DII on 35"s

[Greg Davis]

Well, here are a couple of shots of my SSR's mounted.





These are day and night on the road compared to the bias-ply TSL's. I've trimmed the fenders, but still need to trim the rear doors. The tires don't rub, but the rear tires look too far forward in the openings, so I'll trim them to make everything look more centered.

Then I'll install my elongated wheel-arch protectors to give it the factory look again.

[Bertha the Cruiser]

Looks GREAT Greg!!!!

IIRC you completely removed the front crossmember?

[lwg]

Looks pretty sweet. They really don't rub? Are you getting much wheel travel?

[Greg Davis]

So far, so good. Up front, the shocks limit the up travel. They bottom about 1/4" before the tires make contact. With the fender liners out, there are two steps inside the front of each wheelwell. On the pass side it's where the battery sits. On the driver side it's where the airbox is. That's where the tires would rub. I picked up my new bumpstops for the front today. That will save my shocks. I still have decent travel, but more droop than stuffing.

The rears appear to be OK. Because of the angle of my rear shocks, they'll never bottom out. If the tires do end up making contact, I can lower those stops a little as well.

Almost forgot. Yes, the front x-member has been off for almost two years now. One of these days I'll get around to doing something with it.

[NCxj]

Very nice...what size are those SSR's (width wise)?

[Greg Davis]

35x10.50x16. They actually measure out to 35.3", if it matters.

[NCxj]

Originally posted by Greg Davis
35x10.50x16. They actually measure out to 35.3", if it matters.

Sweet.. I was just wondering if they are as skinny as they claim. Looks very good tho.

[Richard Dekkard]

looks great Greg!

now fix that saggy ass!!!!!

RTE on there?

Mine come off today...

[little_joe]

That looks amazing Greg. I am surprised they don't rub much in the rear!

What gears and axle setup are you running for those?

[Greg Davis]

It actually sits pretty level. It's the angle of the camera that makes it look otherwise.

Stock gears & axles , but that will change this Fall.

[Bluewater]

Greg, how did you go about trimming the fender? Like what tools are needed?

Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark and a group of professionals built the Titanic

[Greg Davis]

I drew my trim line, then used an electric hand grinder with a thin metal cutting wheel. Then, I smoothed the edges with a flat file. Just don't stay in one area too long, or it will get hot and the paint will bubble.

[Bluewater]

Thanx Greg i'll give that a try, i'm also thinking of getting some ECR fender flares in the near future.

[BDickens]

What is up with the RTE springs? My rear is sagging too.

[darkstar]

Nice work on the trim job, Greg. Looks like those bad boys will stuff all they way in the wheel whells, too..or do they rub the doors?

[Bluewater]

i'm going to try some 1" spacers for the sagging problem i'll tell you how that turns out.

[Bluewater]

Also Greg what kind of slidders do you have RTE? Did you have to trim them at all to fit after you trimmed the fenders?

[Greg Davis]

No rubbing on the rear door. It's VERY close, but does clear. I'll trim them anyway to make the wheeels look centered.

I have the RTE sliders. I trimmed about 2"-2.5" from each end.

[Bluewater]

Great Job Greg, How did you trim that? same tool? thanx

[Tuffjarhed]

Hey Paul




























35's

[Greg Davis]

Sawzall.

[darkstar]

That's what I thought about mine too right after I installed the 35s. I flexed the suspension as much as I could in a contrived situation, and the tires came within about 1/4" of the rear door. After the springs loosened up and I was able to get full up travel from the shocks, it became obvious that the tires would hit the door offroad. I wound up taking about 2" off the bottom of the doors. Your situation may not be the same because your tires are narrower, but I think your plan is good. You can cut the doors, roll and reseal the skins, and it will look good if you are careful.

[Bluewater]

Alex, what size springs do you have? I was wondering about putting some 4" RTE or maybe some Green Monsters on my truck, So if i already have the radius arms and rear a arm extensions for my 3" lift would they still fit if i upgraded to 4" or would i have to buy all new ones?

[Bluewater]

oh and also what about my shocks? Rancho 9000 would they still work?

[darkstar]

Blue, I have 5" RT springs in the back, 3" RT springs and 1" spacers in the front, plus a 2" body lift.

IMO if you want to run 35" tires on a disco with a working suspension, that is more or less the minimum amount of lift that you will need. My tires stuff all the way into the wheelwheels (within 1/2" of the top of the inner wheelwheel). Any less lift and I would have to limit my uptravel, which would decrease stability. I say this not because this is the setup I have now, but because this is the setup I came up with after a few years of playing around with the suspension on my truck.

Yeah, you can keep your existing links, you just won't get as much effect out of them (caster correction in the front, pinion angle adjustment in the rear). Also, IMO moving the rear axle back is not only unnecessary, but not desirable in this application. The real solution to body interference in the back is to trim the doors. The last place my tires have any contact with the body is the risers of my rear bumper (same area as the back of the rear inner fenders). I plan on modifying the bumper risers to alleviate that, but I can't move them back too much because the fuel filler hose is in the way. If my rear axle was relocated backwards this would be much more of a problem.

As for your shocks, I don't know. There are many different rancho 9000s. FWIW I run SB 12" travel bilstein 7100s and they are the perfect lenghth for my application. YMMV.