Can't get into low range

[brianfriend]

Hey guys,

I can;t get the truck into low range. Last week it worked fine and the diff lock still works but no low. It won't even go into neutral. Visual inspection of the linkage shows no problem and we even tried to "help" get the thing into low with a crow bar but no go. Any ideas before I drop the t-case?

btw...97 auto disco.

thanks,
brian

[JSBriggs]

Sounds like solinoid problems. Even if its not, removing the solinoid is a good idea (IMO).

-Jeff

[brianfriend]

Where is the solinoid?

[JSBriggs]

It is cylindrical with 2 wires comming out of it and is bolted on the flat (level) spot behind the high low lever.

-Jeff

[Richard Dekkard]

forgive me for being a dope...

but why would the solenoid prevent him from getting the diff lock physically moved into low? The solenoid is there strictly to relay the position of the linkage isnt it?

I havent looked at any of this on my truck so I dont really know, but Im just asking based off how I understood it to work...

[scrover]

The solenoid prevents you from shifting the t-case when the transmission is in drive and maybe above a certain speed - not sure. I had mine removed and also the transmission solenoid that prevents shifting out of park unless you step on the brake - both can be disabling if you're miles from anywhere and can't shift - or even at the grocery store for that matter

[Richard Dekkard]

ahh, gotcha...

thanks..

[PTSchram]

I was going to suggest that he try it repeatedly while moving the shift lever forward and back from park to neutral in case there was anything hanging up with the solenoid actuator.

Might work...

[brianfriend]

is the solinoid under the truck or under the console? And if it is the reason for the malfunction if it is removed completly then I should be able to shift again?

[Serious One]

This is how the solenoid works.

If the solenoid is recieving *no* electric signal, it is locked in a position that prevents the high-low lever from moving back and forth. Side to side movement is possible.

If the solenoid *is* recieving an electric signal the locking mechanism is withdrawn allowing the high-low lever to move front to back (engaging between high-neutral-low).

The electric signal is provided by the brake switch *and* the transmission (in the case of the ZF auto). On the manual transmission it is only provided by the brake switch. If the brake is depressed the signal is sent to the solenoid, allowing you to choose between high-neutral-low (you must be in neutral also with the ZF). If there's no signal getting to the solenoid it is locked in whichever range it was in before it quit recieving a signal.

This is basically a safety measure provided to keep newbies from shifting from high to low above a certain speed.

This is my understanding of how the solenoid works and how the system was designed. If I've left anything out, or if anything is wrong, point it out.

To avoid any solenoid problems in the future people generally remove it altogether. You *must* remove it, as just removing the power/signal to it leaves it in it's locked position as mentioned above.

Removing it is not a big deal. Look at Briggs' post for directions.

[J bradley]

Try sticking a can of PB Blaster ( wd40) up into the linkgage area from the front and back sides of the LT and spray it good and let it sit for a day then have somebody work it from inside the cab while you jam your hand up in there and see if their motion is getting back to you at all and if you have real girly arms you can maybe tug in it from there too.. . You have to undo the linkage to really drop it anyway, and if you do drop it watch the in cab shifter as it will go wayyyy down and in the shifter area so take off the handle so it doenst get buggered up or bent. its a heavy sum b. if it happened after the woods you may have a tree stuck up in there binding the action

[PTSchram]

I would go a long way to not have to drop the transfer case.

This is the only job on these trucks I consider to be difficult.

[Serious One]

Originally posted by PTSchram
This is the only job on these trucks I consider to be difficult.

Cool! I've done it...twice! Does that make me cool(squared)???

I think I'd agree with Paul though, the only other job that I rank up there with dropping/replacing the t-case is doing the heater core.

Now *THAT* is a bee-atch.

[DChapman]

How about the Netural safty switch

[brianfriend]

I think I will start with the solinoid. I didn't know there was a neutral safety switch too.

[brianfriend]

can anyone confirm that I can get to the solinoid by removing the console? Or do I have to get at it from underneith?

[Serious One]

You could *potentially* get to it by removing ALL of the center console, then cutting out with a jig-saw a panel that you could re-rivit in when you were done.

IMO, you should probably drop the cross member, drop the exhaust, remove the t-case mounting bolts from the frame (not the t-case), and just lower the whole she-bang down slowly. You might not have to undo the drivelines, but once you've undone all the other bolts, what's 8 more right? Those ones on top aren't *that* hard to get to!

Ugh.

BE VERY CAREFUL when you lower the t-case/tranny/engine combo. You have heater hoses that run directly behind the engine to the heater core and they can VERY EASILY be damaged by getting pinched or cut between the engine/firewall. There is a pretty good pad on the engine side of the firewall, which will offer some protection. Just watch it when you are lowering the whole thing down.

The neutral-lockout-switch solenoid is part of the actual linkage for the BW t-case (when that is installed). The t-case solenoid is located on the top of the t-case, held in place by four bolts and it drops straight down from the top. The t-case is located directly underneath the drivers/passengers seats so you would need to drop the t-case pretty low to be able to access it from above, or even wiggle in from either side.

If you have a trained monkey handy, this is where it pays off. Unfortunately most of us don't.

[scrover]

jeezuz! and the heater core is a bigger biatch? so glad I permanently bypassed mine - even more glad I had a trained monkey to do my t-case swap and solenoid removal

Good luck Brian

SC

[PTSchram]

Brian:
Don't sweat it, Mike described the procedure for a Rangie, not the Disco, also the BW transfer case, not the LT-230. It is difficult to capture the hoses on a Disco, but you will need to spread the frame rails to get the crossmember out, using a high-lift to do this is a major pita!

In order to drop the y-pipe, you will need to drop the driveshafts for more clearance (let's make it as easy as we can). You will also need to disconnect the transfer case shifter if you intend to lower the assembly much at all.

I'm not certain where the solenoid is as I was not concerned with such when I pulled a tranny out of a '94 disco a few months back.

Peace,
Paul

[Serious One]

I guess there are subtle differences between doing the job on a RRC vs. Disco1.

Either way you cut it, scrover is right...it is a biatch.

Take your time, remember how you did everything and realize it's not going to get done in an hour. Give yourself the better part of a day, and plan on pizza and about 3 liters of Coke (or your beverage of choice).

While you're down there you might as well.....

Seriously though, if you are in the mood you could replace your speed sensor before it decides to go south on you (I have heard it can cause problems).

What else could he take care of? Drivelines rebuilt? Replace exhaust? Lower gearset in LT-230? Part-time??? Hehe. Watch it, it's addicting.

[brianfriend]

Dammmmm...... I think that will take me more than the better part of a day. You might be right....exhaust, re-gearing tcase. If I am going to go through all the trouble to get to that damb thing maybe I need to go all the way. This is kinda sucky.

[brianfriend]

Thanks for all your help guys. I fixed the problem today and it was the solinoid. I ground off the plunger thing and I am back on the road.

[Jim_H.]

Brian, were you able to access the solenoid by removing the console or did you have to get to it from underneath?

My 94 DI is doing the same thing, for a while, if I slapped the transmission gear selector around a little I could shift the t-case into low range but now that doesn't even work anymore.

Also, hate to sound like a doof but how do you get the t-case shifter boot off? I've been messing with it but it seems like I'm going to break the plastic base. I can get the transmission selector case apart but I'm having trouble with the t-case.

Thanks,
Jim

[brianfriend]

JIm,

I got to the solinoid through the top. I had to remove all the console "stuff" and then drill out the rivetts that that hold the plate to the transmission tunnel. I was able to reach the solinoid. It is secured with 4 bolts and is on the pass side of the t-case. You will notice two wires going going to it. Unbolt that cover and you will probably have to pry it off with a screwdriver. I had to slide a small screw driver in where the wires are to pry the cover up. It was a fairly easy job, all things considered and it took me about 3 hours.

the t-case boot is secured with 2 plastic clips at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. I broke one when trying to get it off becasue I didn't know where they were but I think if you slide a flat tip in the 6:00 position you will feel the clip and be able to push it forward enough to unsecure the boot. Good luck.

[NoCalwheelin]

Anyone have a picture of where it is located on transfer case? I have the middle console out and am trying to find out where it is?

Also where is the best place to get to the wiring to test it?

Thanks