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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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1948 CJ2A restomod build
Here are the specs:
Original frame, gusseted, blasted, primered and painted Reproduction tub, original fenders, hood and windshield Chevy 4.3 carbed from 85 Astro van (new shortblock at some time) turbo 350 tranny power steering conversion Tilt "bling" steering column hanging pedal conversion new painless harness lokar shifter Lokar ebrake Auto meter gauges dana 44 rear 3.73 11" drums dana 27 front chevy front disc brake system dana 300 tom woods cv shaft 74 CJ 5 lowback seats ( JY find, in great cond) true dual exhaust Swapping in an open knuckle 30 soon and building a 2pc front drive shaft ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Last edited by BKWUDZ; 02-27-2012 at 08:28 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171057
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 566
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Thats one very good looking machine you got there. I plan to do a similar bling steering conversion, i assume thats a flaming river column, could you elaborate on your steering tech?
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1950 CJ3A Wilma FJ60 axle build in progress 1999 Ford F350 PSD Betty tow pig/adventurmobile |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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One of mods i have been chomping at the bit to do is moving the tank from under the seat to under the bed, i have had the tank and skid i thought i needed for a while and was just waiting for the free time to install them. Finally i was getting ready to do the swap, that was until i actually got under the jeep with this tank
![]() even with removing the hitch support, there was no way it was going to fit, unless the moved the cross member forward, with the tub on, that would be a very hard, and would probably be an issue with the diff hitting the skid. that tank is about 16-1\4" and then another 3\4" for the flange on each side, it was not going to fit like i hoped, so i set out to find another tank. This is a 1978 postal jeep tank, it is exactly 15-3\4 deep with no flange to deal with. It fit the skid i bought very well after some work to it. ![]() To make this fit where i wanted, i had to remove the rear cross member, it was a little tweaked anyways. It will be replaced with some angle steel and a heavy duty bumper i built for an old YJ project i never used. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() the bumper needs some cleaning and paint, but it will be perfect. ![]() ![]() [/QUOTE] Last edited by BKWUDZ; 02-27-2012 at 09:42 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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in the weeds lurkin
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86194
Location: apple valley ca, 35 miles from hammer town
Posts: 586
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your talent and skill have gotten you this far, make your own tank. 3 bend with 3/16" for the front/bottom/ and back, 3 bends 1/8" for 2 sides and top. put your fittings where you need them. one angle to mount to the cross over the axle, one to the rear crossmember and you have a tank that you can stand the jeep on. done this many times. have one in a cj5 i pushed the rear back 5" and still got a 17gl tank in it. nice jeep
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USN 2x Viet Nam Vet. member Victor Valley 4 Wheelers hammer road crew 42willys 109" rock dog with some stuff 51 willys 106" with some fast stuff retired wheeler
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Rear tank all done, i think i am going to love all the foot room there is with the underseat tank gone
![]() ![]() I was going to put the filler in the rear quarter, but ended up in the back, it just looked better, and is hidden by the rear carrier. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Ended up replacing all the brakes line after i found some sketch stuff the prev owner did under there.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 4962
Location: san francisco
Posts: 1,274
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nice work and nice jeep....chris
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'48 cj2a --my '48 build: /forum/jeep-willys/1004065-not-build-thread-but-kind-just-tryin-help-others.html '99 Dodge CTD 4x4 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Figured while I was in the zone, I would knock another item off the list, the fenderwell notch to get the seats back and down a bit. I can't believe how much more comfortable it is behind the seat now.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Tank is in, filled and no leaks, 14 gal woohoo, fired right up running good, but is popping out the right side exhaust, need to check that out The fender well notch makes for some much improves driving comfort, the seats are only moved down 1" and back about 2 1/2", but it is a big improvement. It is also much nicer with the under seat tank out of the way
Now on to the front, with a rebuild and then swap in the D30 sitting on the bench. I even got an inspection sticker yesterday not an easy task in the great state of mass
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Well, some tranny issues over the weekend point to the fact the tranny is on the way out I believe. So now i have to figure out what i want to do.
1, rebuild the t350 and keep it, deal with the front drive shaft clearance issue, the solution will be a 2pc shaft, which was my original plan 2, replace the auto with a standard, i little more work, but would eliminate my front drive shaft issue. For now, i am going to toss in a trans medic and see if it swells the seals enough to help, and drive it till it won't move. A buddy had a good sm465 with a AA d300 adapter on it, i would still need a belhousing, flywheel, clutch for a 4.3, don't know how easy they would be to get |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member # 150843
Location: Ashtabula, OH
Posts: 30
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All the same as sbc, I have a 4.3, sm465 novac adapter with dana 20 transfere case. I have a extra manual clutch bellhousing for the 465 I swaped to a hydraulic clutch bellhousing. Pm me if your interested.
Last edited by early 46; 04-30-2012 at 05:12 PM. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Good news, i don't think the th350 is dieing. It was just low on fluid, i didn't know this at first because of the POS flexible dip stick i am using. I knew it sucked from day one, when i went to check the tranny level with the fluid warm, the actual stick part is plastic, and gets as soft as a wet noodle, total useless.
But apparently the fluid level marks are off too, that was causing the slipping. I was down two quarts at least, added them, and it pulls fine. I need to find a stock dip stick and then bend it to fit, the fluid level could still be off a bit, don't know. I had her out cruising around this weekend, and she shifts fine again, back to chirping the tires again from 1st to 2nd when i get on it.
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18307
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 188
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Sadly little to report here, my d30 swap hit a snag, the caliper brackes i had are NG, so i need to get a couple more.
I did get some new sneakers...some goodyear MTR's in the 33x12.50 size, they fit perfect!, pics to follow |
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#18 (permalink) |
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I drive it rusty.
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What brand are those tail lights? look like the rare ones people are after.
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DavezOffRoadPerformance For ALL Your Used and New Toyota Truck and 4runner Parts. Need new Haters, the old ones are starting to like me.
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