Trading for a 96' Rover

[JeepinCJ7]

Well, after trying to sell my Jeep for the last few months and never getting what I really wanted for it, I have decided to trade it. A guy in Texas is offering me a 96' Range Rover SE with the 4.0. Well, I am a Jeep/Early Bronco guy, and know NOTHING about Rovers other than the 4.0 is a BMW engine. Well, this rig has 120K on it and the EAS suspension. It is going to remain a stock rig with no mods planned, but will be required to tow around 3500lbs from time to time.

Obviously, if I agree to do this I will be doing it sight unseen(as will he with my Jeep), and just want to know what I am getting myself into. Pics show it to be a well taken care of vehicle. The interior and carpeting appear to be in great shape. 120K scares me a little, but he claims that there are no leaks and that its in great operating condition. He will be driving it to SoCal from Texas to pick up mine if we agree to do it, so obviously, if it makes it then it speaks well of the current condition that it is in. Anyway, what are the typical problems that these vehicles have and what should I watch out for or ask him about. Is the Electronic suspension system a PITA???

Any help would be appreciated.

[kellymoe]

Dont know much about newer RR but I have heard the first thing to fail is the susspension. Get rid of it and put in coils.

[Bush65]

BMW owned Landrover for a few years, before selling to Ford, but AFAIK BMW engines didn't appear as early as 96. 4.0 litre would be develoment of the old (50's design) 3.5 litre.

[wilsby]

Don't worry to much about the air suspension. It's wonderful for towing, lock it in the lower highway setting, hook up you trailer and enjoy the low COG and autolevelling.

Earlier EAS systems have been reported to go down on the bumpstops when they detect faults. Systems from '96 and on are smarter than that and will freeze in an inflated position if they detect problems.

[darkstar]

Get the VIN from the seller and go to a LR dealer and have them pull the service history. If it is long (20 pages plus), including a head gasket replacement/valve job then you are probably getting a vehicle with all the major early failures out of the way. If there is not much on there, then you never know...

[JeepinCJ7]

Originally posted by Bush65
BMW owned Landrover for a few years, before selling to Ford, but AFAIK BMW engines didn't appear as early as 96. 4.0 litre would be develoment of the old (50's design) 3.5 litre.

You sure??? BMW introduced their 4.0 in 95' when the 740I and IL were introduced leading me to believe that this would be the same engine.

Scotty

[wilsby]

4.0 and 4.6 are developments of the same old pushrod Buick. Same block, different stroke. Nothing BMW to them.

[JeepinCJ7]

Originally posted by wilsby
4.0 and 4.6 are developments of the same old pushrod Buick. Same block, different stroke. Nothing BMW to them.

Okay, thanks for the info!

Do you have any issues with your EAS suspension on your HSE? How are the trannies in these years? What about the Tcases?

[wilsby]

I've only had it since October. I like the EAS, but it can hang. You can continue to drive, or pull over and just pull and replace a fuse.

I have a new fuse box on order, which is supposedly the source of various diffuse electrical problems, of which I have a few.

The ZF works fine. Take the time to change oil and oil screen. My TC works, not sure what more is to say about it until it has seen some serious offroad flogging.

[10spline]

The T-case is a borg-warner chain driven unit, pretty solid..... they are just too modern and electronically controlled.
Shifting from High-to-Low and Low-to-High is done by a motor that when it goes bad leaves you in either low or high.

Like anything you can find flaws with it, and potential for breakdown. but You need to think about why you would be getting it?
If you're thinking it will replace your CJ7 vehicle-for-vehicle, you're probably looking at the wrong rig. But if you're looking for a comfortable truck to drive on trips, great off road and great on the road then you're set.


When you go to look at the truck:
1. Take it in and out of low range, should beep at you 2-3 times max. before changing range.
2. Ensure the windows and sunroofs work- window and S/R ecu's are EXPENSIVE
3. Check out the footwell on the passenger side for coolant (heater cores and the heater core o-rings can fall apart)
4. feel the air coming out of all vents; change the temperature and feel for different temps. Blend door motors are a bear to get to.... unless you cut the duct and cover it with duct tape. Both of these will trigger a "BOOK-EXPLANATION MARK" message on the HVAC display
5. bring a maglight and check the radiator for leaks, good way to look is through the blades of the fan.
6. Check around the heads and below the intake plenum for oil and coolant leaks.
7. The front cover, oil pan, and rear crucifix (cross seals) seals are known to seep.
8. The steering box (on the left frame rail) has high pressure hoses that pour ATF (yes, ATF) all over the front axle and left side of the frame... think corrosion protection.
9. Air suspension.... wow
raise the vehicle to the off road height, turn the car off, and leave one of the doors ajar (if you close the door the vehicle will auto level and if you have a leak, the car will keep auto leveling, and it won't be clear which bag is leaking) if the left rear sags... you know.....
a noisy EAS valve block under the hood driver's side, is usually fixed by flipping the bushing upside down.
10. Plus the other normal stuff when you look at a truck. Make sure the tires are worn evenly, service records are good, noises, vibrations, warning lights, smells, cats that are rattling, leaky diffs.

happy hunting

[wilsby]

If it has been running anywhere close to salt and water, check the lower edges of the lower tailgate and doors for corrosion. The aluminum skins are folded over steel door frames.

[JeepinCJ7]

Originally posted by 10spline
The T-case is a borg-warner chain driven unit, pretty solid..... they are just too modern and electronically controlled.
Shifting from High-to-Low and Low-to-High is done by a motor that when it goes bad leaves you in either low or high.

Like anything you can find flaws with it, and potential for breakdown. but You need to think about why you would be getting it?
If you're thinking it will replace your CJ7 vehicle-for-vehicle, you're probably looking at the wrong rig. But if you're looking for a comfortable truck to drive on trips, great off road and great on the road then you're set.


When you go to look at the truck:
1. Take it in and out of low range, should beep at you 2-3 times max. before changing range.
2. Ensure the windows and sunroofs work- window and S/R ecu's are EXPENSIVE
3. Check out the footwell on the passenger side for coolant (heater cores and the heater core o-rings can fall apart)
4. feel the air coming out of all vents; change the temperature and feel for different temps. Blend door motors are a bear to get to.... unless you cut the duct and cover it with duct tape. Both of these will trigger a "BOOK-EXPLANATION MARK" message on the HVAC display
5. bring a maglight and check the radiator for leaks, good way to look is through the blades of the fan.
6. Check around the heads and below the intake plenum for oil and coolant leaks.
7. The front cover, oil pan, and rear crucifix (cross seals) seals are known to seep.
8. The steering box (on the left frame rail) has high pressure hoses that pour ATF (yes, ATF) all over the front axle and left side of the frame... think corrosion protection.
9. Air suspension.... wow
raise the vehicle to the off road height, turn the car off, and leave one of the doors ajar (if you close the door the vehicle will auto level and if you have a leak, the car will keep auto leveling, and it won't be clear which bag is leaking) if the left rear sags... you know.....
a noisy EAS valve block under the hood driver's side, is usually fixed by flipping the bushing upside down.
10. Plus the other normal stuff when you look at a truck. Make sure the tires are worn evenly, service records are good, noises, vibrations, warning lights, smells, cats that are rattling, leaky diffs.

happy hunting

That is the info I was looking for.

Oh, and there is no way in hell that this vehicle could go where my CJ7 went. My CJ was purpose built for the Hammers. This Rover will be a grocery getter, but I do hit the desert and snow and will need the 4wd since I'll be towing a tent trailer through sand and such. I also have a 72' Bronco that will be my primary wheeler. I just want a good reliabe mode of transportation. I knew my CJ inside and out, and am a pretty good backyard mechanic, but considering that just about everything on a Rover is computer controlled I just want to make sure I'm getting a solid vehicle. Thanks for the info.

[SeaRover]

This Rover will be a grocery getter

[JeepinCJ7]

Originally posted by SeaRover

Oh, please !

Its going to be the wife's daily driver. I have another rig that I beat up regularly. And, if I had my choice I would be getting a D90, not a RR.

Scotty

[SeaRover]

fuck man, that's even worse . . . i'm soooooo tired of seeing people lurk over here about their "wife's" car . . .

puhleaase -beat the piss out of that thing and you can come back

[DieLucas!]

Originally posted by SeaRover
puhleaase -beat the piss out of that thing and you can come back

Why? So our major gathering of Luddites could rib the guy for trying to wheel a 2nd Gen Range Rover?

[JeepinCJ7]

Originally posted by SeaRover
i'm soooooo tired of seeing people lurk over here about their "wife's" car . . .

Then leave.....................?

You want a little cheese with that Whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iine????

I want something to bring diapers and Otter Pops home for the kids. Maybe I can even get one of those "mall rated" stickers for the side.

[SUE ROVR]

96 range rover:

annual maintaince: at least $3000 . . . in parts