51 willys pickup build

[tufluv82toy]

I am in the planning stages of building a 51 willys pickup. This will be a resto/mod build. I am going to run a 2004 vortec 5.3 with 30k miles with the
4l60e transmission behind it. I am un decided on a tranfercase, frame and axles. I know I want a manual shift t case with a 40 plulse vss in it but I would also like to be able to run the factory mechanical speedometor after its restored. Any ideas to best options? Did they make a manual shift 241 or 231 behind the 4l60 that would work? Im also considering swapping the body onto a wagoneer chassis to gain the dana 44s front and rear, a stronger frame and power steering. What would be the best year of wagoneer to look for? What gearing and posi/lockers did they come with? Anyone here that has done this have any pointers?This truck will be used for highway, town and mild trail use (camping, mild 4 wheeling etc). It will be running a 285 sized tire (33in tall) Any help or pointers from those that have doing similar in the past would be very appreciated. Thank you, TTL

[adamusmc2002]

Sounds cool; no advice, but good luck. There should be someone on here with some pointers, or a place they can point you towards.

[tufluv82toy]

no info on wagoneer chassis or axles?

[Magnum_Willys]

You are looking at replacing the 60 year old frame with a 30 year old one ?

[MyaScape]

I'll dig up pics of my build. I am boxing my frame as opposed to ditching it for a donor. The advantage of the waggy frame is you don't have to figure out drivetrain or outboard your springs, from the way I see it.

On my '53 frame, I'm putting Wrangler springs on it and welding a 3 X 4 box crossmember up front to keep the frame from pretzeling with power steering added.

Joe

[tufluv82toy]

The wagoneer frame is quite beefy compaired to the origional. It already has longer and wider wagoneer leaf springs (many aftermarket available) and it has power steering. From the factory it came with a 360 so the v8 power should be no issue. If I find one that is not butchered or abused it will save me tons of labor in the suspension and it comes with the dana 44s already attached which are plenty strong for what this customer is going to do and the tire he will run. It will used mostly for cruising the back roads, running to the local hot rod shows, going on mild trail runs and camping trips. Looking for tips on swapping bodys and what is involved. I know many people have done this exact swap because of the width being close. What year waggy do I need to find with the narrow axles and dana 44s front and rear? I would rather stay away from the model 20 even though it would probably be plenty strong if I went to 1 piece shafts. What mods to the frame do I need to do to get the body to sit correctly and look correctly. I have not bought the waggy frame yet so I am weighing my options. There is one in a town not far from here for sale for 250 bucks with a running 350 and all running gear.... Any help/pics would be appreciated.

[tufluv82toy]

what year do i need to get the narrow axles (to closely match stock willys pu width) and the centered rear diff (running a driver drop 241 behind the 5.3 and 4l60e) Thanks for the help

[jeep_91_24]

I did a frame swap on a 48 willys pickup quite a few years back. I already had a clean frame from a 1985 J10 pickup. I ended up using it and only had to take 6 inches(if I remember right) out of the center to shorten the wheel base. Plus I was able to use the axles from the 85 as well. Good luck with your build, sounds very cool. Dont know if this info will help or not but its my 2 cents.

[tufluv82toy]

From what I understand 68 through about 75 wagoneers would have the stronger open knuckle dana 44 with disc brakes, the stronger rear dana 44 and still have narrow track axles? is this correct? Im trying to narrow down my search to get the most for my customers money. I appreciate all of the help, keep it commin!

[keivnburnett89]

sounds pretty awesom....im also building a51 p/u good luck cant wait to see some pics

[SpineTx]

This was a 54 wagon. I boxed the frame and tubed the back wasn't that hard to do, just depends on how much work you want to do. But keeping the body mounts was easier this way. With all the "off the shelf" suspension brackets available redoing the suspension is very easy. I'll try to get pics of my frame and suspension.

[ELIBEEMER]

the transfercase you want to use for the 4l60E is the NP241c
for the 4l60E, make sure its the 27-splice input shaft NP241c

the NP241c "32 spline" is for the earlier 87-92 700R4.

im also doing a frame-swap on my 1955 Willys pick up, yet I am using a 1999 Escalade rolling frame w/5.7vortec 4l60E, NP241c, 6" RCD lift, 22" wheels on 38" tires, etc, etc

[79chevy39.5's]

Originally Posted by ELIBEEMER

the transfercase you want to use for the 4l60E is the NP241c
for the 4l60E, make sure its the 27-splice input shaft NP241c

the NP241c "32 spline" is for the earlier 87-92 700R4.

im also doing a frame-swap on my 1955 Willys pick up, yet I am using a 1999 Escalade rolling frame w/5.7vortec 4l60E, NP241c, 6" RCD lift, 22" wheels on 38" tires, etc, etc

pretty sure the 700r4 was 27 spline 32 spline is late model sm465, turbo 400 and nv4500 and 4l80e.....27 spline is turbo 350/7oor4/4l60/nv3500 i thought

[Beastus_Maximus]

you can just run a NP205 with one of these. It will give you the best of both worlds.

[ELIBEEMER]

Originally Posted by 79chevy39.5's

pretty sure the 700r4 was 27 spline 32 spline is late model sm465, turbo 400 and nv4500 and 4l80e.....27 spline is turbo 350/7oor4/4l60/nv3500 i thought

1995-1999 NP241c 4l60e transmission
27 spline front input, rear slip output three wire indicator, speed sensor fixed front output yoke

1995-1999 NP241c 4l80e
32 spline front input, rear slip output three wire indicator, speed sensor fixed front output yoke

[79chevy39.5's]

that would be what is stated in what you quoted from me but you said the 700r4 was 32 spline