Silent Hunter's Willys Build - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Willys
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-28-2011, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
Silent Hunter's Willys Build

I started this build last year with a $25 purchase of a 1946 cj2a, and then everything got put on pause. Well it's time to get started again. I am not a hardcore rock crawler, but want to build a rig that can get me in and out of where I need to go for hunting and play on the trails. I have built hot rod trucks before, but never a 4x4 from the ground up.

Any advice during the build would be great and I will answer any questions that I can. I have received a lot of help already from RCKME52 and WILDWILLY4X4, both of them are really great guys. My build was based of these two builds. I like the stretched look of rckme52's build and the stance of wildwilly4x4 build.

buy the way I like pictures, I learn more from posts with pictures instead of reading. I hope this can help someone else out. If you do not like pictures, this is not a thread for you!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...questions.html

rckme52's build /forum/jeep-willys/424008-family-flatty-strech-progress-pics.html


wildwilly4x4 build http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=willys+m38
http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredve...m38/index.html


Specs for the build:
1946 cj2a with 16" of stretch (cj7 size tub) 101"WB
2x4x3/16" tube frame
2.5" yj bds soa
1993 4.3 Chevy (going with a carb.)
SM420
Novak adapter
Dana 300
Dana 44 front and rear (for now) rear changed to 65" wms ford 9 inch
hydro assist
35" goodyear MTR (for now)

Last edited by 1946CJ2; 10-20-2014 at 11:41 PM.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-28-2011, 11:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
My $25 dollar flatty after I stripped it down. I lost the complete pics from befor the strip down.



1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 03-28-2011, 11:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
First, was the first frame build. I read and decided to go with 2x4x1/8" tube for the frame. I was able to build the frame pretty quick.




I was very happy with the build, until I went to bed and got a bad feeling. I got up the next morning and told my wife I was going to rebuild the frame with .188 steel tubing. I feel that it would be better, safer, and less work by not having to plate the frame on every mount. so I went out in the garage and cut it all apart.



1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-28-2011, 11:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
Rock God
 
csutton7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 4962
Location: san francisco
Posts: 1,651
yea rckme52's flatty is kewl and he's a great guy(as you know, and his brother is too)--I see it almost everyday--and it's a good one to emulate---I will be doing the same with my 48 shortly(I hope)--will be checkin' in here to see your progress---chris
__________________
'48 cj2a --my '48 build: /forum/jeep-willys/1004065-not-build-thread-but-kind-just-tryin-help-others.html
'99 Dodge CTD 4x4
csutton7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 12:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
Well I got started on the new frame. Some guys are afraid of trying to build their own frame (I think) because they do not have a jig. Well this is how I built mine and it came out perfectly straight.

I started buy clamping the first two part to a third piece of steel tubing and tack welding it.



Next I clamped the second frame rail to the first and tacked it.



Then for the rear section of the frame, I clamped it to the mid section.



Close up picture of how I clamped the frame.



The next two pic is of checking the frame to be straight before final welding.



You need to spin the rails on top of each other and make sure it is straight in both directions.


Once it was all welded up I cut .25 steel plate for the gussets. I did both sides and all 4 joints.



While I was building the frame I had a nice buck walk across my yard.


Last edited by 1946CJ2; 08-17-2013 at 03:52 PM.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 12:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
The floor boards in my flattie was garbage (rusted out). I think it is a little over kill, but a made the bracing and then started to weld the sheet metal to it





Cut the body in half and and the floor boards out.



I then started on the back half.



all of my cutting was done with my circ saw and a metal blade from home depot.



All of my bending was done by clamping the sheet metal between two pieces of angle iron and useing a rubber mallet.



Made the back of the tub first.



then the inside fender



I also cut the floor out of a wrecked chevy pickup bed.



I set the back on the frame and decided how much I wanted to stretch it in the door and behind the door.

Last edited by 1946CJ2; 03-29-2011 at 12:49 AM.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 01:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I decided to stretch it 9" in the door and 7" behind the door.

I made a jig to bend the metal around for the u shape on the top edge.



I cut the curved edge off the body, welded it to the new panel, and then bent the lower side around the jig.





both sides are done and ready for fitting.



I then fitted to the body and decided to splice it in in the smallest part of the rear fender.



you can see here where I added length.



Next I did the front side of the inside fender well.

1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 10:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31476
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 237
Looks great!
__________________
Pete
Willys Wagon Build
JeepinPete is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 03:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
Wingin it....
 
73FJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 19742
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
Posts: 304
Send a message via Skype™ to 73FJ
Nice fab work, well done.
__________________
I ain't gonna hit ya............ahhhh the HELL I ain't. John Wayne. Mclintock.

Pirate, please make a Willys section....... c'mon I said please. YAY!

Now with FJ 45 flavor!

Willys wagon build thread
/forum/jeep-willys/817672-59-willys-circle-wagons.html
73FJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-29-2011, 05:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 172378
Location: AZ
Posts: 375
Very nice. I hope my GPW turns out half as nice.
Mad Machinist is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2011, 11:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
Posted a question about what starter to use in the Chevy forum. I did not want to double post the question, but I will add the link in case someone here could answer it.

/forum/chevy/969317-what-starter-4-3tbi-sm420-168-flywheel.html

I think I found the answer searching google.

I need to use the old 3 bolt starter that mounts to the bell housing or you can grind out the bell housing and nose cone of the new starter to make it fit.

Last edited by 1946CJ2; 04-01-2011 at 12:16 PM.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-01-2011, 11:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I ordered my flywheel and clutch kit today. It seems like a decent deal ($254 shipped off ebay), since I need everything including the bolts.

http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=3859577
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-02-2011, 10:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I had a fellow member ask about how I mounted my drive train. I made the tranny mount and the motor mount I bought from this site http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1959.html.









1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-02-2011, 11:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Member # 26938
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 81
Thanks Rodney.
__________________
1983 cj-7 350/sm420/d300. 38's on 44/14bolt (work in progress)
2006 LJ 4.o/auto/NP231. 33's on 30/44 (its getting there)
I don't post, just [COLOR="Lime"]lurk![/COLOR]
snafu is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2011, 07:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 9991
Location: Cold Springs, NV
Posts: 2,481
Kudo's to you. It takes a mature craftsman to know when something should be redone. Most people run .188 wall frames when rebuilding. Looks like you're on the right path.
__________________
[url]www.scotthansen.net[/url]
MrWillys is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2011, 10:44 AM   #16 (permalink)
Rock God
 
SVARAS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Member # 9310
Location: Chile
Posts: 1,386
Great build...please tell me you are not going to comp cut the rear fenders !
__________________
4WOR 2012 Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Willys MB LSX 2013
SVARAS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2011, 02:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVARAS View Post
Great build...please tell me you are not going to comp cut the rear fenders !
The passenger rear corner is pretty rough and the drivers side needs work. I am thinking about cutting them like rckme52's and then if I link it to 105" it's already to go, I am at 101" currently.

1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-03-2011, 06:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
Rock God
 
SVARAS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Member # 9310
Location: Chile
Posts: 1,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1946CJ2 View Post
The passenger rear corner is pretty rough and the drivers side needs work. I am thinking about cutting them like rckme52's and then if I link it to 105" it's already to go, I am at 101" currently.

IMO even if you leave a minimal part of the fender, it makes huge diference....check the old Currie TJ "The fire ant"
__________________
4WOR 2012 Ultimate Adventure Invited Reader
Willys MB LSX 2013
SVARAS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2011, 12:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I made a new tranny mount (cross member) today and lowered my engine. I was going to try and and keep the belly flat but it was causing to many problems. My lowest point is about 2.5" below the frame rail now.

After I dropped the drive train, I check and set my front drive shaft angle and figured out how much I had to turn my knuckles. I am going to try my first cut and turn, hopefully it goes well.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-09-2011, 01:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I did my first cut and turn, and it was not bad at all.

I read somewhere to use wd40 to help find the thin crack, when grinding. I was not for sure how this would help, but I did it. the wd40 sucks the rust out of the crack and makes it a lot easier to see.



Then I had to come up with an axle clamp.



To weld the c's back on, I did 3 stack welds.



I am thinking about making some gusset braces tomorrow for the front c's.
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-09-2011, 05:26 AM   #21 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
WildWilly4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17680
Location: Sunray,TX
Posts: 750
Looks really good, glad to see you making progress on it!
__________________
'50 m38, 60, 14bolt, 4.3, 420, dana 300, 35" krawlers on trailready's/ '80 Blazer 60,14 bolt, tpi 350, th400, 205, 35" swampers

Link to my M38 build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=willys+m38
WildWilly4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-29-2011, 11:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I got my steering box mounted (I stole the mount idea from Svaras steering box). My steering box is from a 1997 s10 pickup. The pitman arm is from a wagoneer. I also made my tie rod and drag length, today (1.5"x.25 dom with 1 ton chevy tre's). My high steer arms are made by the guy who builds them for sky manufacturing. He sells them on ebay for a good price. I left the drag link / pitman arm joint a little high thinking once I get more weight on the front of the rig and the springs start to sag, it will level out.





__________________
[url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=968398[/url]
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2011, 11:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I got the floor boards all welded in today. I still have some grinding and clean up to do on them. I think they will look pretty good covered in bedliner. I am debating on cutting the dash out and replacing it. I used 10 ga for the drivers side firewall, for the pedals to hang off of. I just got my wilwood pedals from Summit and will try and get them mounted tomorrow.







__________________
[url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=968398[/url]
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-02-2011, 09:57 PM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 141981
Location: Murphys, CA
Posts: 1,210
Send a message via ICQ to 1946CJ2
I got some work done yesterday. To start with My flywheel and clutch kit. Everything fit and bolted up great, between the sm420 and the chevy 4.3. The kit was for a 92 chevy pickup.



The adapter ring was from novak to mate the sm420 with the sm465 bellhousing.



The bellhousing I used was from a 65 chevy pickup with a factory clutch slave. However, I can not use the stock exhaust manifold no, because it dumps out into the slave.



I got my firewall all welded up.



And I mounted my wilwood clutch and brake master / pedals. Wilwood rep, said it should work with no problem, will see. If not I do have a hydroboost set up, but I did not want to run it if I do not have to. I did leave enough room to mount the hydroboost in the same location as the brake mastercylinder, without moving the clutch master.
__________________
[url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=968398[/url]
1946CJ2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-06-2011, 05:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
Ford Bigot
 
FordFascist's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 31227
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 1,699
This build looks very familiar....

Here's my take on it:
  • .188 Wall tubing is overkill. There's no real strength increase in beaming which translates to the frame bowing with weight in the center, or to twisting with regard to the other frame rail.
  • Put longer leafs in the rear. Short leafs are prone to bending especially in rear applications.
  • Your body work is excellent
  • I will take credit for the 1x1 tubing floor idea
  • The mullet engine (SBC) is disappointing for this Ford person to see
  • Don't comp cut it...please
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnYota
It sucks I took a dump earlier, now I'll never know if that roll would have caused me to crap my pants

Project Flat F***er (Fender)

Project SR5.0
FordFascist is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.