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Old 01-29-2012, 12:51 PM   #26 (permalink)
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After a long break finally found some time to continue my project!

The engine is in together with the reconditioned transmission. After a lot of measuring I've welded up the engine mounts.



The final result



Some pics of the the engine in place. Still a lot of work to do, building a exhaust, cooling, moving the steeringpump, electrics, fuelling.




Last edited by Bowy; 01-29-2012 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Looks like it belongs there!

Nice work. It has taken me a few tries to get motor mounts just right.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:43 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Some more pics!


Block is completely ready to run except to cooling system.


Specs

- Custom homemade headers (standard block huggers were fooling the front Salsbury differential)
- P38 PAS pump
- TBI injection
- very tight fit between the front prop and the auto oil sump (ca 6mm play) and custom lenght prop. Will be replaced by a heavy duty gwyn lewis one later on.


Fuel system is finished as is the rear electrical loom.



Very tight fit!

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Old 02-09-2012, 05:23 PM   #29 (permalink)
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This build is full of win. I love those fenders. Since I'm thinking of ditching my front ARB bumper, I might go with fenders like that. Super slick.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:29 PM   #30 (permalink)
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hello, just curious, you say you bought a 127 landy and u keep calling it your 130 project. i didn't see where you lengthened your chassis 3" to make up the diffference. nice project btw grats.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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It is a 127. But after '88 the same car is called a 130. The wheelbase is still 127. But just like a 90 = 92,7 inch.

For ease of explanation (not many people know what a 127 is) I use the term 130.

Made a new pic today. The front nose fitted. And the rear tub removed (again)

For reference, the tires are 36 inch and I'm 6,2..... so BIC is really quite BIG for a landrover!


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Old 02-15-2012, 04:04 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Fitted the custom homemade challenge dash, still a lot of holes to be drilled, but it fits!





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Old 02-15-2012, 09:26 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I know you've had the panels laser cut, so why not have the holes for all the gauges and switches cut while they were at it? It would all be done then and they will be absolutely perfectly alined.

That's what I'm going to do. I'm already busy CAD drawing my dash panels ..

I must have missed it, but what tcase are you using behind that turbo400?
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #34 (permalink)
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You're right about the laser cutting, so the front panels are now back at the lasercutter! Will have the first one for the gauges back on monday!

I'm using a LT230 T-case
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:41 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Small update (but a lot of work done!)

Cooling circuit placed and completely plumbed
PAS plumbed and reservoir fitted
Fuel system plumbed and finished
Fitted all the lighting and wired it to the dash area.





Now I have to start wiring the dash! :side

Hopefully next week the first attempt at starting the beast!
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:17 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Nice work!

Those pics are helpfull too! Same rad as I'm going to use by the looks of it. I will have to to my absolute best to fit my huge saab intercooler, that big rad with dual e-fans behind my lights in grille panel .... gonna be a challenge...

Keep up the good work
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I really like it.......but you are going to take that engine back out and tidy it up once you have finished mocking it all up, right?

Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:32 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Are those pusher fans going to do the job?
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:18 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Are those pusher fans going to do the job?
Why wouldn't they?
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:06 PM   #40 (permalink)
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with my RRC I have had problems when I put a bigger Disco-2 front shaft (DC) in. With the vehicle at rest it fittet. But on the road the axle made some movement (bushes allowing for movement, movement of the axle la "bump steer") and then the shaft fouled the r/h catalysator. I had been able to put the cat on diet (making it slimmer).
Having, in your case, just as little space (6mm) between the much more delicate gearbox makes me thing of that again.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:08 PM   #41 (permalink)
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P.S. engine mounts are without cushioning rubber ?
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:15 PM   #42 (permalink)
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P.S. engine mounts are without cushioning rubber ?
Yep, that's the way they were bolted in , in the donor car. Didn't have any problems there, so I thought I should be fine?
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:56 PM   #43 (permalink)
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That's OK for race cars. But solid engine mounts will transmit a lot of vibration and noise to the chassis. I have driven a few drag cars with this set-up on the road and it gets old pretty fast. Better to use some kind of rubber mount.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:02 AM   #44 (permalink)
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That's OK for race cars. But solid engine mounts will transmit a lot of vibration and noise to the chassis. I have driven a few drag cars with this set-up on the road and it gets old pretty fast. Better to use some kind of rubber mount.
I can't find a clear picture of the Left-Hand side motor mount, but the picture of the Right-Hand side clearly shows a 'rubber' motor mount. It's a much older style than the TBI engine that it is bolted too, but it is two steel shells or halves, usually with an interlocking tab in case the rubber fails, and they are vulcanized together. I have outlined the rubber mount below.

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Old 02-23-2012, 06:28 PM   #45 (permalink)
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"I see", said the blind man.

Yep, that's the stock rubber mount. I didn't see it the first time. Need to get my eyes tested. As long as the rubber is not torn or sheared it will be fine.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #46 (permalink)
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How about a front prop from a cat equipped RRC? They're a solid piece, and about half the diameter of the defender one to clear the right hand cat.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:45 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywagoneersdotcom View Post
I can't find a clear picture of the Left-Hand side motor mount, but the picture of the Right-Hand side clearly shows a 'rubber' motor mount. It's a much older style than the TBI engine that it is bolted too, but it is two steel shells or halves, usually with an interlocking tab in case the rubber fails, and they are vulcanized together. I have outlined the rubber mount below.

Attachment 654875
Thanx for the clearification! Didn't spot those myself as I'm not very familiar with chevy engines.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:46 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan View Post
How about a front prop from a cat equipped RRC? They're a solid piece, and about half the diameter of the defender one to clear the right hand cat.
The problem is actually not the shaf but more the size of the ujoints. But because this part of the prop is not moving without the transmission moving I think I'll be fine.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:34 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I'd suggest that you replace the timebomb of an expansion tank you have.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:48 AM   #50 (permalink)
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The problem is actually not the shaf but more the size of the ujoints. But because this part of the prop is not moving without the transmission moving I think I'll be fine.
Looking again I see what you mean, the perspective is lost to some degree as it's looking straight up or down.
However, as you've obviously out a fair bit of time and money into this already, wouldn't it be sensible to spend a few dollars more, drop the sump off the box and get it modified to clear the prop better?

It's amazing how quickly 1/4" of clearence can close up if one of the bearings in the UJ collapses, or the gearbox gets a jolt and bounces on its mounts.
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