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Old 05-13-2011, 12:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1946 CJ2A "Scarlet"

This isn't hardcore, and I admit I bought what you see here, but I'm working towards making this better.



It has a 289 bored .060 over with "RV Cam #2" (whatever that means) and a 650 Holley 4 barrel. The tranny is a 4 speed, but I'm pretty sure it's out of a car (first gear is pretty tall). Warn overdrive, limited slip front and rear, and weather checked 11-15 LT tires (32"?).

I bought it for a fair price, and have been kicking the chit out of that little firecracker of a 289 since.

Tonight we went to Walker Valley, and I was able to engage low range at the transfer case, but not 4 wheel drive. It has two shifters on the transfer case, the right one for low, neutral and high range, the left for 2WD and 4WD. No matter what combination of hub and shifter positions, I couldn't get power to the front wheels. Any ideas?

The carb is running pig-rich; it's a Holley 650cfm off a mid-60s Corvette. I'm thinking it's just too big for low rpm wheeling, because when you kick the throttle the Jeep charges towards the horizon like a cheetah on meth. Maybe a smaller carb would be less... twitchy? I changed the power valve to see if I could get it to draw less fuel at low vacuum, but 6.5 and 7.5 power valves didn't fix it.

After those two are good, what do you suggest next?
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Dunno about your carb problem, but, assuming you still have a Dana 18 transfer case (since you do have a Warn Overdrive---yes there were some Warn Overdrives for a Dana 20 but I digress) left stick is for 4wd/2wd, right stick is for Low, Neutral, High. Unless someone removed the shift lock pill, you cannot engage low range in 2wd. Pulling the right stick back toward the rear will engage 4wd. If it has locking hubs (manual presumably) turn them clockwise, you may have to rock the Jeep back and fourth if the hub is old enough, to get them to engage.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Dana 18? Cool. Yeah, I was definitely in low, but not 4WD. I wonder if the hubs weren't engaging. I tried clockwise and counter. Hmmm, I'll go try them again. Thanks for the knowledge.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Post a picture of what lockouts you have. How could you tell the front wasn't engaged?
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If the front hubs are unlocked and you put the transfer case in 4wd, is the front drive shaft turning like the rear shaft? If yes, look more into your axles / hubs. If it's not turning look into your transfer case.
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Old 05-14-2011, 01:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The drive line spins when I'm driving around with the transfer case in 2WD, which makes me think the hubs are locked. Am I thinking about this right?
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Old 05-14-2011, 01:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The drive line spins when I'm driving around with the transfer case in 2WD, which makes me think the hubs are locked. Am I thinking about this right?
If it has locking hubs, and the front drive shaft is spinning, yes, they are locked. It's possible that it was never converted to locking hubs, and you are still running drive flanges (front axle always engaged) if that's the case, don't worry about the front end.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The drive line spins when I'm driving around with the transfer case in 2WD, which makes me think the hubs are locked. Am I thinking about this right?
Maybe. But it could be in 4wd and the hubs unlocked for all your know. Here's what I would do.

As you and sammyg mentioned, the left stick on the t-case is 2-4 and the right stick is H-N-L. Pull the right stick all the way back (high) and push the left stick all the way forward (2wd). Now, unlock your hubs. Now, see if you can spin the front driveshaft. Obviously, you should be able to spin it.

Next, try locking the hubs and try spinning the shaft by hand. If you can't spin it, they are locked. If you can, then you have a problem with your frontend. (if you had an open knuckle front end you would be able to tell what's going on, if one side or another is or isn't spinning, etc. Assuming you have a stock-ish D25 or D27 closed knuckle front end, you won't be able to see anything).

As sammyg mentioned, some of the older hubs need to be 'aligned' before they will engage. I usually get lucky on mine, but when I don't, rolling the jeep forward or back a tiny bit is usually enough to get it to align so I can engage the hub.

If it passes that test, then try unlocking the hubs and pull the left shifter back to 4wd. You should no longer be able to spin the driveshaft.

If the last test doesn't work, you've got a problem in your t-case.

Anyway, that's what I would do. If you find that that both the t-case and hubs appear to be working, but you still don't have 4wd in the 'real world' then either you've got something else going on (I don't know what, maybe a half broke hub or something like that if such a thing is even possible) or you are confusing an open differential with not having 4wd...

I know that sounds retarded but I've known people that were convinced their 4wd was broke and the only thing wrong was their understanding of how it works....

HTH a bit.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The drive line spins when I'm driving around with the transfer case in 2WD, which makes me think the hubs are locked. Am I thinking about this right?
The drive shaft may turn, but is it turnung at full speed in 2wd? the shaft may turn at a slower speed slower speed and not be engaged.

If it is in 2wd and the both front wheels are on the ground (and parked / tires blocked), can you spin the front drive shaft by hand? if yes your front is not locking in. If you put the transfer case in 4wd high and try to turn/spin the front drive shaft back and forth the rear drive shaft should rock back and forth too.

you may have 1 hub that is not locking and is letting the 1 side of the axle spin free, when in 4wd.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I do not know why, I did not see jalbrecht42's post before I posted my post.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input, guys. I picked up some doors, roof bows and a tire carrier tonight. I should be able to tinker with Scarlet tomorrow, and I'll let you know what I find between the transfer case shifters and the hubs.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, I got the transfer case and hub combination worked out, but forgot to update you guys. Scarlet works fine, and all four tires spin now, thanks in part to the tight LSDs front and rear.

I also entered her in a car show:




It was fun firing the little 289 up and watching people's necks snap around to look for the built Mustang. And, yes, they had me park between the rows of cars in the grass median. One 1956 Chevy on mid-'70s GM 4WD running gear couldn't follow me over the rocky entrance and had to park between a '77 Trans Am and '66 Chevelle.

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Old 07-10-2011, 10:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I Found a dirtbike trail near my home to stretch the Willys' legs on. Got stuck, took pics, then cut down the trees and drove home. Overall, a pretty good day.








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Old 07-10-2011, 10:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I Found a dirtbike trail near my home.....cut down the trees and drove home. Overall, a pretty good day.
I Really hope you were on private land and not public land... if it was public land shame on you for driving on a dirtbike trail and cutting the trees down

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Old 07-11-2011, 09:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The carb is running pig-rich; it's a Holley 650cfm off a mid-60s Corvette. I'm thinking it's just too big for low rpm wheeling, because when you kick the throttle the Jeep charges towards the horizon like a cheetah on meth. Maybe a smaller carb would be less... twitchy? I changed the power valve to see if I could get it to draw less fuel at low vacuum, but 6.5 and 7.5 power valves didn't fix it.
You changed the PV and it's still rich? Some one might have messed weith Jetting .Or the float levels are too high. On the carburetor air horn is a list number like R-xxxx.Post the number ,I have Holley parts books and can tell you what carb you got and the stock jets.
A 600-650 CFM is a little bigger than necessary but it should be ok since low speed is running on the primary two barrel.A smaller carb whil actually "sharpen" low speed response.And you got maybe 250 HP in a very light vehicle,it's gonna be a bit jumpy
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I Really hope you were on private land and not public land... if it was public land shame on you for driving on a dirtbike trail and cutting the trees down
It was private land.

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You changed the PV and it's still rich? Some one might have messed weith Jetting .Or the float levels are too high. On the carburetor air horn is a list number like R-xxxx.Post the number ,I have Holley parts books and can tell you what carb you got and the stock jets.
A 600-650 CFM is a little bigger than necessary but it should be ok since low speed is running on the primary two barrel.A smaller carb whil actually "sharpen" low speed response.And you got maybe 250 HP in a very light vehicle,it's gonna be a bit jumpy
I'll get that number for you.
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The carb was a Holley 2818. We swapped it out yesterday for an Edelbrock, and now the rig idles smoothly, doesn't smell like raw fuel, and rolls down the road like a new car. It really is a night and day kind of difference. I also installed some lightly used 33" BFG mud terrains yesterday.


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