95 Classic Build

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

Hey guys. Im new here and new to Land Rovers. Finally got my hands on a RRC after selling my pre-runner truck. Its a 95 in decent shape. I was hoping to get a 95 because of the updates. I got a pretty good deal on the truck. I lucked out and found a classic that had a good base to start with. Rust is pretty minimal. Motor and tranny have had a recent over haul.

This is what came with the RRC.

OME Shocks
3" Springs
Equipe Trailing Arms
Radius Arms (not sure brand)
Steering Stabilizer OME
HD Upgraded Steering/panhard (not sure brand)
ARB Bumper
X9 Winch Synthetic Line
Stainless Brake Lines
Borla Exhaust
New 285/75/16 (33"s) Mud Rovers
LT230
Disco Conversion Drive Shafts



I have big pans for this rig. I need to fix a few things first. Im going to build some stainless bradded oil/tranny cooler lines as one of them is weeping and is making a mess. Not really interested in catching on fire ether. I also think my PS lines may be leaking. I have some broken interior plastic pieces, drivers rear view mirror that the lens is cracked, rear view mirror has a oil'y thing going inside the glass, drivers passenger window is off the track, and rear window shocks are blown out. Once i fix all that stuff its on to the build. Im not one for buying parts unless i have too. Not to be cheap i just like making my own parts.

Once i fix the above (all are driving me crazy) its on to the fun part. In the immediate future i plan on building tube front and rear bumpers. Tube fenders and rock rails. Id like to lift it about 2" more and 35"s. I like add a roof rack, but it wont fit in my garage if i lift it more and 35"s. So ill probably make a Jeep style swinging tire carrier. I can't wait to get started!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Looks pretty sexy as is.

There are times I really miss my old Rangie, this is one.

[RoverAsh]

Like we talked about before, another 2" is going to open up a pretty big can of worms. I'll list out the majority of the stuff you're going to need so you have a tangible list to reference. Aside from the obvious stuff (springs, shocks, brake lines, etc.), you need to account for:

-Driveshafts are definitely going to be needed. At 3" you're pretty much at the limit of what those stock shafts can do. Tom Woods is great, but there are a handful of guys who can take care of this.

-Swivel balls are going to need to be re-drilled to correct the caster. The higher you go, the worse the truck will steer without correction.

-To fit those 35's you're absolutely going to need to re-gear. She's right on the threshold of being pleasant to drive as is, and bigger tires will push you over without a re-gear. The stock R&P isn't the strongest, either.

-If you plan on wheeling it, axle shafts are a must. Those stockers aren't good for much. There are a handful of vendors offering these; Rovertracks, Great Basin Rovers, Ashcroft and Terrafirma. Keith at RT is a cool guy.

I'm sure someone will chime in on the stuff I've forgotten, but that covers the majority of it. Because you're DD'ing it, I'd keep it on 33's, put lockers in and just polish up the interior and exterior.

[Jake1996D1]

Originally Posted by RoverAsh

The stock R&P isn't the strongest, either.
.

R and P strength is least of the worries on a stock open diff.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Castor correcting bushes or radius arms are available, save fucking about drilling swivels.

[Dougal]

Are these classics getting rare in the US yet? Over here the price is climbing for good tidy ones and even the not-so-tidy but still road-legal. Bit of a shame to chop up a nice one.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Castor correcting bushes or radius arms are available, save fucking about drilling swivels.

If you redrill the swivels then the diff nose stays pointing at the drive-shaft and you have one less potential source of vibration. You can also drill to get the caster you want, rather than the one option of offset bushings.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned so far. What do you actually plan to use it for?

[uninformed]

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Castor correcting bushes or radius arms are available, save fucking about drilling swivels.

no, save fucking with band aid solutions that create more problems...slot and rotate swivels

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

Hey Guys,

Thanks Ash for the info, sounds like pretty much what we talked about before. Sense i bought the truck iv gone search crazy. Im defiantly looking to go beyond the standard 3" lift and tires that most people run. Ash you know i cant have anything near stock form. Of course all of the will happen over time and ill be collecting parts to do it right.

Doygal,
When i was looking for a RRC i there were quite a few for sale. I would say they most were in stock from and not running or in really bad shape. Seems the purists like the safari look and function. Don't get me wrong they look and preform great. That's just not my style. I like to be a tad different. It will be used as a DD/trail truck. Id like to go camping with it too. Id like to be able to "use" it for whatever strikes the mood. Dont let the black paint fool you. The body is pretty ruff...

I wish i had some time coming up. Im itching to get cutting a welding...

[Najman]

Originally Posted by SHAWNBASSETT26

Hey Guys,

Thanks Ash for the info, sounds like pretty much what we talked about before. Sense i bought the truck iv gone search crazy. Im defiantly looking to go beyond the standard 3" lift and tires that most people run. Ash you know i cant have anything near stock form. Of course all of the will happen over time and ill be collecting parts to do it right.

Doygal,
When i was looking for a RRC i there were quite a few for sale. I would say they most were in stock from and not running or in really bad shape. Seems the purists like the safari look and function. Don't get me wrong they look and preform great. That's just not my style. I like to be a tad different. It will be used as a DD/trail truck. Id like to go camping with it too. Id like to be able to "use" it for whatever strikes the mood. Dont let the black paint fool you. The body is pretty ruff...

I wish i had some time coming up. Im itching to get cutting a welding...

Well why dont you go with volvo portal ,i am doing the conversion and going 37

[Bentcrank]

I put some mogs under a RR Classic a few years back...save your pennys if you go the portal route.

[cptyarderho]

I have been that route, the performance increase from "3 to "5 is pretty small for the dollars and effort.

[Kyle_T]

meh, no need for portals. fzj80 axles and 35-37"s will get it done for MUCH less and you can actually attain parts (at any Toyota dealership).

3" lift on 35's and some trimming of body work makes a VERY capable rig.

[husqy03]

Nice range!!

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

I have a solid direction im going now. I finally have some free time coming up and ill be getting started on this build. The RRC will no longer be a DD

[McDisco]

I wouldnt lift the suspension another 2", rather I would do a 2" body lift. My rangie used to have a 5 inch lift when I bought it and it was very scary to drive and very unstable on cross slopes. Dropped in 2 inch and with the 2 inch body lift to clear the 35s it now handles a lot better. I also drilled the swivels and it really improved the handling at speed...had to rebuild the hubs anyway so might as well have done it.

Cant wait to see the build progress.

[Mr Bridger]

It looks pretty straight right now. I would just sell it. Buy a used Range Rover hood, cause five years down the road that is all that is going to left once you have finished anyway.

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

A lot of welding, cutting, bending, and grinding going on this weekend. Pics soon...

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

As i mentioned over the weekend i got to get some solid time in on the RRC. My plan was to make the tube fenders first. I wanted to make the fenders "bolt on" and i couldn't find a way to tie them solid. So i decided to make the rock sliders first and tie them in to the sliders.

So heres is what i came up with on the rock sliders. They bolt in and are super solid. Im a big advocate for a clean install. I made them bolt on instead of weld in because i want to powder coat them and have them easily removable.

I used 2"X3" rectangle tube for the main structure. 1.5" square for the legs. 2.5"X2.5" 3/16" angle for the mounts and 1 5/8" 120 DOM for the tube. I used 1/2" grade 8 hardware. Id say all in all the a pretty strong set up.

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

After i got the rock sliders finished i started on the front fenders. I got about half way and the ol ADD kicked in. I was thinking about the rear of the truck and what i wanted to do. Next thing i know every single thing except the rear side windows was left on the back half of the cab....

I have had quite a few people on Pirate and other forums say im crazy for pulling apart my RRC. "Its too clean". Its really not.

Busted up rears removed. When i bought the truck the owner had a spare set of rear fenders.



I though the tail light portion of the rear fender was welded to the truck and there not. Im going to have to get a new right side.




While i was pulling everything out i found that there was a lot of rust on the rear part of the floor.





I cut it all out. Ill box it in with some 2x2 angle. I also found a random area near the right wheel well that needed to be cut out.


Im going to remove the rear portion (about 8") off the rear of the frame and weld on some straight/usable area to attach a bumper to. Someone did a serious hack job here... Check out these sweet "welds".



I should have the front tube fenders done this weekend. More soon...

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

I got a little further on my front fenders. Im going to add a few mounts. But this is the basic mock up. Ill plate it (obviously add cut outs for the lights) and the open section behind the light area. Im also going to cut down the area where the battery box is as its dead space and ill have the batteries in the back. Ill be using part of the original fender to cover the open area near the door. Ill have them finished up over the weekend.

[Mr Bridger]

I like what you have come with.

[mdlimy55]

Fender looks awesome so far! cant wait to see the final result.

[def9090]

front fenders look schmick, nice work!

[SHAWNBASSETT26]

Thanks guys.

Well a lot of work went into the truck today. To bad it wasn't anything fun. I got rid of all the rusted out spots. Welded in a square plate where some rust was and welded in some 1/8" 2"X2" angle to cap off the rear of the floor. Its super strong and wont rot out again.



While i was at it i torched an scraped off all of the sound deadening. I also cut and tabs and studs out of the rear. I plan on building some pretty trick storage areas on either of the back.

Behind the drivers side passenger wheel well it was pretty haggard. It was pushed up about 1-2" and creased pretty bad. A lot of hammering later i got it pretty close to smoothed out.



I have to add a metal strip on the new area for wether stripping, but other than that she's all fixed up. Ill be spraying in some bed liner soon sound deaden and keep it rust free. Not to mention clean up will be easy.

[77chev]

Subscribed! I'm lovin the front fenders. It's putting some inspiration in my head