ditched the mechanical pump all together, put my pressure regluator back on, and put a Carter electric pump ($$$) under the bed floor near the tank. Runs great!
Got the engine to TDC, put a mark on the timing cover where TDC was, threw 9* of timing at it to start, still won't draw steady vacuum but if I advance it to where it is, I can't get idle under 1000 rpm.
Also broke out the heat gun... Only ran it to 190* on the mechanical gauge in the cab, but odly enough, the intake and top hose was only at 160*.
Also getting 30* temperature difference between top and bottom tanks so it is cooling efficiently at idle with the electric fan. Off to test it again tomorrow...

[sammyg]

Battery mount, put the regulator back in, put a carter electric pump in, no longer runs out of fuel... put a mark on the balancer and timing cover at 1tdc, put a light on it, threw 9* at it... Runs nice, still too hot. Only 10* difference between the top tank and bottom tank, did notice my mechanical temp gauge reads 10-15* high. Baby steps...

[MrWillys]

Due to the dwell of the piston at the top of the stroke the tdc finder can be plus or minus about 6 degrees. Put a vacuum gauge on it, and advance it until you get max vacuum. That 3" stroke can take 38 degrees total at WOT easy.
The zip ties holding your fan on will break! Mine broke at about 9500' with the family about a mile from the fishing hole. A modified piece from a fishing stringer saved the day, but I now have brackets that I've made that hold that fan on. Pic's if you'd like?
Congrats on the electric pump. Best way to go. Regulate to about 6.5, ot 7 psi and you're good to go.

[Mieser]

Is base timing with or without the vacuum advance on the distributor?

[sammyg]

Originally Posted by MrWillys

Due to the dwell of the piston at the top of the stroke the tdc finder can be plus or minus about 6 degrees. Put a vacuum gauge on it, and advance it until you get max vacuum. That 3" stroke can take 38 degrees total at WOT easy.
The zip ties holding your fan on will break! Mine broke at about 9500' with the family about a mile from the fishing hole. A modified piece from a fishing stringer saved the day, but I now have brackets that I've made that hold that fan on. Pic's if you'd like?
Congrats on the electric pump. Best way to go. Regulate to about 6.5, ot 7 psi and you're good to go.

if I advance it to max vacuum, I can't get it to idle under 1000, rpm...But it sounds a lot happier advanced that much.
good call on the fan, but I'm honestly not sure if it will stay, may go back to a steel fan blade. Thanks! It's regulated to 7psi right now.

Originally Posted by Mieser

Is base timing with or without the vacuum advance on the distributor?

vacuum advance is connected, ported vacuum