1951 CJ-3A Build.

[dStuck]

ok well i picked up this jeep a few weeks ago for $800 after searching for a while and went and picked it up with a flat bed. For $800 its wasn't a bad deal, the body is a littleeeee rough, but its not gonna be a beauty queen, and it has a newly rebuilt Chevy 327 which i should have done in the next few weeks or so when i get the donor motor from a buddy that ill strip the parts off of and put on mine.

The plan...

-Stock YJ or similar leafs and SOA
-new leaf mounts and front leaf shackle behind the tire
-37x12.5x16.5 H1 Tires and Re-centered double beadlocks from Trail Worth Fab
-new axles, nice set of axles out of a Waggy at the junkyard that ive had my eye on.
-eventually bend up a full cage too replace the roll bar...

anyways some pics of what im starting with:
Right after picking it up:

got it home:

[dStuck]

got rid of the red just for now...




my first problems... rear driveshaft doesnt quiteee want too go as low as the pinion on the axle... seeing a SYE in my future unless anyone has some input???


need too do some work on the body mounts... and replace the solid body lift....

[GeneticDisposition]

Nice

[dStuck]

and some inspiration and kinda how i want this one too end up and yes i know one is an MB...



ooh and almost forgot... the motor : p

[trajan]

You either have a '51 CJ-3A with a 2A windshield or you have a CJ-2A. The split windshield is a dead give away. Good luck on the build.

[dStuck]

Originally Posted by trajan

You either have a '51 CJ-3A with a 2A windshield or you have a CJ-2A. The split windshield is a dead give away. Good luck on the build.

Hmmm.. Did they have the 2A in '51? Also anyother give aways on 2A's vs 3A's cause I doubt it but it could have a new window frame. But thanks for the info, hopefully this week will have the body off the frame so I can work on the body mounts, body work, and clean up the frame.

[craigellis77]

From the pictures, the Jeep seems to have the stock D18 transfer case. You cannot use a SYE b/c that case has no slip yoke.

[dStuck]

Originally Posted by craigellis77

From the pictures, the Jeep seems to have the stock D18 transfer case. You cannot use a SYE b/c that case has no slip yoke.

What would you guys recomend besides lowering the rear end of the jeep too match up?

[MrWillys]

You take the e-brake off of the D-18, and obtain a front yoke from a D-18, and bolt it to the rear. You'll probably have to make a new driveshaft. it will look like this when you're done.

However, if you're going to change axles you could approach it differently. I run an SBC TH-350C D-18 in an 81" wheelbase and this is the answer.

[Skorch]

Nice, I like it. Mark

[Free Beer]

Nice project, looks like you have power pack heads on that 327.

[dStuck]

thanks a bunch MrWillys, as you guys probably can notice this is my first older jeep, i've built up two Cherokees but thats it. and Powerpack heads you say? haha

also what axles were in these exactly?

[MrWillys]

I'm guessing that you have a Dana 41 rear, and model 25 front by looking at your pictures, but see here:
http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d41.html
The cool thing about jeeps that alot of people don't know. The government designed the Jeep to be simplistic. The bearings in the rear axle is the same as bearings in the transfercase, transmission, and front axle. Most everything up until 1965 was all 10 spline with tapered rear axle. Notice that your rear pumpkin is offset. This stayed this way until AMC took over and changed it in 1972. There's two other versions of the Dana 44 rear. 65 thru 69 was 19 spline tapered, and 70, 71 32 spline. What I mean by tapered is this: Axle is tapered at it's end, and has a woodruff key machined in like a harmonic balancer on a crank. Hub was then pressed on. Only the 70, 71 Dana 44 side drive 32 spline has flanged axles and is highly sought after.
I noticed your Jeep has been lifted with taller shackles. If you put a shorter shackle it would probably solve your driveshaft issue.

[dStuck]

Originally Posted by MrWillys

I'm guessing that you have a Dana 41 rear, and model 25 front by looking at your pictures, but see here:
http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d41.html
The cool thing about jeeps that alot of people don't know. The government designed the Jeep to be simplistic. The bearings in the rear axle is the same as bearings in the transfercase, transmission, and front axle. Most everything up until 1965 was all 10 spline with tapered rear axle. Notice that your rear pumpkin is offset. This stayed this way until AMC took over and changed it in 1972. There's two other versions of the Dana 44 rear. 65 thru 69 was 19 spline tapered, and 70, 71 32 spline. What I mean by tapered is this: Axle is tapered at it's end, and has a woodruff key machined in like a harmonic balancer on a crank. Hub was then pressed on. Only the 70, 71 Dana 44 side drive 32 spline has flanged axles and is highly sought after.
I noticed your Jeep has been lifted with taller shackles. If you put a shorter shackle it would probably solve your driveshaft issue.

ok awesome man thanks for all the info, trying too learn as much as i can on these old CJ's before i really start digging into the build. and yeah i was thinkin about lowering it some, but i still plan on going SOA with some longer/ flatter leafs, but thats going too be after i get it running.

also how strong are the the stock 41/ 25? strong enough for the 327 and the 33's that are on it if im easy on it? or should i not push my luck till i get new axles?

[dStuck]

figured something out, when i first picked up the jeep i had no trouble with binding with the rear driveshaft and soon as i got it home after the 2 hour drive back it was... well im starting the tear down of the jeep ( will post pics later ) and realized the rachet strap that was holding the front of the transmision level ( PO's work ) had snapped and the front of the trans is sitting wayy low... so hopefully after i get it back level it should be all fine, especially because when the jeep is done im going for a LCG build and it should sit as it is not or hopefully a little lower... not sure where SOA+ the longer flatter springs will have it sit.

on another note found a crack in the trans.... you guys think it's weldable? also i need too find out what Trans it is that the PO had put in...

[MrWillys]

I'm going to assume you have a TH-350 by looking at your pictures. You might weld it. Your diff's will hold up to 33's if you go easy on the stupid pedal in the rocks. Your 25 is technically superior to my 27. I just go easy on it in the rocks.
I put alot of horsepower into my 44 19 spline, and it takes it. I'm talking like beating those little turbo Suburu's?

[dStuck]

Originally Posted by MrWillys

I'm going to assume you have a TH-350 by looking at your pictures. You might weld it. Your diff's will hold up to 33's if you go easy on the stupid pedal in the rocks. Your 25 is technically superior to my 27. I just go easy on it in the rocks.
I put alot of horsepower into my 44 19 spline, and it takes it. I'm talking like beating those little turbo Suburu's?

ok cool, one thing i just though about tho, with how the rear axle is offset, if i did get axles out of that 80's grand Cherokee would it be alright with the differential in the center? not sure if it would even really affect anything but better too ask.

[dStuck]

well got as much done today as i could since my buddy couldnt come help me get the body off the frame...

[ghiradelli777]

if you call that body rough, my jeep is beat then!

not too bad looking for 51

[dStuck]

Originally Posted by ghiradelli777

if you call that body rough, my jeep is beat then!

not too bad looking for 51

haha it just has a LOT of Bondo hiding everything seems like an inch or so in some places haha, but i plan on getting it all cleaned up and straight before paint

also what all are the good spring swaps that are used in these? searched a little but though id see what you guys think? my XJ's seem like they may be a little long but im not sure how they compare too the YJ's.