2nd starter not working

[cdansan]

Got a 2nd rebuilt starter from Advance auto installed tonight. I damaged the first one. I have not yet removed the new starter from the truck to bench test it.
Started twice on the starter, turned over hard and made odd noises. Now no starter function.

Anyhing that I could be doing wrong here? Or just cheap starters?
Buy a better quality starter?

PO had the ground strap mounted between the starter and engine block, Haynes and Rave both show the ground strap under the blot head so I put it under the bolt head.

Any advice would be appreciated, Dan

[NDWOODS]

I don't think there is anything you can really do wrong. I have an '89 RRC and had an issue i swore was the starter. changed the started a couple of times, ran new battery cables, grounds, etc. finally found that there is a relay between the ignition switch and the started solenoid that was going bad. I (which I know is wrong) ran a wire directly from the ignition switch to the started solenoid.

[silver streak]

Connect the ground strap from the upper starter mounting bolt to the frame. That's your problem. That is the main ground.

[DasLandRoverMan]

So long as the earth strap has a decent (clean & tight) connection onto the block it doesn't really matter which bolt secures it.

Check the other end and make sure that's got a good connection also, my favourite trick is to put the earth lead from the battery directly onto the engine, can't remember if that's how they're connected up in stock form?

You'll not hurt the ignition switch using it to trip the starter directly as the current draw is minimal. My old V8 RRC and current Tdi Disco both had the relay taken out as it was causing problems and are yet to burn out ignition switches.

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

So long as the earth strap has a decent (clean & tight) connection onto the block it doesn't really matter which bolt secures it.

Check the other end and make sure that's got a good connection also, my favourite trick is to put the earth lead from the battery directly onto the engine, can't remember if that's how they're connected up in stock form?

IIRC, this is a '95 NAS DI. The battery ground goes to the inner fender well and onward to the frame horn. There is a big-ass braid from the frame near the bulkhead to the starter mounting bolt (I leave the choice of which one to you) and there is another big ass braid on the left side that goes from the block to the coil bracket. While there may be a few, in this instance, the big one near the starter certainly carries the biggest load and would be most critical for starting.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

You'll not hurt the ignition switch using it to trip the starter directly as the current draw is minimal. My old V8 RRC and current Tdi Disco both had the relay taken out as it was causing problems and are yet to burn out ignition switches.

After watching so many folks fret over current draw when building keyless ignition circuits, I was amazed to find how small the wires to the switch were for some of the functions. It doesn't make much sense for the power feed to be such a relatively large wire when the circuits they feed don't seem to have a wire size to justify the others being so huge.

My '95 is started with a piece of 18 gauge wire from the solenoid to the battery :embarrassed flipoff: Hey, it's the yard mule/forklift now, it never did have to be pretty.

[Antichrist]

FWIW I replace the starter ground with one that runs from the mounting bolt to the same bolt where the battery ground attaches to the chassis.

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by Antichrist

FWIW I replace the starter ground with one that runs from the mounting bolt to the same bolt where the battery ground attaches to the chassis.

I think the frame rail can handle more current

If we keep going AFIRover style, the weakest link will be the battery post, or the connection to the plates