D110 Build-up

[DiscoDino]

Happy Holidays to all...Well, it’s been pretty quiet from my end as I wrap up my last 6 months in NYC and aim to head back to the Middle East for work/family/4x4-ing…in the meantime, my brother and I bought a 1991 D110 that’s in pretty good condition and wanted to get some collaborative thinking as we build this puppy up. My brother is on location (Lebanon) and I’m in NYC, so updates may be intermittent.

Goal of the truck: daily driver & mid-core trail rig and winter wheeling/camping. I know we are asking a lot of this truck, but hey, let’s say that’s the challenge. The idea is to have this in very presentable format so that we can use this daily (work/play), and protected/built-up enough that we are not scared for going off-road. The D110 will join the stable with our 1984 RRC 2 door (ARBs, 32s, OME), & my truggy’s replacement (+44” tires, RWs, Chevy drivetrain, Atlas, more on this in the future though probably not in the LR section).

The truck: a 1991 D110 with the 3.5 V8 carb, LT77, LT230, and rear Salisbury drums. Body A-, Chassis A, interior C, no A/C.
The game-plan is to reuse as much of my Disco truggy as possible…I’ll highlight as we go through this what’s reused.

The build-plan:

Engine: 4.2 EFI with some goodies to get a healthy 200-225hp (from truggy), this one has the V-belts. I have a Saginaw pump on it now, but am thinking of going with a PSC one with a remote reservoir. Thoughts?

Transmission: Looking to get an LT85 from Ashcroft

Transfer case: Keep the D110 LT230, install the with 2wd conversion

Underdrive: Ashcroft (from truggy)

Front axle: Rovota axle, Maxidrive axles (from ’04!), ARB RD23, 4.88 high pinion, Longfield 27 splines, EBC brakes, Devon 4x4 diff cover, HD steering arms, Hydro-assist

Rear axle: Salisbury with Keith’s conversion to get it to D60 35 spline level, 4.88 R&P, ARB, & the disc conversion, ARB diff cover (all new)

Steering: from truggy, currently has Rockstomper hydro assist, but may need to go with the PSC pump/ram. Thoughts on how to install a high output pump, reservoir, cooler on the 4.2 in a Defender? Also, I think the OEM LR steering box is the limiting factor, right?

Suspension: OME springs (I have 764s for the front that I can reuse), need rear springs (probably OME 755s). Thought on shocks? This is not going to be a race truck, but I don’t want that bouncy feel…double shocks all round, the new OME sport shocks and KISS? Or some reservoir Fox/Kings? I do want to change the front turrets to tubular ones for easier cleaning and some under hood heat dissipation. Aiming to build a suspension for performance/reliability/simplicity, and use the extended flares to make some space for the tires.

Wheels: 15x10 converted to beadlock (from truggy)

Tires: Either IROK 36s or Rockers 37s.

A/C: need to install complete A/C unit. This is going to be interesting as I’m more used to pulling A/C systems OUT of the truck…so any help/thoughts on any/all parts would be appreciated. Don’t want to put $2,500 in a full A/C conversion…need the MOST help!

Protection: complete external cage with all bells/whistles. We’ll be purchasing this so probably going with Performance and Protection in the UK, rock sliders, front Devon 4x4 winch bumper/steering protection, fuel tank skid, Warn M8274-50 (from truggy), rear quarter bumper protectors, custom flat belly with 3/8” UHMP skids, & front fender/hood checker plate pieces (black)

Exterior: aiming to paint it sliver to match the 1984 RRC 2 door in the family (and the future buggy), and aiming to have a soft top conversion in the coming couple of years (with the lift up ½ doors).

Interior: refurbishing OEM seats with heated elements on front 2 seats, benches in the middle/back (9-seater). We don’t have a headliner, and need some side panels…so will work with some breakers in UK to find some parts

Misc.: NAS lighting for all stop/tail/turn/back-up lights, auxiliary LED lighting front/rear, air compressor, pioneer tools, recovery gear, etc…

Let me know if you have any (constructive) suggestions!

Nadim

[PTSchram]

Bah! Defenders aren't supposed to have roll up windows

[Kyle_T]

shipped to paradise tx?

[97discosd]

Subscribed

[Toy-Roverlander]

That is one clean looking 110.... congrats!

Originally Posted by DiscoDino

and aiming to have a soft top conversion in the coming couple of years (with the lift up ½ doors).

Are you doing a 4door softtop? Or will you change out the rear tub for a 2door one?

[DiscoDino]

Thanks guys...

We're aiming for a 4 door convertible SW type top...it isn't a necessity, but a nice to have...so we'll see what we come up with...

[Toy-Roverlander]

Nice!

I made a softtop 4door 109". It looks a bit crude but it works.. The rope that hooks under the tabs on the side of the body is tied down to the top hinge of the second row doors.... no room for that hook thing ..
The b-pillars could do with some reinforcing though...

Good luck with the project anyway.

[DiscoDino]

Yeah - that's the trick...we're big fellas...so an exo-cage is a must, but we want to tie it in and make it stronger (not for competition, but basic protection)...

So that's the tricky part for the soft top...hence we're keeping it as a cherry on top of the cake (in the future) and concentrating on the drivetrain, body, interior and overall upgrades...

[mongosd2]

Sweet...

[Najman]

I was wondering that garage construction look it is from back home then the plate confirmed it ,I am in the process off installing Volvo portals maybe this is an idea to change habit , do not forget some insulation so when you drive you do not loos your hearing .
I am subscribed

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by Najman

do not forget some insulation so when you drive you do not loos your hearing .

It's a 110, not a 109

The lack of road noise was the ONLY good thing about the 110 we have in the shop now-it came from Bahrain, apparently, they did a good job with the insulation.

[uninformed]

hey Dino,

IMO double shocks are just a bandaid for poor shock quality. Plus its harder to set up/fab and get the shocks working together PROPERLY due to room. I would look at Fox or Bilstein. I recently picked up some Billy 9100 in 2 inch. The remote res is HUGE, perfect for heat. Have a look at the D90 thread from the guy in portugal. Re the EXo have you looked at the Safety devices cages for ideas. Good luck and post pics please

[DiscoDino]

Thx guys...

We're pricing out the various "drop in" cages, safety devices included...I am hoping to have the whole thing as a bolt on as I m not physically working on it...or else we would have done something custom (and probably uglier!)

On shocks that's good advice...I think I will be going with either the Fox 2" or the Billys 7100, with reservoirs...not looking for articulation, so I guess the 10"ers would do? None have particular part numbers/rates they would recommend?

[uninformed]

the 7100 are very good but the 9100 should handle the heat better, better for more speed driving on and off....speak to randomthoughtsracing on here he is a billy tech rep a few guys here running 400/100 valving for billy's

[DiscoDino]

Happy new year everyone!

We've narrowed down the shocks to Fox remore reservoirs...so doing some final research to decide on size/calving...but seems that the 10" front/rear will be a good conservative size...aiming to go for stability instead of articulation...OME springs remain the choice...764/755...

Another decision that seems taken is the SD cage...as we are looking for a 100% bolt on / coated option (overall theme of the truck to keep it presentable)...

waiting on some other details and should start posting up some more fruitful updates...

[Dougal]

Projects like this get me depressed about my own lack of progress. But that's a super clean 110, good find.

Anyway. Why LT85? I thought the later R380's were stronger than the old LT85? Is the 2wd/partime 4wd conversion for strength?

[DiscoDino]

Because we wanted as much "get up and go", we decided todo the 2wd conversion...if it breaks for some reason, I have the cross shaft from Jac Mac tht I have been running since 2004 that I can swap in...

Same reason for going manual...whichever one is strongest frankly...but I had ad that the lt85 is the strongest one with the transfer case separate (the lt95 being the stronger overall)...we are working with Dave at Ashcroft, so we will see what the options are...basically using to go for the best 4.2/manual/LT230/underdrive package out there

Oh, progress won't be too fast...although we are aiming to wrap this one up by summer (end of at the latest) so we can start concentrating on the buggy (whole new ball game)

[Dougal]

How about testing the Force 9 stuff while you're at it?

[DiscoDino]

Originally Posted by Dougal

How about testing the Force 9 stuff while you're at it?

For the D110? I think the rear Salisbury converted to D60/35sp and the front Rovota high pinion with Longs is a good tried and tested set-up...

The buggy will only have static Rover parts...diffs will be 2.5Ts

[PTSchram]

Nadim-do you really NEED a cage on a truck you're not going to be bashing about?

[DiscoDino]

Originally Posted by PTSchram

Nadim-do you really NEED a cage on a truck you're not going to be bashing about?

With my brother's 3 kids and my baby on the way...as passengers for camping/day-trips we really don't want to take the chance without one...understand where you are coming from, but prefer to be safe than sorry on that front.

The truck may also be use for mild offroading, so again prefer to be safer

[uninformed]

you dont need one untill you need one....and when you do in a defender you REALLY NEED ONE!

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by uninformed

you dont need one untill you need one....and when you do in a defender you REALLY NEED ONE!

the one we're in the process of building had the rollcage held to the body with lag screws.

Yeah, I get to break out the bender again.

[DiscoDino]

Originally Posted by PTSchram

the one we're in the process of building had the rollcage held to the body with lag screws.

Yeah, I get to break out the bender again.

Yeah, some are just for show...

I'm looking at either of these 3 options:

1. P&P cage with 6 tie-ins to the chassis - least expensive
2. SD cage with 8 tie-ins - freaking expensive
3. SD with 10 tie-ins - nuts expensive

Probably going with #1 as it seems sufficient with our needs, and adding a couple of diagonals/X-braces will help...trying to see if I can get it to 8 point tie-in...

[telius86]

on suspension I recommend you the devon 4x4 kit with remote reservoir king shocks!