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Old 01-13-2012, 01:44 PM   #176 (permalink)
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I saw the Holley in the picture and thought you were still running that. I know nothing about quadrajets.
That was an 850cfm IIRC, way too much carb, so I ended up with the quadra bog. Thing runs at damn near any angle. I think it's just so rich that it's idling up. Motors will speed up if you put gas in a spray bottle and spray into the carb, so being so fat it's burning extra fuel and idling up.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:25 PM   #177 (permalink)
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This was too far gone to save, I hadn't noticed it when I cleaned and painted the frame, but when I pulled the V brace out it was a mess...

So now I have this missing cross member and body mount, and plans for some 2x.120 DOM cross member to fill the void. While I'm at it I might remove the cross member in front of it, box the frame there, and put a new cross member in. I'm not boxed between the hangers, only about 8" past the factory boxing, so now I'm wondering if I should have boxed the entire length.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:40 PM   #178 (permalink)
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cross member all done. new one is 2" .120 DOM.

Welded in and gusseted up. Welds were strong, but looked like shit. Would run amazing for 3-4 whip out's, but then would start spitting and sputtering and covering everything in spatter. I checked wire, drive rolls, roll pressure, switched contact tip, verified gas. Feels like possibly a kink in the liner, since I had to turn the wire feed up from where it was to get it to feed without just balling back onto the tip. That explains the high crown on the welds. I'll figure that out sooner or later...

New body mounts

All done.


I may replace the cross member in front of this one in a similar fashion to give myself more room for the artec battery box, and since there's what's left of a Ballistic box in there..., but for now, it's off to figure out the clutch and why it grabs so soon.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:20 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Tried several positions of my slave cylinder, the linkage, and the pivot ball and it got a little better, still grabs pretty soon but it's not like an on off switch anymore. Is a pretty stiff clutch though.

Drove it a little bit with no shocks still, made sure it was warmed up first. When it's warmed up it sounds like every other SBC, but with an awful drone around 1000 rpm. Think the 3" exhaust may be a little excessive on a 283.

Picked this up the other night to slowly start building to have set aside in case the 283 ever goes boom. Let the games begin

64 L79 327 block and crank, has stock pistons and rods, needs new pistons since it's been freshly (15 years ago) bored over.

And a night shot with the droid...
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:35 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Tested some 35" rollers I had. Not sure if I like them or not. Like the height, don't like the width. Don't think a D30/44 would like them too much with a warmed up 283 or sooner or later 327...

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Old 02-26-2012, 08:47 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Wow, a 64 L79 in a jeep. Isn't that worth a buck or two to a collector? Can you still read the engine id on the deck pad?
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:28 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Wow, a 64 L79 in a jeep. Isn't that worth a buck or two to a collector? Can you still read the engine id on the deck pad?
Probably, PO said I was the 4th or 5th to look at it. It's already .040 over but freshly machined.
Pad shows F08I2HC, gathered Flint, August 12th, HC... Don't know what the HC came out to be. Here's one of the pistons that came out of it, they'll need replacing.

And one of the rods
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #183 (permalink)
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My dog came out for a visit in the garage yesterday
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:08 PM   #184 (permalink)
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The L79 was a 360 HP Vette motor, but HC is 1965 Impala. You had me going for a moment. I'm thinking this kids putting one of the rarest SBC's on the planet in a Jeep.
Thank you for clarification. It may have been casted in 64 for the 65 model year.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:17 PM   #185 (permalink)
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The L79 was a 360 HP Vette motor, but HC is 1965 Impala. You had me going for a moment. I'm thinking this kids putting one of the rarest SBC's on the planet in a Jeep.
Thank you for clarification. It may have been casted in 64 for the 65 model year.
And how upset would you be if it was a real "Vette" motor?
If it was I think I would put it in a geo metro just to watch people get a bad taste in their mouth...
From my research, including talking to my machinist who isn't some "kid"like I apparently am, HC meant 4 barrel, that's it.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:17 AM   #186 (permalink)
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please don't take offense to what i say. you are a very talented young man. it's just that i knew what L79 meant. HC is 327 fullsize, and clearly not Corvette.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:25 AM   #187 (permalink)
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Tested some 35" rollers I had. Not sure if I like them or not. Like the height, don't like the width. Don't think a D30/44 would like them too much with a warmed up 283 or sooner or later 327...

Love the look of the 35's
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:26 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Love the look of the 35's
Thanks
I love the height but if I went to 35's I'd want pizza cutters and would need to bump stop the shit out of it. I'm back on the 32's (until they wear out at least)
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:13 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Nice Willys man. I have a set of 34" TSL's on 16" Willys rims i will be selling soon if your interested. And I'm in SE NewMex.

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Old 02-29-2012, 07:36 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Nice Willys man. I have a set of 34" TSL's on 16" Willys rims i will be selling soon if your interested. And I'm in SE NewMex.
Might be interested. Pics/price? Tread left?
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:06 PM   #191 (permalink)
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They were used exclusively off-road & have about 90% tread left. I'm thinking maybe $800 for the tires. Im not sure about the Willys rims yet. Looks like they might be worth something. Researching value.

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Old 03-04-2012, 07:39 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Think I'll pass. I love my 15" aluminum wheels and would like to stick with that size. Thanks though!

having an issue figuring out how to fit Empi low back suspension seats in the Jeep now. They're a lot safer and more comfortable, but I have the same issue as DJ did with his race Jeep, we're both 6'4 and need them back and low, I can notch the housing with no issue but getting them low will be hard.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:31 PM   #193 (permalink)
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If you need the seats that low your probably going to have to do something different for the fuel tank?
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:12 PM   #194 (permalink)
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Older pic, but that's seat back parallel to the wheel house, comfortable, but can't get my feet in and I feel like I'm on top of the world. Odly enough the top of my head is below windshield, but I couldn't operate the clutch because my shin would be dragging the dash.
Maybe I need to be like Cotton Hill.... Naw



I was thinking maybe something like a UTV seat but I can't see how a seat can get much smaller, I have a pretty narrow torso (About half the people I know call me Slim) and it's pretty snug around the hip bolster.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:14 PM   #195 (permalink)
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If you need the seats that low your probably going to have to do something different for the fuel tank?
The plan has been to move the fuel tank to the rear, behind the axle. Sucks because it'll go right in harms way and I have no idea how to mount a fuel tank, but I <should> gain 5 gallons capacity which isn't too bad.

Worst case I have to make a fuel tank, which is fine. I may make a 5 gallon water tank to go under the driver seat and use the factory fill location.

Bad part of putting it out back is my battery needs to be reloacted for the 3rd time, probably onto the driver side frame rail behind the TC output.

....Which means my exhaust will have to go back to side pipes. Which are loud, but my muffler man claims we can make it quiet. I have cut outs to be obnoxious but for around town/wheeling I like it quiet as can be.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:04 AM   #196 (permalink)
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The plan has been to move the fuel tank to the rear, behind the axle. Sucks because it'll go right in harms way and I have no idea how to mount a fuel tank, but I <should> gain 5 gallons capacity which isn't too bad.

Worst case I have to make a fuel tank, which is fine. I may make a 5 gallon water tank to go under the driver seat and use the factory fill location.

Bad part of putting it out back is my battery needs to be reloacted for the 3rd time, probably onto the driver side frame rail behind the TC output.

....Which means my exhaust will have to go back to side pipes. Which are loud, but my muffler man claims we can make it quiet. I have cut outs to be obnoxious but for around town/wheeling I like it quiet as can be.

I'm just finishing putting a tank in back, There is no stock tank that will fit without moving one of the cross members. My set up is working better than i thought, i will build a stronger skid plate another time. The extra fuel is a plus, but i wanted to lower the seat a bit and the foot space that i was really looking for. I should be done tommorow, replacing all the brake lines and fixing all the wiring in the back, the Prev owner hacked up.
/forum/jeep-willys/968196-1942-cj2a-restomod-build.html
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:06 PM   #197 (permalink)
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I'm just finishing putting a tank in back, There is no stock tank that will fit without moving one of the cross members. My set up is working better than i thought, i will build a stronger skid plate another time. The extra fuel is a plus, but i wanted to lower the seat a bit and the foot space that i was really looking for. I should be done tommorow, replacing all the brake lines and fixing all the wiring in the back, the Prev owner hacked up.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=968196
I like it. Does the tank just sit on the skid plate? I'm not sure how it's held up?

When I replaced the cross member above the rear axle I bumped it forward near an inch, and made sure to stick it up as high as I could.
I don't have the rear most cross member anymore that post people claim is the bumper, I replaced it with an actual bumper and that bumped it out 3/8". I may go searching for a postal tank like you did. Which side is the filler and what did you use for a sending unit?
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:23 PM   #198 (permalink)
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I like it. Does the tank just sit on the skid plate? I'm not sure how it's held up?

When I replaced the cross member above the rear axle I bumped it forward near an inch, and made sure to stick it up as high as I could.
I don't have the rear most cross member anymore that post people claim is the bumper, I replaced it with an actual bumper and that bumped it out 3/8". I may go searching for a postal tank like you did. Which side is the filler and what did you use for a sending unit?
Yes the tank sits in the skid, there is a strap that goes over the tank and holds it to the tank. I looked at your pics, and saw your rear bumper. With your bumper and the stock crossmember, you could fit the postal tank like I am doing with o problem.

With your custom crossmember moved forward, you might fit the first tank I posted. BUT the diff is probably going to hit the skid.

The fill is on the pass side, not sure if I have to move the fill on the tank a bit, probably not. It will come out the rear quarter, or out the back above the tail light.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:40 PM   #199 (permalink)
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I have the same seats in my MB. I think the wheel tub on the MB is a different shape too. The rear of my seats ended up about 1-1.25" off the FLOOR and tilted back a good bit. With that toolbox I think your seat is probably about 3-4" higher than mine. I'm 5'10" with a long torso and my head is fully below my slightly shorter MB windshield.

I don't think there is a really good answer for seats in a flat fender that doesn't involve a LOT of cutting or a custom tub.

I was talking about it with a friend of mine, and keeping the stock tub dimensions has its advantages ( top, doors, etc ) but I think the tub REALLY needs about 2-3" more room in the floor/belly area. Once you start adding larger tires this gets more difficult since there is only so much room in the rear of the tub. I move my axle back approx 2" and was able to fit a 36" dia wheel openingon the tub without getting to the back or the tub, comp cutting, etc. I think you could go back about another inch before you started getting into comp cut territory. Perhaps with something like a 33" tire you could move the rear axle back about 4" total with a 34" wheel opening...and then be able to move the tub back internally about 2". It would all be REALLY tight, especially if you want to keep the overall height down and the axle width close to stock......

PRP has a Rhino seat frame that is shorter from to back in the base. Its basically there full size seat just cut down a little. I think those would make a great seat for a flat fender.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Yes the tank sits in the skid, there is a strap that goes over the tank and holds it to the tank. I looked at your pics, and saw your rear bumper. With your bumper and the stock crossmember, you could fit the postal tank like I am doing with o problem.

With your custom crossmember moved forward, you might fit the first tank I posted. BUT the diff is probably going to hit the skid.

The fill is on the pass side, not sure if I have to move the fill on the tank a bit, probably not. It will come out the rear quarter, or out the back above the tail light.
Could I request more picture of how it's mounted? I'm thinking of doing something with aluminum for the skid plate. I hear there is a problem with rear mounted fuel tanks and Holbrook springs because of the length of travel. I may mock it all up, use the under seat fuel tank, and drive it through some whoops and see if the diff smacks it at all

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I have the same seats in my MB. I think the wheel tub on the MB is a different shape too. The rear of my seats ended up about 1-1.25" off the FLOOR and tilted back a good bit. With that toolbox I think your seat is probably about 3-4" higher than mine. I'm 5'10" with a long torso and my head is fully below my slightly shorter MB windshield.

I don't think there is a really good answer for seats in a flat fender that doesn't involve a LOT of cutting or a custom tub.

I was talking about it with a friend of mine, and keeping the stock tub dimensions has its advantages ( top, doors, etc ) but I think the tub REALLY needs about 2-3" more room in the floor/belly area. Once you start adding larger tires this gets more difficult since there is only so much room in the rear of the tub. I move my axle back approx 2" and was able to fit a 36" dia wheel openingon the tub without getting to the back or the tub, comp cutting, etc. I think you could go back about another inch before you started getting into comp cut territory. Perhaps with something like a 33" tire you could move the rear axle back about 4" total with a 34" wheel opening...and then be able to move the tub back internally about 2". It would all be REALLY tight, especially if you want to keep the overall height down and the axle width close to stock......

PRP has a Rhino seat frame that is shorter from to back in the base. Its basically there full size seat just cut down a little. I think those would make a great seat for a flat fender.
I looked into the PRP seats but they were prices. I wouldn't hesitate lengthening the frame 4-5", it doesn't look terrible if done right with the frame stretched out a little in the back. I could still push the fuel tank back with the diff and keep it on the springs I have, would need to move the shock mounts back which is bad because I'm fixing to put them through the rear floor. I may be a little crazy because I want to keep the rear seat. Again I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Even 1-2" back on the seats would be good, and keeping them low (1.5 off the floor since I'll tie them to the cage) would help too. Sucks cutting out the stock tool box.

If the stock seats were at least a little more comfortable and safer I wouldn't hesitate keeping them, but I'm not seeing how to safely mount 4 points on conduit frame (basically) Stock WO seats.
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