M38A1 Steering Upgrade

[codyja]

I recently acquired a 1/4 finished '53 M38a1 build with a '58 chevy 283. The PO did a SOA conversion with 33" tires, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to approach the steering. It has a D25 front axle, and I'd like to leave in it for now. I'd like to do the saginaw power steering upgrade, but can't quite figure out how to best run tie rods and drag links and clear the springs. I know the D25 isn't preferred which is why I can't find much info about this. The PO made an extension for the bellcrank to continue using the ross box, but I don't think this is going to work. Primary use for this jeep will be mostly street use, with occasional light trail use. Any input would be appreciated.


Here are some pics when he was cleaning everything up before the body was put back on and motor mounted:

[Thompology]

Whoa, that looks scary.

[stevesc1]

I definetely wouldn't run that steering, the Ross steering isn't that great to begin with, and it looks like you got quite a bit of lift even taking into account that the body isn't on the frame in the vehicle.

I am not aware of any reasonable fix to your situation while retaining the Dana 25 unless you lower the vehicle. You really need to run high steer with the lift you have, and I don't think you can do that with a Dana 25.

A spring over narrow track vehicle isn't real safe on the street, so I would think hard about going back spring under or swapping in a dana 30 or preferably a dana 44 front that was a little wider and could easily be setup for high steer. I know that probably isn't what you are looking to hear, but something to think about.

I have a 66 CJ with only a 3 inch spring under lift and completely rebuilt Ross steering and it still makes me nervous to drive on the highway as it feels tippy. I also have a spring over 71 commando with 58" wide Scout 44 in the rear and 56" narrowed waggy 44 in the front setup spring over and even though it is a good bit higher than the cj it feels much more stable both on and off road.

A dana 44 front can be had reasonably priced and give you good upgrades in strength, stability, locker choices, axle upgrades etc. You might could even find a matched set of Waggy axles with the offset rear and swap both.

[FF3PM]

That is way too much lift for 33's, I have 33x14x15 boggers on my cj2a with no lift, granted very little suspension travel before hitting the rear wheel wells. I just have not gotten around to installing a lift yet, IIRC 33's only needs 3" of lift on a willys. Yours looks like it has enough lift for 38-40" tires.

[jjeep71]

Might want to check here: http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id83.htm
or here:http://www.earlycj5.com/technical/st...ginaw_steerin/

[brownbagg]

just do a saginaw steering with cross over tie rod, you can get from advance adapther. its really simple. a bar goes from wheel to wheel and then from passanger side to pitman arm

[stevesc1]

You can't run a true crossover unless the passenger knuckle has two holes, one for the draglink and one for the crossover tie rod. 71 commando's actually had a knuckle like this on the dana 27.

You can run an inverted T steering setup but your draglink angle would be pretty bad. If you don't want to consider axle swaps maybe this would be the easiest way.

[codyja]

Thanks for all the input. I think I'm going to look into do D44's from a wagoneer swap. The extra width would probably make it more stable, less tippy, and look better. I may have found some in my area from a '76 that I think has flat top knuckles. I think the hardest thing about this swap for me would be setting up the outboard spring hangers.

Here is a pic of roughly what it looks like now.

[jeep937]

X2 Too high.

[2003_ram]

That's way higher than my CJ with 37's. And x2 on narrow trac, BAD IDEA. I ran my CJ with narow trac axles and 2" spacers, it sucked on the road. Taking corners was un-easy and hill side climbs were scary. Now that I am wider I drive it the same as my fathers TJ, and it takes corners almost just as well.

I vote SUA