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Old 01-08-2002, 11:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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moving front axle forward on D90

So Doug and anyone else who's considered it:
Give some thoughts on what is required to move the front axle forward. Where are the limits if one wanted to keep a portion of the front wing for the headlights and run 38-44" tires.
Save the suspension links for another time

IE How much would be ideal and what mods to the steering for the best benifit and least work. I think Doug said that he is moving the box forward to the point where the rear pair of bolts will be in the holes of the front bolt holes. Drill(and sleave?) two new front holes and move the crossmember
Has anyone considered swapping to a saginaw steering box at the same time?
Rumor has it that a scout II box is almost a straight swap.
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Old 01-08-2002, 12:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hey Tea-bag...You sound familiar to me! Shane?

Anyway, Looking at it the LEAST amount of work would be approx. 4-5"...Past that and your gonna' have to modify the front frame rails...They bend down past the spring mount...I'm thinking about chopping mine off, and running them straight, but I should be able to get away with keeping them stock by only going forward 4". And yes you got it right...Cut out the stock front x-member and move it forward...Sleeve the new box holes and presto. I'm a bit worried about alignment with the steering arm clearing my header tubes...But if worse came to worse then I'll have to run a two piece steering shaft.

Mounting a Saginaw is a major issue. There just isn't that much room up there for that box...Check out SG's site check it SG D90 Buggy ...There is a lot of good pics of the Saginaw mount that he built. BUT my feeling is that with hydro assist, the Rover box will hold up just fine. AssUme that you have a 50% load reduction (conservitive) then even with 42's your not stressing the box more than 35's...70% load reduction and your nearing stock loads. I'm one of the lucky ones however...Never had leak 1 on my box, but I've heard of sector shafts shearing with 35's...O'well, if it pop's then I'll go saginaw...

You should also be able to keep most of your front fenders. The max tire size you'll be able to run with the stock front configuration is a 38.5...Above that and I'm SURE you'll run into the front foot-well and full stuff/turn.
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Old 01-08-2002, 12:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's mine stock and cut:
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Old 01-08-2002, 12:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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And another: (BTW, newbie question, but how do you do multiple pics?)
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Old 01-08-2002, 01:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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"You sound familiar to me! Shane? "

Yes this is me.
So yes I've seen your rig

Have you considered using series fenders/wing since they have a different shaped inner wheel well? Perhaps allowing easier modification and less?
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Old 01-08-2002, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I knew it! Welcome man! It's a lot more fun over here!

I've never really studied the Series wings...But I'm going to remove the iner wells completely anyway...Or if they are necessary for support of the wing, then I'll loose most of it and/or support with tube. They're already 'trimmed' so I'm not too worried about it now!

--D
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Old 01-08-2002, 08:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Doug,

Take a look at the series wings. The best I have figured is to replace the metal mud shield on the series wings with an aluminum one that lines up right along with the bottom angle of the footwell. The main thing is you lose shock servicability. You definately do NOT need the inners for strength. I run mine on the series with only the front bolts and the slip on ones to the bulkhead and it has been fine. I would not walk on it though.

Ron
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