Learn me on boxing frames. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

sammyg · 07-02-2011, 09:17 PM

I know it's a noobie question to ask, and I'm more than capable of doing it, but, when you guys box the frame do you put the box flush with the lips of the original frame, or do you inset it a bit, say 1/8"? And, when boxing, how are you rust proofing the inside of the frame, POR? Weld through primer? I figure it may be necessary to do now with the SBC power.
Thanks

MrWillys · 07-03-2011, 03:59 AM

My frame cracked where the front cross member meets the passenger side frame rail. Honestly, I would research some frame builds and go 2"x4"x3/16" box. This gets rid of those pesky holes, and you get all new steel. You wouldn't be trying to weld to 60 year old metal.
If you do insist on boxing yours. I'd go out to out, or over the top of the box lips.

GubNi · 07-03-2011, 04:23 AM

The most important part is to weld an inch then skip a foot and weld another inch. Trust me when I say you can warp a frame by too much heat.

sammyg · 07-03-2011, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrWillys

My frame cracked where the front cross member meets the passenger side frame rail. Honestly, I would research some frame builds and go 2"x4"x3/16" box. This gets rid of those pesky holes, and you get all new steel. You wouldn't be trying to weld to 60 year old metal.
If you do insist on boxing yours. I'd go out to out, or over the top of the box lips.

Thanks, funds aren't there to build a frame and mine's actually in really good shape. When I put the V8 in I boxed it all the way back to the front spring hangers, and the rear is boxed as well. Just from front to rear spring hangers it's not boxed. It actually welds surprisingly nice for being super low carbon.

sammyg · 07-03-2011, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GubNi

The most important part is to weld an inch then skip a foot and weld another inch. Trust me when I say you can warp a frame by too much heat.

Yep, weld opposites and all that as well. I'll probably TIG it as well.

wilez5150 · 07-04-2011, 09:13 AM

i started with a cj6 frame clean of all brackets. i put a 1 3/4" x 3/16" strap the entire length of the bottom of theframe, then installed the spring hangers and boxed where needed. i have been running this for 14 years on everything from the hammers down. i have broken a lot of stuff but never the frame.

FordFascist · 07-07-2011, 03:25 PM

2 x 4 x .125. Don't bother trying to box a Willy's frame. 99% of them I've seen are stress cracked up and down the frame between the crossmembers.

3/16" has minimal gains in strength vs extra weight as far as a boxed frame goes.

I got the Willys · 07-09-2011, 04:57 AM

Don't do anything to the stock frame until you have carefully checked it to see if it's bent out of alignment.And cracks as mentioned............

elarsen · 07-09-2011, 08:00 AM

I boxed mine about 10 years ago. Within 3 years I had upgraded to sbc, spring over and bigger axles. It lived for about 6 years. Now it seems like I am repairing the frame after every trip. This winter I am building a new frame out of 2x4 x1/8. Wish I would have done it 10 years ago.

I got the Willys · 07-09-2011, 04:25 PM

Most light trucks built 50-60 years ago had very stiff springs and flexible frames. it was the thinking back then and pretty much opposite of modern chassis design.You box the frame and it can't flex in the middle and the stress starts fatigue cracks.This is how my non engineer mind sees it.
A boxed frame is ok for moderate off road use with reasonable HP.Like said above,if you're into serious off road,build with V-8 power ,build a frame or have one built and sell the stock frame to guy with a stock truck needing a frame.

fcfred · 07-13-2011, 11:22 AM

strip it down, spend a $100 and get it sand blasted

this will help you find issues early.

gearedfather · 07-15-2011, 05:13 PM

back in the 80,s the off road racers would weld straps top and bottom of the frame to allow some flex. remember, what doesn,t flex, breaks. plus it is alot easier. like others have said on here, look closely at your frame before you create a very strong "bent" frame.

wilez5150 · 07-24-2011, 07:19 PM

i forgot to say my willys has a 425 hp 350, 700r4 d300 44's/5.38/detroits,37's s/o with 2 1/2 yj springs. 23" at the skid plate and runs the hammers on a regular basis. again that was 14 years with no cracks in the frame. broke everything else but not the frame. i think the 8 point cage had a lot to do with it

07-02-2011, 09:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
sammyg Rock God Join Date: Aug 2007 Member # 98177 Location: Burque Essay! Posts: 1,195	Learn me on boxing frames. I know it's a noobie question to ask, and I'm more than capable of doing it, but, when you guys box the frame do you put the box flush with the lips of the original frame, or do you inset it a bit, say 1/8"? And, when boxing, how are you rust proofing the inside of the frame, POR? Weld through primer? I figure it may be necessary to do now with the SBC power. Thanks __________________ I don't always show my signature. But when I do, it's in this area.

07-03-2011, 03:59 AM	#2 (permalink)
MrWillys Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 9991 Location: Cold Springs, NV Posts: 2,344	My frame cracked where the front cross member meets the passenger side frame rail. Honestly, I would research some frame builds and go 2"x4"x3/16" box. This gets rid of those pesky holes, and you get all new steel. You wouldn't be trying to weld to 60 year old metal. If you do insist on boxing yours. I'd go out to out, or over the top of the box lips. __________________ [url]www.scotthansen.net[/url]

07-03-2011, 04:23 AM	#3 (permalink)
GubNi Rock God Join Date: Jan 2004 Member # 25927 Location: Northeast TN Posts: 2,161	The most important part is to weld an inch then skip a foot and weld another inch. Trust me when I say you can warp a frame by too much heat. __________________ Dana 60 or 14 bolt disk brake kits $315 shipped --> click here Dana 70 kits $300 --> click here . . Sterling 10.25 kits $390 --> click here Dana 60 front 3/4 ton kits $350--> click here

07-13-2011, 11:22 AM	#11 (permalink)
fcfred 4xdork Join Date: Feb 2001 Member # 3263 Location: not portland Posts: 3,162	strip it down, spend a $100 and get it sand blasted this will help you find issues early. __________________ Team Tank old junk, new junk, unfinished junk Live Large-RIP Jason Payne ARMY TRUCK STOLEN!

07-15-2011, 05:13 PM	#12 (permalink)
gearedfather Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Member # 165627 Location: twin cities mn Posts: 151	frame back in the 80,s the off road racers would weld straps top and bottom of the frame to allow some flex. remember, what doesn,t flex, breaks. plus it is alot easier. like others have said on here, look closely at your frame before you create a very strong "bent" frame.

07-04-2011, 09:13 AM	#6 (permalink)
wilez5150 Granite Guru Join Date: Jan 2007 Member # 86194 Location: apple valley ca, 35 miles from hammer town Posts: 579	i started with a cj6 frame clean of all brackets. i put a 1 3/4" x 3/16" strap the entire length of the bottom of theframe, then installed the spring hangers and boxed where needed. i have been running this for 14 years on everything from the hammers down. i have broken a lot of stuff but never the frame.

07-09-2011, 04:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
I got the Willys Banned Join Date: Apr 2011 Member # 188016 Location: To be announced Posts: 85	Don't do anything to the stock frame until you have carefully checked it to see if it's bent out of alignment.And cracks as mentioned............

07-09-2011, 08:00 AM	#9 (permalink)
elarsen Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Member # 18320 Location: Lake County Posts: 1,113	I boxed mine about 10 years ago. Within 3 years I had upgraded to sbc, spring over and bigger axles. It lived for about 6 years. Now it seems like I am repairing the frame after every trip. This winter I am building a new frame out of 2x4 x1/8. Wish I would have done it 10 years ago.

07-09-2011, 04:25 PM	#10 (permalink)
I got the Willys Banned Join Date: Apr 2011 Member # 188016 Location: To be announced Posts: 85	Most light trucks built 50-60 years ago had very stiff springs and flexible frames. it was the thinking back then and pretty much opposite of modern chassis design.You box the frame and it can't flex in the middle and the stress starts fatigue cracks.This is how my non engineer mind sees it. A boxed frame is ok for moderate off road use with reasonable HP.Like said above,if you're into serious off road,build with V-8 power ,build a frame or have one built and sell the stock frame to guy with a stock truck needing a frame.

07-24-2011, 07:19 PM	#13 (permalink)
wilez5150 Granite Guru Join Date: Jan 2007 Member # 86194 Location: apple valley ca, 35 miles from hammer town Posts: 579	i forgot to say my willys has a 425 hp 350, 700r4 d300 44's/5.38/detroits,37's s/o with 2 1/2 yj springs. 23" at the skid plate and runs the hammers on a regular basis. again that was 14 years with no cracks in the frame. broke everything else but not the frame. i think the 8 point cage had a lot to do with it

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