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Old 02-21-2011, 07:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I was on a roll with the grinder so I cut off the front of the frame!



Slapped in the Stak again and bolted up the front driveshaft


I ran into the first major stumbling block

The ride height that I picked seems great except if there is more than 1" uptravel the driveshaft will hit the slave cylinder mount... I have come up with a few solutions and open to other ones. One idea was to look at internal slave cylinders, and eliminate the mount... I am not sure what is availible. Another idea was to do a 2 piece drive shaft, although, I do not think I have a long enough driveshaft to pull it off. My other idea and the one I am favoring the most is go back to full with axles and use a 85-92 Ford high pinion front housing in which the pinion is offset 3.5" more the to drivers side. It will also add stability and the wider wheel mount surfaces will allow more clearance from the tires when turning to the lower front links. I have a couple of leads on front 60s and in the rear I will just switch to SRW hubs.


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Old 02-21-2011, 08:22 PM   #27 (permalink)
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damn owen you move fast! We'll have to stop by to see this thing sometime.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:17 PM   #28 (permalink)
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lookin good Owen! im jealous of that stak... so jealous

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/2216707172.html

Last edited by theDMAXman; 02-22-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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lookin good Owen! im jealous of that stak... so jealous

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/2216707172.html
Thanks for the kind words and the link. I emailed the guy, sale pending, but I have a few other lines, kinda want to find a single wheel hub axle anyway.

I spent a little time with a tape measure tonight an messed around with clocking the transfer case. My current front 60 is a 78 Ford housing chopped 4.5" on the long side to give it ~65" WMS. According to the Dana 60 Bible the 85-92 housings have the pinion set 3.5" farther to the driver side. By switching to a fullwidth 60, 85-92 housing I will move the pinion ~5.75 inches to the drivers side.

By the looks of things, that setup will allow enough clearance between the driveshaft and slave mount to give me 4.5" of uptravel. I kinda wanted more (like 6"), but I can still tweak the driveline height and ride height a little.

I also looked as hydraulic throwouts as an option (although I am not crazy about the idea), like this one http://www.jegs.com/i/Ram-Clutches/7...oductId=795647

So next is to find a new front axle and get my engine back together and make some new mounts. I got these from Poly Performance, I think they will do the trick (or at least help)


Also on the subject of space conservation I picked up this Warn XD9000i, I figured it might be easier to fit and mount than the 8274, although I love my old winch, it is a monstrosity!

Of course if I can run the 8274 I certainly will. I am pretty much decided on getting synthetic line (for whichever winch I run) there are a lot of options out there, I was going to order from Rock Buggy Supply. Their line seems really nice for the money
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:38 PM   #30 (permalink)
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ok so nice build im jealous and pissed cuz my junk still aint done dam it lol
now where did ya get the oil pan and what was the application thanks
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:01 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ok so nice build im jealous and pissed cuz my junk still aint done dam it lol
now where did ya get the oil pan and what was the application thanks
got it from Advanced Auto

it is for a 2wd S10 with a 4.3, I think I used 1990 as the year. Rock auto sells them as well. I just ordered a few different ones for 4.3's (none in stock at my local Advance), I found this one has the best clearance. You have to change your oil pump pickup as well.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Looks like its time to upgrade the photobucket account, the PBB has exceded your bandwidth limit for photobucket. All your photobucket pictures have blown up. I was looking forward to seeing this thing too!
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Looks like its time to upgrade the photobucket account, the PBB has exceded your bandwidth limit for photobucket. All your photobucket pictures have blown up. I was looking forward to seeing this thing too!
Damn I guess so... is there a photo host I can use for free without the bandwidth limits? (probably should search) Check back soon...
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Old 02-25-2011, 02:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
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just create anouther acount and when it gets full repeat.

Last edited by MNtal; 02-25-2011 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:49 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Bandwidth is down, well see how it goes this time around, if it goes over I will upgrade.

I haven't updated in a while but been fairly busy

Picked up a 85-92 style KP 60 Ford housing and prepped it.
Going to be what I need to solve the driveshaft interference problems.



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Old 03-20-2011, 01:58 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I spent a lot of time with a tape measure, combination square, plumb bob, jacks, jack stands, pieces of wood, etc figuring out where I want to set my drivetrain. One thing holding me up was the bellhousing hitting one part of the firewall so I cut and welded in a new piece.


Once I got the driveline supported I took about 75 measurements and made marks and whatnot, then cut out my old fugly ass motor mounts.
Driver side


I tacked the plate that I welded in to a piece of angle iron to set it in place and get it flush with the rest of the frame.

Half decent overhead pass

Passenger side is about the same
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:11 AM   #37 (permalink)
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New engine mounts.
I wanted to make something functional and clean.
Start
Cut some new pieces of 2" square, 45 degrees.

Drivers side
I hacked the old tube off of the engine plates, measured 40 times and notched the tube, welded in the sleeve.


I am using these brackets and bushings from Poly performance. The brackets had some mounting holes, I cut them off with a grinder. I used some 2.5" OD square by .25" wall (2" ID, which slips over the frame rail) to set the brackets on.
Driver side tacked



Before I tacked it, I made sure the driveline was fairly straight, so the busting didn't wear prematurely. Thie setup should have plenty of clearance for the driveshaft and upper links.

With the drive side set in place, I tacked the passenger side frame mount and I took measurements for the engine mount...
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Old 03-20-2011, 07:31 AM   #38 (permalink)
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TIGs are so cool... I love having one around my shop, although I don't use it enough to get really good at it. I mostly use it for aluminum though, as its only rated for 3/16 material (Miller Diversion 165).
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:40 AM   #39 (permalink)
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TIGs are so cool... I love having one around my shop, although I don't use it enough to get really good at it. I mostly use it for aluminum though, as its only rated for 3/16 material (Miller Diversion 165).
Nice, mine is a Maxstar 152 DC only, so no Aluminum. I just run a 9 series air cooled torch with a gas valve and touch start. It is great for all the out of position stuff and tight spots on the jeep. I am just learning TIG myself, it takes some time but I like it better than squirting wire, and the overhead and verticals are way nicer.
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:52 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Frame mount welded in


Just a question for anyone who Tig welds a lot of rigs. I am running a CNI 9V torch with a #6 cup. I was getting a little porosity At the corners of my welds sometimes, usually when joining two pieces. The metal was very clean, I think it the gas flowing was actually pulling air toward the weld from 90 degrees (on a corner)... Any ideas how to keep this from happening?

Painted and installed!


Got these the other day!


Next step is to start setting up the links for the front suspension. I am going to get my new front axle setup so I can at least bolt the tires and wheels on and steer it, to make sure the tires arent going to hit the links.

Pulling apart my old 60 the other day I found this!

The shaft on the top is a little twisted... It is a stock 30 spline outer... time for 35 splines? Or should I stay with 30 splines? I always thought it was a good place to have the weak link, espeicially since I never had a problem with them (or so I thought)
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:37 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Go 35 spline on the outer so you dont have to worry about it, and the 35 spline alloys are just a little more than a stock 30 spline dana replacement.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:20 PM   #42 (permalink)
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anything new?
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:22 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Yes... My last few weeks at work have been nuts, but I finally feel like I got some stuff done and got time for an update. Spent a lot of time reading about 4 link fronts and messing with the calculator.

I needed to make something for the front 60 to set the link mounts and steering on. I am still going to add a bent tube "hoop" to support/protect the front of the plate that the cylinder is mounted on, but here is what I have so far. I took a piece of 3"x4" .25" wall box tube and cut out one side


made this cardboard template


traced, plasma cut and ground to get this



A ride height teaser with the grill and tires bolted on
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:27 PM   #44 (permalink)
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...More

Set up the 4 link and cylinder, everything tack welded in place. The brackets are from Barnes 4WD, they are really nice. I wish I could get things done on my jeep as fast as my parts came from them!



First thing I did with the tires on was to see if the tires would rub the lowers


Nope


Flexing


Had to cut out this crossmember, it was limiting uptravel to about 4". I will probably wind up cutting off a little more of the frame in front in favor of tube anyway

Last edited by Dirty S10; 04-24-2011 at 08:28 PM. Reason: forgot to write stuff
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Cut out crossmember, jacked up to a little over 5" uptravel. Probably will set bumps around 4.5"



Everything clears great on the drivers side


On the passenger side with a little over 5" of uptravel I ran into one problem, The right side upper link gets a little close to the sperp belt. I think I am going to just increase the uppers axle mount horizontal separation .5" to 1" or so (.25" to .5" y dimension on the calculator) just to be on the safe side, and again it will be bumpstopped at around 4.5" uptravel, maybe 5" if everything looks better after I move the mounts.

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Old 04-25-2011, 02:33 PM   #46 (permalink)
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looks good owen! i like how low your keeping it, should work awesome!
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:36 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Did some welding...

Arms



Busted out the wire feeder to save some time on the front axle, still have a couple things lift to do on it.




Assembled my engine, painted it black and boxed in the upper link mounts



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Old 05-17-2011, 07:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Maybe i missed it, but if you havent fixed your bell/ slave/ driveline issue, use a bell for a late 80's ifs truck w/a 465. Their slave is external and on the pass side. Looks good!
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:55 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Maybe i missed it, but if you havent fixed your bell/ slave/ driveline issue, use a bell for a late 80's ifs truck w/a 465. Their slave is external and on the pass side. Looks good!
Thanks, that is really good to know. I was kind of wondering if there was a bellhousing like that out there, but I couldn't find the info... I didn't really look to hard. Going with the full width 88 Ford housing worked well... It moved my pinion 5"+ to the driver side. My passenger upper link will hit the damn water pump before the driver side upper hits the slave mount now.
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Also been doing a little tinkering. I got my front axle almost all setup. I just have to figure out what I am doing for bumpstops and possibly put some pads on the axle for them to contact with. The D ring is for mock up, I might put it there, but its not welded yet.




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