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Old 07-02-2011, 09:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Learn me on boxing frames.

I know it's a noobie question to ask, and I'm more than capable of doing it, but, when you guys box the frame do you put the box flush with the lips of the original frame, or do you inset it a bit, say 1/8"? And, when boxing, how are you rust proofing the inside of the frame, POR? Weld through primer? I figure it may be necessary to do now with the SBC power.
Thanks
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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My frame cracked where the front cross member meets the passenger side frame rail. Honestly, I would research some frame builds and go 2"x4"x3/16" box. This gets rid of those pesky holes, and you get all new steel. You wouldn't be trying to weld to 60 year old metal.
If you do insist on boxing yours. I'd go out to out, or over the top of the box lips.
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Old 07-03-2011, 04:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The most important part is to weld an inch then skip a foot and weld another inch. Trust me when I say you can warp a frame by too much heat.
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWillys View Post
My frame cracked where the front cross member meets the passenger side frame rail. Honestly, I would research some frame builds and go 2"x4"x3/16" box. This gets rid of those pesky holes, and you get all new steel. You wouldn't be trying to weld to 60 year old metal.
If you do insist on boxing yours. I'd go out to out, or over the top of the box lips.
Thanks, funds aren't there to build a frame and mine's actually in really good shape. When I put the V8 in I boxed it all the way back to the front spring hangers, and the rear is boxed as well. Just from front to rear spring hangers it's not boxed. It actually welds surprisingly nice for being super low carbon.
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The most important part is to weld an inch then skip a foot and weld another inch. Trust me when I say you can warp a frame by too much heat.
Yep, weld opposites and all that as well. I'll probably TIG it as well.
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i started with a cj6 frame clean of all brackets. i put a 1 3/4" x 3/16" strap the entire length of the bottom of theframe, then installed the spring hangers and boxed where needed. i have been running this for 14 years on everything from the hammers down. i have broken a lot of stuff but never the frame.
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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2 x 4 x .125. Don't bother trying to box a Willy's frame. 99% of them I've seen are stress cracked up and down the frame between the crossmembers.

3/16" has minimal gains in strength vs extra weight as far as a boxed frame goes.
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Old 07-09-2011, 04:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't do anything to the stock frame until you have carefully checked it to see if it's bent out of alignment.And cracks as mentioned............
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Old 07-09-2011, 08:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I boxed mine about 10 years ago. Within 3 years I had upgraded to sbc, spring over and bigger axles. It lived for about 6 years. Now it seems like I am repairing the frame after every trip. This winter I am building a new frame out of 2x4 x1/8. Wish I would have done it 10 years ago.
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Old 07-09-2011, 04:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Most light trucks built 50-60 years ago had very stiff springs and flexible frames. it was the thinking back then and pretty much opposite of modern chassis design.You box the frame and it can't flex in the middle and the stress starts fatigue cracks.This is how my non engineer mind sees it.
A boxed frame is ok for moderate off road use with reasonable HP.Like said above,if you're into serious off road,build with V-8 power ,build a frame or have one built and sell the stock frame to guy with a stock truck needing a frame.
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Old 07-13-2011, 11:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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strip it down, spend a $100 and get it sand blasted

this will help you find issues early.
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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frame

back in the 80,s the off road racers would weld straps top and bottom of the frame to allow some flex. remember, what doesn,t flex, breaks. plus it is alot easier. like others have said on here, look closely at your frame before you create a very strong "bent" frame.
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i forgot to say my willys has a 425 hp 350, 700r4 d300 44's/5.38/detroits,37's s/o with 2 1/2 yj springs. 23" at the skid plate and runs the hammers on a regular basis. again that was 14 years with no cracks in the frame. broke everything else but not the frame. i think the 8 point cage had a lot to do with it
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